Tunisian Crochet Dishcloths
January 2020 QuickProjects
While dishcloths may not sound exciting, it is a great project to make something useful while learning this technique. Tunisian Crochet is thought to be a cross between knitting and crocheting with stitches familiar to both knitters and crocheters. It is also known as Afghan crochet since this technique creates a thicker and warmer fabric. This booklet will cover the basics of Tunisian crocheting and focus on one stitch, Tunisan Simple Stitch, to get a hang of. With this one stitch, there are two patterns offered and with the two skeins of yarn, you can make 2-4 dishcloths (depending on size desired).
Tunisisan Crochet Dishcloths Pattern
Skill Level: Easy (once practiced!) and Intermediate for pinwheel dishcloth
Supplies: 2 skein of Super Size Lily Sugar’n Cream cotton yarn, Size H Tunsian Crochet Hook (10″ + long), yarn sewing needle
Dimensions: N/A for simple dishcloth, ~10″ diameter for pinwheel dishcloth
Tunisian crochet work is never turned and each row is worked in two parts: the forward and return pass. The forward pass picks up the stitches/loops onto the hook (hence why the hooks need to be longer) and the return pass works them off the hook. With this technique, the back of the fabric will look different than the front and curling is common (but can be tamed with blocking or a border).
The foundation row is started the same way for any tunisian stitch.
ch a number of stitches
Forward pass: roll chain forward slightly so the back bumps can be seen. Insert hook in 2nd ch back bump, yarn over, and pull through (2 loops on hook). Repeat for each ch across.
Return pass: Yarn over, pull through first loop on hook (basically a ch 1, known as return ch), yarn over and pull through two loops on hook, repeat across until there is one stitch left on the hook. This stitch is now the 1st stitch of the next row.
Tunisian Simple Stitch (TSS)
After completing the foundation row, the rows are worked with the following forward and return passes for this stitch.
Forward pass: Skip first vertical bar, insert hook from right to left (if right handed, it will be left to right if you’re left handed) under the 2nd vertical bar (only one bar on hook when picked up), yarn over and pull up loop, keep loop on hook. Repeat across to last stitch. Work end stitch: insert hook under last bar and the bar that lies directly behind it, yarn over and pull loop.
Return pass: Yarn over, pull through first loop on hook (return ch), yarn over and pull through two loops on hook, repeat across until there is one stitch left on the hook.
The patterns on below use this stitch only. There are many different stitches and the differences between them are mainly how the loops are picked up on the forward pass. There are many books and online resources to learn more Tunisian crocheting stitches! The TSS is straightforward and very commonly used in Tunisian crocheting patterns, which is why this booklet is focused on that one.
Simple Dishcloth option 1: Solid TSS
Ch any number desired, this will be the width of your dishcloth.
Work foundation row then TSS for all rows after until desired length is reached.
Bind off: Instead of picking up the entire row of loops, the loops are dropped as you go to give a nice edge. Pick up the next st (same way as TSS in this case- vertical bars), yarn over and pull through both loops on hook, repeat across and fasten off.
Weave in ends. Add border if desired.
Simple Dishcloth option 2: Two Toned TSS (back is striped)
With color A, ch any number desired.
Foundation row: Work forward pass with color A. Before starting return pass, ch 1 (return ch) with color B and leave color A yarn at edge. Work return pass with color B.
Row 2: Work forward pass with color B, pick up color A with return ch, work return pass with color A.
Row 3: Work forward pass with color A, pick up color B with return ch, work return pass with color B.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until desired length is reached. Work bind off. Add border if desired
Set-up: With color A, make a magic ring. Ch 1, 6 sc in ring, slip stitch to first sc.
Ch 20. Starting with the 2nd ch from hook, pick up a loop from each ch and pick up one loop from the same sc as the start of the chain (21 loops on hook). Return: yo, pull through 2 loops to end (skipping return ch here and only skip when specified, return rows are worked as described on page 3 unless started otherwise).
Wedge pattern (same for all wedges, follow pattern on below)
- TSS 2 (3 loops on hook), return
- TSS 4 (5 loops on hook), return
- TSS 6 (7 loops on hook), return
- TSS 8 (9 loops on hook), return
- TSS 10 (11 loops on hook), return
- TSS 12 (13 loops on hook), return
- TSS 14 (15 loops on hook), return
- TSS 16 (17 loops on hook), return
- TSS 18 (19 loops on hook), return and change to opposite color on last st (pull new color through last two loops of return pass).
Change row SAME SC: TSS 18, insert hook into same sc as start of wedge and pull up a loop (20 loops on hook). Return: yo, pull through 2 loops to end.
Change row NEXT SC: TSS 18, insert hook into the next sc and pull up a loop (20 loops on hook). Return: yo, pull through 2 loops to end.
- After setting up, work wedge pattern with color A and change to color B at step 9. (wedge 1)
- Work change row SAME SC. (start of wedge 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12)
- Work wedge pattern, changing to color A at step 9.
- Work change row NEXT SC. (start of wedge 3, 5, 7, 9, 11)
- Work wedge pattern, changing to color B at step 9.
- Repeat 2-5 until the 12th wedge was has been started.
- Work wedge pattern steps 1-8 for 12th wedge.
- Work change row NEXT SC and fasten off with long tail.
- With a yarn needle, join wedge 1 to wedge 12 by sewing down edges to center. You can mimic the vertical bars joins by using a ladder stitch and picking up the vertical bars on both edges.
- Weave in all ends. Add border if desired.
This is a paid pattern originally designed for a Yarn Bits Shop subscription box.
You have permission to sell any item made from this pattern. However, you are not allowed to resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern or downloads in any printed or digital form (in full), or to claim the pattern as your own original design. If you want to sell or share a picture of your work from this pattern, please clearly credit the design to me: Lauren Samar of Yarn Bits Shop (with link to the website when applicable).
Occasionally a mistake or typo falls through, please report them via email (email@example.com) and the pattern will be updated accordingly.