Category: QuickProjects

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QP December 2020 – Bidirectional Ombre Hat

Bidirectional Ombre Hat

December 2020 QuickProjects

Designed by Lauren Samar for Yarn Bits Shop

Feel free to email for pattern help or questions: help@yarnbitsshop.com

A hat pattern has never been featured in one of our crocheting boxes before and that needed to be addressed! This pattern is made up of two main parts- the band and the body. The band is doubled up yarn to have extra warmth around your ears and the body features a stitch called linked half double crochet. It’s a modification to the standard half double crochet stitch to create a tighter fabric. After the body is completed, the hat top is bundled together to close it and accessories can be added if desired. Have fun making this cozy hat with a really fun yarn!

Bidirectional Ombre Hat Pattern

Skill Level: Beginners

Hook: Size I

Gauge: see each section 

Band

Gauge: 10 stitches x 8 rows = ~2.5 x 2 inches (not stretched)

Take BOTH ends of the yarn (outside and center) and work with them together for the band. The band is worked with double yarn but the body is not. 

Ch 11. If a wider band is desired, add more chains! 

Row 1: 

  • sc in 2nd ch from hook
  • sc in each ch across
  • turn 

Stitches count: 10 sc

Row 2: 

  • working in back loop only, ch 1
  • sc in each sp (back loop only) across
  • turn 

Stitches count: 10 sc in back loop only

Repeat Row 2 until length is circumference desired, ensuring an EVEN number of rows have been completed. When determining circumference, the band should stretch (comfortably) due to the ribbing. Here are some general guidelines:

  • Teen/Small Adult: 21-22”
  • Medium Adult: 22-23.5”
  • Large Adult: 23.5-25”

For best results with fit, measure the head circumference where the person would wear the hat and use that measurement to determine the length of the band. 

Finishing Band: 

Fold band (no twists) so the both ends are lined up. You’re going to work the corresponding spaces from both ends together so ensure that your latest row is to the front of you already turned in the direction that you’re going to work. 

Ch 1, sl st the next front/back spaces together across to the other end, fasten off. 

Special Stitches Directions

Linked Half Double Crochet (linked hdc)

  • Insert hook into second bar on side of hdc just completed, yo and pull through sp (2 loops on hook)
    • This replaces the yo completed in a normal hdc
  • Insert hook into next sp, yo and pull through sp (3 loops on hook)
  • yo and draw through all 3 loops on hook

Beginning Linked Half Double Crochet (beg linked hdc)

  • This is only used for the first hdc of the row. 
  • Insert hook into second chain of beg chain, yo and pull through sp (2 loops on hook)
  • Insert hook into next sp, yo and pull through sp (3 loops on hook)
  • yo and draw through all 3 loops on hook

Body

Gauge: 8 stitches x 6 rows = ~2 x 2 inches 

The stitch used is called the linked half double crochet, it’s a modification of the standard half double crochet stitch that creates tight fabrics as well as an unique look. The work is not turned at all, it is worked consistently in rounds until the height desired is reached. 

The first round is the set-up round for the rest of the body, transitioning the band into the body. 

Also- the body only uses a single strand, not doubled up like the band. 

Round 1: 

  • Sl st into any sp (row of the band) the edge of the band
  • ch 1, sc in same sp
  • 1 sc in each row around to beg (easier way to see think about this is 2 sc between each peak of the ribs of the bands)
  • sl st to first sc

Stitches count: Even number of sc but doesn’t really matter for the pattern- count if you’re concerned about dropping stitches, etc.. This stitches count is what every round should be going forward

Round 2: 

  • ch 3, 
  • beg linked hdc, 
  • linked hdc in each sp around to beg, 
  • sl st to top of first hdc

Stitches count: same as previous round. 

Repeat round 2 until hat reaches the total height needed to cover the head, approximately 8-10 inches from bottom of band. If desired, you can keep making it longer to make it more slouchy. Here are some general guidelines:

  • Teen/Small Adult: 8-8.5”
  • Medium Adult: 8.5-9”
  • Large Adult: 9-9.5”

Fasten off with a long tail. 

Finishing 

To finish the hat, the top needs to be closed securely and any desired accessories added. 

To close the top, use the long tail and weave in/out around the edge of the hat. Pull the end of the tail tight and that should pull together the edges to the center. Weave the ends around the center in several directions and fasten securely. 

Weave in all ends. 

If desired, a flower, circular, or similar accessory (many options available dependent on what you actually want!) may be added to the hat on the edge between the band and body. Alternatively, a pompom can be made and added to the top of the hat. 

Pattern Declaimer

This is a paid pattern originally designed for a Yarn Bits Shop subscription box. 

You have permission to sell any item made from this pattern. However, you are not allowed to resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern or downloads in any printed or digital form (in full), or to claim the pattern as your own original design. If you want to sell or share a picture of your work from this pattern, please clearly credit the design to me: Lauren Samar of Yarn Bits Shop (with link to the website when applicable). 

Occasionally a mistake or typo falls through, please report them via email (help@yarnbitsshop.com) and the pattern will be updated accordingly.

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QP Crocodile Stitch Pillow Cover

Crocodile Stitch Pillow Cover

March 2020 QuickProjects

Designed by Lauren Samar for Yarn Bits Shop

Feel free to email for pattern help or questions: help@yarnbitsshop.com

The Mandala yarn took the yarn world by surprise and became very popular quickly. Tweed Stripes is one of the latest variation and it is appealing to the eye as well as really fun to use. The look is created by two strands of different Mandala yarns twisted together and between multiple skeins, the color changes are not exactly the same. With this yarn, the crocodile stitch is a great way to feature the pretty color changes and create a throw pillow that adds a pop of color wherever it’s placed without being overwhelming. This stitch also can be used to create different fun projects with the 3D scales!

Crocodile Stitch Pillow Cover Pattern

Supplies: 1 skein of Lion Brand Mandala Tweed Stripes, complementary yarn of choice (amount as needed dependent on size of pillow) OR fabric for back of cover (see sizing notes and finishing notes), size G Hook, yarn needle,

Skill:  Intermediate

Gauge:  14 ch to start by first 5 rows of pattern = 3×3 inches

Dimensions: See sizing notes

Sizing Notes

With only one skein (Note: to be fully transparent- box subscribers only got one skein due to weight of yarn and shipping costs) of Mandala Tweed Stripes and working with the crocodile stitch (which eats up a lot of yarn), the sizing of the pillow is important to decide before proceeding. Find the pillow you want to cover and go from there.

With the gauge given and using the Curved Crocodile Stitch (which is two less DC stitches per scale compared to the Flat Crocodile Stitch), one skein with a little leftovers yeilds one side of a cover measuring at 14 by 14 inches (56 chains when starting). With the Flat Crocodile Stitch, one skein yeilds  one side measuring 12 by 12 inches (50 chains when starting).

If the pillow is rectangular, use square inches to determine if there is enough yarn. For example, if the pillow size is 12 by 16″ that is 192 square inches. The 14 by 14″ example from above is 196 square inches so there should be enough yarn using the Curved Crocodile Stitch for 12 by 16″ rectangular pillow.

Crocodile Stitch Overview:

This stitch is worked in two parts. The first part is a set-up row of 2-dc clusters and the second part is crocheting down one post and up the other post of every other 2-dc clusters, creating a “scale”. Skipping every other cluster is what creates the tension between scales and allows them to lay flat. After the foundation rows, the pattern is repeated over 2 rows containing 4 parts to create the scales offsets (points between the row below’s scales). The cover is turned side to side as working down then up the posts.

Special Stitches:

2-DC Cluster: 2 dc in same sp {Note: cluster in this patter refers to this stitch}

Curved Crocodile Stitch: Working over two dc stitches next to each other, (4 dc then 1 tr down first post (first dc of cluster)), ch 1, (1 tr then 4 dc up next post (second dc of cluster))

Flat Crocodile Stitch: Working over two dc stitches next to each other, (5 dc then 1 tr down first post (first dc of cluster)), ch 1, (1 tr then 5 dc up next post (second dc of cluster))

Rows Pattern:

Cluster Row: starting in sp between posts of previous row clusters, ch 3, dc in same sp, *ch 2, 2 dc in sp between posts in next cluster**, repeat from * to ** across to end. {Note: when working skipped clusters from previous scale row, feel free to pick up the “corner” between the scales in the new cluster row to secure the corners. However, this is NOT necessary.}

Edge Scales Row: sl st around outermost post, ch 3, {3 dc (or 4 dc for flat crocodile stitch) and 1 tr around post- working downwards towards top of previous row, ch 1, 1 tr then 4 dc (or 5 for flat crocodile stitch) around second post of cluster- working upwards towards top of current row} , *sk next dc cluster, crocodile stitch around next cluster**, repeat from * to ** across to second last cluster, sk second last cluster, {4 dc (or 5 for flat crocodile stitch) then 1 tr down first post, ch 1, 1 tr then 3 dc (or 4 for flat crocodile stitch) up next post, ch 3 and sl st around top of post}

Inside Edge Scales Row: sk first dc cluster, *crocodile stitch around next cluster, sk next dc cluster**, repeat from * to ** across to second last cluster, crocodile stitch around cluster, sl st to center of last cluster

To start:

Ch multiple of 6 + 2. {56 ch for a 14″ long side, 50 ch for a 12″ long side)

Foundation:

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each sp across, turn. [multiple of 6 + 1 sc]

Row 2: ch 3, dc in same sp, *sk 2 sp, 2 dc in same sp, ch 2**, repeat from * to ** to last sp, 2 dc in last sp, turn. [odd number of 2-dc sets]

Pattern:

Row 2, part 2: work Edge Scales Row

Row 3, part 1: work Cluster Row

Row 3, part 2: work Inside Edge Scales Row

Row 4, part 1: work Cluster Row

Row 4, part 2: work Edge Scales Row

Repeat rows 3-4 until desired height is achieved (ending on either Scales row).

Finishing row: ch 1, *sc in sp between posts of cluster, 2 sc in ch 2 sp between clusters**, repeat from * to **, sc in between posts of last cluster. [Same number of sc as row 1] {Note: This row is to help crochet or sew edges together more easily}

Finishing Pillow Cover

Dependent on size of the cover, one skein most likely will cover only one side of the pillow. From here you have a few options to finish:

If Crocodile Stitch in same color is desired on the other side, obtain another skein of the same yarn and create another cover of the same size.  Email Happy Hook if you want to inquire about buying more of the yarn through us.

If solid crochet backing is desired on the other side, use yarn of choice and crochet a cover of the same size. sc or hdc stitches are recommanded to create a tighter fabric for the backing.

If fabric is available and desired (and know how to sew fabric by hand nicely), cut a cover of slightly larger than front cover.

Once both sides are finished, crochet or sew edges together working along the outer post of the clusters on the sides. (instead of the scales edges). If crocheting edges are desired, it is recommended to crochet the top and bottom edges together and sew the side edges due to the edge scales. Stuff pillow insert in before sewing 4th edge. 

Pattern Declaimer

This is a paid pattern originally designed for a Yarn Bits Shop subscription box. 

You have permission to sell any item made from this pattern. However, you are not allowed to resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern or downloads in any printed or digital form (in full), or to claim the pattern as your own original design. If you want to sell or share a picture of your work from this pattern, please clearly credit the design to me: Lauren Samar of Yarn Bits Shop (with link to the website when applicable). 

Occasionally a mistake or typo falls through, please report them via email (help@yarnbitsshop.com) and the pattern will be updated accordingly.

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QP August 2020 – Overlay Crochet Coasters or Potholder

Overlay Crochet Coasters or Potholder

August 2020 QuickProjects

Easy-Intermediate

Intermediate

Advanced

Designed by Lauren Samar for Yarn Bits Shop

Feel free to email for pattern help or questions: help@yarnbitsshop.com

Overlay crocheting is a technique of creating a fabric of single crochet stitches in the back loop only and working 

additional stitches over the fabric in the front loop of below rows to create different designs. This is a really fun way to create more three dimensional designs of all kinds. There are THREE patterns provided in this booklet- the easiest features columns only. The intermediate features diamonds and the advanced features a flower design. All three circle designs end up at the same size and stitches count in the circumference. This allows for the square to be the same (and hence making potholders easier too!). While there are three patterns, every design you make can be completely different due to the color choices!

Overlay Crochet Coasters or Potholder Pattern

Supplies: One skein of Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton (This is the “Core Color”), one pack of Lion Brand cotton BonBon, size G crochet hook, darning needle for invisible joins and weaving in ends.

Skill: Level noted with each pattern

Gauge: Does not matter here.

Dimensions:  5 by 5 squares; potholders are 2 squares by 2 squares plus border

READ THIS BEFORE STARTING

Overlay Crochet Notes 

~ All stitches are worked in the BACK LOOP ONLY unless noted otherwise. 

~ Every round is worked with the same side facing you.

~ Every round is closed with the invisible join- which means the color is fastened off on the last stitch and is NOT slip stitched to the first stitch. See stitch guide for steps of invisible join.

Special Stitches Guide

The following stitches are used in the patterns:

Invisible Join: After making the last stitch of round, cut yarn (leaving a 4 inch or so tail) and pull through top of last stitch made. Using a needle, pull yarn tail from front to back through the 2 top loops of the 2nd stitch of the round. Then, pull tail from top to bottom through the center of the top 2 loops of the last stitch of the round. This creates a “false” stitch that you can crochet into in the following rounds.

Front Post Double Crochet (fp dc): yo, pick up COLUMN by inserting from right to left and pulling the column towards you, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook two times

Front Post Triple Crochet (fp tr): yo twice, pick up COLUMN by inserting from right to left and pulling the column towards you, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook three times

Special Stitches Guide Continued

Front Post Triple Crochet 2 Together (fp tr2tog): yo twice, pick up FIRST COLUMN, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook TWO times (2 lps remaining), yo twice, pick up SECOND COLUMN, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook TWO times (3 lps remaining), yo and pull through all lps on hook

Front Post Double Crochet 3 Together (fp tr3tog): yo, pick up FIRST COLUMN, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook (2 lps remaining), yo, pick up SECOND COLUMN, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook (3 lps remaining), yo, pick up THIRD COLUMN, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook (4 lps remaining),yo and pull through all lps on hook

Front Post Triple Crochet 3 Together (fp tr3tog): yo twice, pick up FIRST COLUMN, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook TWO times (2 lps remaining), yo twice, pick up SECOND COLUMN, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook TWO times (3 lps remaining), yo twice, pick up THIRD COLUMN, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook TWO times (4 lps remaining),yo and pull through all lps on hook

Double-Triple-Double Crochet 3 Together (dc-tr-dc3tog): yo, pick up FIRST COLUMN, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook (2 lps remaining), yo twice, pick up SECOND COLUMN, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook TWO times (3 lps remaining), yo twice, pick up THIRD COLUMN, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook (4 lps remaining),yo and pull through all lps on hook

Overlay Columns (Easy-Intermediate) 

Colors Needed: 2 BonBon colors and Core Color

With Core Color, Make adjustable ring

Round 1: ch 1, 11 sc in ring, fasten off and complete invisible join. [12 sc]

Round 2: With Core Color,  sl st into any sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, 2 sc in each sp around, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [24 sc]

Round 3: With Color A (color to be used for one set of columns), sl st into first sp of any 2-sc group, ch 1, *dc into corresponding front loop in Round 1**, sc in next 4, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next 3, fasten off. Work invisible join with 1st dc sp. [30 sts: 24 sc, 6 dc]

Round 4: With Color B (color for second set of columns), sl st into any dc sp, ch 1, sc in next 2, *tr into corresponding front loop in Round 1 (between columns from last round)**, sc in next 5, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next 2, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [36 sts: 30 sc, 6 tr]

Round 5: With Color A, sl st into any tr sp, ch 1, sc in next 2, *fp dc around corresponding column from Round 3, sk next**, sc in next 5, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next 2, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [36 sts: 30 sc, 6 fp dc]

Round 6: With Color B, sl st into any dc sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, *sc in next 2, fp dc around corresponding column from Round 4, sk next**, sc in next 2, 2 sc in next, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next 2, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [42 sts: 36 sc, 6 fp dc]

Round 7: With Color A, sl st into any dr sp, ch 1, sc in next 3, *fp dc around corresponding column from Round 5**, sc in next 7, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next 3, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [48 sts: 42 sc, 6 fp dc]

Overlay Columns Continued

Round 8: With Color B, sl st into any dr sp, ch 1, sc in next 4, *fp dc around corresponding column from Round 6**, sc in next 8, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next 3, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [54 sts: 48 sc, 6 fp dc]

Round 9: With Color A, sl st into any dc sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, *sc in next 4, fp dc around corresponding column from Round 7, sk next**, sc in next 4, 2 sc in next, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next 2, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [66 sts: 60 sc, 6 fp dc]

Round 10: With Color B, sl st into any dr sp, ch 1, sc in next 5, *fp dc around corresponding column from Round 8**, sc in next 11, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next 5, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [72 sts: 66 sc, 6 fp dc]

Round 11: With Color A, sl st into any dr sp, ch 1, sc in next 5, *fp dc around corresponding column from Round 9, sk next sp**, sc in next 11, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next 5, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [72 sts: 66 sc, 6 fp dc]

See Circle-to-Square Steps to square it out. Weave in all ends.

Overlay Diamonds (Intermediate)

Colors Needed: 2 BonBon colors and Core Color

With Core Color, Make adjustable ring

Round 1: ch 1, 11 sc in ring, fasten off and complete invisible join. [12 sc]

Round 2: With Core Color,  sl st into any sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, 2 sc in each sp around, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [24 sc]

Round 3: With Color A (color to be used for diamonds), sl st into first sp of any 2-sc group, ch 1, *dc into corresponding front loop in Round 1**, sc in next 4, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next 3, fasten off. Work invisible join with 1st dc sp. [30 sts: 24 sc, 6 dc]

Round 4: With Color B (color for columns), sl st into any dc sp, ch 1, sc in next 2, *tr into corresponding front loop in Round 1 (between columns from last round)**, sc in next 5, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next 2, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [36 sts: 30 sc, 6 tr]

Round 5: With Color A, sl st into any tr sp, ch 1, sc in next, *dc into front loop of column (to left) from Round 3, sc in next, fp dc around corresponding column from Round 3, sk next sp, sc in next, dc into front loop of same sp (to right) BEHIND fp dc just created (3 prongs created from one column)**, sc in next 3, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [48 sts: 30 sc, 18 dc]

Round 6: With Color B, sl st into first column of any 3-prong combination, ch 1, sc in next 5, *fp dc around corresponding column from Round 5, sk next sp**, sc in next 7, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [48 sts: 42 sc, 6 dc]

Overlay Diamonds Continued

Round 7: With Color A, sl st into any dc, ch 1, sc in next, *fp dc around right column of combo, sc in next 2, fp dc around center column, sk next, sc in next 2, fp dc around left column of combo, sc in next 3, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [60 sts: 42 sc, 18 dc]

Round 8: With Color B, sl st in to right dc of any dc combo, ch 1, sc in next 7, *fp dc around corresponding column from Round 6, sk next sp**, sc in next 9, repeat from * ending last rep with **, sc in next, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [60 sts: 54 sc, 6 dc]

Round 9: With Color A, sl st into any dc, ch 1, sc in next 3, *fp dc around right leg of combo, sc in next, fp dc around center column, sk next, sc in next, fp dc around right column of combo**, sc in next 7, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next 3, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [72 sts: 54 sc, 18 dc]

Round 10: With Color B, sl st in to right dc of any dc combo, ch 1, sc in next 7, *fp dc around corresponding column from Round 6, sk next sp**, sc in next 11, repeat from * ending last rep with **, sc in next 3, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [72 sts: 66 sc, 6 dc]

Round 11: With Color A, sl st into any dc, ch 1, sc in next 5, *fp dc3tog across each column from Round 9, sk next**, sc in next 11, repeat from * ending last rep with **, sc in next 5, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [72 sts: 66 sc, 6 dc3tog]

See Circle-to-Square Steps to square it out. Weave in all ends.

Overlay Flower (Advanced)

Colors Needed: 2 BonBon colors and Core Color

With Core Color, Make adjustable ring

Round 1: ch 1 (count as sc here and throughout), 11 sc in ring, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [12 sc]

Round 2: With Core Color,  sl st into any sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, 2 sc in each sp around, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [24 sc]

Round 3: With Color A (color to be used for outlining flower petals), sl st into any first sc of any 2-sc group, ch 1, sc in next sp, *dc into front loop of corresponding Round 1 sp, sc in next 2 sp, dc into same front loop (creating a V)**, sc in next 2 sp, repeat from * ending last rep at **, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [36 sts: 12 dc forming 6 V’s, 24 sc]

Round 4: With Color B (color for columns), sl st into any “left leg” dc sp, ch 1, sc in next sp, *tr into corresponding front loop in Round 1 (between V’s from previous round)**, sc in next 6 sp, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next 4 sp, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [42 sts: 6 tr, 36 sc]

Round 5: With Color C (color for center of petals), sl st into any of the tr sp, ch 1, sc in next 3 sp, *dc-tr-dc3tog with dc in corresponding Round 3 front loops (2 sp between V) and tr in corresponding Round 2 front loop (between V) {Note: see instructions for this stitch in stitches guide}**, sc in next 7, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next 4 sp, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [48 sts: 6 dc-tr-dc3tog, 42 sc]

Round 6: With Color A, sl st into any 3tog sp, ch 1, sc in next, *fp tr around corresponding left leg from Round 3, sc in next 5, fp tr around corresponding right leg**, sc in next 3, repeat from *ending last rep at **, sc in next sp, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [60 sts: 12 fp tr, 48 sc]

 

Overlay Flower Continued

Round 7: With Color B, sl st into any “left leg” tr sp, ch 1, sc in next 4, *fp tr around corresponding column from Round 4**, sc in next 10, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next 5, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [66 sts: 6 fp tr, 60 sc]

Round 8: With Color C, sl st into any tr sp, ch 1, sc in next 4 sp, *fp tr3tog around each of the columns from the dc-tr-dc3tog in Round 5 {Note: see instructions for this stitch in stitches guide}, sk next st (center of flower st)**, sc in next 10, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next 5, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [66 sts: 6 fp tr3tog, 60 sc]

Round 9: With Color A, sl st into any sp before a tr3tog sp, ch 1, fp tr2tog around each of the legs from Round 6 (outline of flower columns), sk next sp**, sc in next 10, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next 9, fasten off. Work invisible join into tr2tog st. [66 sts: 6 fp tr2tog, 60 sc]

Round 10: With Color B, sl st into any tr2tog sp, ch 1, sc in next 5, *fp tr around corresponding column from Round 7**, sc in next 11, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next 5, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [72 sts: 6 fp tr, 66 sc]

Round 11: With Color A, sl st into any tr sp, sc in next 5, *fp dc around BOTH columns from Round 9, sk next sp**, sc in next 11, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next 5, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [72 sts: 6 fp dc, 66 sc]

See Circle-to-Square Steps to square it out. Weave in all ends.

 

Overlay Columns:

Easy-Intermediate due to shaping of circle and every round being different stitch counts.

Overlay Diamonds:

Intermediate due to shaping of circle and several special stitches

Overlay Flower:

Advanced due to shaping of circle and usage of multiple special stitches

Circle-To-Square Steps

For the next 2 rounds, BOTH front and back loops are picked up with each st. 

Round 12: Before starting this round, select which stitch would host a corner of your square (mainly for alignment of the circle into square) and count 6 spaces AFTER that corner sp- this is where you’ll start this round. With Core Color, sl st into 6th sp after desired corner sp, ch 1, sc in next 6 sp, *hdc in next 2, dc in next 2, tr in next, (tr, ch 2, tr) in next, tr in next, dc in next 2, hdc in next 2**, sc in next 7, repeat from * ending last rep at **, fasten off (for consistency purposes). Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [76 sts and 4 ch-2 sp; 19/side]

Round 13: With Core Color, sl st into sp before any corner, ch 1, *(2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc) in ch-2 sp**, sc in each sp across to corner, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in each sp to 2nd last sp of side, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [92 sts and 4 ch-2 sp; 23/side]

Finishing Designs

If Coasters are desired, pattern is done as is- either a circle or squared out. Optionally, to make it non-slip, sew non-slip fabric (for example: Tenura non slip fabric) to center of back.

For Potholder, make 8 squares of desired designs. After all 8 are made, sew 4 squares together with all designs facing one direction to make a larger square (2 x 2). After the two large squares are completed, line up the two larger squares with back of designs facing each other (right side facing out of either side) and crochet together around with Core Color.

Pattern Declaimer

This is a paid pattern originally designed for a Yarn Bits Shop subscription box. 

You have permission to sell any item made from this pattern. However, you are not allowed to resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern or downloads in any printed or digital form (in full), or to claim the pattern as your own original design. If you want to sell or share a picture of your work from this pattern, please clearly credit the design to me: Lauren Samar of Yarn Bits Shop (with link to the website when applicable). 

Occasionally a mistake or typo falls through, please report them via email (help@yarnbitsshop.com) and the pattern will be updated accordingly.