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QP September 2020 – Flower and Leaves Fall Garland

Flower and Leaves Fall Garland

September 2020 QuickProjects
From Left to Right: 3D Flower, 2D Flower (small), 3D Flower (Large), Basic Leaf, Maple Leaf, Oak Leaf

Designed by Lauren Samar for Yarn Bits Shop

Feel free to email for pattern help or questions: help@yarnbitsshop.com

The feature pattern for this month is FALL themed and straightforward. Patterns are on the easier side this month but multiple pieces need to be made. To create your garland: choose which motifs you would like to make, make an assortment as desired, create bundles if desired, then connect them with a long chain to create a garland. Hang around a window or a doorway or along a wall to celebrate fall! Alternatively, a foam core can be purchased and the motifs can be attached to the foam core. With a variated colored yarn and a solid color, all the motifs will look a little different!

Flower and Leaves Fall Garland Pattern

Supplies: One skein of Red Heart Roll with It Malange, one skein of Red Heart Soft, size H crochet hook, darning needle for weaving in ends. If wreath is desired, a foam core wreath is needed.

Skill: Level noted with each pattern

Gauge: Does not matter here.

Dimensions:  Does not matter here.

Basic Leaf

Skill Level: Easy

With color of choice, ch 9.

Round 1: sc in 2nd sp from hook, 2 dc in next sp, hdc in next 3, sc in next 2, 3 sc in last sp (wraps to other side), continue on other side of beg ch (“bottom” of ch string) and sc in next 2, hdc in next 3, 2 dc in next, sc in last sp, ch 1, sl st to first sc of round. {19 total stitches}

Round 2: ch 1, 2 sc in same sp, (2 dc in next sp) 3 times, hdc in next 3 sp, sc in next 2 sp, (sc, ch 2, sc) in point sp, sc in next 2 sp, hdc in next 3 sp, (2 hdc in next sp) 3 times, 2 sc in next sp, sc in ch-2 sp, sl st to first sc of round. {29 total stitches}

Stem: ch 6 (or change to adjust length of stem), sc in 2nd sp from hook, sc in each sp across to leaf/base of stem, sl st into same starting sp, fasten off. Weave in ends.

Sunflower-Inspired 2D Flower SMALL

Skill Level: Easy-Intermediate

Part 1– make the flat spiral base and petals

With color A, make magic ring.

Round 1: ch 2, 10 hdc in ring. Instead of making circle, create spiral by crocheting 2 hdc into the beg ch 2 sp, place stitch marker here if desired {12 hdc, start of spiral}

Round 2: working in back loop only, 2 hdc in each sp around to beg of round {24 hdc}

Round 3: working in back loop only, *sc in next sp, ch 8**, repeat from * to ** around to last sp, sl st to first sc, fasten off. {24 loops}

Part 2– make center spiral

With color B, sl st into ring at center next to beg ch 2 from round 1.

Spiral Round 1: ch 2, hdc in same sp in ring, hdc in first front loop of spiral, hdc in next 11 front loop sp.

Spiral Round 2: sc in next 24 front loop sp, sl st into back loop of next sp available, fasten off.

Weave in ends. If using for garland, make 2 and sew together to hide backs or sew leaves to back.

Sunflower-Inspired 2D Flower LARGE

Skill Level: Easy-Intermediate

Part 1– make the flat spiral base and petals

With color A, make magic ring.

Round 1-2: Same as SMALL version.

Round 3: working in back loop only, *1 hdc in next sp, 2 hdc in next sp**, repeat from * to ** around {36 hdc}

Round 4: working in back loop only, *sc in next sp, ch 10**, repeat from * to ** around to last sp, sl st to first sc, fasten off. {36 loops}

Part 2– make center spiral

With color B, sl st into ring at center next to beg ch 2 from round 1.

Spiral Round 1: ch 3, dc in same sp in ring, dc in first front loop of spiral, dc in next 11 front loop sp.

Spiral Round 2: hdc in next 24 front loop sp

Spiral Round 3: sc in next 36 front loop sp, sl st into back loop of next sp available, fasten off.

Weave in ends. If using for garland, make 2 and sew together to hide backs or sew leaves to back

Chrysanthemum-Inspired 3D Flower

Skill Level: Intermediate

This can be done with one color or two colors. If using two, Color A will be used only in row 1 as the “stem” of the flower.

With color A, create a long tail and ch 26

Row 1: hdc in 3rd sp from hook, hdc in each sp across, fasten off color A OR turn continue if using one color {24 hdc}

Row 2: *sl st in sp, ch 10, sl st in same sp**, repeat from * to ** across, creating 24 loops, fasten off. {24 loops}

With the long tail from the beg of the pattern, the solid row 1 will be rolled up and sewed (with the tail) as it is rolled up. Start with the end that has the long tail and continuously push the needle through the entire roll to the other side to secure it. Once the whole row has been rolled up, fasten off securely and weave in ends.

Maple Leaf

Skill Level: Intermediate

Two colors can be used here with one color for Round 1 and the other for round 2-3. Alternatively, the entire pattern can be done with one color

With color of choice, make magic ring.

Round 1: ch 1, all in the ring: 2 sc, 2 hdc, 2 dc, 3 tr, 2 dc, 2 hdc, 1 sc, sl st to first sc of round. {14 stitches}

Round 2: ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in next, (2 sc in next) twice, (2 hdc in next) twice, 2 dc in next, 3 tr in next, 2 dc in next, (2 hdc in next) twice, (2 sc in next) twice, sc in next, sl st to beg sc. {26 stitches}

Round 3: ch 1, sl st into same sp, sc in next, 2 hdc in next, (dc, ch 3, sl st into first ch, dc) in next, 2 hdc in next, (sc, sl st) in next, (sc, hdc) in next, 2 dc in next, (tr, ch 3, sl st into first ch, tr) in next, 2 dc in next, (hdc, sc, sl st) in next, (sc, hdc) in next, 2 dc in next, (2 tr, ch 3, sl st into first ch, 2 tr) in next, 2 dc in next, (hdc, sc, sl st) in next, (sc, hdc) in next, 2 dc in next, (tr, ch 3, sl st to first ch, tr) in next, 2 dc in next, (hdc, sc, sl st) in next, sc in next, 2 hdc in next, (dc, ch 3, sl st into first ch, dc) in next, 2 hdc in next, sc in next, sl st into center sp (same sp as first sl st).

Stem: ch 6 (or adjust for desired stem length), sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each sp across to base/leaf, sl st into same sp as base.

Oak Leaf

Skill Level: Intermediate

Two colors can be used here with one color for Round 1 and the other for round 2-3. Alternatively, the entire pattern can be done with one color.

With color of choice, Ch 13.

Round 1: sc in 2nd sp from hook, sc in each sp across to last sp, 4 sc in last sp (wrapping to other side), sc in each sp across on “bottom” of ch, ch 1, sl st to first sc of round. {26 total stitches}

Round 2: ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in next 4, hdc in next 5 sp, dc in next 2 sp, 2 dc in each of next 4 sp, dc in next 2 sp, hdc in next 5 sp, sc in next 5 sp, 2 sc in ch-1 sp, sl st to first sc of round. {34 total stitches}

Round 3: ch 1, sc in same sp, 2 dc in next, sc in next, sl st into next, (sc, hdc) in next sp, 2 tr in next, (hdc, sc) in next, sl st into next, (sc, dc) in next, 3 tr in next, (dc, sc) in next, sc in next 4 sp, 2 sc in next 3 sp, sc in next 4 sp, (sc, dc) in next, 3 tr in next, (dc, sc) in next, sl st into next sp, (sc, hdc) in next, 2 tr in next, (hdc, sc) in next, sl st into next sp, sc in next, 2 dc in next, sc in next, sc in next 2 sp, sl st to first sc. {54 total stitches}

Stem: turn, sl st into next sp, ch 6 (or adjust for length of stem), sc in 2nd sp from hook, sc in each ch towards base of chains/leaf, sl st into next sp, fasten off.

Finishing

After making an assortment of leaves and flowers (as many as you desire but leaving some of the Soft yarn to finish garland), make sure all ends are woven in. If desired, bundles of motifs can be created (leaf sewed onto flower, etc) prior to attaching all to garland.

The garland is created by chaining and slip stitching into the stems or a loop to pick up flowers/leaves as you go.

For example:

Ch 20, sl st into ch from one loop of a 2D flower, ch 20, sl st into the end of the stem of a leaf, ch 20, sl st into the base of the 3D flower,…. and so forth.

Alternatively… If a garland is not desired, a wreath can be made with the motifs! With a foam core, wrap core with yarn in prefered method. Sew on motifs desired.

Pattern Declaimer

This is a paid pattern originally designed for a Yarn Bits Shop subscription box. 

You have permission to sell any item made from this pattern. However, you are not allowed to resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern or downloads in any printed or digital form (in full), or to claim the pattern as your own original design. If you want to sell or share a picture of your work from this pattern, please clearly credit the design to me: Lauren Samar of Yarn Bits Shop (with link to the website when applicable). 

Occasionally a mistake or typo falls through, please report them via email (help@yarnbitsshop.com) and the pattern will be updated accordingly.

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QP Ripple Project Bag

Ripple Project Bag

February 2020 QuickProjects

Designed by Lauren Samar for Yarn Bits Shop

Feel free to email for pattern help or questions: help@yarnbitsshop.com

The Caron x Patone collaboration resulted in beautifully colored yarn combinations  with 5 high quality hanks braided up. The main downside of these braids is the small volume of yarn in a single braid. But with spectacular color combinations already provided, fun projects can certainly be created with these braids. This project in particular focuses on ripples- something not seen as often outside of crochet blankets- as it’s an interesting way to feature this yarn. The project bag is a cute way to carry some yarn around but it can also be repurposed as a clutch for a night out!

Ripple Project Bag Pattern

Supplies: 2  braids of Caron x Patone, size G Hook, yarn needle, (optional) button

Skill:  Easy

Gauge:  One ripple width (valley to valley) = ~ 1.75″; 8 rows of ripples = ~ 2″

Dimensions: ~6.5″ x 8″ flat (not including flap).

See bottom of page 6 for different size options.

Unbraiding the yarn

The Caron x Patone braids come with 5 hanks looped into the one above it and it isn’t obvious how to get the yarn balled up.

  • Take the tag out.
  • At the top and bottom of the braid, there is a piece of yarn  going in the opposite direction of most of the strands. Snip that off.
  • Pull the top/bottom hank out of the next hank towards the center. Repeat until all colors are separated.
  • Each hank is twisted up into smaller loops for the braid, untwist the hank until the hank is one larger loop (all will be the same size). There will be a spot on the loop where the hank is tied.
  • Untie the beg/end of the skein and place over a corner (back of chair, over your knee, etc) and wind up into a ball. Repeat for all colors. 
  • Get crocheting!

Special stitches:

sc3tog = single crochet 3 together.

  • Insert hook in first sp, yo and pull through sp (2 loops on hook)
  • Insert hook in second sp, yo and pull through sp (3 loops on hook)
  • Insert hook in 3rd sp, yo and pull through sp (4 loops on hook)
  • Yo and pull through all loops on hook (1 loop on hook)

sc2tog = sc 2 together: Steps 1 and 2 then 4 of above.

Color options:

With the alternating directions of the rounds, it is recommanded to keep one color over 2 or multiple of 2 rows due to how the sc3tog looks on the wrong side. However, if you want to do single rows, test out the color combinations and have fun!

There are SO many options with color combinatons here. You can do a simple order of 2 rows of each color or you can do a bit more complicated combination. Take some time to think about what you would like before starting! Also see bottom of page 6 for size variation guide.

Base:

With color A, Ch 36

Round 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. In the last ch, sc 2 more in same sp (one for the center and one for the other side). Sc in each ch across on the other side to where the round started. sc 2 in beg ch (3 sc in beg and end of row). sl st to first sc. Do not turn. (72 sc total)

Round 2: ch 1, sc in same sp (first sc off to the end sc), *hdc in next, dc in next, tr in next 2 sp, dc in next, hdc in next, sc in next, sl st in next, sc in next**, repeat from * to ** 6 more times , repeat * to ** skipping the last sc, sl st to beg sc. Fasten off (if desired color change happens here). (8 peaks, 4 on each side).

Round 3: With color B (if desired) and crochet in same direction as previous round, sl st to sp between 2 tr on any peak. ch 1, (sc, hdc, sc) in same sp, *sc in next 3, sc3tog with next 3 sp, sc in next 3, (sc, hdc, sc) in sp between 2 tr**, repeat from * to ** around, sl st to beg sc, turn.

Round 4: Crocheting in opposite direction as previous round, ch 1, sc in next 2 sp, *sc3tog, sc in next 3 sp, (sc, hdc, sc) in center of peak sp, sc in next 3 sp**, repeat from * to ** around to beg, sl st to beg ch. Fasten off if maintaining 2 rows of each color pattern. 

Body:

For the body, remember the following: Each peak will have (sc, hdc, sc) at the center. Each side of the peak will have 3 sc. Each valley will be sc3tog. Fasten off one color and start new color with sl st for all color changes.

Round 5: Sl st to center of peak sp, ch 1, (sc, hdc, sc) in same sp, *sc in next 3, sc3tog with next 3 sp, sc in next 3, (sc, hdc, sc) in center of peak sp**, repeat from * to ** around, sl st to beg sc. turn.

Round 6: Repeat round 4.

Repeat rounds 5 and 6 until 30 rounds are completed or desired length is achieved.

Finishing:

There are two main options for the opening of the project bag. A flap can be created or the opening can be even all around and be closed with a drawstring woven in around towards the opening.

Drawstring option:

Crochet the desired length of the body. Cut a length of 1 or more strands of the yarn. Weave strands around bag (I recommend using the peak spaces a couple rows down. Knot ends of strand(s) and test pulling strands to close bag.

Flap option:

With color of choice and back of bag facing you, sl st to sp next to center of valley on one end. 

Row 1: ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in next 3 sp, *(sc, hdc, sc) in center of peak sp, sc in next 3 sp, sc3tog, sc in next 3 sp**, repeat from * to ** along ONE side of the bag (4 peaks), (sc, hdc, sc) in 4th peak, sc in next 4 sp, turn.

Row 2: ch 1, sc2tog over first and second sp, sc in next 3 sp, *(sc, hdc, sc) in center of peak sp, sc in next 3 sp, sc3tog, sc in next 3 sp**, repeat from * to ** to last peak, sc in next 3 sp on last side, sc2tog over last 2 sp, turn.

Repeat row 2 for desired length of flap, maintaining color combination desired.

If desired:

Create a simple rectangle and sew it on for a wrist/short strap on the back of the bag or over the top. Add a button if desired to keep flap closed.

Size variation: 

For a wider bag, ch a multiple of 9 for the beg ch. For every additional multiple, there will be 2 additional peaks (one on either side of the bag).

Pattern Declaimer

This is a paid pattern originally designed for a Yarn Bits Shop subscription box. 

You have permission to sell any item made from this pattern. However, you are not allowed to resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern or downloads in any printed or digital form (in full), or to claim the pattern as your own original design. If you want to sell or share a picture of your work from this pattern, please clearly credit the design to me: Lauren Samar of Yarn Bits Shop (with link to the website when applicable). 

Occasionally a mistake or typo falls through, please report them via email (help@yarnbitsshop.com) and the pattern will be updated accordingly.

Posted on

QP October 2020 – Dual Weight Scarves 2

Dual Weight Scarves - Lacy Stripes Scarf

October 2020 QuickProjects

Designed by Lauren Samar for Yarn Bits Shop

Feel free to email for pattern help or questions: help@yarnbitsshop.com

In this pattern, there are two scarf options- just in time for the cooler weather! The reversible one is more intermediate and the lacy stripes one is more traditional stripes. Both patterns can be either a straight scarf or an infinity scarf, dependent on preference. What makes this pattern slightly different is that there’s two different yarn weights being worked with. The Hook Nook Yummy yarn is a bit fluffier and thicker. The Hook Hook Small Stuff is thinner and more sleek. The hook is the same size throughout both patterns- what changes is the stitches corresponding to each yarn.

Lacy Stripes Scarf

Skill Level: Beginners

Hook: Size J

Gauge: N/A 

YARN 1 = Yummy Yarns, YARN 2 = Small Stuff

Getting Started

With YARN 2, ch 34. {Or multiples of 3 plus 3}

 

Foundation Row

  • hdc in 3rd ch from hook
  • hdc in each sp across
  • Turn

Stitches Count: 31 hdc, beg ch does not count as hdc

 

Row 2

  • Continuing with Yarn 2
  • ch 2
  • hdc in same sp
  • *ch 3, sk next 2 sp, hdc in next
  • repeat from * across
  • turn

Stitches Count: 11 hdc and 10 ch-3 sp

 

Row 3-5: 

  • Continuing with Yarn 2
  • ch 2
  • hdc in same sp
  • *ch 3, sk ch-sp, hdc in previous row next hdc sp, 
  • repeat from * across
  • turn

Stitches Count: 11 hdc and 10 ch-3 sp

 

Row 6

  • Continuing with Yarn 2
  • ch 2
  • hdc in same sp
  • *2 hdc in next ch-3 sp, hdc in previous row next hdc sp
  • repeat from * across
  • turn

Stitches Count: 31 hdc

Core Pattern

Note about yarn changes– You CAN carry the yarn up the sides if you don’t want to deal with weaving in ends BUT you will see the opposite yarn along the edge with the border working over the yarns. Alternatively, fasten off when changing colors. 

 

YARN 1 Section:

Row 7

  • pick up YARN 1
  • ch 3
  • dc in same sp
  • dc in each sp across
  • turn

Stitches Count: 31 dc

 

Row 8

  • Continuing with Yarn 1
  • ch 3
  • dc in same sp
  • *ch 3, sk next 2 sp, dc in next
  • repeat from * across
  • turn

Stitches Count: 11 dc and 10 ch-3 sp



Row 9

  • Continuing with Yarn 1
  • ch 3
  • dc in same sp
  • *ch 3, sk ch-sp, dc in previous row next dc sp 
  • repeat from * across
  • turn

Stitches Count: 11 dc and 10 ch-3 sp

 

Row 10

  • Continuing with Yarn 1
  • ch 3
  • dc in same sp
  • *2 dc in next ch-3 sp, dc in previous row next dc sp
  • repeat from * across
  • turn

Stitches Count: 31 dc 

 

YARN 2 Section:

Row 11

  • pick up YARN 2
  • ch 2
  • hdc in each sp across
  • turn

Stitches Count: 31 hdc

 

Row 12-16: repeat rows 2-6

 

Repeat rows 7-16 until Yarn 1 runs out or desired length is reached. 

 

Repeat row 11-16 to finish off with Yarn 2.

Border

If border is desired, ch 2 then work hdc in spaces around- 2-3 hdc for dc rows, 1-2 hdc for hdc rows, and 1 hdc for sc rows as well as hdc for the same number of ch along top/bottom of scarf.  At corners, add ch 2 before working next side. The number is dependent on preference of the look. When reaching the beg of the starting point after working around, sl st to top of beg hdc and fasten off.

Pattern Declaimer

This is a paid pattern originally designed for a Yarn Bits Shop subscription box. 

You have permission to sell any item made from this pattern. However, you are not allowed to resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern or downloads in any printed or digital form (in full), or to claim the pattern as your own original design. If you want to sell or share a picture of your work from this pattern, please clearly credit the design to me: Lauren Samar of Yarn Bits Shop (with link to the website when applicable). 

Occasionally a mistake or typo falls through, please report them via email (help@yarnbitsshop.com) and the pattern will be updated accordingly.

Posted on

QP October 2020 – Dual Weight Scarves

Dual Weight Scarves - Reversible Scarf

October 2020 QuickProjects

Designed by Lauren Samar for Yarn Bits Shop

Feel free to email for pattern help or questions: help@yarnbitsshop.com

In this pattern, there are two scarf options- just in time for the cooler weather! The reversible one is more intermediate and the lacy stripes one is more traditional stripes. Both patterns can be either a straight scarf or an infinity scarf, dependent on preference. What makes this pattern slightly different is that there’s two different yarn weights being worked with. The Hook Nook Yummy yarn is a bit fluffier and thicker. The Hook Hook Small Stuff is thinner and more sleek. The hook is the same size throughout both patterns- what changes is the stitches corresponding to each yarn.

 

Reversible Scarf

Skill Level: Intermediate

Hook: Size J

Gauge: N/A 

YARN 1 = Yummy Yarns, YARN 2 = Small Stuff

 

Getting Started

With YARN 1, ch 19. 

 

Foundation Part 1

  • Continuing with YARN 1- 5 dc in 5th ch from hook
  • *sk next 3 ch, 5 dc in next ch**
  • repeat from * to ** to last 2 ch
  • dc in last ch
  • do not turn and pull long loop of YARN 1 or place stitch holder in loop

Stitches Count: 4 5-dc clusters and 1 dc at either end with 3 skipped ch between each cluster and 1 skipped ch between the row end dc and first/last clusters

 

Foundation Part 2

  • With YARN 2, you will be working in front of the previous row. 
  • Sl st into skipped ch at end of row (where you just finished last row)
  • ch 1, sc in same sp
  • ch 5
  • sk dc cluster and first ch sp
  • *sc in next ch (middle of skipped ch), ch 5, sk next ch and the dc cluster and the following ch**
  • repeat from * to ** one more time
  • sc in next ch
  • ch 5
  • sk next ch and the dc cluster
  • sc in next ch
  • TURN

Stitches Count: 5 sc with ch-5 between each, 

 

Foundation Part 3

  • Continuing with YARN 2- ch 3 to get to top of Foundation Part 1 row
  • sc in in top of beg dc from Foundation Part 1
  • ch 3
  • *picking up corresponding ch 5 from Part 2 AND middle dc sp from first cluster, sc in sp (pulling ch-5 up into point), ch 5**
  • repeat from * to ** for all clusters
  • ch 3 sc in top of ending dc
  • pull long loop of YARN 2 or place stitch holder in loop

Stitches Count: 6 sc with ch between

Core Pattern

Row 1

  • Pick up loop of Yarn 1
  • ch 1
  • sc in first sp
  •  *ch 5, sc in sp between clusters*
  • repeat from * to ** across to sp before last cluster
  • ch 5
  • sc in top of turning ch
  • turn

Stitches Count: 5 sc and ch-5 sp between sc 

 

Row 2

  • Continuing with Yarn 1, ch 3
  • *5 dc in 3rd ch of next ch-5 sp
  • repeat from * across
  • dc in beg sc from previous row
  • pull long loop of YARN 1 or place stitch holder in loop
  • do not turn

Stitches Count: 4 5-dc clusters and beg/end dc

 

Row 3

  • Pick up loop of Yarn 2
  • ch 1
  • sc in same sp
  • ch 6
  • skip ch 3 sp
  • sc in ch-5 sp
  • (ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp) twice
  • ch 6
  • skip next ch-3 sp
  • sc in sc-sp from last Yarn 2 row
  • turn

Stitches Count: 5 sc with ch-sp between

 

Row 4

  • Continuing with YARN 2- ch 3
  • sc in in top of beg dc from Row 2
  • ch 3
  • *picking up corresponding ch 5 from Row 3 AND middle dc sp from first cluster, sc in sp (pulling ch-5 up into point), ch 5**
  •  repeat from * to ** for all clusters
  • ch 3 sc in top of ending dc
  • pull long loop of YARN 2 or place stitch holder in loop

Stitches Count: 6 sc with ch between

 

Repeat rows 1-4 until all of Yarn 1 skein is done OR desired length is reached ending on row 4 regardless. Fasten off YARN 1 only. See Finishing section for options. 

Finishing

If an infinity scarf is desired, there’s 2 options with finishing. There can be an additional mesh section featuring ONLY YARN 2 or the scarf can be continuous with the reversible pattern (no gap between where YARN 1 is present). 

If an infinity scarf is NOT desired, you can fasten off YARN 1 and create a thicker border by crocheting more than 1 round of hdc. 

Alternatively, you can work the mesh pattern for the length desired on BOTH ends of the scarf (kind of like fringe) by continuing with the mesh pattern on the top of the scarf as described in the infinity scarf with mesh section and THEN working the mesh pattern off the bottom of the scarf (for symmetry).

Infinity Scarf finishing with NO MESH

If the mesh is NOT desired, row 4 will need to be redone to pick up the foundational ch spaces.

 

Row 4 FINISHING version

  • Ensure there is NO TWIST in the scarf (fold in half is the easiest way). 
  • Continuing with YARN 2- ch 3
  • pick up both the top of beg dc from Row 2 sp AND corresponding ch sp from foundational ch then sc with those two sp
  • ch 3
  • *picking up corresponding ch 5 from Row 3 AND middle dc sp from first cluster AND corresponding foundational row ch where cluster was placed in, sc in sp (pulling ch-5 up into point), ch 5**
  •  repeat from * to ** for all clusters
  • ch 3
  • pick up both the top of ending dc from Row 2 sp AND corresponding ch sp from foundational ch then sc with those two sp. 
  • Do not fasten off.

Stitches Count: 6 sc connecting top of work with base of work). 

Infinity Scarf finishing with MESH

If the mesh is DESIRED, a similar version of row 3 and 4 will be worked until desired length is reached (reserving some yarn for border)

Row 1

  • Continuing with YARN 2
  • ch 2
  • hdc in same sp
  • ch 6
  • skip ch 3 sp
  • hdc in ch-5 sp
  •  (ch 5, hdc in next ch-5 sp) twice
  • ch 6
  • skip next ch-3 sp
  • hdc in ending sp
  • turn

Stitches Count: 5 hdc with ch-sp between

 

Row 2

  • Continuing with YARN 2- ch 3
  • hdc in same sp
  • ch 3
  • (hdc in next ch-5 sp, ch 5) three times
  • ch 3
  • hdc in ending sp
  • turn

Stitches Count: 6 hdc with ch-sp between

 

Repeat Row 1-2 of mesh pattern until desired length is reached. Repeat Row 1 more time THEN: 

 

Finishing row

  • Ensure there is NO TWIST in the scarf (fold in half is the easiest way). 
  • Continuing with YARN 2- ch 1
  • pick up both the same sp in row just worked AND corresponding ch sp from foundational ch then sc with those two sp
  • ch 3
  • *picking up corresponding ch 5 from Row 3 AND corresponding foundational row ch where cluster was placed in, sc in sp, ch 5**
  • repeat from * to ** for all cluster spaces
  • ch 3
  • pick up both the ending sp AND corresponding ch sp from foundational ch then sc with those two sp.
  • Do not fasten off

Stitches Count: 6 sc connecting top of work with base of work

Border for Infinity Scarf

Regardless of how the infinity scarf is finished (mesh or no mesh), the border is worked the same way. 

Border: On both edges, ch 2 then work hdc in spaces around- 2-3 hdc for dc rows, 1-2 hdc for hdc rows, and 1 hdc for sc rows. The number is dependent on preference of the look. When reaching the beg of the starting point after working around, sl st to top of beg hdc and fasten off. 

Finishing Non-Infinity Scarf Version

To create a mesh edging off the bottom of the scarf, continue with mesh pattern as described above. THEN follow the below row pattern to get started with working the mesh pattern off the bottom of the scarf (bottom of the foundation ch/rows)

Beg row for mesh

  • With Yarn 1 side facing away from you, sl st into first sp of foundational ch
  • ch 2
  • hdc in same sp
  • ch 6
  • sk 2 foundation ch sp
  • *hdc in next ch (same sp as sc from YARN 2 foundational work), ch 5, sk 3 foundation ch sp**
  • repeat from * to ** for a total of 3 times
  • ch 6
  • hdc in last foundation ch sp
  • turn

Stitches Count: 5 hdc and ch sp in between

Work mesh rows 1-2 until desired length is reached. Do not fasten off and go right into border work. 

Non-infinity scarf border

Ch 2 then work hdc in spaces around- 2-3 hdc for dc rows, 1-2 hdc for hdc rows, and 1 hdc for sc rows as well as hdc for the same number of ch along top/bottom of scarf.  At corners, add ch 2 before working next side. The number is dependent on preference of the look. When reaching the beg of the starting point after working around, sl st to top of beg hdc and fasten off. 

Size Variations 

If a wider scarf is desired (this means it will be shorter): 

The beg chain is multiples of 4 plus 3. There should be 3 skipped ch between clusters and one skipped ch between the outside clusters and the beg/end dc. The pattern will be the same except extra repetitions will be added throughout. 

Pattern Declaimer

This is a paid pattern originally designed for a Yarn Bits Shop subscription box. 

You have permission to sell any item made from this pattern. However, you are not allowed to resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern or downloads in any printed or digital form (in full), or to claim the pattern as your own original design. If you want to sell or share a picture of your work from this pattern, please clearly credit the design to me: Lauren Samar of Yarn Bits Shop (with link to the website when applicable). 

Occasionally a mistake or typo falls through, please report them via email (help@yarnbitsshop.com) and the pattern will be updated accordingly.

Posted on

QP November 2020 – Stars and Corkscrews Tissue Box Cover

Stars and Corkscrews Tissue Box Cover

November 2020 QuickProjects

Designed by Lauren Samar for Yarn Bits Shop

Feel free to email for pattern help or questions: help@yarnbitsshop.com

Tissue Box Cover Pattern

Skill Level: Beginners

Hook: Size I

Gauge: N/A 

Yarn: Premier Yarns Everyday Anti-pilling (2 skeins/colors)

The first sections are single crochet (solid) bases. If the moss stitch with both colors are desired, read the 2nd section first. Image is just an example of one way to make it the base is the same but the decorations/amount of decorations can be different! 

Side Surface Pieces

Measure the surfaces of the tissue box you normally buy. For example- the one we normally use is a cube with each surface being 4.5×4.5 inches. The rectangular ones will have 2 different measurements for sides. Keeping the box nearby is helpful also! 

 

Working one side at a time, ch an odd number of stitches plus 1. The length of the ch should cover the width of one side of your box (for example, it was 19 ch for the 4.5×4.5 side and I started with 20 ch). It does not have to go over the sides since there will be a border round that will help fill in a bit of the surface at the end.

 

Foundation Row

  • sc in 2nd ch from hook
  • sc in each ch across
  • turn

Stitches Count: number of beg ch minus 1

 

Row 2

  • ch 1
  • sc in each sp across
  • turn

Stitches Count: SAME as foundation row


Repeat Row 2 until the square/rectangle covers the surface. 

 

NOTES

  • It is ok if it is a little bit smaller since there is a border round. If it’s too big, it won’t be snug against the box. 
  • Also, keep an eye on the edges- make sure they’re straight and that your tension is good throughout. 
  • If your work is warping a lot, you may need to adjust your foundation work- loosening or tightening your beginning chains. Or change hook size. 
  • The other common issue is your width of the chain may not actually cover the surface enough so you may need to add more chains. 

Border

  • ch 1
  • sc in each sp across to end of top side
  • ch 2 for corner
  • sc in each row down side
  • ch 2 for corner
  • sc in each bottom of beg ch sp across bottom
  • ch 2 for corner
  • sc in each row up side
  • ch 2 for last corner
  • sl st into first sc and fasten off. 

Stitches Count: Top and bottom should be the same number of stitches as the row stitches, sides should be the number of rows worked (if it took 20 rows prior to the border, there should be 20 stitches on the side). 

 

Repeat for all 4 sides of the tissue box (not top). 

 

NOTE- The number of ROWS worked for each piece should be the same for all pieces since the height is the same. 

Moss Stitch Alternative for SIDES only

The moss stitch is a straight forward stitch but here, we’re adding another color to make it more interesting. The second color is ONLY worked over and carried up the edges of the row. The beginning chain set-up is the same as above and an odd number of stitches is a must here. 

 

Foundation Row

  • Take second yarn color, make a loop and sl st into last ch with tail on outside and leading strand above next ch
  • With first color loop, sc in 2nd ch from hook working OVER color 2
  • sc in each ch across, carrying color 2 down the row and working OVER it 
  • turn
  • tug sides of piece to ensure the carried yarn is not pulling sides in too much

Stitches Count: number of beg ch minus 1

Row 2

  • With BOTH colors, ch 1
  • With only color 1, sc in each sp across, working OVER color 2
  • turn
  • tug sides of piece to ensure the carried yarn is not pulling sides in too much

Stitches Count: SAME as foundation row

Repeat Row 2 until the square/rectangle covers the surface. 

Fasten off color 2 and complete the border with ONLY color 1.

Top with tissue dispenser slot

You will be repeating the side surface pieces pattern until halfway, making a slit, then continuing with the second half. 

Repeat the set-up, foundation row, and row 2 of the above pattern. 

Repeat row 2 until you’re halfway through– this is easy if your top is the same size as one of the pieces already made- work half of the rows you did for that piece. 

Slit Row 1

  • determine how wide you want your slit to be (you can always test it out after the next 2 rows)
  • with the slit size in mind- determine the number of stitches on either side of the slit
  • ch 1
  • sc in next sp until slit begins
  • skip all spaces until other side of slit
  • ch number of spaces skipped
  • sc in each sp until end of row
  • turn

Stitches Count: total number of sc and ch are the same as the width of row, number of skipped stitches and number of chains for slit should be the same. 

Slit Row 2:

  • ch 1
  • sc in each sp and ch created across
  • turn

Stitches Count: same as row 2 pattern worked.

Test slit out on the tissue box and adjust as needed by undoing work and repeating with more/less spaces skipped for slit. 

Repeat row 2 until the top surface is covered. Compared to the same size side, the top should have only ONE extra row containing Slit Row 1. For example if the same size side piece had 20 rows, the top should have 21 rows (10 rows on either side of the slit). 

Repeat the border round and fasten off. 

Construction 

After all the pieces have been made (5 total), they can be joined together. The sides will be joined together first then the top will be added last. 

 

The side pieces will all be oriented in the same direction- the beginning foundation row work should be at the bottom of the box. This will keep the look uniform all around. 

Connect edges: 

  • With two neighboring pieces, line up the edges. 
  • With the same color yarn OR if you want to highlight corner crease- use other yarn color
  • make loop
  • sl st into BOTH corner sp at TOP (you’re working from top to bottom of cover)
  • *with next stitch lined up- pick up back loop of piece closer to you and front loop of piece further away from you, yarn over and pull through both loops (sl st with specific loops)
  • Repeat from * down edge
  • sl st into BOTH corner sp at BOTTOM
  • Fasten off

 

Repeat for all edges around, connecting each side in order. 

 

Connecting the top piece is slightly different due to the number of stitches on top/bottom vs sides may be different. Repeat the steps for connecting edges for top/bottom of top piece with corresponding edges since the stitches count will be the same. For connecting the SIDES of the top piece to the top of the side pieces, the number of stitches will most likely NOT match up. In this case, line up sides and use stitch markers to keep edges together. You will need to add extra sl st to some spaces on one piece since NOT all the spaces will line up one to one. 

Decorations for cover

After the cover base is done, the motifs to decorate the exterior of the cover can be completed. Below are two motif patterns- the corkscrew and the star motifs. The corkscrew motifs can be attached to the top edge and bottom edge all the way around give more texture.

Weave in all ends. 

Corkscrew Motif

To make 3D corkscrew motifs, 

  • ch desired length (2-3 less than height of box is a good starting point) plus 2
  • hdc in 2nd sp from hook
  • 2 more hdc in same sp
  • 3 hdc in each sp across
  • fasten off

To attach to the tissue box cover: tie or sew the top and bottom of motif (with twists as desired) to edges all around, adding as many as desired.

Star Motif

To start star motif, ch 2.

Round 1

  • 5 sc in 2nd ch from hook
  • join with sl st to first sc

Stitches Count: 5 sc

Round 2

  • ch 1
  • 3 sc in each sp around
  • join with sl st to first sc

Stitches Count: 15 sc

Round 3

  • ch 1
  • sc in first sp
  • *ch 6, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch, tr in next ch, tr around sc at base, sk next 2 sp**, sc in next sp, 
  • repeat from * ending last rep at **
  • join with sl st to beg sc
  • fasten off

Stitches Count: 5 peaks each with 1 sl st, 1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc, and 2 tr 

To attach to the tissue box cover: Sew star(s) onto cover as desired. 

Alternative Project ideas 

Mini basket– no slit in 5th piece (would be bottom here instead of top), may want to add another round to edges since they will be more visible. Edge round would just be sc in each sp around with sc2tog over corner sp to maintain corners. 

Wall Hanging with one piece base and stars/corkscrews motifs artistically placed.

Cozies– Cover a rectangular/straight edged basket, jar, etc with base work and motifs- base is very dependent on the shape of whatever is to be covered. 

Email Lauren for help with the pattern or if you want more ideas! 

Pattern Declaimer

This is a paid pattern originally designed for a Yarn Bits Shop subscription box. 

You have permission to sell any item made from this pattern. However, you are not allowed to resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern or downloads in any printed or digital form (in full), or to claim the pattern as your own original design. If you want to sell or share a picture of your work from this pattern, please clearly credit the design to me: Lauren Samar of Yarn Bits Shop (with link to the website when applicable). 

Occasionally a mistake or typo falls through, please report them via email (help@yarnbitsshop.com) and the pattern will be updated accordingly.

Posted on

QP May 2020 – Jellyfish or Squid Amigurumi

Jellyfish or Squid Amigurumi

May 2020 QuickProjects

Designed by Lauren Samar for Yarn Bits Shop

Feel free to email for pattern help or questions: help@yarnbitsshop.com

Amigurumi is a Japanese word that means “crochet or knitted stuffed toy”. It is very popular in the crochet world and people make all sorts of toys- from animals to dolls to various characters from movies and more! 

This pattern features two options: a squid or a jellyfish. The main difference between the two is the body shape. The squid is sleeker with a rounded fin at the top. The jellyfish is more spherical and wider. The curly tentacles are made (with variations offered) and are attached to the body’s base in the same way for both patterns. The ombré yarn makes for a visually appealing change as the body is worked as well as a variation of tentacle colors. Hopefully this is just the starting point for your journey into the wonderful world of amigurumi!

Jellyfish or Squid Amigurumi Pattern

Supplies: One skein of Hoooked Wavy Blend, Size G hook, needle, stuffing of choice

Skill: Easy

Gauge: 9 rows of 8 sc = 2 in x 2 in

Dimensions: Squid: 11.75 in circumference, 9 in tall (body only); Jellyfish: 19.5 in circumference, 6.5 in tall (body only); Tentacles add ~14 in to height

Abbreviated Stitches

inc = 2 sc in sp

inc2 = 3 sc in sp

dec = sc2tog over 2 sp (place hook in first sp, yo and draw loop through, place hook in next sp, yo and draw loop through, yo and pull through all 3 loops on hook)

Pattern Notes

The  patterns for the body of both the Jellyfish and Squid are read slightly differently to make it easier to track the rounds as well as the changing stitches. If the next part of the row is simply a number that means to crochet 1 sc in each of the next number of spaces. An example: Round 4 of the Jellyfish pattern is crocheted as: sc in next 2 sp, inc in next, sc in next 3 sp, inc in next sp… Another important note about  the patterns, the body is crocheted continuously to avoid creating a seam. There are no beginning ch or (at the end of the round) sl  st to first st. The center of the head should look like a spiral for both patterns.

The patterns themselves are spread out over the inside of the booklet as well as a separate sheet with the body pattern due to its length. See Color Notes to get started

Color Notes

Before starting the pattern, decide the color change gradient- both patterns are worked from top to bottom the way the color would change depends on whether you work the skein from center out or outside in.

After that is decided, decide if you want to use some of the color that you’re starting with for the tentacles. If you’re working from the center of the skein, making 1 or 2 legs before starting the body means you have those color tentacles prior to using up that shade in the body. Same is true for crocheting the base first. Also- using up some of the beginning color means that the color will change a bit quicker (especially with the squid pattern since it is long and uses less yarn therefore only may be 2 shades in the body total). It is only recommended to make 1-2 tentacles and maybe the base prior to making the body. After the body is made, the remaining yarn is used for the legs. The number of legs/length of legs is dependent on the amount of yarn left.

Jellyfish Amigurumi 

Body:

Make magic ring and crochet 5 sc in loop (Round 1). Place a stitch marker or piece of yarn through the last stitch to keep track of the last stitch in all rounds going forward. 

__Round 2:  inc, inc, inc, inc, inc2 [11 sts]

__Round 3:  inc, 1, inc, 1, inc, 1, inc, 1, inc, 1, inc [17 sts]

__Round 4:  2, inc, 3, inc, 2, inc, 3, inc, 2, inc [22 sts]

__Round 5:  inc, 2, inc, 3, inc, 3, inc, 2, inc, 3, inc, 3 [28 sts]

__Round 6:  1, inc, 4, inc, 5, inc, 5, inc, 4, inc, 4 [33 sts]

__Round 7:  4, inc, 5, inc, 6, inc, 6, inc, 5, inc, 2 [38 sts]

__Round 8:  6, inc, 6, inc, 7, inc, 7, inc, 6, inc, 1 [43 sts]

__Round 9:  1, inc, 8, inc, 7, inc, 8, inc, 8, inc, 6 [48 sts]

__Round 10:  inc, 11, inc, 11, inc, 11, inc, 11 [52 sts] 

__Round 11:  4, inc, 12, inc, 12, inc, 12, inc, 8 [56 sts]

__Round 12:  9, inc, 13, inc, 13, inc, 13, inc, 4 [60 sts] 

__Round 13:  inc, 14, inc, 14, inc, 14, inc, 14 [64 sts]

__Round 14:  13, inc, 20, inc, 20, inc, 8 [67 sts]

__Round 15:  22, inc, 21, inc, 21, inc [70 sts]

__Round 16:  11, inc, 23, inc, 22, inc, 11 [73 sts]

__Round 17:  29, inc, 36, inc, 6 [75 sts]

__Round 18:  11, inc, 36, inc, 26 [77 sts]

__Round 19:  10, inc, 66 [78 sts] 

__Round 20:  49, inc, 28 [79 sts] 

__Round 21:  9, inc, 69 [80 sts]

__Round 22:  80 [80 sts] 

__Round 23:  80 [80 sts] 

__Round 24:  49, dec, 29 [79 sts] 

__Round 25:  10, dec, 67 [78 sts] 

__Round 26:  48, dec, 28 [77 sts] 

__Round 27:  30, dec, 36, dec, 7 [75 sts]

__Round 28:  12, dec, 36, dec, 23 [73 sts] 

__Round 29:  1, dec, 22, dec, 23, dec, 21 [70 sts] 

__Round 30:  13, dec, 21, dec, 22, dec, 8 [67 sts] 

__Round 31:  4, dec, 20, dec, 20, dec, 17 [64 sts] 

__Round 32:  8, dec, 14, dec, 14, dec, 14, dec, 6 [60 sts] 

__Round 33: 60 [60 sts]

__Round 34: 60, sl st into next st to finish body. [60 sts] 

Skirt:

__Round 35: ch 3, in front loop only- 3 dc in each st around, sl st to first dc, fasten off and weave in end.  [180 dc] This round should be rippled. 

Finishing:

Make base and tentacles. Attach all tentacles to base. Stuff body with stuffing of choice. 

Using the tail from the base, line up the stitches from the base with the last round of the body interior. Sew lined up stitches together around. Tie off and weave in all ends. 

If desired, add eyes and/or a mouth with yarn, buttons, or safety eyes. 

Squid Amigurumi 

Rounded Fin: 

Make magic ring and crochet 6 sc in loop (Round 1). Place a stitch marker or piece of yarn through the last stitch to keep track of the last stitch in all rounds going forward. 

__Round 2: inc, 2, inc, 2 [8 sts]

__Round 3: inc, 3, inc, 3 [10 sts]

__Round 4: inc, 4, inc, 4 [12 sts]

__Round 5: inc, 5, inc, 5 [14 sts]

__Round 6: inc, 6, inc, 6 [16 sts]

__Round 7: inc, 7, inc, 7 [18 sts]

__Round 8: inc, 8, inc, 8 [20 sts]

__Round 9: inc, 9, inc, 9 [22 sts]

__Round 10: inc, 10, inc, 10 [24 sts]

__Round 11: inc, 11, inc, 11 [26 sts]

__Round 12: inc, 12, inc, 12 [28 sts]

__Round 13: inc, 13, inc, 13 [30 sts]

__Round 14: 30 [30 sts]

__Round 15: 30 [30 sts]

__Round 16: dec, 5, dec, 6, dec, 5, dec, 6 [26 sts]

__Round 17: dec, 4, dec, 5, dec, 4, dec, 5 [22 sts]

__Round 18: dec, 3, dec 4, dec, 3, dec, 4 [18 sts] 

__Round 19: 18 [18 sts]

__Round 20: 18 [18 sts]

Body:

__Round 21: inc, 2, inc, 2, inc, 2, inc, 2, inc, 2, inc, 2 [24 sts]

__Round 22: 3, inc, 3, inc, 3, inc, 3, inc, 3, inc, 3, inc [30 sts]

__Round 23: inc, 4, inc, 4, inc, 4, inc, 4, inc, 4, inc, 4 [36 sts] 

__Round 24: 36 [36 sts]

__Round 25: 5, inc, 5, inc, 5, inc, 5, inc, 5, inc, 5, inc [42 sts]

__Round 26: 42 [42 sts]

__Round 27: 42 [42 sts]

__Round 28: inc, 6, inc, 6, inc, 6, inc, 6, inc, 6, inc, 6 [48 sts] 

__Round 29-34: 48 [48 sts]

__Round 35: 7, dec, 14, dec, 14, dec, 7 [45 sts]

__Round 36: dec, 13, dec, 13, dec, 13 [42 sts]

__Round 37: 6 dec, 12, dec, 12, dec, 6 [39 sts]

__Round 38: dec, 11, dec, 11, dec, 11 [36 sts]

__Round 39-42: 36 [36 sts]

Crochet two more rounds in the same fashion as the last two rounds and cut a long tail of the yarn. These two rounds will be taken out and redone with the base- this is to preserve the same color yarn for the end of the body AFTER all the tentacles are made and attached to the base. 

Finishing: 

Make base and tentacles. Attach all tentacles to base. Stuff body with stuffing of choice. Take out Rounds 43 and 44. 

Round 43: line up base with stitches from Round 42, sc in each set of lined up sp (picking up one sp from body and 1 sp from base at the same time) around. Base is attached. [36 sts]

Round 44: 36 (1 sc in each sp around to beg) [36 sts]. Sl st into next st to smooth edge. Fasten off and weave in end

If desired, add eyes and/or a mouth with yarn, buttons, or safety eyes. 

Base Patterns

The base is where the tentacles are attached prior to the base being sewed or crocheted to the bottom of the body. Both patterns  are the same for Rounds 1-6 and the Jellyfish base needs an additional 4 rounds.

Make magic ring.

Round 1: ch 1, 6 sc in ring, sl st to first st [6 sts]

Round 2: ch 1, 2 sc in each sp around, sl st to first st [12 sts]

Round 3: ch 1, *2 sc in first sp, 1 sc in next sp**, repeat from * to ** around, sl st to first st [18 sts]

Round 4: ch 1, *2 sc in first sp, 1 sc in next 2 sp**, repeat from * to ** around, sl st to first st [24 sts]

Round 5: ch 1, *2 sc in first sp, 1 sc in next 3 sp**, repeat from * to ** around, sl st to first st [30 sts]

Round 6: ch 1, *2 sc in first sp, 1 sc in next 4 sp**, repeat from * to ** around, sl st to first st [36 sts]

For Jellyfish, continue with rounds 7-10.  For Squid, fasten off and weave in ends.

Base continued (Jellyfish only)

Round 7: ch 1, *2 sc in first sp, 1 sc in next 5 sp**, repeat from * to ** around, sl st to first st [42 sts]

Round 8: ch 1, *2 sc in first sp, 1 sc in next 6 sp**, repeat from * to ** around, sl st to first st [48 sts]

Round 9: ch 1, *2 sc in first sp, 1 sc in next 7 sp**, repeat from * to ** around, sl st to first st [54 sts]

Round 10: ch 1, *4 sc in first sp, 1 sc in next 8 sp**, repeat from * to ** around, sl st to first st [60 sts]

Fasten off with a long tail. This tail will be used to sew the base to the body.

Tentacles Pattern

The tentacles are made by chaining a length and crocheting multiple stitches into each sp across. The more stitches added to a space, the curlier. The taller the stitch (dc is taller then sc for example), the wider the tentacles. Different hook sizes may cause variations as well!

In the example image, all the legs were created with 3 hdc in each sp across for a looser curl.  Below is a template pattern for this design but feel free to experiment with lengths of the tentacles and tightness/width of the curls. For longer legs, ch more stitches. For a tighter curl, crochet more stitches in each sp. For a wider curl, replace hdc with dc across.

Pattern:

Leaving a tail that can be tied easily, ch 52  with the first ch a bit more loose. Hdc in 3rd sp from hook, 2 more hdc in same sp, 3 hdc in each sp across. Fasten off.

If the above pattern is followed, there is enough yarn for 8-10 legs. More or less legs may be desired! Start with a few  on the base and add more from there as desired. More yarn is used up with the jellyfish body so the length should be close to the above pattern. The squid would look nice with fewer but longer legs.

Attaching tentacles to base

The tentacles will have two tails on one end of the leg. Using these tails, place the  tentacles in desired position on right side of base and pull the tails through to the wrong side and double knot the tentacle in place. Repeat for all tentacles.

After the body is completed and all tentacles are attached to the base, the body can be stuffed then the base attached (see body pattern for instructions).

Pattern Declaimer

This is a paid pattern originally designed for a Yarn Bits Shop subscription box. 

You have permission to sell any item made from this pattern. However, you are not allowed to resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern or downloads in any printed or digital form (in full), or to claim the pattern as your own original design. If you want to sell or share a picture of your work from this pattern, please clearly credit the design to me: Lauren Samar of Yarn Bits Shop (with link to the website when applicable). 

Occasionally a mistake or typo falls through, please report them via email (help@yarnbitsshop.com) and the pattern will be updated accordingly.

Posted on

QP March 2021 Silk Ribbon Lace Basket or Scarf

Silk Ribbon Lace Basket or Scarf

March 2021 QuickProjects

Designed by Lauren Samar for Yarn Bits Shop

Feel free to email for pattern help or questions: help@yarnbitsshop.com

Silk Ribbon Lace Basket or Scarf

This month’s feature yarn is recycled sari fabric yarn. Because it’s recycled, the colors are very assorted and some beads may be attached still! Due to the loose nature of the yarn, any project that needs stiffer structure is taken out of consideration. With that in mind, there are two featured projects in this box dependent on your preference! The first is a lace basket- which can be hung on a doorknob or a wall and can hold larger items that you may need handy. The other project is a lace scarf. The patterns are simple (and very quick!) to allow for the assorted nature and texture of the yarn to shine through. If neither project speaks to you, the yarn can be used for an edge of a larger project or a more decorative wall hanging! Happy Crocheting! ~Lauren 

 

In this box, there is: 

  • Two skeins of Lion Brand Silk Chiffon Ribbon- $20
  • ChicaGoo Wood Size Q Crochet Hook- $8
  • Collectible and exclusively designed for QuickProjects Boxes monthly sticker- $4
  • Exclusive Pattern and Support- $10

Plus all Yarn Bits Shop Subscribers Perks!

Yarn Prep

The skeins are hanks of yarn and need to be untwisted and wound up into a ball or cake prior to working. 

  1. Untwist the yarn into a circle (pieces of string hold the circle intact).
  2. Find the ends and place the circle over the back of the chair or over knees.
  3. Snip strings and take one end.
  4. Start winding into ball from circle
  5. Repeat for other hank- either continuing into one larger ball or two smaller balls of yarn.
  6. You’re ready to crochet your project!



Lace Scarf

Skill Level: Easy | Hook: Size Q or 15.75 | Gauge: N/A

Dimensions: 6 inches wide x ~100-120 inches long

Ch 9 OR even number + 3 to adjust width of scarf. 

Row 1

  • tr in 5th st from hook (beg ch counts as tr plus ch sp)
  • *sk next sp, tr in next**
  • Repeat from * to ** across
  • turn 

Stitches count: 4 tr with sk sp between each

 

Row 2:

  • ch 5
  • sk first tr st
  • *ch 2, tr in next tr sp**
  • Repeat from * to ** across
  • turn 

Stitches count:  4 tr with ch-2 between each

 

Repeat Row 2 until desired length or all yarn is used up.

Lace Basket

Skill Level: Easy | Hook: Size Q or 15.75 | Gauge: N/A

Dimensions: 9 inch diameter x ~10-12 inches height, measured flat

Ch 3. 

Round 1

  • 10 dc in 3rd ch from hook
  • Sl st to beg dcSl st to beg dc
  • Stitches count: 20 dc

Stitches count: 10 dc

Round 2:

  • ch 2 (does not count as dc)
  • 2 dc in each sp around
  • Sl st to beg dc

Stitches count: 20 dc

Round 3:

  • ch 5 (counts as first dc and ch-2 sp)
  • *sk next sp, dc in next, ch 2**
  • Repeat from * to ** around
  • Sl st to 3rd sp of beg ch

Stitches count: 10 dc and 10 ch-2 sp

 

Round 4: 

  • ch 5 (counts as first dc and ch-2 sp)
  • *sk next ch-2 sp, dc in next sp, ch 2**
  • Repeat from * to ** around
  • Sl st to 3rd sp of beg ch

Stitches count: 10 dc and 10 ch-2 sp

Repeat Round 4 until most of yarn is used up- about 5-6 rows of lace total then complete finishing round:

 

Finishing Round: 

  • ch 1
  • 2 sc in each ch-2 sp around (skip all sts sp)
  • Sl st to first sc

Stitches count: 20 sc

 

Making Loop:

If you have enough yarn remaining, ch desired loop length and sl st to same sp. Fasten off. 

If you do not have enough yarn remaining, either fasten off and securely knot end in same sp to create loop OR fasten off and use different yarn and sl st in sp, ch desired length and sl st to same sp then fasten off. 

 

Weave in ends and hang! 

Alternative Ideas

Create a wider lace rectangle/square. Pin to a corkboard or frame to make an earrings holder. 

Use yarn for an edge of a project. 

Create crochet circles with this yarn and other yarn then attach together and hang to make a pretty wall hanging.

Pattern Declaimer

This is a paid pattern originally designed for a Yarn Bits Shop subscription box. 

You have permission to sell any item made from this pattern. However, you are not allowed to resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern or downloads in any printed or digital form (in full), or to claim the pattern as your own original design. If you want to sell or share a picture of your work from this pattern, please clearly credit the design to me: Lauren Samar of Yarn Bits Shop (with link to the website when applicable). 

Occasionally a mistake or typo falls through, please report them via email (help@yarnbitsshop.com) and the pattern will be updated accordingly.

Posted on

QP June 2020 – One Handle Floral Wrist Bag with Hard Bottom

One Handle Floral Wrist Bag with Hard Bottom

June 2020 QuickProjects

Designed by Lauren Samar for Yarn Bits Shop

Feel free to email for pattern help or questions: help@yarnbitsshop.com

Beginner’s Pattern

This project utilizes mainly single crochet and the single 

handle construction is what makes it a fun bag along with the floral pattern! A hard bottom also makes the bag more functional and doesn’t allow the shape to collapse as much. The height is determined by the maker since it can be anywhere from 6 inches tall to roughly 12 inches tall. The strap/handle is made last based on the height of the bag. This bag can be used for your smaller craft projects or an outing! Join the Facebook group or email for images of project and/or help!

One Handle Floral Wrist Bag with Hard Bottom Pattern

Supplies: One skein of Premier Bloom and one skein of Premier Home Cotton Small, Size F hook, 2 pieces of 9×6″ plastic canvas, needle, stitch markers

Skill: Beginners

Gauge: 13 rows of 11 sc = 2 in x 2 in

Dimensions: Base is about 9 x 6, height is determined by maker

Base Pieces  Notes: tight chain helps avoid twisting BUT if this is not the case for you, adjust tightness of chains. Also, for this pattern, the number of stitches here is not as significant as the size. If 48 stitches are too large (over 9 inches) or too tight, start over and adjust the number of stitches accordingly. It is perfectly fine if you’re off by several stitches since it is really dependent on the individual crocheter.

Base

Note: It is recommended to do a few rows and measure the width to ensure the sizing is correct. The goal is rectangles that are right around 9 inches wide and 6 inches tall. However do not stress if it’s slightly smaller, the plastic canvas can be trimmed down.

Make 2 of the same size:

With a tighter ch or a size hook down if have, ch 49.

Row 1:  sc in 2nd sp from hook, sc in each sp across, turn (48)

Row 2-37: ch 1, sc in each sp across. Ensure the height is roughly 6 inches. Adjust number of rows as needed if off in terms of sizing.

Row 38: ch 1, sc in each sp across, ch 2, sc in each sp down the side (37 sc), ch 2, sc in each sp across bottom of ch, ch 2, sc in each sp up side (37 sc), ch 2, sl st to first sc. Fasten off and weave in end.

Finishing base (after both pieces are made)

Lay the bottom base and place the top base on top. With stitch markers, attach corners together to keep them lined up.

With the cotton yarn, sl st into the space (in both pieces) immediately after a corner. Both pieces will be crocheted together- sp here means both of the lined up sp (one on each base piece).

Finishing Base continued

  • Ch 1 and sc in same sp , sc in each sp and (sc, ch 2, sc) in each corner around three sides.
  • Before proceeding with last side, cut plastic canvas down to two 9×6″ pieces.
  • Take plastic canvas pieces and slide between base pieces, ensure it fit inside the edges. If not, trim down edges as needed.
  • With plastic canvas in place, sc in each sp across to last corner, (sc, ch 2, sc) in corner, sl st to first sc.

Round 2: Continuing with the cotton yarn, ch 1 and sc in same sp. sc in each sp around, skipping corner ch-2 sp. sl st to first sc. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Sides

There are two options with the sides here: per side or continuously. Continuous with the Bloom yarn features thin stripes and does NOT showcase the floral. In addition, the corners are curved. Per side is crocheting each side surface separately then connecting the edges with a seam. This does feature the yarn floral pattern in thicker stripes and the corners are sharper with the seams.

Height is also determined by the maker. There should be enough yarn for around 80 rounds total of Bloom. Continue until the desired height of the bag is reached.

Continuous Side Option

With the bloom yarn, sl st into any sp along the edge.

Rounds 1-50 (to 80): ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each sp around, sl st to first sc. If you have more yarn, more rounds with Bloom can be completed until you run out of yarn. If you want stitching to be visible with handles, set enough yarn aside for that. After the last round- Fasten off Bloom and weave in ends.

Per Side Option

Find corners and mark with stitch markers. Adjust stitch markers so that these stitches are even on the opposite sides (number of long side stitches should be the same, short sides should be the same). The stitch markers should be between spaces.

For each side, crochet the same number of rows:

Row 1: Sl st in sp to one side of the stitch marker, ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each sp across side to next stitch marker. Turn

Row 2-50 (to 80): ch 1, sc in each sp across, turn. After the last row- Fasten off and weave in ends.

Per Side Option continued:

After all sides are completed and for each corner edges:

With the cotton yarn, sl st into lined up row sp at bottom, ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each lined up row sp to the top. Fasten off.

Optional edging for both sides option:

With cotton yarn, sl st into any sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each sp around. Repeat for 1-2 more rounds. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Support Straps

Tunisian Crochet will give a tight fabric with little give. The regular hook is perfectly sufficient here!

Foundation:  With cotton yarn, ch 7-11 (dependent how wide you would like it)

Foundation forward pass: roll chain forward slightly so the back bumps can be seen. Insert hook in 2nd ch back bump, yarn over,  and pull through (2 loops on hook). Repeat for each ch across.

Foundation Return pass: Yarn over, pull  through the first loop on hook (basically a ch 1, known as return ch), yarn over and pull through two loops on hook, repeat across until there is one stitch left on the hook.

Repeat the following until the handle measures the height of your sides and across the base from center of your long sides of base:

Forward pass: Skip first vertical bar, insert hook from right to left (if right handed, it will be left to right if you’re left handed) under the 2nd vertical bar (only one bar on hook when picked up), yarn over and pull up loop, keep loop on hook. Repeat across to the last stitch. Work end stitch: insert hook under last bar and the bar that lies directly behind it, yarn over and pull loop.

Return pass:  Same as foundation return pass.

Handle Buckle and Loop

When strap length is reached (do not fasten off), the ends should lie flush with the edges  on either side of the bag at the center of the long edges (it should lie against the bag from edge, to base, across base, and back to edge on other side of bag).

Finish strap edge: continuing with strap- ch 1, sc in each sp across.

Create buckle gap: ch same number of beg stitches plus 2. sl st to the opposite end of where ch started to create a gap between edge of strap and chain. turn.

Create buckle: Ch 2, hdc in gap (around ch) for two times the number of ch from previous step (for example: if used 8 chains to create gap, complete 16 hdc in gap). ch 2 , sl to to edge sp. Fasten off and weave in end.

Handle Buckle and Loop continued:

Handle Loop: On the other side of the strap (where strap was worked up from), sl st into first sp on one side of strap (similar to front loop or back loop only. ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each sp across.

Row 2: ch 1, sc2tog over next 2 sp, sc in each sp to last 2 sp, sc2tog over last 2 sp.

Row 3: ch 1, sc in each sp across.

Repeat row 3 until the length of loop is reached- long enough to allow your hand to pass through to rest on your wrist plus a little more. It also can be longer if desired!

Last row:  ch 1, 2 sc in first sp, 1 sc in each sp to last sp, 2 sc in last sp. Fasten off with a long tail. Sew the last row opposite loops of the starting point securely. Weave in ends. Loop should be able to pass through the buckle easily.

To finish: Find the center of the long sides and use stitch markers to attach the edge of the strap  to the edge of the sides (buckle and loop should be above sides) on either side of the bag. Using either yarn, sew strap into bag sides and, if not too difficult, across base with a running stitch. Remove stitch markers and weave in ends. Lastly, if desired, a small hook and loop (or variation) can be added to pull short sides together inside the bag edges to create a folded look.

Pattern Declaimer

This is a paid pattern originally designed for a Yarn Bits Shop subscription box. 

You have permission to sell any item made from this pattern. However, you are not allowed to resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern or downloads in any printed or digital form (in full), or to claim the pattern as your own original design. If you want to sell or share a picture of your work from this pattern, please clearly credit the design to me: Lauren Samar of Yarn Bits Shop (with link to the website when applicable). 

Occasionally a mistake or typo falls through, please report them via email (help@yarnbitsshop.com) and the pattern will be updated accordingly.

Posted on

QP June 2020 – Floral Bottle Carrier with Hard Bottom (Intermediate)

Floral Bottle Carrier with Hard Bottom

June 2020 QuickProjects

Designed by Lauren Samar for Yarn Bits Shop

Feel free to email for pattern help or questions: help@yarnbitsshop.com

Intermediate Pattern

This project features one main stitch and it’s a basic one. But what makes it interesting and challenging is the 

construction of it. A bottle carrier, featuring a summery print and the normal 6 spaces, can be used to go to an outing with drinks, or to the farmer’s market for jars or small veggies, or as decoration on your counter for the various jars your kitchen contains. Read the pattern notes prior to making any parts to understand the order of construction since that is key to being successful.

Floral Bottle Carrier with Hard Bottom Pattern

Supplies: One skein of Premier Bloom and one skein of Premier Home Cotton Small, Size F hook, 2 pieces of 9×6″ plastic canvas, needle, stitch markers

Skill: Stitches are Easy but construction is Intermediate-Advanced

Gauge: 13 rows of 11 sc = 2 in x 2 in

Dimensions: about 9 x 6 x 4.5 high inches (without handles included in height)

Pattern Notes: The  bottle carrier mainly features single crochet so the stitching itself is not difficult. However, the order of construction is extremely important to be successful and it may be a bit confusing. But follow the order on the pages 2-9 and the breakdown will make it easier.

Base Pieces (Top and Bottom)

Note: tight chain helps avoid twisting BUT if this is not the case for you, adjust tightness of chains. Also, for this pattern, the number of stitches here is not as significant as the size. If 48 stitches is too large (over 9 inches) or too tight, start over and adjust the number of stitches accordingly. It is perfectly fine if you’re off by several stitches since it is really dependent on the individual crocheter.

Note 2: It is recommended to do a few rows and measure the width to ensure the sizing is correct. The goal is rectangles that are right around 9 inches wide and 6 inches tall. However do not stress if it’s slightly smaller, the plastic canvas can be trimmed down.

Make 2 of the same size:

With a tighter ch or a size hook down if have, ch 49.

Row 1:  sc in 2nd sp from hook, sc in each sp across, turn (48)

Row 2-37: ch 1, sc in each sp across. Ensure the height is roughly 6 inches. Adjust number of rows as needed if off in terms of sizing.

Row 38: ch 1, sc in each sp across, ch 2, sc in each sp down the side (37 sc), ch 2, sc in each sp across bottom of ch, ch 2, sc in each sp up side (37 sc), ch 2, sl st to first sc. Fasten off and weave in end.

Dividers

Set one base piece aside (bottom) and continue working with the top piece.

Outline (to help visualize this, look up surface single crochet):

~Fold the piece in half lengthwise, place stitch markers at the edges to mark the middle points on the short sides. Starting on one end, create a slip knot and place sc evenly across the surface, dividing the piece into two

along the middle. It should be roughly the same number of stitches as the width of the rectangle (~50 with extra stitches from round 38). 

~Divide the long side into three sections (~3 inches each) and mark the edges for both shorter dividers. Surface single crochet from one end to the other twice. There should be the same number of stitches on either side of the middle lengthwise divider.

Dividers continued

Sections (see image to understand direction of crocheting)

For each section (1-3 red paths in image), sl st into first sp at edge, ch 1 and sc in same sp, sc in each sp following path (red arrows for one section). When reach other edge, turn. Ch 1 and sc in each sp back. Repeat until there’s 24 rows (upwards/perpendicular from base). Repeat for all 3 sections (all outline is covered between 3 sections).

Sew Intersection Edges

When all 3 sections are completed, line edges up (where the intersection of the outlines are). With a piece of yarn and a needle, sew the edges together (at the two intersections) and weave in ends. The dividers should be completed!

Handles

Tunisian Crochet will give a tight fabric with little give. The regular hook is perfectly sufficient here!

Foundation:  With cotton yarn, ch 4-6 (dependent how wide you would like it)

Foundation forward pass: roll chain forward slightly so the back bumps can be seen. Insert hook in 2nd ch back bump, yarn over,  and pull through (2 loops on

Handles Continued

hook). Repeat for each ch across.

Foundation Return pass: Yarn over, pull  through first loop on hook (basically a ch 1, known as return ch), yarn over and pull through two loops on hook, repeat across until there is one stitch left on the hook. This stitch is now the 1st stitch of the next row.

Repeat following until the handle measures 56-58″ long:

Forward pass: Skip first vertical bar, insert hook from right to left (if right handed, it will be left to right if you’re left handed) under the 2nd vertical bar (only one bar on hook when picked up), yarn over and pull up loop, keep loop on hook. Repeat across to last stitch. Work end stitch: insert hook under last bar and the bar that lies directly behind it, yarn over and pull loop.

Return pass: Yarn over, pull  through first loop on hook (return ch), yarn over and pull through two loops on hook, repeat across until there is one stitch left on the hook.

Fasten off once length is reached. Sew two ends together without twisting and weave in ends. With stitch markers, mark the join and half way around the loop.

Handles to Base

  • With stitch markers along the long sides of the bottom base piece (not the one with the dividers crocheted on it), mark 10-12 stitches in from the corners (2 stitch marker per long edge). This is where one edge of the handle will be attached and this ensures that the handles are placed evenly.
  • Without twisting the handles, place the join and halfway points in the middle of the base (lengthwise) with the same side of the handle facing up (wrong side facing up so the right side will be showcase along the sides of the carrier in the last step of the pattern).
  • Position the handles so that it lies against the edge stitch markers and use the same stitch markers to secure the position of the handle.
  • Ensure the join/halfway points are still in the middle and that the handles look even on either side.
  • From one long side edge to the other and using the running stitch, sew the handle onto the base using either the cotton yarn if visible stitches are desired or the same yarn to make the stitches invisible.

Cut plastic canvas into two even pieces that measure roughly 9×6″. They do not need to be exactly the same and can be trimmed down as needed shortly.

Finishing base

Lay the bottom base with handles facing upwards. Place the top base with dividers on top. With stitch markers, attach corners together to keep them lined up.

With the cotton yarn , sl st into the space (in both pieces) immediately after the handle on the side closer to a corner. Both pieces will be crocheted together besides where the handles are.

  • ch 1 and sc in same sp. Sc in both pieces to corner, (sc, ch 2, sc) in corner, sc in each sp along short side, (sc, ch 2, sc) in corner, sc to handle edge,
  • sc in ONLY top piece sps to other side of handle edge, sc in both pieces sp to next handle edge, sc in ONLY top piece sp to other side of handle edge
  • sc in both pieces to corner (sc, ch 2, sc) in corner, sc in each sp along short side, (sc, ch 2, sc) in corner,
  • Take plastic canvas and slide between top pieces, ensure it fit inside the edges. If not, trim down edges as needed. With plastic canvas in place, sc to handle edge, sc in ONLY top piece sps to other side of handle edge,
  • sc in both pieces sp to next handle edge, sc in ONLY top piece sp to other side of handle edge, sl st to first st. Do not fasten off.

Sides

Continuing with the cotton yarn, ch 1 and sc in same sp. sc in each sp around, skipping corner ch-2 sp. sl st to first sc and fasten off. Weave in end.

There are two options with the sides here: per side or continuously. Continuous with the Bloom yarn features thin stripes and does NOT showcase the floral. In addition, the corners are curved. Per side is crocheting each side surface separately then connecting the edges with a seam. This does feature the yarn floral pattern in thicker stripes and the corners are sharper with the seams.

Continuous Side Option

With the bloom yarn, sl st into any sp along the edge.

Rounds 1-25: ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each sp around, sl st to first sc. If you have more yarn, more rounds with Bloom can be completed until you run out of yarn. If you want stitching to be visible with handles, set enough yarn aside for that.

Fasten off Bloom and weave in ends.

Optional edging: With cotton yarn, sl st into any sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each sp around. Repeat for 1-2 more rounds. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Per Side Option

Find corners and mark with stitch markers. Adjust stitch markers so that these stitches are even on the opposite sides (number of long side stitches should be the same, short sides should be the same). The stitch markers should be between spaces.

For each side:

Row 1: Sl st in sp to one side of the stitch marker, ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each sp across side to next stitch marker. Turn

Row 2-25: ch 1, sc in each sp across, turn.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

After all sides are completed and for each corner edges:

With the cotton yarn, sl st into lined up row sp at bottom, ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each lined up row sp to the top. Fasten off.

Optional edging: Same as Continuous side option optional edging. Add ch 1 for corners if desired.

Finishing whole pattern:

Line up handles along side straight up from base and sew onto side with running stitch using either yarn. Line dividers edges straight up from the base and sew into side with Bloom yarn and the whip stitch. Weave in all ends and ENJOY!

Pattern Declaimer

This is a paid pattern originally designed for a Yarn Bits Shop subscription box. 

You have permission to sell any item made from this pattern. However, you are not allowed to resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern or downloads in any printed or digital form (in full), or to claim the pattern as your own original design. If you want to sell or share a picture of your work from this pattern, please clearly credit the design to me: Lauren Samar of Yarn Bits Shop (with link to the website when applicable). 

Occasionally a mistake or typo falls through, please report them via email (help@yarnbitsshop.com) and the pattern will be updated accordingly.

Posted on

QP July 2020 – Beaded Crochet Jewelry Set

Beaded Crochet Jewelry Set

July 2020 QuickProjects

Clockwise from upper left: Beaded Checkered Bracelet, Beaded Striped Bracelet, Beaded Dispersed Stands, Beaded Centered Strands. At center, Flower with beaded center.

Designed by Lauren Samar for Yarn Bits Shop

Feel free to email for pattern help or questions: help@yarnbitsshop.com

This is the first time Yarn Bits Shop featured either beaded crochet or jewelry!  Beaded crochet is most commonly seen with the beaded crochet rope and it is not as commonly used in crochet. There are two main patterns provided with multiple variations for each. Regardless- these patterns are perfect for gifts and to wear yourself! More beads will be needed to make multiple items from this one skein of yarn since the yardage need is not high for jewelry. Look for more pattern ideas for this yarn from Yarn Bits Shop in mid-July or so too!

Beaded Crochet Jewelry Set Pattern

Supplies: One skein of Universal Yarn Universe, 40g (or more!) seed beads, size C crochet hook, darning needle for weaving in ends.

Skill: Level noted with each pattern

Gauge: N/A

Dimensions: Dependent on sizing preferences

Abbreviations

ch – chain

bch – bead ch

sl st – slip stitch

sp – space

sc – single crochet

bsc – bead single crochet

hdc – half double crochet

dc – double crochet

tr – triple crochet

 

Bead Stitches

When crocheting with beads, first string all beads needed before crocheting any part of the project. More beads than needed is safer if you don’t want to count the needed beads beforehand. With this yarn, wetting the end is usually sufficient for beading. To make it even easier, use clear nail polish (or not clear nail polish if you don’t have any clear!) and paint the tip. Let it dry and you’ll have a hardened end to make it easier to bead the string!

After beading, begin crocheting pattern as directed and push beads down if not being used. When there is a bead stitch, slide bead up as needed. Follow directions below for stitches used in this pattern booklet:

bead chain (bch): slide bead to hook, yo and pull through loop

bead single crochet (bsc): place hook through sp, yo and pull through sp, slide bead to hook, yo and pull through both loops (secures bead in place to the BACK of the work)

To give more options for patterns, the base pattern is presented first WITHOUT any beaded stitches. Then the following patterns (next page after base pattern) outlines the pattern with beads. See pages 3-4 for the bracelet patterns and page 5-6 for the necklace patterns. See page 7-8 for the crochet flowers with and without beaded centers that can be added to the base pattern for the bracelet and necklace. Images of several variations are on page 8.

For all patterns, instead of suggested clasp options, a lobster clasp can be added to one end and the clasp can pick up the opposite end easily. Lobster clasps can be found in jewelry sections of craft stores.

Bracelet Base Pattern {Beginners Level}

This one is WITHOUT BEADS- see next page for beaded variations.

Beginning Triangle:

Row 1: leaving a long tail, slip knot, ch 2, 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook, turn (3 sc)

Row 2: ch 1, sc in each sp across, turn (3 sc)

Row 3: ch 1, 2 sc in first sp, sc in next sp, 2 sc in last sp, turn (5 sc)

Row 4: ch 1, sc in each sp across, turn (5 sc)

Row 5: ch 1, 2 sc in first sp, sc in next 3 sp, 2 sc in last sp, turn (7 sc)

Row 6: ch 1, sc in each sp across, turn (7 sc)

Row 7: ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 5 sp, 2 sc in last sp, turn (9 sc) 

Note: if you would like the bracelet to be narrower, skip row 7 to keep it at 7 sc wide.

Center Strip

Row 1-31: ch 1, sc in each sp across, turn (9 sc)

Add/remove rows as needed to cover wrist circumference minus 5 or 7 rows (gap is there for the next 5 or 7 rows). 5 rows for if it’s 7 sc width or 7 rows for 9 sc width.

Ending Triangle:

Row 1: ch 1, sc2tog, sc in next 5, sc2tog, turn (7 sc)

Row 2: ch 1, sc in each sp across, turn (7 sc)

Row 3: ch 1, sc2tog, sc in next 3, sc2tog, turn (5 sc)

Row 4: ch 1, sc in each sp across, turn (5 sc)

 Row 5: ch 1, sc2tog, sc in next sp, sc2tog, turn (3 sc) 

Row 6: ch 1, sc in each across, turn (3 sc)

 Row 7: ch 1, sc3tog, fasten off with long tail (1 sc)

Beaded Crochet Bracelet:

Beginning/Ending Triangle are the same but what changes is the center strip. Every other row has beads and two beading patterns are offered below.

Beaded Stripes Bracelet {Beginners-Intermediate Level}

Complete Beginning Triangle then:

Row 1: ch 1, sc in each sp across, turn (9 sc)

Row 2: ch 1, bsc in each sp across, turn (9 bsc)

Repeat Rows 1-2 until desired length is reached 

Row 31: ch 1, sc in each sp across, turn (9 sc)

Then: complete Ending Triangle

Beaded Checkered Bracelet {Beginners-Intermediate Level}

Complete Beginning Triangle then:

Row 1: ch 1, sc in each sp across, turn (9 sc)

Row 2: ch 1, bsc in first sp, *sc in next, bsc in next**, repeat from * to ** across (ending with bsc), turn (5 bsc and 4 sc)

Row 3: repeat row 1

Row 4: ch 1, sc in first sp, bsc in next, sc in next, repeat from * to ** across (ending with sc), turn (5 sc and 4 bsc)

Repeat 1-4 until desired length is reached.

If you want to end the same way started, repeat row 1-2 to finish the center strip.

Then: complete Ending Triangle

Finish with adjustable closure with square knots with additional length of yarn by completing a series of macrame square knots with strands from points of triangle at center. Add a bead to each strand and knot off end. Each end can be used to pull through square knots to open/close the bracelet.

Necklace Base Pattern {Beginners Level}

This one is WITHOUT BEADS- see next page for beaded variations.

Make two of the following:

Complete Beginning Triangle from Page 3 then:

Row 8: ch 1, sc in each sp across, turn (9 sc)

Row 9: ch 1, sc in each sp across, fasten off (9 sc)

This will result in 9 strands in the necklace. If a narrower necklace is desired, only complete rows 1-6 of the Beginning Triangle then one extra row of sc in each sp.

After both Beginning Triangles are complete, follow below for creating strands and check often that they are not twisted or off in length.

Strand 1: sl st in first sp of ONE of the Beginning Triangles, ch until desired length is reached- This is the shortest strand of all so test out the length that is comfortable! 1-3 inches below neck in the front is usually good and the clasp is adjustable so that will give some wiggle room. If your chains are consistent, feel free to keep track of the number of stitches. But if your chains are not consistent, use the overall length. In the 2nd Beginner Triangle, sl st into first sp. When tied together, the strands will go from top to bottom of the triangle at the back of the neck.

Strand 2: sl st into next sp on 2nd Triangle, ch until about 1-2 inches longer than Strand 1. If more separation is desired, make it longer but keep it consistent between all strands. In the 1st Beginner Triangle, sl st into sp next to first strand starting point.

Strands 3-9: Repeat strand 2 until all sp are filled on both triangles (checking with each strand that it looks as desired). Fasten off.

Beaded Crochet Necklace:

The Beginning Triangles are the same but what changes strands containing beads! The first one is beads spread out throughout all the strands. The second one is the beads concentrated at the center of the front of the necklace.

Dispersed Beaded Strands {Beginners-Intermediate Level}

After making the two Beginning Triangles:

Strand 1: sl st in first sp of 1st Triangle, ch 4, *bch, ch 4*, repeat from * to ** until desired length is reached, sl st into 1st sp of 2nd triangle

Strand 2: sl st in next sp on triangle, ch 4, bch, *ch 4, bch*, repeat from * to ** until desired length (1-2 inches longer than strand 1) is reached, ch 2, sl st into next sp on 1st Triangle.

Repeat Strands 1-2 until all strands are completed.

Beaded Centered Strands {Beginners-Intermediate Level}

After making the two Beginning Triangles:

Strand 1: sl st in first sp of 1st Triangle, ch until center of strand (back-to-center-length for future reference) is reached, bch 5 times, ch equal length (back-to-center-length) as first half before beaded center, sl st into 1st sp of 2nd triangle.

Strand 2: sl st in next sp on triangle, ch same length as back-to-center-length from strand 1, bch 9 times, ch equal length as first half before beaded center, sl st into 2nd sp of 1st triangle. Check that strands are separated and not twisted when holding up/on the neck.

Strand 3: Repeat strand 2, except (at center) complete 13 bch.

Strand 4: Repeat strand 2, except (at center) complete 17 bch. 

Strand 5: Repeat strand 2, except (at center) complete 21 bch.

Strand 6: Repeat strand 2, except (at center) complete 25 bch.

Strand 7: Repeat strand 2, except (at center) complete 29 bch. Fasten off if only doing 7 strands. Otherwise, continue with the last 2 strands.

Strand 8: Repeat strand 2, except (at center) complete 33 bch.

Strand 9: Repeat strand 2, except (at center) complete 37 bch. Fasten off.

To finish necklace: chs on either end to tie by: sl st to point of triangle and ch length desired and fasten off. Complete for the other end. Use ch to tie ends together. Could do bch at triangle point to add some beads to tie!

Flower {Intermediate}

Round 1: Make magic ring. ch 2 and sc 10 in ring, sl st to beg sc.

Round 2: ch 1, *(sc, dc) in same sp, ch 1, (dc, sc) in next sp**, repeat from * to ** around to make the beginning of 5 petals, sl st to beg sc.

Round 3: ch 1, *sc in first sp of petal, (hdc, dc) in next sp, (dc, tr, dc) inch-sp, (dc, hdc) in next sp, sc in last sp of petal**, repeat from * to ** around, sl st to beg sc. {Fasten off with long tail here for smaller flower, continue for 1 more round for larger flower}

Round 4: ch 1, *sc in next 2 sp, hdc in next sp, (hdc, dc) in next sp, (dc, tr, dc) in next (center) sp, (dc, hdc) in next sp, hdc in next sp, sc in next 2 sp**, repeat from * to ** around, sl st to beg sc. Fasten off.

Finishing flowers (regardless of size)

Note: If you want to keep flatter, skip the next steps.

Shaping petals: *Sl st into first sp of petal, sl st to last sp of same petal (pinching them together)**, repeat from * to ** for all 5 petals. Fasten off if the beaded center is not desired.

Beaded center: bch, sl st into sp below, *bch, sl st into next sp**, repeat around. Fasten off and pull the end through center to bottom. Use to sew onto bracelet/necklace as desired. Attaching to bracelet is a bit easier and with the necklace, strands can be crochet together at one point THEN flower attached.

Pattern Declaimer

This is a paid pattern originally designed for a Yarn Bits Shop subscription box. 

You have permission to sell any item made from this pattern. However, you are not allowed to resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern or downloads in any printed or digital form (in full), or to claim the pattern as your own original design. If you want to sell or share a picture of your work from this pattern, please clearly credit the design to me: Lauren Samar of Yarn Bits Shop (with link to the website when applicable). 

Occasionally a mistake or typo falls through, please report them via email (help@yarnbitsshop.com) and the pattern will be updated accordingly.