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2024 Subscription Updates

In order to better manage the pattern design and creation process- which directly impacts the shipping of both CrochetMastery and BlanketBox, the subscription renewal and shipping cycles have been updated effective March 1st, 2024. 

CrochetMastery is now one month later compared to the past with shipping months of February, April, June, August, October, and December. The renewals will be the 10th of these months with a shipping window of 15th to 20th of the same month. Below is a sneak peek of the 2024 boxes:

  • CrochetMastery 24.1 (February-March) features Bavarian Crochet with Yo-Yo Crochet techniques and Premier Yarn.
  • CrochetMastery 24.2 (April-May) will feature a Flower Pillow design that’s perfect for spring! A pillow insert will be included with the box too. 
  • CrochetMastery 24.3 (June-July) will feature a sunhat and Patons yarn!
  • CrochetMastery 24.4 (August-September) will feature a bag that is perfect for the market or your projects.
  • CrochetMastery 24.5 (October-November) will feature a sweater design that can be a pullover OR a cardigan. 
  • CrochetMastery 24.6 (December-January) will feature a shawl with sleeves. 

BlanketBox is the same months as before: January, April, July, and October but the renewal and shipping windows are later in the month. The renewals will be the 20th of these months with a shipping window of the 25th to end of the month. Below is a sneak peek of the 2024 boxes:

  • BlanketBox 24.1 (January-March) features jumbo Premier yarn and therefore a quicker pattern!
  • BlanketBox 24.2 (April-June) will feature a mixed-technique pattern including Broomstick Lace and Yo-Yo Crochet with Lion Brand yarn. 
  • BlanketBox 24.3 (July-Septmeber) will feature a quilting-inspired pattern and cotton yarn. 
  • BlanketBox 24.4 (October-December) will feature a Corner to Corner pattern!

These changes allows for more space between the two subscription box shipping windows, no immediate beginning of year (post holidays) shipping, and lines up the seasonality of the CrochetMastery boxes better! 

Thank you for your patience and continued support with the delays in the past. These changes are designed to reduce timing pain points which causes delays with subscription boxes as well as one-time boxes. 

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QP May 2021 Rainbow Inspired Dishcloths

Rainbow Inspired Dishcloths

May 2021 QuickProjects

Skill Level: Easy-Intermediate | Hook: Size H or 5mm | Gauge: N/A | Dimensions: N/A

This month’s feature project is inspired by rainbows! We all need a little brightness in our lives so this is perfect for brightening up your kitchen. There are seven colors in the rainbow but this box only contains five colors (close enough!) to keep the pattern easy enough to manage. The final dimensions are up to you as well since you can continue the base pattern to make the dishcloths larger if desired or you can make multiple smaller ones! Happy Crocheting! ~Lauren

In this box, there is: 

  • Five skeins of Lily Sugar’n Cream The Original in 5 colors- $15
  • Collectible and exclusively designed for QuickProjects Boxes monthly sticker- $4
  • Exclusive Pattern and Support- $10

Note about hook– there is no hook included in the box since it is a very common hook size AND you can make the dishcloth tension as desired with a smaller or larger hook. This means, if you want a TIGHTER fabric, use a smaller hook than recommended size below. If you want your dishcloth to be looser, use a larger hook. 

Crochet rainbow inspired dishcloths

Spiral Rainbow

Skill Level: Easy-Intermediate | Hook: Size H or 5mm | Gauge: N/A | Dimensions: N/A

Work in the following color order to be in the correct rainbow order: Yellow, Pink, Purple, Blue, Green. 

 

The pattern is worked continuously so keeping track of the rounds are a little harder but here are some suggestions:

  • Use stitch markers so that your work is not undone with the other 4 colors while you’re working with the color of the moment. 
  • The next round for that color starts when the number of stitches between 2-hdc clusters increases by 1. 
  • For each color, the same number of stitches between clusters increases repeats twice- meaning you would complete (1 hdc in next x spaces, 2 hdc in same sp) twice before adding one more to x. 
  • Each round total stitches always increases by 10. 
  • The yarn WILL get tangled with the turning of the work, every few rows, untangle the strands to make it easier to pull yarn from skeins. 

 

Round 1: 

  1. With the Yellow yarn, make a magic ring. Ch 2 and complete 2 hdc in ring. Drop loop from hook.
  2. With the Pink yarn, sl st into ring next to the yellow sts, ch 2 and complete 2 hdc in ring. Drop loop from hook.
  3. With Purple yarn, sl st into ring next to the pink sts, ch 2 and complete 2 hdc in ring. Drop loop from hook.
  4. With Blue yarn, sl st into ring next to purple sts, ch 2 and complete 2 hdc in ring. Drop loop from hook.
  5. WIth Green yarn, sl st into ring next to blue sts, ch 2 and complete 2 hdc in ring. Drop loop from hook.

Stitches count: 10 hdc in magic ring, 2 of each color

 

Round 2: 

  1. With the Yellow yarn, 2 hdc in next 2 sp (pink yarn hdc sps). Drop loop from hook.
  2. With the Pink yarn, 2 hdc in next 2 sp (purple yarn hdc sps). Drop loop from hook.
  3. With Purple yarn, 2 hdc in next 2 sp (blue yarn hdc sps). Drop loop from hook.
  4. With Blue yarn, 2 hdc in next 2 sp (green yarn hdc sps). Drop loop from hook.
  5. With Green yarn, 2 hdc in next 2 sp (yellow yarn hdc sps). Drop loop from hook.

Stitches count: 20 hdc, 4 of each color

 

Round 3: 

  1. With the Yellow yarn, (1 hdc in next, 2 hdc in next sp) twice. Drop loop from hook.
  2. With the Pink yarn, (1 hdc in next, 2 hdc in next sp) twice. Drop loop from hook.
  3. With Purple yarn, (1 hdc in next, 2 hdc in next sp) twice. Drop loop from hook.
  4. With Blue yarn, (1 hdc in next, 2 hdc in next sp) twice. Drop loop from hook.
  5. With Green yarn, (1 hdc in next, 2 hdc in next sp) twice. Drop loop from hook.

Stitches count: 30 hdc, 6 of each color

 

Round 4: 

  1. With the Yellow yarn, (1 hdc in next 2 sp, 2 hdc in next sp) twice. Drop loop from hook.
  2. With the Pink yarn, (1 hdc in next 2 sp, 2 hdc in next sp) twice. Drop loop from hook.
  3. With Purple yarn, (1 hdc in next 2 sp, 2 hdc in next sp) twice. Drop loop from hook.
  4. With Blue yarn, (1 hdc in next 2 sp, 2 hdc in next sp) twice. Drop loop from hook.
  5. With Green yarn, (1 hdc in next 2 sp, 2 hdc in next sp) twice. Drop loop from hook.

Stitches count: 40 hdc, 8 of each color

 

Round 5: 

  1. With the Yellow yarn, (1 hdc in next 3 sp, 2 hdc in next sp) twice. Drop loop from hook.
  2. With the Pink yarn, (1 hdc in next 3 sp, 2 hdc in next sp) twice. Drop loop from hook.
  3. With Purple yarn, (1 hdc in next 3 sp, 2 hdc in next sp) twice. Drop loop from hook.
  4. With Blue yarn, (1 hdc in next 3 sp, 2 hdc in next sp) twice. Drop loop from hook.
  5. With Green yarn, (1 hdc in next 3 sp, 2 hdc in next sp) twice. Drop loop from hook.

Stitches count: 50 hdc, 10 of each color

 

Continue with the pattern until the desired size is reached, increasing the number of stitches prior to a 2 hdc sp by 1 each round. Note– If warping occurs, do a round with NO increases prior to the warp occurring. 

 

Finishing:

After you complete the last round, complete the following for each color: 

  1. sc in next sp
  2. sl st in next sp
  3. Fasten off
  4. Weave in end securely.

 

Make as many as desired until the yarn runs out! 

Additional Spiral Pattern Notes

The great thing about the above pattern is it’s VERY modifiable to accommodate variations on the spiral for MANY other projects like wall hanging, coasters, pillow covers, blankets, and more! 

 

The main thing with adding or removing color with different yarns is testing out the first couple rounds for warping. The pattern above can be modified to either sc or dc as needed to maintain flatness. Below are some general guidelines

  • You can make spirals with 3 to many colors (8-12 is probably the maximum dependent on yarn, tension, and stitch of choice). The number of stitches at the center will need to be adjusted for the number of colors.
    • 3 colors: start with 3 or 4 sts of each color at center (9 or 12 sts)
    • 4 colors: start with 3 sts of each color at center (12 sts)
    • 5 colors: start with 2 sts of each color at center (10 sts)
    • 6 colors: start with 2 sts of each color at center (12 sts)
    • 7-12 colors- 1 st of each color at center 
  • Test out stitch needed (sc, hdc, or dc) prior to getting too far into the work. 
  • The center is setting up the colors in the order desired
  • With sc and hdc work, round two is started easily by just starting work in the following color sp. With dc, you may need to do stitches in the beg ch THEN the top of the st. For example: 2 dc around beg ch column, then 2 dc in first sp. In this case, the beg ch stitches count as the first round. 
  • To make a thicker spiral with thinner ones next to it, have two strands of the same color next to each other and work as normal.

Pattern Declaimer

This is a paid pattern originally designed for a Yarn Bits Shop subscription box. 

You have permission to sell any item made from this pattern. However, you are not allowed to resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern or downloads in any printed or digital form (in full), or to claim the pattern as your own original design. If you want to sell or share a picture of your work from this pattern, please clearly credit the design to me: Lauren Samar of Yarn Bits Shop (with link to the website when applicable). 

Occasionally a mistake or typo falls through, please report them via email (help@yarnbitsshop.com) and the pattern will be updated accordingly.

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QP May 2021 Rainbow Inspired Dishc

Rainbow Inspired Dishcloths

May 2021 QuickProjects

Skill Level: Intermediate
Hook Size: H/5mm

This month’s feature project is inspired by rainbows! We all need a little brightness in our lives so this is perfect for brightening up your kitchen. There are seven colors in the rainbow but this box only contains five colors (close enough!) to keep the pattern easy enough to manage. The final dimensions are up to you as well since you can continue the base pattern to make the dishcloths larger if desired or you can make multiple smaller ones! Happy Crocheting! ~Lauren  

In this box, there is: 

  • Five skeins of Lily Sugar’n Cream The Original in 5 colors- $15
  • Collectible and exclusively designed for QuickProjects Boxes monthly sticker- $4
  • Exclusive Pattern and Support- $10

Plus all Yarn Bits Shop Subscribers Perks!

Note about hook– there is no hook included in the box since it is a very common hook size AND you can make the dishcloth tension as desired with a smaller or larger hook. This means, if you want a TIGHTER fabric, use a smaller hook than recommended size below. If you want your dishcloth to be looser, use a larger hook.

Stitches/Abbreviation Guide:

Yarn Over (yo); Space (sp); Stitch (st); Skip (sk); Loop (lp)

Chain (ch): with one lp on hook, yo and pull through the lp on hook

Slip Stitch (sl st): insert hook into target sp, yo and pull through sp AND lp on hook

Single Crochet (sc): insert hook in target sp, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through both loops on hook

Half Double Crochet (hdc): yo, insert hook in target sp, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through all loops on hook

Double Crochet (dc): yo, insert hook in target sp, yo and pull through st, [yo and pull through 2 loops] two times.

Falling Leaf Stitch (leaf stitch):

  1. [yo, insert hook from right to left under designated column below, yo, draw up a long loop to the height of the current row] twice,
  2. yo and pull through 4 loops on hook,
  3. yo and pull through last two loops

Double Crochet 2 Together Cluster (dc2tog cluster):

  1. yo, insert hook into designated sp, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through 2 loops on hook,
  2. yo, insert hook into same sp, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through 2 loops on hook
  3. yo and pull through all loops on hook

Yarn and Pattern Notes

Ra-Ra Raffia yarn does get twisted a bit as you pull it from the center or from the outside. It’s your choice whether you untwist it or not as you go along. The fabric looks good either way!

The pattern is worked from base to body to the straps. The base is more “solid” fabric with an straightforward circular increase. The body features a mix of mesh and a fun stitch called “Falling Leaves” that gives it texture.

One skein gets the entire base and most of the first section of the body completed. The 2nd skein is for the remaining body and the straps.

Base

Dimensions: 13.5 inches diameter, including non-increasing rounds 22-29

Round 1:

  • With size H hook, ch 2.
  • 10 sc in 3rd ch from hook.
  • Sl st to first sc.

Stitches Count: 10 sc

Round 2: 

  • Ch 1, 2 sc in same sp
  • 2 sc in each sp around
  • Sl st to first sc.

Stitches Count: 20 sc

Round 3: 

  • Ch 1, sc in same sp, 2 sc in next sp
  • Repeat [1 sc in next sp, 2 sc in next sp] around
  • Sl st to first sc.

Stitches Count: 30 sc

Round 4: Ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each sp around. Sl st to first sc. Stitches Count: 30 sc

Round 5: 

  • Ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in next sp, 2 sc in next sp,
  • Repeat [1 sc in next 2 sp, 2 sc in next sp] around
  • Sl st to first sc.

Stitches Count: 40 sc

Round 6:Ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each sp around. Sl st to first sc.

Stitches Count: 40 sc

Round 7: 

  • Ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in next 2 sp, 2 sc in next sp,
  • Repeat [1 sc in next 3 sp, 2 sc in next sp] around
  • Sl st to first sc.

Stitches Count: 50 sc

Round 8: Ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each sp around. Sl st to first sc.

Stitches Count: 50 sc

Round 9: continue pattern with 4 sc between 2-sc clusters; Stitches Count: 60 sc

Round 10: Ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each sp around. Sl st to first sc; Stitches Count: 60 sc

Round 11: continue pattern with 5 sc between 2-sc clusters; Stitches Count: 70 sc

Round 12: Ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each sp around. Sl st to first sc; Stitches Count: 70 sc

Round 13: continue pattern with 6 sc between 2-sc clusters; Stitches Count: 80 sc

Round 14: Ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each sp around. Sl st to first sc; Stitches Count: 80 sc

Round 15: continue pattern with 7 sc between 2-sc clusters; Stitches Count: 90 sc

Round 16: Ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each sp around. Sl st to first sc; Stitches Count: 90 sc

Round 17: continue pattern with 8 sc between 2-sc clusters; Stitches Count: 100 sc

Round 18: Ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each sp around. Sl st to first sc; Stitches Count: 100 sc

Round 19: continue pattern with 9 sc between 2-sc clusters; Stitches Count: 110 sc

Round 20: Ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each sp around. Sl st to first sc; Stitches Count: 110 sc

Round 21: continue pattern with 10 sc between 2-sc clusters; Stitches Count: 120 sc

Round 22-29: Ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each sp around. Sl st to first sc; Stitches Count: 120 sc

Body

Dimensions: Each set of Body Round 1-11 is ~6 inches tall

Body Round 1: (Mesh round)

  • Ch 7,
  • Repeat [sk next 3 sp, dc in next, ch 4] around to last 3 sp
  • Skip last 3 sp, sl st to 3rd ch on beg ch

Stitches Count: 30 dc with ch 4 between each

Body Round 2: (sc round)

  • Turn (to keep work straight).
  • Ch 1, sc in same sp,
  • Repeat [3 sc in each ch-4 sp, 1 sc in dc sp] around
  • Sl st to first sc

Stitches Count: 120 sc

Body Round 3: (Leaves Round)

  • Turn
  • Sl st into next 2 sp (to middle sp of 3 sc cluster)
  • Ch 5 (counts as dc + ch 2), sk next 2 sp
  • *Leaf Stitch around next column from Body Round 1
  • Ch 2**, sk first sp of next 3 sc cluster, dc in next sp, ch 2
  • Repeat from * around, working the leaf stitch around all columns from Body Round 1 and a dc between each
  • Ending at **, sl st to 3rd ch of beg ch

Stitches Count: 30 Leaf Stitches, 30 dc, and ch 2 sps between all.

Body Round 4:  (sc round)

  • Turn (to keep work straight).
  • Ch 1, sc in same sp,
  • Repeat [1 sc in each ch-2 sp, 1 sc in dc or falling leaf st sp] around
  • Sl st to first sc

Stitches Count: 120 sc

Body Round 5: (Leaves Round)

  • Turn
  • Sl st into next 2 sp (to sp above Leaf Stitch completed)
  • Ch 5 (counts as dc + ch 2), sk next 2 sp
  • *Leaf Stitch around next column from Body Round 1
  • Ch 2**, sk first sp of next 3 sc cluster, dc in next sp, ch 2
  • Repeat from * around, working the leaf stitch around all columns from Body Round 1 and a dc between each
  • Ending at **, sl st to 3rd ch of beg ch

Stitches Count: 30 Leaf Stitches, 30 dc, and ch 2 sps between all.

Body Round 6: Repeat Body Round 4

Body Round 7: Repeat Body Round 5

Body Round 8: Repeat Body Round 4

NOTE: The next section is optional! You can continue with repeats of Body round 4 and 5 until your desired height for the body is reached OR if you want more “solid sections” between mesh sections, complete Body Round 9-10.

Body Round 9: (dc2tog cluster round)

  • Ch 2, dc in same sp (count as dc2tog cluster)
  • dc2tog cluster in each sp around
  • Sl st to first st

Stitches Count: 120 dc2tog cluster

Body Round 10: Repeat Body Round 9

Body Round 11: Repeat Body Round 4

Repeat Body Round 1-11 with the last repeat ending at Body Round 8 until you reach your desired height OR when the yarn is MOSTLY used up. Not a lot is needed for the straps so just evaluate how much is left after each section.

Straps

After completing the last section of the body and ending on Body Round 8, the straps rounds can be completed.

Straps Round 1: 

  • Turn, ch 1, sc in same sp
  • Sc in each of next 39 sp,
  • Ch 60 (or add more stitches if you want the straps to be longer)
  • Sk next 20 sp,
  • Sc in next 40 sp,
  • Ch same number of stitches as other side
  • Sk next 20
  • Sl st to first sc

Straps Round 2: 

  • Sl st into next sp,
  • ch 1, sc2tog in same sp and next
  • *Sc in each sp until last 3 sp on bag body prior to strap start
  • sc2tog over next 2 sp,
  • Sc2tog over next sp and 1st ch on strap,
  • Sc2tog over next 2 ch,
  • Sc in each ch to last 3 ch sp,
  • Sc2tog over next 2 ch**,
  • Sc2tog over next ch and 1st sp on second body section,
  • sc2tog over next 2 sp,
  • Repeat from * to **
  • Sc2tog over next ch and last sc on 1st body section
  • Sl st to first st

Straps Round 3: 

  • Sl st into next sp,
  • Ch 2, dc in same sp (count as dc2tog cluster)
  • *dc2tog cluster in each sp to next sc2tog sp from previous round
  • Keeping all loops on hook, complete the below for each of the next 3 sp
    • yo, insert hook into designated sp, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through 2 loops on hook,
    • yo, insert hook into same sp, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through 2 loops on hook
  • There should be 6 total loops on the hook. yo and pull through all loops on hook- completed the 3 sets of dc2tog clusters into one sp
  • Repeat from * around, the 3 dc3tog cluster decreases are completed at each “corner”
  • Sl st to first st

Straps Round 4: 

  • ch 1, sc in same sp
  • Sc in each sp around
  • Sl st to first sc,
  • Fasten off and weave in ends!

Pattern Declaimer

This is a paid pattern originally designed for a Yarn Bits Shop subscription box.

You have permission to sell any item made from this pattern. However, you are not allowed to resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern or downloads in any printed or digital form (in full), or to claim the pattern as your own original design. If you want to sell or share a picture of your work from this pattern, please clearly credit the design to me: Lauren Samar of Yarn Bits Shop (with link to the website when applicable).

Occasionally a mistake or typo falls through, please report them via email (help@yarnbitsshop.com) and the pattern will be updated accordingly.

Posted on

CM May 2021 Ra-Ra Raffia Market Bag

Ra-Ra Raffia Market Bag

May 2021 CrochetMastery
Skill Level: Intermediate
Hook Size: H/5mm

Ra-Ra Raffia yarn is an interesting yarn to work with. It is a wood fiber yarn that is water repellant. It can’t be washed but because it’s water repellant, it is easy to wipe down as needed. This yarn is ideal for a market bag for your veggies and other farmer market goodies… but to be safe, don’t use it for heavy items. It’s also perfect for carrying your crochet project if your smaller items are secured in a zip bag!

In this box, there is: 

  • 2 skeins of Wool and the Gang Ra-Ra Raffia – $40
  • Handmade by Lauren Stitch Markers – $6 
  • Size H/5mm Crochet Hook OR extra Stitch Marker- $3
  • Exclusive Pattern and Support- $10

Plus all the subscribers perks! 

Note about pictures of finished project- 

They will be available on the website and FB group mid-second week of May! 

Crochet market bag

Stitches/Abbreviation Guide:

Yarn Over (yo); Space (sp); Stitch (st); Skip (sk); Loop (lp)

Chain (ch): with one lp on hook, yo and pull through the lp on hook

Slip Stitch (sl st): insert hook into target sp, yo and pull through sp AND lp on hook

Single Crochet (sc): insert hook in target sp, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through both loops on hook

Half Double Crochet (hdc): yo, insert hook in target sp, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through all loops on hook

Double Crochet (dc): yo, insert hook in target sp, yo and pull through st, [yo and pull through 2 loops] two times. 

 

Falling Leaf Stitch (leaf stitch): 

  1. [yo, insert hook from right to left under designated column below, yo, draw up a long loop to the height of the current row] twice, 
  2. yo and pull through 4 loops on hook, 
  3. yo and pull through last two loops

Double Crochet 2 Together Cluster (dc2tog cluster): 

  1. yo, insert hook into designated sp, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through 2 loops on hook, 
  2. yo, insert hook into same sp, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through 2 loops on hook
  3. yo and pull through all loops on hook

Yarn and Pattern Notes

Ra-Ra Raffia yarn does get twisted a bit as you pull it from the center or from the outside. It’s your choice whether you untwist it or not as you go along. The fabric looks good either way! 

The pattern is worked from base to body to the straps. The base is more “solid” fabric with an straightforward circular increase. The body features a mix of mesh and a fun stitch called “Falling Leaves” that gives it texture.

One skein gets the entire base and most of the first section of the body completed. The 2nd skein is for the remaining body and the straps. 

Base

Dimensions: 13.5 inches diameter, including non-increasing rounds 22-29

Round 1: 

  • With size H hook, ch 2. 
  • 10 sc in 3rd ch from hook. 
  • Sl st to first sc. 

Stitches Count: 10 sc 

Round 2: 

  • Ch 1, 2 sc in same sp
  • 2 sc in each sp around
  • Sl st to first sc. 

Stitches Count: 20 sc 

Round 3: 

  • Ch 1, sc in same sp, 2 sc in next sp
  • Repeat [1 sc in next sp, 2 sc in next sp] around
  • Sl st to first sc. 

Stitches Count: 30 sc 

Round 4: Ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each sp around. Sl st to first sc. Stitches Count: 30 sc 

Round 5: 

  • Ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in next sp, 2 sc in next sp, 
  • Repeat [1 sc in next 2 sp, 2 sc in next sp] around
  • Sl st to first sc. 

Stitches Count: 40 sc 

Round 6:Ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each sp around. Sl st to first sc. 

Stitches Count: 40 sc 

Round 7: 

  • Ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in next 2 sp, 2 sc in next sp, 
  • Repeat [1 sc in next 3 sp, 2 sc in next sp] around
  • Sl st to first sc. 

Stitches Count: 50 sc 

Round 8: Ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each sp around. Sl st to first sc. 

Stitches Count: 50 sc

Round 9: continue pattern with 4 sc between 2-sc clusters; Stitches Count: 60 sc 

Round 10: Ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each sp around. Sl st to first sc; Stitches Count: 60 sc 

Round 11: continue pattern with 5 sc between 2-sc clusters; Stitches Count: 70 sc

Round 12: Ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each sp around. Sl st to first sc; Stitches Count: 70 sc 

Round 13: continue pattern with 6 sc between 2-sc clusters; Stitches Count: 80 sc

Round 14: Ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each sp around. Sl st to first sc; Stitches Count: 80 sc 

Round 15: continue pattern with 7 sc between 2-sc clusters; Stitches Count: 90 sc

Round 16: Ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each sp around. Sl st to first sc; Stitches Count: 90 sc 

Round 17: continue pattern with 8 sc between 2-sc clusters; Stitches Count: 100 sc

Round 18: Ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each sp around. Sl st to first sc; Stitches Count: 100 sc 

Round 19: continue pattern with 9 sc between 2-sc clusters; Stitches Count: 110 sc

Round 20: Ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each sp around. Sl st to first sc; Stitches Count: 110 sc 

Round 21: continue pattern with 10 sc between 2-sc clusters; Stitches Count: 120 sc

Round 22-29: Ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each sp around. Sl st to first sc; Stitches Count: 120 sc 

Body

Dimensions: Each set of Body Round 1-11 is ~6 inches tall

Body Round 1: (Mesh round)

  • Ch 7,
  • Repeat [sk next 3 sp, dc in next, ch 4] around to last 3 sp
  • Skip last 3 sp, sl st to 3rd ch on beg ch

Stitches Count: 30 dc with ch 4 between each

 

Body Round 2: (sc round)

  • Turn (to keep work straight).
  • Ch 1, sc in same sp,
  • Repeat [3 sc in each ch-4 sp, 1 sc in dc sp] around
  • Sl st to first sc

Stitches Count: 120 sc

 

Body Round 3: (Leaves Round)

  • Turn
  • Sl st into next 2 sp (to middle sp of 3 sc cluster)
  • Ch 5 (counts as dc + ch 2), sk next 2 sp
  • *Leaf Stitch around next column from Body Round 1
  • Ch 2**, sk first sp of next 3 sc cluster, dc in next sp, ch 2
  • Repeat from * around, working the leaf stitch around all columns from Body Round 1 and a dc between each
  • Ending at **, sl st to 3rd ch of beg ch

Stitches Count: 30 Leaf Stitches, 30 dc, and ch 2 sps between all. 

 

Body Round 4:  (sc round)

  • Turn (to keep work straight).
  • Ch 1, sc in same sp,
  • Repeat [1 sc in each ch-2 sp, 1 sc in dc or falling leaf st sp] around
  • Sl st to first sc

Stitches Count: 120 sc

 

Body Round 5: (Leaves Round)

  • Turn
  • Sl st into next 2 sp (to sp above Leaf Stitch completed)
  • Ch 5 (counts as dc + ch 2), sk next 2 sp
  • *Leaf Stitch around next column from Body Round 1
  • Ch 2**, sk first sp of next 3 sc cluster, dc in next sp, ch 2
  • Repeat from * around, working the leaf stitch around all columns from Body Round 1 and a dc between each
  • Ending at **, sl st to 3rd ch of beg ch

Stitches Count: 30 Leaf Stitches, 30 dc, and ch 2 sps between all. 

 

Body Round 6: Repeat Body Round 4

Body Round 7: Repeat Body Round 5

Body Round 8: Repeat Body Round 4

 

NOTE: The next section is optional! You can continue with repeats of Body round 4 and 5 until your desired height for the body is reached OR if you want more “solid sections” between mesh sections, complete Body Round 9-10.

 

Body Round 9: (dc2tog cluster round)

  • Ch 2, dc in same sp (count as dc2tog cluster)
  • dc2tog cluster in each sp around
  • Sl st to first st

Stitches Count: 120 dc2tog cluster

 

Body Round 10: Repeat Body Round 9

Body Round 11: Repeat Body Round 4


Repeat Body Round 1-11 with the last repeat ending at Body Round 8 until you reach your desired height OR when the yarn is MOSTLY used up. Not a lot is needed for the straps so just evaluate how much is left after each section. 

Straps

After completing the last section of the body and ending on Body Round 8, the straps rounds can be completed.

Straps Round 1: 

  • Turn, ch 1, sc in same sp
  • Sc in each of next 39 sp, 
  • Ch 60 (or add more stitches if you want the straps to be longer)
  • Sk next 20 sp, 
  • Sc in next 40 sp, 
  • Ch same number of stitches as other side
  • Sk next 20
  • Sl st to first sc

 

Straps Round 2: 

  • Sl st into next sp, 
  • ch 1, sc2tog in same sp and next
  • *Sc in each sp until last 3 sp on bag body prior to strap start
  • sc2tog over next 2 sp, 
  • Sc2tog over next sp and 1st ch on strap, 
  • Sc2tog over next 2 ch,
  • Sc in each ch to last 3 ch sp, 
  • Sc2tog over next 2 ch**,
  • Sc2tog over next ch and 1st sp on second body section, 
  • sc2tog over next 2 sp,
  • Repeat from * to **
  • Sc2tog over next ch and last sc on 1st body section
  • Sl st to first st

 

Straps Round 3: 

  • Sl st into next sp, 
  • Ch 2, dc in same sp (count as dc2tog cluster)
  • *dc2tog cluster in each sp to next sc2tog sp from previous round
  • Keeping all loops on hook, complete the below for each of the next 3 sp
    • yo, insert hook into designated sp, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through 2 loops on hook, 
    • yo, insert hook into same sp, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through 2 loops on hook
  • There should be 6 total loops on the hook. yo and pull through all loops on hook- completed the 3 sets of dc2tog clusters into one sp
  • Repeat from * around, the 3 dc3tog cluster decreases are completed at each “corner”
  • Sl st to first st

 

Straps Round 4: 

  • ch 1, sc in same sp
  • Sc in each sp around
  • Sl st to first sc, 
  • Fasten off and weave in ends!

Pattern Declaimer

This is a paid pattern originally designed for a Yarn Bits Shop subscription box. 

You have permission to sell any item made from this pattern. However, you are not allowed to resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern or downloads in any printed or digital form (in full), or to claim the pattern as your own original design. If you want to sell or share a picture of your work from this pattern, please clearly credit the design to me: Lauren Samar of Yarn Bits Shop (with link to the website when applicable). 

Occasionally a mistake or typo falls through, please report them via email (help@yarnbitsshop.com) and the pattern will be updated accordingly.

Posted on

QP September 2020 – Flower and Leaves Fall Garland

Flower and Leaves Fall Garland

September 2020 QuickProjects
From Left to Right: 3D Flower, 2D Flower (small), 3D Flower (Large), Basic Leaf, Maple Leaf, Oak Leaf

Designed by Lauren Samar for Yarn Bits Shop

Feel free to email for pattern help or questions: help@yarnbitsshop.com

The feature pattern for this month is FALL themed and straightforward. Patterns are on the easier side this month but multiple pieces need to be made. To create your garland: choose which motifs you would like to make, make an assortment as desired, create bundles if desired, then connect them with a long chain to create a garland. Hang around a window or a doorway or along a wall to celebrate fall! Alternatively, a foam core can be purchased and the motifs can be attached to the foam core. With a variated colored yarn and a solid color, all the motifs will look a little different!

Flower and Leaves Fall Garland Pattern

Supplies: One skein of Red Heart Roll with It Malange, one skein of Red Heart Soft, size H crochet hook, darning needle for weaving in ends. If wreath is desired, a foam core wreath is needed.

Skill: Level noted with each pattern

Gauge: Does not matter here.

Dimensions:  Does not matter here.

Basic Leaf

Skill Level: Easy

With color of choice, ch 9.

Round 1: sc in 2nd sp from hook, 2 dc in next sp, hdc in next 3, sc in next 2, 3 sc in last sp (wraps to other side), continue on other side of beg ch (“bottom” of ch string) and sc in next 2, hdc in next 3, 2 dc in next, sc in last sp, ch 1, sl st to first sc of round. {19 total stitches}

Round 2: ch 1, 2 sc in same sp, (2 dc in next sp) 3 times, hdc in next 3 sp, sc in next 2 sp, (sc, ch 2, sc) in point sp, sc in next 2 sp, hdc in next 3 sp, (2 hdc in next sp) 3 times, 2 sc in next sp, sc in ch-2 sp, sl st to first sc of round. {29 total stitches}

Stem: ch 6 (or change to adjust length of stem), sc in 2nd sp from hook, sc in each sp across to leaf/base of stem, sl st into same starting sp, fasten off. Weave in ends.

Sunflower-Inspired 2D Flower SMALL

Skill Level: Easy-Intermediate

Part 1– make the flat spiral base and petals

With color A, make magic ring.

Round 1: ch 2, 10 hdc in ring. Instead of making circle, create spiral by crocheting 2 hdc into the beg ch 2 sp, place stitch marker here if desired {12 hdc, start of spiral}

Round 2: working in back loop only, 2 hdc in each sp around to beg of round {24 hdc}

Round 3: working in back loop only, *sc in next sp, ch 8**, repeat from * to ** around to last sp, sl st to first sc, fasten off. {24 loops}

Part 2– make center spiral

With color B, sl st into ring at center next to beg ch 2 from round 1.

Spiral Round 1: ch 2, hdc in same sp in ring, hdc in first front loop of spiral, hdc in next 11 front loop sp.

Spiral Round 2: sc in next 24 front loop sp, sl st into back loop of next sp available, fasten off.

Weave in ends. If using for garland, make 2 and sew together to hide backs or sew leaves to back.

Sunflower-Inspired 2D Flower LARGE

Skill Level: Easy-Intermediate

Part 1– make the flat spiral base and petals

With color A, make magic ring.

Round 1-2: Same as SMALL version.

Round 3: working in back loop only, *1 hdc in next sp, 2 hdc in next sp**, repeat from * to ** around {36 hdc}

Round 4: working in back loop only, *sc in next sp, ch 10**, repeat from * to ** around to last sp, sl st to first sc, fasten off. {36 loops}

Part 2– make center spiral

With color B, sl st into ring at center next to beg ch 2 from round 1.

Spiral Round 1: ch 3, dc in same sp in ring, dc in first front loop of spiral, dc in next 11 front loop sp.

Spiral Round 2: hdc in next 24 front loop sp

Spiral Round 3: sc in next 36 front loop sp, sl st into back loop of next sp available, fasten off.

Weave in ends. If using for garland, make 2 and sew together to hide backs or sew leaves to back

Chrysanthemum-Inspired 3D Flower

Skill Level: Intermediate

This can be done with one color or two colors. If using two, Color A will be used only in row 1 as the “stem” of the flower.

With color A, create a long tail and ch 26

Row 1: hdc in 3rd sp from hook, hdc in each sp across, fasten off color A OR turn continue if using one color {24 hdc}

Row 2: *sl st in sp, ch 10, sl st in same sp**, repeat from * to ** across, creating 24 loops, fasten off. {24 loops}

With the long tail from the beg of the pattern, the solid row 1 will be rolled up and sewed (with the tail) as it is rolled up. Start with the end that has the long tail and continuously push the needle through the entire roll to the other side to secure it. Once the whole row has been rolled up, fasten off securely and weave in ends.

Maple Leaf

Skill Level: Intermediate

Two colors can be used here with one color for Round 1 and the other for round 2-3. Alternatively, the entire pattern can be done with one color

With color of choice, make magic ring.

Round 1: ch 1, all in the ring: 2 sc, 2 hdc, 2 dc, 3 tr, 2 dc, 2 hdc, 1 sc, sl st to first sc of round. {14 stitches}

Round 2: ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in next, (2 sc in next) twice, (2 hdc in next) twice, 2 dc in next, 3 tr in next, 2 dc in next, (2 hdc in next) twice, (2 sc in next) twice, sc in next, sl st to beg sc. {26 stitches}

Round 3: ch 1, sl st into same sp, sc in next, 2 hdc in next, (dc, ch 3, sl st into first ch, dc) in next, 2 hdc in next, (sc, sl st) in next, (sc, hdc) in next, 2 dc in next, (tr, ch 3, sl st into first ch, tr) in next, 2 dc in next, (hdc, sc, sl st) in next, (sc, hdc) in next, 2 dc in next, (2 tr, ch 3, sl st into first ch, 2 tr) in next, 2 dc in next, (hdc, sc, sl st) in next, (sc, hdc) in next, 2 dc in next, (tr, ch 3, sl st to first ch, tr) in next, 2 dc in next, (hdc, sc, sl st) in next, sc in next, 2 hdc in next, (dc, ch 3, sl st into first ch, dc) in next, 2 hdc in next, sc in next, sl st into center sp (same sp as first sl st).

Stem: ch 6 (or adjust for desired stem length), sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each sp across to base/leaf, sl st into same sp as base.

Oak Leaf

Skill Level: Intermediate

Two colors can be used here with one color for Round 1 and the other for round 2-3. Alternatively, the entire pattern can be done with one color.

With color of choice, Ch 13.

Round 1: sc in 2nd sp from hook, sc in each sp across to last sp, 4 sc in last sp (wrapping to other side), sc in each sp across on “bottom” of ch, ch 1, sl st to first sc of round. {26 total stitches}

Round 2: ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in next 4, hdc in next 5 sp, dc in next 2 sp, 2 dc in each of next 4 sp, dc in next 2 sp, hdc in next 5 sp, sc in next 5 sp, 2 sc in ch-1 sp, sl st to first sc of round. {34 total stitches}

Round 3: ch 1, sc in same sp, 2 dc in next, sc in next, sl st into next, (sc, hdc) in next sp, 2 tr in next, (hdc, sc) in next, sl st into next, (sc, dc) in next, 3 tr in next, (dc, sc) in next, sc in next 4 sp, 2 sc in next 3 sp, sc in next 4 sp, (sc, dc) in next, 3 tr in next, (dc, sc) in next, sl st into next sp, (sc, hdc) in next, 2 tr in next, (hdc, sc) in next, sl st into next sp, sc in next, 2 dc in next, sc in next, sc in next 2 sp, sl st to first sc. {54 total stitches}

Stem: turn, sl st into next sp, ch 6 (or adjust for length of stem), sc in 2nd sp from hook, sc in each ch towards base of chains/leaf, sl st into next sp, fasten off.

Finishing

After making an assortment of leaves and flowers (as many as you desire but leaving some of the Soft yarn to finish garland), make sure all ends are woven in. If desired, bundles of motifs can be created (leaf sewed onto flower, etc) prior to attaching all to garland.

The garland is created by chaining and slip stitching into the stems or a loop to pick up flowers/leaves as you go.

For example:

Ch 20, sl st into ch from one loop of a 2D flower, ch 20, sl st into the end of the stem of a leaf, ch 20, sl st into the base of the 3D flower,…. and so forth.

Alternatively… If a garland is not desired, a wreath can be made with the motifs! With a foam core, wrap core with yarn in prefered method. Sew on motifs desired.

Pattern Declaimer

This is a paid pattern originally designed for a Yarn Bits Shop subscription box. 

You have permission to sell any item made from this pattern. However, you are not allowed to resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern or downloads in any printed or digital form (in full), or to claim the pattern as your own original design. If you want to sell or share a picture of your work from this pattern, please clearly credit the design to me: Lauren Samar of Yarn Bits Shop (with link to the website when applicable). 

Occasionally a mistake or typo falls through, please report them via email (help@yarnbitsshop.com) and the pattern will be updated accordingly.

Posted on

QP Ripple Project Bag

Ripple Project Bag

February 2020 QuickProjects

Designed by Lauren Samar for Yarn Bits Shop

Feel free to email for pattern help or questions: help@yarnbitsshop.com

The Caron x Patone collaboration resulted in beautifully colored yarn combinations  with 5 high quality hanks braided up. The main downside of these braids is the small volume of yarn in a single braid. But with spectacular color combinations already provided, fun projects can certainly be created with these braids. This project in particular focuses on ripples- something not seen as often outside of crochet blankets- as it’s an interesting way to feature this yarn. The project bag is a cute way to carry some yarn around but it can also be repurposed as a clutch for a night out!

Ripple Project Bag Pattern

Supplies: 2  braids of Caron x Patone, size G Hook, yarn needle, (optional) button

Skill:  Easy

Gauge:  One ripple width (valley to valley) = ~ 1.75″; 8 rows of ripples = ~ 2″

Dimensions: ~6.5″ x 8″ flat (not including flap).

See bottom of page 6 for different size options.

Unbraiding the yarn

The Caron x Patone braids come with 5 hanks looped into the one above it and it isn’t obvious how to get the yarn balled up.

  • Take the tag out.
  • At the top and bottom of the braid, there is a piece of yarn  going in the opposite direction of most of the strands. Snip that off.
  • Pull the top/bottom hank out of the next hank towards the center. Repeat until all colors are separated.
  • Each hank is twisted up into smaller loops for the braid, untwist the hank until the hank is one larger loop (all will be the same size). There will be a spot on the loop where the hank is tied.
  • Untie the beg/end of the skein and place over a corner (back of chair, over your knee, etc) and wind up into a ball. Repeat for all colors. 
  • Get crocheting!

Special stitches:

sc3tog = single crochet 3 together.

  • Insert hook in first sp, yo and pull through sp (2 loops on hook)
  • Insert hook in second sp, yo and pull through sp (3 loops on hook)
  • Insert hook in 3rd sp, yo and pull through sp (4 loops on hook)
  • Yo and pull through all loops on hook (1 loop on hook)

sc2tog = sc 2 together: Steps 1 and 2 then 4 of above.

Color options:

With the alternating directions of the rounds, it is recommanded to keep one color over 2 or multiple of 2 rows due to how the sc3tog looks on the wrong side. However, if you want to do single rows, test out the color combinations and have fun!

There are SO many options with color combinatons here. You can do a simple order of 2 rows of each color or you can do a bit more complicated combination. Take some time to think about what you would like before starting! Also see bottom of page 6 for size variation guide.

Base:

With color A, Ch 36

Round 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. In the last ch, sc 2 more in same sp (one for the center and one for the other side). Sc in each ch across on the other side to where the round started. sc 2 in beg ch (3 sc in beg and end of row). sl st to first sc. Do not turn. (72 sc total)

Round 2: ch 1, sc in same sp (first sc off to the end sc), *hdc in next, dc in next, tr in next 2 sp, dc in next, hdc in next, sc in next, sl st in next, sc in next**, repeat from * to ** 6 more times , repeat * to ** skipping the last sc, sl st to beg sc. Fasten off (if desired color change happens here). (8 peaks, 4 on each side).

Round 3: With color B (if desired) and crochet in same direction as previous round, sl st to sp between 2 tr on any peak. ch 1, (sc, hdc, sc) in same sp, *sc in next 3, sc3tog with next 3 sp, sc in next 3, (sc, hdc, sc) in sp between 2 tr**, repeat from * to ** around, sl st to beg sc, turn.

Round 4: Crocheting in opposite direction as previous round, ch 1, sc in next 2 sp, *sc3tog, sc in next 3 sp, (sc, hdc, sc) in center of peak sp, sc in next 3 sp**, repeat from * to ** around to beg, sl st to beg ch. Fasten off if maintaining 2 rows of each color pattern. 

Body:

For the body, remember the following: Each peak will have (sc, hdc, sc) at the center. Each side of the peak will have 3 sc. Each valley will be sc3tog. Fasten off one color and start new color with sl st for all color changes.

Round 5: Sl st to center of peak sp, ch 1, (sc, hdc, sc) in same sp, *sc in next 3, sc3tog with next 3 sp, sc in next 3, (sc, hdc, sc) in center of peak sp**, repeat from * to ** around, sl st to beg sc. turn.

Round 6: Repeat round 4.

Repeat rounds 5 and 6 until 30 rounds are completed or desired length is achieved.

Finishing:

There are two main options for the opening of the project bag. A flap can be created or the opening can be even all around and be closed with a drawstring woven in around towards the opening.

Drawstring option:

Crochet the desired length of the body. Cut a length of 1 or more strands of the yarn. Weave strands around bag (I recommend using the peak spaces a couple rows down. Knot ends of strand(s) and test pulling strands to close bag.

Flap option:

With color of choice and back of bag facing you, sl st to sp next to center of valley on one end. 

Row 1: ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in next 3 sp, *(sc, hdc, sc) in center of peak sp, sc in next 3 sp, sc3tog, sc in next 3 sp**, repeat from * to ** along ONE side of the bag (4 peaks), (sc, hdc, sc) in 4th peak, sc in next 4 sp, turn.

Row 2: ch 1, sc2tog over first and second sp, sc in next 3 sp, *(sc, hdc, sc) in center of peak sp, sc in next 3 sp, sc3tog, sc in next 3 sp**, repeat from * to ** to last peak, sc in next 3 sp on last side, sc2tog over last 2 sp, turn.

Repeat row 2 for desired length of flap, maintaining color combination desired.

If desired:

Create a simple rectangle and sew it on for a wrist/short strap on the back of the bag or over the top. Add a button if desired to keep flap closed.

Size variation: 

For a wider bag, ch a multiple of 9 for the beg ch. For every additional multiple, there will be 2 additional peaks (one on either side of the bag).

Pattern Declaimer

This is a paid pattern originally designed for a Yarn Bits Shop subscription box. 

You have permission to sell any item made from this pattern. However, you are not allowed to resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern or downloads in any printed or digital form (in full), or to claim the pattern as your own original design. If you want to sell or share a picture of your work from this pattern, please clearly credit the design to me: Lauren Samar of Yarn Bits Shop (with link to the website when applicable). 

Occasionally a mistake or typo falls through, please report them via email (help@yarnbitsshop.com) and the pattern will be updated accordingly.

Posted on

QP October 2020 – Dual Weight Scarves 2

Dual Weight Scarves - Lacy Stripes Scarf

October 2020 QuickProjects

Designed by Lauren Samar for Yarn Bits Shop

Feel free to email for pattern help or questions: help@yarnbitsshop.com

In this pattern, there are two scarf options- just in time for the cooler weather! The reversible one is more intermediate and the lacy stripes one is more traditional stripes. Both patterns can be either a straight scarf or an infinity scarf, dependent on preference. What makes this pattern slightly different is that there’s two different yarn weights being worked with. The Hook Nook Yummy yarn is a bit fluffier and thicker. The Hook Hook Small Stuff is thinner and more sleek. The hook is the same size throughout both patterns- what changes is the stitches corresponding to each yarn.

Lacy Stripes Scarf

Skill Level: Beginners

Hook: Size J

Gauge: N/A 

YARN 1 = Yummy Yarns, YARN 2 = Small Stuff

Getting Started

With YARN 2, ch 34. {Or multiples of 3 plus 3}

 

Foundation Row

  • hdc in 3rd ch from hook
  • hdc in each sp across
  • Turn

Stitches Count: 31 hdc, beg ch does not count as hdc

 

Row 2

  • Continuing with Yarn 2
  • ch 2
  • hdc in same sp
  • *ch 3, sk next 2 sp, hdc in next
  • repeat from * across
  • turn

Stitches Count: 11 hdc and 10 ch-3 sp

 

Row 3-5: 

  • Continuing with Yarn 2
  • ch 2
  • hdc in same sp
  • *ch 3, sk ch-sp, hdc in previous row next hdc sp, 
  • repeat from * across
  • turn

Stitches Count: 11 hdc and 10 ch-3 sp

 

Row 6

  • Continuing with Yarn 2
  • ch 2
  • hdc in same sp
  • *2 hdc in next ch-3 sp, hdc in previous row next hdc sp
  • repeat from * across
  • turn

Stitches Count: 31 hdc

Core Pattern

Note about yarn changes– You CAN carry the yarn up the sides if you don’t want to deal with weaving in ends BUT you will see the opposite yarn along the edge with the border working over the yarns. Alternatively, fasten off when changing colors. 

 

YARN 1 Section:

Row 7

  • pick up YARN 1
  • ch 3
  • dc in same sp
  • dc in each sp across
  • turn

Stitches Count: 31 dc

 

Row 8

  • Continuing with Yarn 1
  • ch 3
  • dc in same sp
  • *ch 3, sk next 2 sp, dc in next
  • repeat from * across
  • turn

Stitches Count: 11 dc and 10 ch-3 sp



Row 9

  • Continuing with Yarn 1
  • ch 3
  • dc in same sp
  • *ch 3, sk ch-sp, dc in previous row next dc sp 
  • repeat from * across
  • turn

Stitches Count: 11 dc and 10 ch-3 sp

 

Row 10

  • Continuing with Yarn 1
  • ch 3
  • dc in same sp
  • *2 dc in next ch-3 sp, dc in previous row next dc sp
  • repeat from * across
  • turn

Stitches Count: 31 dc 

 

YARN 2 Section:

Row 11

  • pick up YARN 2
  • ch 2
  • hdc in each sp across
  • turn

Stitches Count: 31 hdc

 

Row 12-16: repeat rows 2-6

 

Repeat rows 7-16 until Yarn 1 runs out or desired length is reached. 

 

Repeat row 11-16 to finish off with Yarn 2.

Border

If border is desired, ch 2 then work hdc in spaces around- 2-3 hdc for dc rows, 1-2 hdc for hdc rows, and 1 hdc for sc rows as well as hdc for the same number of ch along top/bottom of scarf.  At corners, add ch 2 before working next side. The number is dependent on preference of the look. When reaching the beg of the starting point after working around, sl st to top of beg hdc and fasten off.

Pattern Declaimer

This is a paid pattern originally designed for a Yarn Bits Shop subscription box. 

You have permission to sell any item made from this pattern. However, you are not allowed to resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern or downloads in any printed or digital form (in full), or to claim the pattern as your own original design. If you want to sell or share a picture of your work from this pattern, please clearly credit the design to me: Lauren Samar of Yarn Bits Shop (with link to the website when applicable). 

Occasionally a mistake or typo falls through, please report them via email (help@yarnbitsshop.com) and the pattern will be updated accordingly.

Posted on

QP October 2020 – Dual Weight Scarves

Dual Weight Scarves - Reversible Scarf

October 2020 QuickProjects

Designed by Lauren Samar for Yarn Bits Shop

Feel free to email for pattern help or questions: help@yarnbitsshop.com

In this pattern, there are two scarf options- just in time for the cooler weather! The reversible one is more intermediate and the lacy stripes one is more traditional stripes. Both patterns can be either a straight scarf or an infinity scarf, dependent on preference. What makes this pattern slightly different is that there’s two different yarn weights being worked with. The Hook Nook Yummy yarn is a bit fluffier and thicker. The Hook Hook Small Stuff is thinner and more sleek. The hook is the same size throughout both patterns- what changes is the stitches corresponding to each yarn.

 

Reversible Scarf

Skill Level: Intermediate

Hook: Size J

Gauge: N/A 

YARN 1 = Yummy Yarns, YARN 2 = Small Stuff

 

Getting Started

With YARN 1, ch 19. 

 

Foundation Part 1

  • Continuing with YARN 1- 5 dc in 5th ch from hook
  • *sk next 3 ch, 5 dc in next ch**
  • repeat from * to ** to last 2 ch
  • dc in last ch
  • do not turn and pull long loop of YARN 1 or place stitch holder in loop

Stitches Count: 4 5-dc clusters and 1 dc at either end with 3 skipped ch between each cluster and 1 skipped ch between the row end dc and first/last clusters

 

Foundation Part 2

  • With YARN 2, you will be working in front of the previous row. 
  • Sl st into skipped ch at end of row (where you just finished last row)
  • ch 1, sc in same sp
  • ch 5
  • sk dc cluster and first ch sp
  • *sc in next ch (middle of skipped ch), ch 5, sk next ch and the dc cluster and the following ch**
  • repeat from * to ** one more time
  • sc in next ch
  • ch 5
  • sk next ch and the dc cluster
  • sc in next ch
  • TURN

Stitches Count: 5 sc with ch-5 between each, 

 

Foundation Part 3

  • Continuing with YARN 2- ch 3 to get to top of Foundation Part 1 row
  • sc in in top of beg dc from Foundation Part 1
  • ch 3
  • *picking up corresponding ch 5 from Part 2 AND middle dc sp from first cluster, sc in sp (pulling ch-5 up into point), ch 5**
  • repeat from * to ** for all clusters
  • ch 3 sc in top of ending dc
  • pull long loop of YARN 2 or place stitch holder in loop

Stitches Count: 6 sc with ch between

Core Pattern

Row 1

  • Pick up loop of Yarn 1
  • ch 1
  • sc in first sp
  •  *ch 5, sc in sp between clusters*
  • repeat from * to ** across to sp before last cluster
  • ch 5
  • sc in top of turning ch
  • turn

Stitches Count: 5 sc and ch-5 sp between sc 

 

Row 2

  • Continuing with Yarn 1, ch 3
  • *5 dc in 3rd ch of next ch-5 sp
  • repeat from * across
  • dc in beg sc from previous row
  • pull long loop of YARN 1 or place stitch holder in loop
  • do not turn

Stitches Count: 4 5-dc clusters and beg/end dc

 

Row 3

  • Pick up loop of Yarn 2
  • ch 1
  • sc in same sp
  • ch 6
  • skip ch 3 sp
  • sc in ch-5 sp
  • (ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp) twice
  • ch 6
  • skip next ch-3 sp
  • sc in sc-sp from last Yarn 2 row
  • turn

Stitches Count: 5 sc with ch-sp between

 

Row 4

  • Continuing with YARN 2- ch 3
  • sc in in top of beg dc from Row 2
  • ch 3
  • *picking up corresponding ch 5 from Row 3 AND middle dc sp from first cluster, sc in sp (pulling ch-5 up into point), ch 5**
  •  repeat from * to ** for all clusters
  • ch 3 sc in top of ending dc
  • pull long loop of YARN 2 or place stitch holder in loop

Stitches Count: 6 sc with ch between

 

Repeat rows 1-4 until all of Yarn 1 skein is done OR desired length is reached ending on row 4 regardless. Fasten off YARN 1 only. See Finishing section for options. 

Finishing

If an infinity scarf is desired, there’s 2 options with finishing. There can be an additional mesh section featuring ONLY YARN 2 or the scarf can be continuous with the reversible pattern (no gap between where YARN 1 is present). 

If an infinity scarf is NOT desired, you can fasten off YARN 1 and create a thicker border by crocheting more than 1 round of hdc. 

Alternatively, you can work the mesh pattern for the length desired on BOTH ends of the scarf (kind of like fringe) by continuing with the mesh pattern on the top of the scarf as described in the infinity scarf with mesh section and THEN working the mesh pattern off the bottom of the scarf (for symmetry).

Infinity Scarf finishing with NO MESH

If the mesh is NOT desired, row 4 will need to be redone to pick up the foundational ch spaces.

 

Row 4 FINISHING version

  • Ensure there is NO TWIST in the scarf (fold in half is the easiest way). 
  • Continuing with YARN 2- ch 3
  • pick up both the top of beg dc from Row 2 sp AND corresponding ch sp from foundational ch then sc with those two sp
  • ch 3
  • *picking up corresponding ch 5 from Row 3 AND middle dc sp from first cluster AND corresponding foundational row ch where cluster was placed in, sc in sp (pulling ch-5 up into point), ch 5**
  •  repeat from * to ** for all clusters
  • ch 3
  • pick up both the top of ending dc from Row 2 sp AND corresponding ch sp from foundational ch then sc with those two sp. 
  • Do not fasten off.

Stitches Count: 6 sc connecting top of work with base of work). 

Infinity Scarf finishing with MESH

If the mesh is DESIRED, a similar version of row 3 and 4 will be worked until desired length is reached (reserving some yarn for border)

Row 1

  • Continuing with YARN 2
  • ch 2
  • hdc in same sp
  • ch 6
  • skip ch 3 sp
  • hdc in ch-5 sp
  •  (ch 5, hdc in next ch-5 sp) twice
  • ch 6
  • skip next ch-3 sp
  • hdc in ending sp
  • turn

Stitches Count: 5 hdc with ch-sp between

 

Row 2

  • Continuing with YARN 2- ch 3
  • hdc in same sp
  • ch 3
  • (hdc in next ch-5 sp, ch 5) three times
  • ch 3
  • hdc in ending sp
  • turn

Stitches Count: 6 hdc with ch-sp between

 

Repeat Row 1-2 of mesh pattern until desired length is reached. Repeat Row 1 more time THEN: 

 

Finishing row

  • Ensure there is NO TWIST in the scarf (fold in half is the easiest way). 
  • Continuing with YARN 2- ch 1
  • pick up both the same sp in row just worked AND corresponding ch sp from foundational ch then sc with those two sp
  • ch 3
  • *picking up corresponding ch 5 from Row 3 AND corresponding foundational row ch where cluster was placed in, sc in sp, ch 5**
  • repeat from * to ** for all cluster spaces
  • ch 3
  • pick up both the ending sp AND corresponding ch sp from foundational ch then sc with those two sp.
  • Do not fasten off

Stitches Count: 6 sc connecting top of work with base of work

Border for Infinity Scarf

Regardless of how the infinity scarf is finished (mesh or no mesh), the border is worked the same way. 

Border: On both edges, ch 2 then work hdc in spaces around- 2-3 hdc for dc rows, 1-2 hdc for hdc rows, and 1 hdc for sc rows. The number is dependent on preference of the look. When reaching the beg of the starting point after working around, sl st to top of beg hdc and fasten off. 

Finishing Non-Infinity Scarf Version

To create a mesh edging off the bottom of the scarf, continue with mesh pattern as described above. THEN follow the below row pattern to get started with working the mesh pattern off the bottom of the scarf (bottom of the foundation ch/rows)

Beg row for mesh

  • With Yarn 1 side facing away from you, sl st into first sp of foundational ch
  • ch 2
  • hdc in same sp
  • ch 6
  • sk 2 foundation ch sp
  • *hdc in next ch (same sp as sc from YARN 2 foundational work), ch 5, sk 3 foundation ch sp**
  • repeat from * to ** for a total of 3 times
  • ch 6
  • hdc in last foundation ch sp
  • turn

Stitches Count: 5 hdc and ch sp in between

Work mesh rows 1-2 until desired length is reached. Do not fasten off and go right into border work. 

Non-infinity scarf border

Ch 2 then work hdc in spaces around- 2-3 hdc for dc rows, 1-2 hdc for hdc rows, and 1 hdc for sc rows as well as hdc for the same number of ch along top/bottom of scarf.  At corners, add ch 2 before working next side. The number is dependent on preference of the look. When reaching the beg of the starting point after working around, sl st to top of beg hdc and fasten off. 

Size Variations 

If a wider scarf is desired (this means it will be shorter): 

The beg chain is multiples of 4 plus 3. There should be 3 skipped ch between clusters and one skipped ch between the outside clusters and the beg/end dc. The pattern will be the same except extra repetitions will be added throughout. 

Pattern Declaimer

This is a paid pattern originally designed for a Yarn Bits Shop subscription box. 

You have permission to sell any item made from this pattern. However, you are not allowed to resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern or downloads in any printed or digital form (in full), or to claim the pattern as your own original design. If you want to sell or share a picture of your work from this pattern, please clearly credit the design to me: Lauren Samar of Yarn Bits Shop (with link to the website when applicable). 

Occasionally a mistake or typo falls through, please report them via email (help@yarnbitsshop.com) and the pattern will be updated accordingly.

Posted on

QP November 2020 – Stars and Corkscrews Tissue Box Cover

Stars and Corkscrews Tissue Box Cover

November 2020 QuickProjects

Designed by Lauren Samar for Yarn Bits Shop

Feel free to email for pattern help or questions: help@yarnbitsshop.com

Tissue Box Cover Pattern

Skill Level: Beginners

Hook: Size I

Gauge: N/A 

Yarn: Premier Yarns Everyday Anti-pilling (2 skeins/colors)

The first sections are single crochet (solid) bases. If the moss stitch with both colors are desired, read the 2nd section first. Image is just an example of one way to make it the base is the same but the decorations/amount of decorations can be different! 

Side Surface Pieces

Measure the surfaces of the tissue box you normally buy. For example- the one we normally use is a cube with each surface being 4.5×4.5 inches. The rectangular ones will have 2 different measurements for sides. Keeping the box nearby is helpful also! 

 

Working one side at a time, ch an odd number of stitches plus 1. The length of the ch should cover the width of one side of your box (for example, it was 19 ch for the 4.5×4.5 side and I started with 20 ch). It does not have to go over the sides since there will be a border round that will help fill in a bit of the surface at the end.

 

Foundation Row

  • sc in 2nd ch from hook
  • sc in each ch across
  • turn

Stitches Count: number of beg ch minus 1

 

Row 2

  • ch 1
  • sc in each sp across
  • turn

Stitches Count: SAME as foundation row


Repeat Row 2 until the square/rectangle covers the surface. 

 

NOTES

  • It is ok if it is a little bit smaller since there is a border round. If it’s too big, it won’t be snug against the box. 
  • Also, keep an eye on the edges- make sure they’re straight and that your tension is good throughout. 
  • If your work is warping a lot, you may need to adjust your foundation work- loosening or tightening your beginning chains. Or change hook size. 
  • The other common issue is your width of the chain may not actually cover the surface enough so you may need to add more chains. 

Border

  • ch 1
  • sc in each sp across to end of top side
  • ch 2 for corner
  • sc in each row down side
  • ch 2 for corner
  • sc in each bottom of beg ch sp across bottom
  • ch 2 for corner
  • sc in each row up side
  • ch 2 for last corner
  • sl st into first sc and fasten off. 

Stitches Count: Top and bottom should be the same number of stitches as the row stitches, sides should be the number of rows worked (if it took 20 rows prior to the border, there should be 20 stitches on the side). 

 

Repeat for all 4 sides of the tissue box (not top). 

 

NOTE- The number of ROWS worked for each piece should be the same for all pieces since the height is the same. 

Moss Stitch Alternative for SIDES only

The moss stitch is a straight forward stitch but here, we’re adding another color to make it more interesting. The second color is ONLY worked over and carried up the edges of the row. The beginning chain set-up is the same as above and an odd number of stitches is a must here. 

 

Foundation Row

  • Take second yarn color, make a loop and sl st into last ch with tail on outside and leading strand above next ch
  • With first color loop, sc in 2nd ch from hook working OVER color 2
  • sc in each ch across, carrying color 2 down the row and working OVER it 
  • turn
  • tug sides of piece to ensure the carried yarn is not pulling sides in too much

Stitches Count: number of beg ch minus 1

Row 2

  • With BOTH colors, ch 1
  • With only color 1, sc in each sp across, working OVER color 2
  • turn
  • tug sides of piece to ensure the carried yarn is not pulling sides in too much

Stitches Count: SAME as foundation row

Repeat Row 2 until the square/rectangle covers the surface. 

Fasten off color 2 and complete the border with ONLY color 1.

Top with tissue dispenser slot

You will be repeating the side surface pieces pattern until halfway, making a slit, then continuing with the second half. 

Repeat the set-up, foundation row, and row 2 of the above pattern. 

Repeat row 2 until you’re halfway through– this is easy if your top is the same size as one of the pieces already made- work half of the rows you did for that piece. 

Slit Row 1

  • determine how wide you want your slit to be (you can always test it out after the next 2 rows)
  • with the slit size in mind- determine the number of stitches on either side of the slit
  • ch 1
  • sc in next sp until slit begins
  • skip all spaces until other side of slit
  • ch number of spaces skipped
  • sc in each sp until end of row
  • turn

Stitches Count: total number of sc and ch are the same as the width of row, number of skipped stitches and number of chains for slit should be the same. 

Slit Row 2:

  • ch 1
  • sc in each sp and ch created across
  • turn

Stitches Count: same as row 2 pattern worked.

Test slit out on the tissue box and adjust as needed by undoing work and repeating with more/less spaces skipped for slit. 

Repeat row 2 until the top surface is covered. Compared to the same size side, the top should have only ONE extra row containing Slit Row 1. For example if the same size side piece had 20 rows, the top should have 21 rows (10 rows on either side of the slit). 

Repeat the border round and fasten off. 

Construction 

After all the pieces have been made (5 total), they can be joined together. The sides will be joined together first then the top will be added last. 

 

The side pieces will all be oriented in the same direction- the beginning foundation row work should be at the bottom of the box. This will keep the look uniform all around. 

Connect edges: 

  • With two neighboring pieces, line up the edges. 
  • With the same color yarn OR if you want to highlight corner crease- use other yarn color
  • make loop
  • sl st into BOTH corner sp at TOP (you’re working from top to bottom of cover)
  • *with next stitch lined up- pick up back loop of piece closer to you and front loop of piece further away from you, yarn over and pull through both loops (sl st with specific loops)
  • Repeat from * down edge
  • sl st into BOTH corner sp at BOTTOM
  • Fasten off

 

Repeat for all edges around, connecting each side in order. 

 

Connecting the top piece is slightly different due to the number of stitches on top/bottom vs sides may be different. Repeat the steps for connecting edges for top/bottom of top piece with corresponding edges since the stitches count will be the same. For connecting the SIDES of the top piece to the top of the side pieces, the number of stitches will most likely NOT match up. In this case, line up sides and use stitch markers to keep edges together. You will need to add extra sl st to some spaces on one piece since NOT all the spaces will line up one to one. 

Decorations for cover

After the cover base is done, the motifs to decorate the exterior of the cover can be completed. Below are two motif patterns- the corkscrew and the star motifs. The corkscrew motifs can be attached to the top edge and bottom edge all the way around give more texture.

Weave in all ends. 

Corkscrew Motif

To make 3D corkscrew motifs, 

  • ch desired length (2-3 less than height of box is a good starting point) plus 2
  • hdc in 2nd sp from hook
  • 2 more hdc in same sp
  • 3 hdc in each sp across
  • fasten off

To attach to the tissue box cover: tie or sew the top and bottom of motif (with twists as desired) to edges all around, adding as many as desired.

Star Motif

To start star motif, ch 2.

Round 1

  • 5 sc in 2nd ch from hook
  • join with sl st to first sc

Stitches Count: 5 sc

Round 2

  • ch 1
  • 3 sc in each sp around
  • join with sl st to first sc

Stitches Count: 15 sc

Round 3

  • ch 1
  • sc in first sp
  • *ch 6, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch, tr in next ch, tr around sc at base, sk next 2 sp**, sc in next sp, 
  • repeat from * ending last rep at **
  • join with sl st to beg sc
  • fasten off

Stitches Count: 5 peaks each with 1 sl st, 1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc, and 2 tr 

To attach to the tissue box cover: Sew star(s) onto cover as desired. 

Alternative Project ideas 

Mini basket– no slit in 5th piece (would be bottom here instead of top), may want to add another round to edges since they will be more visible. Edge round would just be sc in each sp around with sc2tog over corner sp to maintain corners. 

Wall Hanging with one piece base and stars/corkscrews motifs artistically placed.

Cozies– Cover a rectangular/straight edged basket, jar, etc with base work and motifs- base is very dependent on the shape of whatever is to be covered. 

Email Lauren for help with the pattern or if you want more ideas! 

Pattern Declaimer

This is a paid pattern originally designed for a Yarn Bits Shop subscription box. 

You have permission to sell any item made from this pattern. However, you are not allowed to resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern or downloads in any printed or digital form (in full), or to claim the pattern as your own original design. If you want to sell or share a picture of your work from this pattern, please clearly credit the design to me: Lauren Samar of Yarn Bits Shop (with link to the website when applicable). 

Occasionally a mistake or typo falls through, please report them via email (help@yarnbitsshop.com) and the pattern will be updated accordingly.

Posted on

QP May 2020 – Jellyfish or Squid Amigurumi

Jellyfish or Squid Amigurumi

May 2020 QuickProjects

Designed by Lauren Samar for Yarn Bits Shop

Feel free to email for pattern help or questions: help@yarnbitsshop.com

Amigurumi is a Japanese word that means “crochet or knitted stuffed toy”. It is very popular in the crochet world and people make all sorts of toys- from animals to dolls to various characters from movies and more! 

This pattern features two options: a squid or a jellyfish. The main difference between the two is the body shape. The squid is sleeker with a rounded fin at the top. The jellyfish is more spherical and wider. The curly tentacles are made (with variations offered) and are attached to the body’s base in the same way for both patterns. The ombré yarn makes for a visually appealing change as the body is worked as well as a variation of tentacle colors. Hopefully this is just the starting point for your journey into the wonderful world of amigurumi!

Jellyfish or Squid Amigurumi Pattern

Supplies: One skein of Hoooked Wavy Blend, Size G hook, needle, stuffing of choice

Skill: Easy

Gauge: 9 rows of 8 sc = 2 in x 2 in

Dimensions: Squid: 11.75 in circumference, 9 in tall (body only); Jellyfish: 19.5 in circumference, 6.5 in tall (body only); Tentacles add ~14 in to height

Abbreviated Stitches

inc = 2 sc in sp

inc2 = 3 sc in sp

dec = sc2tog over 2 sp (place hook in first sp, yo and draw loop through, place hook in next sp, yo and draw loop through, yo and pull through all 3 loops on hook)

Pattern Notes

The  patterns for the body of both the Jellyfish and Squid are read slightly differently to make it easier to track the rounds as well as the changing stitches. If the next part of the row is simply a number that means to crochet 1 sc in each of the next number of spaces. An example: Round 4 of the Jellyfish pattern is crocheted as: sc in next 2 sp, inc in next, sc in next 3 sp, inc in next sp… Another important note about  the patterns, the body is crocheted continuously to avoid creating a seam. There are no beginning ch or (at the end of the round) sl  st to first st. The center of the head should look like a spiral for both patterns.

The patterns themselves are spread out over the inside of the booklet as well as a separate sheet with the body pattern due to its length. See Color Notes to get started

Color Notes

Before starting the pattern, decide the color change gradient- both patterns are worked from top to bottom the way the color would change depends on whether you work the skein from center out or outside in.

After that is decided, decide if you want to use some of the color that you’re starting with for the tentacles. If you’re working from the center of the skein, making 1 or 2 legs before starting the body means you have those color tentacles prior to using up that shade in the body. Same is true for crocheting the base first. Also- using up some of the beginning color means that the color will change a bit quicker (especially with the squid pattern since it is long and uses less yarn therefore only may be 2 shades in the body total). It is only recommended to make 1-2 tentacles and maybe the base prior to making the body. After the body is made, the remaining yarn is used for the legs. The number of legs/length of legs is dependent on the amount of yarn left.

Jellyfish Amigurumi 

Body:

Make magic ring and crochet 5 sc in loop (Round 1). Place a stitch marker or piece of yarn through the last stitch to keep track of the last stitch in all rounds going forward. 

__Round 2:  inc, inc, inc, inc, inc2 [11 sts]

__Round 3:  inc, 1, inc, 1, inc, 1, inc, 1, inc, 1, inc [17 sts]

__Round 4:  2, inc, 3, inc, 2, inc, 3, inc, 2, inc [22 sts]

__Round 5:  inc, 2, inc, 3, inc, 3, inc, 2, inc, 3, inc, 3 [28 sts]

__Round 6:  1, inc, 4, inc, 5, inc, 5, inc, 4, inc, 4 [33 sts]

__Round 7:  4, inc, 5, inc, 6, inc, 6, inc, 5, inc, 2 [38 sts]

__Round 8:  6, inc, 6, inc, 7, inc, 7, inc, 6, inc, 1 [43 sts]

__Round 9:  1, inc, 8, inc, 7, inc, 8, inc, 8, inc, 6 [48 sts]

__Round 10:  inc, 11, inc, 11, inc, 11, inc, 11 [52 sts] 

__Round 11:  4, inc, 12, inc, 12, inc, 12, inc, 8 [56 sts]

__Round 12:  9, inc, 13, inc, 13, inc, 13, inc, 4 [60 sts] 

__Round 13:  inc, 14, inc, 14, inc, 14, inc, 14 [64 sts]

__Round 14:  13, inc, 20, inc, 20, inc, 8 [67 sts]

__Round 15:  22, inc, 21, inc, 21, inc [70 sts]

__Round 16:  11, inc, 23, inc, 22, inc, 11 [73 sts]

__Round 17:  29, inc, 36, inc, 6 [75 sts]

__Round 18:  11, inc, 36, inc, 26 [77 sts]

__Round 19:  10, inc, 66 [78 sts] 

__Round 20:  49, inc, 28 [79 sts] 

__Round 21:  9, inc, 69 [80 sts]

__Round 22:  80 [80 sts] 

__Round 23:  80 [80 sts] 

__Round 24:  49, dec, 29 [79 sts] 

__Round 25:  10, dec, 67 [78 sts] 

__Round 26:  48, dec, 28 [77 sts] 

__Round 27:  30, dec, 36, dec, 7 [75 sts]

__Round 28:  12, dec, 36, dec, 23 [73 sts] 

__Round 29:  1, dec, 22, dec, 23, dec, 21 [70 sts] 

__Round 30:  13, dec, 21, dec, 22, dec, 8 [67 sts] 

__Round 31:  4, dec, 20, dec, 20, dec, 17 [64 sts] 

__Round 32:  8, dec, 14, dec, 14, dec, 14, dec, 6 [60 sts] 

__Round 33: 60 [60 sts]

__Round 34: 60, sl st into next st to finish body. [60 sts] 

Skirt:

__Round 35: ch 3, in front loop only- 3 dc in each st around, sl st to first dc, fasten off and weave in end.  [180 dc] This round should be rippled. 

Finishing:

Make base and tentacles. Attach all tentacles to base. Stuff body with stuffing of choice. 

Using the tail from the base, line up the stitches from the base with the last round of the body interior. Sew lined up stitches together around. Tie off and weave in all ends. 

If desired, add eyes and/or a mouth with yarn, buttons, or safety eyes. 

Squid Amigurumi 

Rounded Fin: 

Make magic ring and crochet 6 sc in loop (Round 1). Place a stitch marker or piece of yarn through the last stitch to keep track of the last stitch in all rounds going forward. 

__Round 2: inc, 2, inc, 2 [8 sts]

__Round 3: inc, 3, inc, 3 [10 sts]

__Round 4: inc, 4, inc, 4 [12 sts]

__Round 5: inc, 5, inc, 5 [14 sts]

__Round 6: inc, 6, inc, 6 [16 sts]

__Round 7: inc, 7, inc, 7 [18 sts]

__Round 8: inc, 8, inc, 8 [20 sts]

__Round 9: inc, 9, inc, 9 [22 sts]

__Round 10: inc, 10, inc, 10 [24 sts]

__Round 11: inc, 11, inc, 11 [26 sts]

__Round 12: inc, 12, inc, 12 [28 sts]

__Round 13: inc, 13, inc, 13 [30 sts]

__Round 14: 30 [30 sts]

__Round 15: 30 [30 sts]

__Round 16: dec, 5, dec, 6, dec, 5, dec, 6 [26 sts]

__Round 17: dec, 4, dec, 5, dec, 4, dec, 5 [22 sts]

__Round 18: dec, 3, dec 4, dec, 3, dec, 4 [18 sts] 

__Round 19: 18 [18 sts]

__Round 20: 18 [18 sts]

Body:

__Round 21: inc, 2, inc, 2, inc, 2, inc, 2, inc, 2, inc, 2 [24 sts]

__Round 22: 3, inc, 3, inc, 3, inc, 3, inc, 3, inc, 3, inc [30 sts]

__Round 23: inc, 4, inc, 4, inc, 4, inc, 4, inc, 4, inc, 4 [36 sts] 

__Round 24: 36 [36 sts]

__Round 25: 5, inc, 5, inc, 5, inc, 5, inc, 5, inc, 5, inc [42 sts]

__Round 26: 42 [42 sts]

__Round 27: 42 [42 sts]

__Round 28: inc, 6, inc, 6, inc, 6, inc, 6, inc, 6, inc, 6 [48 sts] 

__Round 29-34: 48 [48 sts]

__Round 35: 7, dec, 14, dec, 14, dec, 7 [45 sts]

__Round 36: dec, 13, dec, 13, dec, 13 [42 sts]

__Round 37: 6 dec, 12, dec, 12, dec, 6 [39 sts]

__Round 38: dec, 11, dec, 11, dec, 11 [36 sts]

__Round 39-42: 36 [36 sts]

Crochet two more rounds in the same fashion as the last two rounds and cut a long tail of the yarn. These two rounds will be taken out and redone with the base- this is to preserve the same color yarn for the end of the body AFTER all the tentacles are made and attached to the base. 

Finishing: 

Make base and tentacles. Attach all tentacles to base. Stuff body with stuffing of choice. Take out Rounds 43 and 44. 

Round 43: line up base with stitches from Round 42, sc in each set of lined up sp (picking up one sp from body and 1 sp from base at the same time) around. Base is attached. [36 sts]

Round 44: 36 (1 sc in each sp around to beg) [36 sts]. Sl st into next st to smooth edge. Fasten off and weave in end

If desired, add eyes and/or a mouth with yarn, buttons, or safety eyes. 

Base Patterns

The base is where the tentacles are attached prior to the base being sewed or crocheted to the bottom of the body. Both patterns  are the same for Rounds 1-6 and the Jellyfish base needs an additional 4 rounds.

Make magic ring.

Round 1: ch 1, 6 sc in ring, sl st to first st [6 sts]

Round 2: ch 1, 2 sc in each sp around, sl st to first st [12 sts]

Round 3: ch 1, *2 sc in first sp, 1 sc in next sp**, repeat from * to ** around, sl st to first st [18 sts]

Round 4: ch 1, *2 sc in first sp, 1 sc in next 2 sp**, repeat from * to ** around, sl st to first st [24 sts]

Round 5: ch 1, *2 sc in first sp, 1 sc in next 3 sp**, repeat from * to ** around, sl st to first st [30 sts]

Round 6: ch 1, *2 sc in first sp, 1 sc in next 4 sp**, repeat from * to ** around, sl st to first st [36 sts]

For Jellyfish, continue with rounds 7-10.  For Squid, fasten off and weave in ends.

Base continued (Jellyfish only)

Round 7: ch 1, *2 sc in first sp, 1 sc in next 5 sp**, repeat from * to ** around, sl st to first st [42 sts]

Round 8: ch 1, *2 sc in first sp, 1 sc in next 6 sp**, repeat from * to ** around, sl st to first st [48 sts]

Round 9: ch 1, *2 sc in first sp, 1 sc in next 7 sp**, repeat from * to ** around, sl st to first st [54 sts]

Round 10: ch 1, *4 sc in first sp, 1 sc in next 8 sp**, repeat from * to ** around, sl st to first st [60 sts]

Fasten off with a long tail. This tail will be used to sew the base to the body.

Tentacles Pattern

The tentacles are made by chaining a length and crocheting multiple stitches into each sp across. The more stitches added to a space, the curlier. The taller the stitch (dc is taller then sc for example), the wider the tentacles. Different hook sizes may cause variations as well!

In the example image, all the legs were created with 3 hdc in each sp across for a looser curl.  Below is a template pattern for this design but feel free to experiment with lengths of the tentacles and tightness/width of the curls. For longer legs, ch more stitches. For a tighter curl, crochet more stitches in each sp. For a wider curl, replace hdc with dc across.

Pattern:

Leaving a tail that can be tied easily, ch 52  with the first ch a bit more loose. Hdc in 3rd sp from hook, 2 more hdc in same sp, 3 hdc in each sp across. Fasten off.

If the above pattern is followed, there is enough yarn for 8-10 legs. More or less legs may be desired! Start with a few  on the base and add more from there as desired. More yarn is used up with the jellyfish body so the length should be close to the above pattern. The squid would look nice with fewer but longer legs.

Attaching tentacles to base

The tentacles will have two tails on one end of the leg. Using these tails, place the  tentacles in desired position on right side of base and pull the tails through to the wrong side and double knot the tentacle in place. Repeat for all tentacles.

After the body is completed and all tentacles are attached to the base, the body can be stuffed then the base attached (see body pattern for instructions).

Pattern Declaimer

This is a paid pattern originally designed for a Yarn Bits Shop subscription box. 

You have permission to sell any item made from this pattern. However, you are not allowed to resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern or downloads in any printed or digital form (in full), or to claim the pattern as your own original design. If you want to sell or share a picture of your work from this pattern, please clearly credit the design to me: Lauren Samar of Yarn Bits Shop (with link to the website when applicable). 

Occasionally a mistake or typo falls through, please report them via email (help@yarnbitsshop.com) and the pattern will be updated accordingly.