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May 2022 CrochetMastery: Textured Sun Hat

Textured Sun Hat

May 2022 CrochetMastery

With summer rapidly approaching, a sun hat feature seemed fitting! The yarn is raffia material which is a natural fiber that is water resistant (not waterproof!) and it’s perfect for summer accessories. This pattern features popcorn stitches as well as clusters to make the fabric more dense for the hat!  Happy Crocheting! ~Lauren 

In this box, there are: 

  • Three Skeins Universal Yarns Yashi- $18  |  Three Skeins Universal Yarns Yashi Iro- $24
  • Handmade Rosewood Hook Size G- $8 
  • Handmade Stitch Markers- $8
  • Exclusive Pattern and Support- $10  |  Plus all Yarn Bits Shop Subscribers Perks! ($60+ Bimonthly Value!) 
Crochet Produce Bags

Overall Notes

Skill Level: Intermediate due to shaping

Gauge: First 3 rounds = 2.75 inches diameter. 3 sts = 1 inch 

Use size G hook. 

 

Sizing Notes: 

To get the circumference of the hat to be the correct size: 

  1. Take a measurement of the circumference of your head around your forehead and above ears (like where a sunhat would rest!)
  2. Round it to the nearest third of the inch roughly (because each 3 sts = ~1 inches for the pattern)
  3. Multiple the circumference by 3 and round it to the next EVEN whole number. That is the number of stitches you need to get to. If you measured loosely/comfortably- I would get to the closest even number. If you measured tightly, I would round up. 
  4. Use this number for Round 9 or 10 of the pattern. If your number is less than 63, adjust the number in Round 9 and do not do any increases in 10. If your number is 64 or greater, add extra stitches in Round 10 to reach that number. 

An Example: My measurement was 21.5 inches. I rounded it up to 21.6 and multiplied it by 3 to get 64.8. I rounded it to 66 for my hat. This is the number I got to in Round 10 of the Pattern. 

 

You may not use all the yarn in the box but an extra two skeins were included to cover all sizes and brim sizes desired! See Alternative Pattern ideas for ideas to use last bits of yarn up. 

Stitches Guide 

Yarn Over (yo); Space (sp); Stitch (st); Skip (sk); Loop (lp)

Chain (ch): with one lp on hook, yo and pull through the lp on hook

Slip Stitch (sl st): insert hook into target sp, yo and pull through sp AND lp on hook

Double Crochet (dc):  yo, insert hook into target sp, yo and pull through sp, (yo and pull through 2 lps on hook) twice

2 Half Double Crochet Cluster (2-hdc cluster): (yo, insert hook in sp, yo and pull through sp) twice, yo and pull through all loops on hook 

2 Double Crochet Cluster (2-dc cluster): (yo, insert hook in sp, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through 2 loops on hook) twice, yo and pull through all loops on hook 

Popcorn: 5 dc in one sp, drop loop from hook, insert hook in sp of first dc from front to back, pick up loop again, yo and pull through loops on hook.

Textured Sun Hat Pattern

Skill Level: Intermediate due to shaping

Gauge: First 3 rounds = 2.75 inches diameter. 3 sts = 1 inch 

Use size G hook

Top of Hat

With solid color, ch 3. 

Round 1: 2-hdc cluster 9 times in 3rd ch from hook, sl st to first cluster. [9 clusters]

Round 2: ch 2, 2 2-hdc cluster in first sp and each sp around, sl st to first cluster. [18 clusters]

Round 3: ch 2, (2–hdc cluster in next, 2 2-hdc cluster in next) around, sl st to first cluster. [27 clusters]

Round 4: ch 2, 2-hdc cluster in each sp around, sl st to first cluster. [27 clusters]

Round 5: ch 2, (2–hdc cluster in next 2, 2 2-hdc cluster in next) around, sl st to first cluster. [36 clusters]

Round 6: ch 2, (2 2-hdc cluster in next, 2–hdc cluster in next 3) around, sl st to first cluster. [45 clusters]

Round 7: ch 2, 2-hdc cluster in each sp around, sl st to first cluster. [45 clusters]

Round 8: ch 2, (2–hdc cluster in next 4, 2 2-hdc cluster in next) around, sl st to first cluster. [54 clusters]

 

Refer to sizing notes for what number of stitches you need to get to and increase as needed evenly in either round 9 or 10.

Round 9: ch 2, (2 2-hdc cluster in next, 2–hdc cluster in next 5) around, sl st to first cluster. [63 clusters]

Round 10: ch 2, 2-hdc cluster in each sp around (except for increases where needed), sl st to first cluster. [Even number of clusters]

Round 11: ch 2, 2-hdc cluster in each sp around, sl st to first cluster. [Even number of clusters/Same number of sps as previous round]

Fasten off solid color! 

Body of Hat

Round 12: sl st variegated yarn in any sp in round, ch 3, 2-dc cluster in same sp, (popcorn in next sp, 2-dc cluster in next) around to last sp, popcorn in next sp, sl st to top of first cluster. [Even number of clusters/Same number of sps as previous round]

Round 13: sl st to center of next popcorn, ch 3, 2-dc cluster in same sp, (popcorn in next cluster sp, 2-dc cluster in next popcorn center) around to last sp, popcorn in next sp, sl st to top of first cluster. [Even number of clusters/Same number of sps as previous round]

Repeat Round 13 three more times (Rounds 14-16). Check sizing here (even though it looks funny without brim!)- ensure it goes as far down as desired and is not too tight/loose. Fasten off variegated color! 

Brim of Hat- First Color

Round 17: sl st solid color in any dc-cluster sp, ch 2, 2-hdc cluster in same sp, 2-hdc cluster in each popcorn center and cluster sp around, sl st to first. 

In round 18- the number of sts need to be returned to a multiple of 9 with 72 being the target assuming the number was close to 63. If you made a smaller hat, 63 is the target. For example: If you’re at 62, add 10 sts in Round 18. If you’re at 66, add 6 sts in round 18.

Round 18: Working in front loop only- ch 2, (2 2-hdc cluster in next, 2–hdc cluster in next 6) around with any extra increases as needed, sl st to first cluster. [72 clusters]

 

Round 19: ch 2, (2–hdc cluster in next 7, 2 2-hdc cluster in next) around, sl st to first cluster. [81 clusters]

Round 20: ch 2, 2-hdc custer in next 5, (2 2-hdc cluster in next, 2–hdc cluster in next 8) around, sl st to first cluster. [90 clusters]

Round 21: ch 2, (2 2-hdc cluster in next, 2–hdc cluster in next 9) around, sl st to first cluster. [99 clusters]

Round 22: ch 2, 2-hdc cluster in next 6, (2 2-hdc cluster in next, 2–hdc cluster in next 10) around, sl st to first cluster. [108 clusters]

Round 23: ch 2, (2 2-hdc cluster in next, 2–hdc cluster in next 11) around, sl st to first cluster. [117 clusters]

Fasten off solid color. 

Brim of Hat- Second Color

Round 24: Working in back loop only- sl st variegated color in any sp, ch 2, 2-hdc cluster in next 7, (2 2-hdc cluster in next, 2–hdc cluster in next 12) around, sl st to first cluster. [126 clusters]

Round 25: ch 2, (2 2-hdc cluster in next, 2–hdc cluster in next 13) around, sl st to first cluster. [135 clusters]

Round 26: ch 2, 2-hdc in next 8, (2 2-hdc cluster in next, 2–hdc cluster in next 14) around, sl st to first cluster. [144 clusters]

Round 27: ch 2, (2 2-hdc cluster in next, 2–hdc cluster in next 15) around, sl st to first cluster. [153 clusters]

Round 28: ch 2, 2-hdc in next 9, (2 2-hdc cluster in next, 2–hdc cluster in next 16) around, sl st to first cluster. [162 clusters]

Fasten off solid color. 

 

Brim of Hat- Finishing

Round 29: Working in back loop only- sl st solid color in any sp, ch 2, (2 2-hdc cluster in next, 2–hdc cluster in next 17) around, sl st to first cluster. [171 clusters]

 

You can fasten off here if the brim size is what you like or you can continue with the pattern until the desired size is reached. The next 5 rows are given below- feel free to continue with color order or change it up for the edge! When changing colors, work that round in back loop only. 

 

Round 30: ch 2, 2-hdc in next 10, (2 2-hdc cluster in next, 2–hdc cluster in next 18) around, sl st to first cluster. [180 clusters]

Round 31: ch 2, (2 2-hdc cluster in next, 2–hdc cluster in next 19) around, sl st to first cluster. [189 clusters]

Round 32: ch 2, 2-hdc in next 11, (2 2-hdc cluster in next, 2–hdc cluster in next 20) around, sl st to first cluster. [197 clusters]

Round 31: ch 2, (2 2-hdc cluster in next, 2–hdc cluster in next 21) around, sl st to first cluster. [206 clusters]

Round 32: ch 2, 2-hdc in next 12, (2 2-hdc cluster in next, 2–hdc cluster in next 16) around, sl st to first cluster. [215 clusters]

 

Fasten off and weave in any ends. Starch hat if desired to have a stiff brim. 

Alternative patterns ideas with Raffia yarn: Basket, market bag, placemats/table runner

Pattern Declaimer

This is a paid pattern originally designed for a Yarn Bits Shop subscription box. 

You have permission to sell any item made from this pattern. However, you are not allowed to resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern or downloads in any printed or digital form (in full), or to claim the pattern as your own original design. If you want to sell or share a picture of your work from this pattern, please clearly credit the design to me: Lauren Samar of Yarn Bits Shop (with link to the website when applicable). 

Occasionally a mistake or typo falls through, please report them via email (help@yarnbitsshop.com) and the pattern will be updated accordingly.

 

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March 2022 CrochetMastery: Tunisian Crochet Cabled Pillow

Tunisian Crochet Cabled Pillow

March 2022 CrochetMastery

Skill Level: Easy | Hook: Size H or 5mm | Gauge: N/A | Dimensions: 22 inches around x 15.5 inches long

Tunisian Crochet has been featured in Yarn Bits Shop subscription boxes but this is the first time these particular tunisian stitches have been featured. The entire pattern is about cables! Cables are usually a knitting thing but it is very doable with tunisian crochet! Cables and the velvet yarn combination is perfect for throw pillows and while the pattern is short with two options, it is a fun addition to any armchair or couch! Happy Crocheting! ~Lauren

In this box, there are: 

  • Two Skein Bernat Velvet in one color- $24
  • Cabled Crochet Hook- $10
  • Cable Stitch Holder- $4
  • Handmade Stitch Markers- $8
  • Exclusive Pattern and Support- $10

Plus all Yarn Bits Shop Subscribers Perks! ($60+ Bimonthly Value!)

Overall Technique Notes

Skill Level: Intermediate-advanced

Tunisian crochet work is never turned and each row is worked in two parts: the forward and return pass. The forward pass picks up the stitches/loops onto the hook (hence why the hooks need to be longer) and the return pass works them off the hook. With this technique, the back of the fabric will look different than the front and curling is common (but can be tamed with blocking or a border). 

 

The foundation row is started the same way for any tunisian stitch. 

ch a number of stitches

Forward pass: roll chain forward slightly so the back bumps can be seen. Insert hook in 2nd ch back bump, yarn over,  and pull through (2 loops on hook). Repeat for each ch across. Work end st for last st.

Return pass: Yarn over, pull through first loop on hook (basically a ch 1, known as return ch), Yarn over and pull through two loops on hook, repeat across until there is one stitch left on the hook. This stitch is now the 1st stitch of the next row.

Always skip 1st vertical bar and always work end st at end of row- first and last stitches do not count in patterns

Stitches Guide 

Tunisian End Stitch:  Insert hook under the last vertical bar and the bar that lies directly behind it (2 bars on hook), yo and pull through loop. Yo and pull through one loop. 

Tunisian Purl Stitch (TPS): Forward- bring yarn forward to front of work, insert hook from right to left under next vertical bar, bring yarn across the front of vertical bar and to back of work, yo and pull up a loop. 

Tunisian Knit Stitch (TKS): Forward– insert hook from front to back between the front and back vertical bars of the next stitch, yo and pull up loop.

Tunisian 6 sts Cable: Tks 3, slip st just worked onto cable needle and keep at front of work, Tks 3, slip sts from cable needle back onto hook

Overall Pattern Notes

There are two main size options- two square pillows (~14×14 inches) or one rectangular pillow (~14x28inches). After deciding which is desired, you have two options for cabled designs- single cable or multiple cables. The technique is the same, just the number of cables is different! Below are your options:

Two square pillows with:

  • single cabled on both sides for both (both sides same)
  • multiple cables on both sides for both (both sides same)
  • one side has single cable and the other has multiple cables (sides are different)

One rectangular pillow with:

  • single OR multiple cabled long strip on both sides (both sides same)
  • single OR multiple cabled short strip on both sides (both sides same)
  • single OR multiple cabled short strip on one side and long strip on other side (sides are different in terms of orientation of cables only)
  • single/multiple cabled short strip on one side and single/multiple cabled long strip on other side (sides are different in terms of orientation AND number of cables)

 

If you’re not sure what you would like, it is suggested to start one side with either single or multiple cables and work until you make a square. After that you can decide to end there for two square pillows or continue for a long strip for a rectangular pillow. Note- I would not recommend the single cable for the rectangular pillows if working the long side, just because it’ll be a bit boring!  

 

Tips: DO not worry about gauge too much, just check as you’re doing the 2nd side that the measurements are the same. Keep tension loose enough for loops so it’s easy to pick up stitches. Lastly, work in good lighting! The velvet yarn is fuzzy and can be challenging. If you need to practice with regular yarn prior to tackling the velvet, that is perfectly fine!!

Single Cable Pattern- Square or Short Side of Rectangle

Row 1 (foundation row): Chain 42. Pick up a loop from back bump in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch to end, leaving all loops on hook. [42 loops on hook] Return.

Row 2: Tps 17, Tks 6, Tps 17, work end st. [42 loops on hook] Return. 

Row 3: Work as for Row 2.

Row 4: Tps 17, Tks 3, yo, Tks 3, Tps 17, work end st. [43 loops on hook]. Return 

Row 5: Tps 17, Tks 3, skip yo sp from previous row, Tks 3, Tps 17, work end st. [42 loops on hook] Return.

Row 6: Tps 17, Tunisian 6 sts Cable, Tps 17, work end st. [42 loops on hook] Return.

 

Rows 2-6 form pattern. Repeat for desired length then repeat rows 2-3 (should be ~14 inches for square or 28 inches for rectangle) and follow bind off steps. Fasten off and weave in ends. 

Single Cable Pattern- Long Side of Rectangle

Row 1 (foundation row): Chain 82. Pick up a loop from back bump in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch to end, leaving all loops on hook. [82 loops on hook] Return.

Row 2: Tps 37, Tks 6, Tps 37, work end st. [82 loops on hook] Return. 

Row 3: Work as for Row 2.

Row 4: Tps 37, Tks 3, yo, Tks 3, Tps 37, work end st. [83 loops on hook]. Return 

Row 5: Tps 37, Tks 3, skip yo sp from previous row, Tks 3, Tps 37, work end st. [82 loops on hook] Return.

Row 6: Tps 37, Tunisian 6 sts Cable, Tps 37, work end st. [82 loops on hook] Return.

 

Rows 2-6 form pattern. Repeat for desired length then repeat rows 2-3 (should be ~14 inches) and follow bind off steps. Fasten off and weave in ends. 

Multiple Cable Pattern- Square or Short Side of Rectangle

Row 1 (foundation row): Chain 42. Pick up a loop from back bump in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch to end, leaving all loops on hook. [42 loops on hook] Return.

Row 2: Tps 5, (Tks 6, Tps 6) two times, Tks 6, Tps 5, work end st. [42 loops on hook] Return.

Row 3: Work as for Row 2.

Row 4: Tps 5, (Tks 3, yo, Tks 3, Tps 6) two times, Tks 3, yo, Tks 3, Tps 5, work end st. [45 loops on hook]. Return.

Row 5: Tps 5, (Tks 3, skip yo sp from previous row, Tks 3, Tps 6) two times, Tks 3, skip yo sp from previous row, Tks 3, Tps 5, work end st. [42 loops on hook] Return.

Row 6: Tps 5, (Tunisian 6 sts Cable, Tps 6) two times, Tunisian 6 sts Cable, Tps 5, work end st. Return.

 

Rows 2-6 form pattern. Repeat for desired length then repeat rows 2-3 (should be ~14 for square and ~28 for rectangle) and follow bind off steps. Fasten off and weave in ends. 

Multiple Cable Pattern- Long side of Rectangle

Row 1 (foundation row): Chain 82. Pick up a loop from back bump in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch to end, leaving all loops on hook. [82 loops on hook] Return.

Row 2: Tps 7, (Tks 6, Tps 6) five times, Tks 6, Tps 7, work end st. [82 loops on hook] Return.

Row 3: Work as for Row 2.

Row 4: Tps 7, (Tks 3, yo, Tks 3, Tps 6) five times, Tks 3, yo, Tks 3, Tps 7, work end st. [88 loops on hook]. Return.

Row 5: Tps 7, (Tks 3, skip yo sp from previous row, Tks 3, Tps 6) five times, Tks 3, skip yo sp from previous row, Tks 3, Tps 7, work end st. [82 loops on hook] Return.

Row 6: Tps 7, (Tunisian 6 sts Cable, Tps 6) five times, Tunisian 6 sts Cable, Tps 7, work end st. Return.

 

Rows 2-6 form pattern. Repeat for desired length then repeat rows 2-3 (should be ~14 inches) and follow bind off steps. Fasten off and weave in ends. 

Finishing

Bind Off: 

  • Insert hook into the next stitch the same way as you were working the last row, yo, pull loop through BOTH loops on hook. 
  • Repeat across until you have one loop left. 
  • Cut yarn and pull through the end. Weave all ends in. 

 

Border:

The border is to mainly finish off the edges AND join the two sides together. This is worked in regular crochet. 

Round 1

  • Join to any corner of BOTH side (work in both sides corresponding sps here and on)
  • Ch 1, (sc, ch 2, sc) in same sp- corner made, sc in each sp across to next corner, (sc, ch 2, sc) in corner, 
  • continue around to last side, stuff the pillow with an insert or polyfill!
  • Continue to first corner, 
  • Sl st to first sc. Do not turn. Check for warping before continuing. 

Round 2

  • sl st to ch-2 sp of corner, 
  • (sc, ch 2, sc) in sp, sc in each sp across to next corner, (sc, ch 2, sc) in corner, 
  • continue around to first corner. Sl st to first sc. Do not turn. 

Alternative Pattern Ideas

The velvet yarn is not ideal for many items beyond decorative ones but below are two ideas if pillows are not desired!

Scarf– Work short side of single/multiple cables and continue until yarn is used up or desired length is reached! You can modify the width as well by reducing the number of sts on both side of the center 6 sts. 

 

Basket IMPORTANT NOTE: This needs a bit of craftiness! This can be a basket cover if you want to find a basket or additional support will be needed to keep the basket standing. 

  1. Make either single or multiple short side until desired circumference is reached (but don’t make it too big!). 
  2. Sew two ends together. 
  3. Make a circular base with regular crochet until it reaches the same diameter
  4. Attach base to one edge of the cable strip (can sl st around!). 
  5. Cover existing basket or add support. 

 

Blanket– More yarn will be needed but can follow the multiple cable pattern for a pretty design. Add multiple of 12 sts to increase width. 

Need help? Email help@yarnbitsshop.com with any questions 

Pattern Declaimer

This is a paid pattern originally designed for a Yarn Bits Shop subscription box. 

You have permission to sell any item made from this pattern. However, you are not allowed to resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern or downloads in any printed or digital form (in full), or to claim the pattern as your own original design. If you want to sell or share a picture of your work from this pattern, please clearly credit the design to me: Lauren Samar of Yarn Bits Shop (with link to the website when applicable). 

Occasionally a mistake or typo falls through, please report them via email (help@yarnbitsshop.com) and the pattern will be updated accordingly.

 

Posted on

January 2022 BlanketBox

Zig Zag Mosaic Crochet Blanket

January 2022 BlanketBox

 Mosaic Crochet is a technique of color work where you work pairs of rows and change colors at the end of each pair. You don’t carry your yarn and the base stitches are foundational stitches! Once you get the hang of the technique, it is a very relaxing project. Happy Crocheting! ~ Lauren

In this box, there is: 10 or 12 skeins of The Hook Nook Small Stuff in two colors – $80 or $96 Handmade Clay Resin 5mm Hook- $12 Prym Colorful Zipper Pouch- $15 Exclusive Pattern and Support- $10 Plus all Yarn Bits Shop Subscribers Perks!

Technique Notes

Mosaic Crochet is worked in pairs of rows, changing colors at the end of each pair of rows. This means the color change happens on one side of the work and is easily carried up that side (little ends to weave in!!). The color changes are made with combinations of chains from one color, skipping over a set of spaces, for two rows then with the second color, working in the skipped spaces from three rows below. This will become more clear with an actual pattern (below).

The stitches are generally single crochets and chains with a few special stitches:
Color Change (cc): Work up to the last single crochet in the row before the color change, insert hook in last sp, yo and pull through with old color, yo and pull through with new color to finish the stitch. This creates an invisible color change at the end of the row. When starting the next row, you are working as normal with the new color and leaving the old color at the end (not fastening off!).
Mosaic Double Crochet (MDC): This is worked like a normal double crochet but into the spaces that were skipped from three rows below. The working yarn color should be the same as three rows below typically. MDC is worked in front of the work and in front of the chains from the below two rows. The chains will be at the back of the work and loose.

 Other notes:

~ The number of spaces being skipped plus one is the number of chains needed to skip over that set of spaces. If you’re skipping 3 spaces, you need 4 chains. 

~ The first and last stitches of the row are never skipped to keep the straight edges. 

~ The pattern is given in written format as well as a color chart that is abbreviated since it is repeated across the row and across row sections. I found that once I understood the technique, the color chart was easier to follow than the written pattern.  

Skill Level: This pattern is considered Beginners Level for the technique. Please contact me at the email address at the end of this booklet if you would like a more difficult chart; however I will not be providing written patterns for any extra charts (but will help with any questions you have!). You can also create your own chart at StitchFiddle!! 

Gauge: 11 sts x 12 rows = ~2.5 inches by 2.5 inches

Dimensions: 10 skeins: ~35 inches by 48 inches with no border. 12 skeins: 40 inches by 50 inches with no border

Last note: Image on page 1 is NOT the full blanket. I made this sample so you can see both edges and how the overall pattern looks. 

Stitches/Abbreviation Guide:

Yarn Over (yo); Space (sp); Stitch (st); Skip (sk); Loop (lp)

Chain (ch): with one lp on hook, yo and pull through the lp on hook

Slip Stitch (sl st): insert hook into target sp, yo and pull through sp AND lp on hook

Single Crochet (sc): insert hook into target sp, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through both lps on hook

Written Pattern 

If your box has 10 skeins: With Color A, ch 156. 

If your box has 12 skeins: With Color A, ch 178. 

For a general reference- this pattern works for any multiple of 11 plus 2 chains. 

Row 1-2 // Pair 1 (Foundational)

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each sp across, turn 

Row 2: ch 1, sc in each sp across to last sp, cc to Color B in last sp, turn.

Row 3-6 // Pair 2-3

Row 3: With Color B, ch 1, sc in first sp, (ch 6, sk next 5 sp, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across to last sp, sc in last sp, turn. 

Row 4: ch 1, sc in each of first 7 sp, (ch 6, sk ch sp, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across to last ch sps, ch 6, sk last ch sp, cc in last sp, turn. 

Row 5: With Color A, ch 1, sc in first sp, (MDC in each of 5 skipped sp from 3 rows below, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across to last sp, sc in last sp, turn. 

Row 6: ch 1, sc in each sp across to last sp, cc in last sp, turn 

Row 7-10  // Pair 4-5

Row 7: With Color B, ch 1, sc in first sp and next, (ch 6, sk next 5 sp, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across, turn. 

Row 8: ch 1, sc in each of first 6 sp, (ch 6, sk ch sp, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across to last ch sps, ch 6, sk last ch sp, sc in next,  cc in last sp, turn. 

Row 9: With Color A, ch 1, sc in first sp and next, (MDC in each of 5 skipped sp from 3 rows below, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across, turn. 

Row 10: ch 1, sc in each sp across to last sp, cc in last sp, turn 

Row 11-14  // Pair 6-7

Row 11: With Color B, ch 1, sc in first sp and next 2, (ch 6, sk next 5 sp, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across to last 10 sp, ch 6, sk next 5 sp, sc in next 5 sp, turn. 

Row 12: ch 1, sc in each of first 5 sp, (ch 6, sk ch sp, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across to last ch sps, ch 6, sk last ch sp, sc in next 2, cc in last sp, turn. 

Row 13: With Color A, ch 1, sc in first sp and next 2, (MDC in each of 5 skipped sp from 3 rows below, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across to last 10 sps, MDC in each of 5 skipped sp below, sc in next 5, turn. 

Row 14: ch 1, sc in each sp across to last sp, cc in last sp, turn 

Row 15-18  // Pair 8-9

Row 15: With Color B, ch 1, sc in first sp and next 3, (ch 6, sk next 5 sp, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across to last 9 sp, ch 6, sk next 5 sp, sc in next 4 sp, turn. 

Row 16: ch 1, sc in each of first 4 sp, (ch 6, sk ch sp, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across to last ch sps, ch 6, sk last ch sp, sc in next 3, cc in last sp, turn. 

Row 17: With Color A, ch 1, sc in first sp and next 3, (MDC in each of 5 skipped sp from 3 rows below, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across to last 9 sps, MDC in each of 5 skipped sp below, sc in next 4, turn. 

Row 18: ch 1, sc in each sp across to last sp, cc in last sp, turn 

Row 19-22 // Pair 10-11

Row 19: With Color B, ch 1, sc in first sp and next 4, (ch 6, sk next 5 sp, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across to last 8 sp, ch 6, sk next 5 sp, sc in next 3 sp, turn. 

Row 20: ch 1, sc in each of first 3 sp, (ch 6, sk ch sp, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across to last ch sps, ch 6, sk last ch sp, sc in next 4, cc in last sp, turn.

Row 21: With Color A, ch 1, sc in first sp and next 4, (MDC in each of 5 skipped sp from 3 rows below, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across to last 8 sps, MDC in each of 5 skipped sp below, sc in next 3, turn. 

Row 22: ch 1, sc in each sp across to last sp, cc in last sp, turn 

Row 23-26 // Pair 12-13

Row 23: With Color B, ch 1, sc in first sp and next 5, (ch 6, sk next 5 sp, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across to last 7 sp, ch 6, sk next 5 sp, sc in next 2 sp, turn. 

Row 24: ch 1, sc in each of first 2 sp, (ch 6, sk ch sp, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across to last ch sps, ch 6, sk last ch sp, sc in next 5, cc in last sp, turn.

Row 25: With Color A, ch 1, sc in first sp and next 5, (MDC in each of 5 skipped sp from 3 rows below, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across to last 7 sps, MDC in each of 5 skipped sp below, sc in next 2, turn. 

Row 26: ch 1, sc in each sp across to last sp, cc in last sp, turn 

 

Row 27-30 // Pair 14-15

Row 27: With Color B, ch 1, sc in first sp and next 6, (ch 6, sk next 5 sp, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across to last 6 sp, ch 6, sk next 5 sp, sc in next 1 sp, turn. 

Row 28: ch 1, sc in each of first sp, (ch 6, sk ch sp, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across to last ch sps, ch 6, sk last ch sp, sc in next 6, cc in last sp, turn. 

Row 29: With Color A, ch 1, sc in first sp and next 6, (MDC in each of 5 skipped sp from 3 rows below, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across to last 6 sps, MDC in each of 5 skipped sp below, sc in last sp, turn.  

Row 30: ch 1, sc in each sp across to last sp, cc in last sp, turn 

Row 31-34 // Pair 16-17 

Row 31: With Color B, ch 1, sc in first sp and next 5, (ch 6, sk next 5 sp, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across to last 7 sp, ch 6, sk next 5 sp, sc in next 2 sp, turn. 

Row 32: ch 1, sc in each of first 2 sp, (ch 6, sk ch sp, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across to last ch sps, ch 6, sk last ch sp, sc in next 5, cc in last sp, turn.

Row 33: With Color A, ch 1, sc in first sp and next 5, (MDC in each of 5 skipped sp from 3 rows below, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across to last 7 sps, MDC in each of 5 skipped sp below, sc in next 2, turn. 

Row 34: ch 1, sc in each sp across to last sp, cc in last sp, turn 

Row 35-38 // Pair 18-19

Row 35: With Color B, ch 1, sc in first sp and next 4, (ch 6, sk next 5 sp, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across to last 8 sp, ch 6, sk next 5 sp, sc in next 3 sp, turn. 

Row 36: ch 1, sc in each of first 3 sp, (ch 6, sk ch sp, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across to last ch sps, ch 6, sk last ch sp, sc in next 4, cc in last sp, turn.

Row 37: With Color A, ch 1, sc in first sp and next 4, (MDC in each of 5 skipped sp from 3 rows below, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across to last 8 sps, MDC in each of 5 skipped sp below, sc in next 3, turn. 

Row 38: ch 1, sc in each sp across to last sp, cc in last sp, turn 

Row 39-42 // Pair 20-21  

Row 39: With Color B, ch 1, sc in first sp and next 3, (ch 6, sk next 5 sp, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across to last 9 sp, ch 6, sk next 5 sp, sc in next 4 sp, turn. 

Row 40: ch 1, sc in each of first 4 sp, (ch 6, sk ch sp, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across to last ch sps, ch 6, sk last ch sp, sc in next 3, cc in last sp, turn. 

Row 41: With Color A, ch 1, sc in first sp and next 3, (MDC in each of 5 skipped sp from 3 rows below, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across to last 9 sps, MDC in each of 5 skipped sp below, sc in next 4, turn. 

Row 42: ch 1, sc in each sp across to last sp, cc in last sp, turn 

Row 43-46 // Pair 22-23  

Row 43: With Color B, ch 1, sc in first sp and next 2, (ch 6, sk next 5 sp, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across to last 10 sp, ch 6, sk next 5 sp, sc in next 5 sp, turn. 

Row 44: ch 1, sc in each of first 5 sp, (ch 6, sk ch sp, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across to last ch sps, ch 6,  sk last ch sp, sc in next 2, cc in last sp, turn. 

Row 45: With Color A, ch 1, sc in first sp and next 2, (MDC in each of 5 skipped sp from 3 rows below, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across to last 10 sps, MDC in each of 5 skipped sp below, sc in next 5, turn. 

Row 46: ch 1, sc in each sp across to last sp, cc in last sp, turn 

Row 47-50 // Pair 24-25  

Row 47: With Color B, ch 1, sc in first sp and next, (ch 6, sk next 5 sp, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across, turn. 

Row 48: ch 1, sc in each of first 6 sp, (ch 6, sk ch sp, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across to last ch sps, ch 6, sk last ch sp, sc in next, cc in last sp, turn. 

Row 49: With Color A, ch 1, sc in first sp and next, (MDC in each of 5 skipped sp from 3 rows below, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across, turn. 

Row 50: ch 1, sc in each sp across to last sp, cc in last sp, turn 

Row 51-54 // Pair 26-27  

Row 51: With Color B, ch 1, sc in first sp, (ch 6, sk next 5 sp, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across to last sp, sc in last sp, turn. 

Row 52: ch 1, sc in each of first 7 sp, (ch 6, sk ch sp, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across to last ch sps, ch 6, sk last ch sp, cc in last sp, turn. 

Row 53: With Color A, ch 1, sc in first sp, (MDC in each of 5 skipped sp from 3 rows below, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across to last sp, sc in last sp, turn. 

Row 54: ch 1, sc in each sp across to last sp, cc in last sp, turn 

Row 55-58 // Pair 28-29   

Row 55: With Color B, ch 1, sc in first sp, ch 5, sk next 4 sp, sc in next 6, (ch 6, sk next 5 sp, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across to last 2 sp, ch 2, sk next sp, sc in next sp, turn. 

Row 56: ch 1, sc in first sp, ch 2, sk next sp, sc in next 6 sp, (ch 6, sk ch sp, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across to last ch sps, ch 5, sk last ch sp, cc in last sp, turn. 

Row 57: With Color A, ch 1, sc in first sp, MDC in each of 4 skipped sp from 3 rows below, sc in next 6, (MDC in each of 5 skipped sp from 3 rows below, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across to last 2 sp, MDC in next, sc in last sp, turn. 

Row 58: ch 1, sc in each sp across to last sp, cc in last sp, turn 

Row 59-62 // Pair 30-31   

Row 59: With Color B, ch 1, sc in first sp, ch 4, sk next 3 sp, sc in next 6, (ch 6, sk next 5 sp, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across to last 3 sp, ch 3, sk next 2 sp, sc in next sp, turn. 

Row 60: ch 1, sc in first sp, ch 3, sk next sp, sc in next 6 sp, (ch 6, sk ch sp, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across to last ch sps, ch 4, sk last ch sp, cc in last sp, turn. 

Row 61: With Color A, ch 1, sc in first sp, MDC in each of 3 skipped sp from 3 rows below, sc in next 6, (MDC in each of 5 skipped sp from 3 rows below, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across to last 3 sp, MDC in next 2, sc in last sp, turn. 

Row 62: ch 1, sc in each sp across to last sp, cc in last sp, turn 

Row 63-66 // Pair 32-33 

Row 63: With Color B, ch 1, sc in first sp, ch 3, sk next 2 sp, sc in next 6, (ch 6, sk next 5 sp, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across to last 4 sp, ch 4, sk next 3 sp, sc in next sp, turn.

Row 64: ch 1, sc in first sp, ch 4, sk next sp, sc in next 6 sp, (ch 6, sk ch sp, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across to last ch sps, ch 3, sk last ch sp, cc in last sp, turn.  

Row 65: With Color A, ch 1, sc in first sp, MDC in each of 2 skipped sp from 3 rows below, sc in next 6, (MDC in each of 5 skipped sp from 3 rows below, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across to last 4 sp, MDC in next 3, sc in last sp, turn.

Row 66: ch 1, sc in each sp across to last sp, cc in last sp, turn 

Row 67-70 // Pair 34-35 

Row 67: With Color B, ch 1, sc in first sp, ch 2, sk next sp, sc in next 6, (ch 6, sk next 5 sp, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across to last 5 sp, ch 5, sk next 4 sp, sc in next sp, turn.

Row 68: ch 1, sc in first sp, ch 5, sk next sp, sc in next 6 sp, (ch 6, sk ch sp, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across to last ch sps, ch 2, sk last ch sp, cc in last sp, turn.

Row 69: With Color A, ch 1, sc in first sp, MDC skipped sp from 3 rows below, sc in next 6, (MDC in each of 5 skipped sp from 3 rows below, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across to last 5 sp, MDC in next 4, sc in last sp, turn.

Row 70: ch 1, sc in each sp across to last sp, cc in last sp, turn

 

Row 71-74 // Pair 36-37 

Row 71: With Color B, ch 1, sc in first sp, sc in next 6, (ch 6, sk next 5 sp, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across to last 6 sp, ch 6, sk next 5 sp, sc in next sp, turn.

Row 72: ch 1, sc in first sp, (ch 6, sk ch sp, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across, cc in last sp, turn.

Row 73: With Color A, ch 1, sc in first sp and next 6, (MDC in each of 5 skipped sp from 3 rows below, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across to last 6 sp, MDC in next 5, sc in last sp, turn.

Row 74: ch 1, sc in each sp across to last sp, cc in last sp, turn

Row 75-78 // Pair 38-39  

Row 75: With Color B, ch 1, sc in first sp, ch 2, sk next sp, sc in next 6, (ch 6, sk next 5 sp, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across to last 5 sp, ch 5, sk next 4 sp, sc in next sp, turn.

Row 76: ch 1, sc in first sp, ch 5, sk next sp, sc in next 6 sp, (ch 6, sk ch sp, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across to last ch sps, ch 2, sk last ch sp, cc in last sp, turn. 

Row 77: With Color A, ch 1, sc in first sp, MDC skipped sp from 3 rows below, sc in next 6, (MDC in each of 5 skipped sp from 3 rows below, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across to last 5 sp, MDC in next 4, sc in last sp, turn.

Row 78: ch 1, sc in each sp across to last sp, cc in last sp, turn

Row 79-82 // Pair 40-41  

Row 79: With Color B, ch 1, sc in first sp, ch 3, sk next 2 sp, sc in next 6, (ch 6, sk next 5 sp, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across to last 4 sp, ch 4, sk next 3 sp, sc in next sp, turn.

Row 80: ch 1, sc in first sp, ch 4, sk next sp, sc in next 6 sp, (ch 6, sk ch sp, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across to last ch sps, ch 3, sk last ch sp, cc in last sp, turn.

Row 81: With Color A, ch 1, sc in first sp, MDC in each of 2 skipped sp from 3 rows below, sc in next 6, (MDC in each of 5 skipped sp from 3 rows below, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across to last 4 sp, MDC in next 3, sc in last sp, turn. 

Row 82: ch 1, sc in each sp across to last sp, cc in last sp, turn

Row 83-86 // Pair 42-43

Row 83: With Color B, ch 1, sc in first sp, ch 4, sk next 3 sp, sc in next 6, (ch 6, sk next 5 sp, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across to last 3 sp, ch 3, sk next 2 sp, sc in next sp, turn. 

Row 84: ch 1, sc in first sp, ch 3, sk next sp, sc in next 6 sp, (ch 6, sk ch sp, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across to last ch sps, ch 4, sk last ch sp, cc in last sp, turn.  

Row 85: With Color A, ch 1, sc in first sp, MDC in each of 3 skipped sp from 3 rows below, sc in next 6, (MDC in each of 5 skipped sp from 3 rows below, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across to last 3 sp, MDC in next 2, sc in last sp, turn. 

Row 86: ch 1, sc in each sp across to last sp, cc in last sp, turn

Row 87-90 // Pair 44-45 

Row 87: With Color B, ch 1, sc in first sp, ch 5, sk next 4 sp, sc in next 6, (ch 6, sk next 5 sp, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across to last 2 sp, ch 2, sk next sp, sc in next sp, turn.  

Row 88: ch 1, sc in first sp, ch 2, sk next sp, sc in next 6 sp, (ch 6, sk ch sp, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across to last ch sps, ch 5, sk last ch sp, cc in last sp, turn. 

Row 89: With Color A, ch 1, sc in first sp, MDC in each of 4 skipped sp from 3 rows below, sc in next 6, (MDC in each of 5 skipped sp from 3 rows below, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across to last 2 sp, MDC in next, sc in last sp, turn.

Row 90: ch 1, sc in each sp across to last sp, cc in last sp, turn

 

Row 91-94 // Pair 46-47  

Row 91: With Color B, ch 1, sc in first sp, (ch 6, sk next 5 sp, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across to last sp, sc in last sp, turn. 

Row 92: ch 1, sc in each of first 7 sp, (ch 6, sk ch sp, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across to last ch sps, ch 6, sk last ch sp, cc in last sp, turn. 

Row 93: With Color A, ch 1, sc in first sp, (MDC in each of 5 skipped sp from 3 rows below, sc in next 6 sp), repeat () across to last sp, sc in last sp, turn. 

Row 94: ch 1, sc in each sp across to last sp, cc in last sp, turn

Repeat Rows 7-94 or until run out of Color A yarn. Ensure you end with the Color A row with sc in each sp across (like row 94). 

Border

If desired and enough Color B yarn is remaining, create a border with 1 sc in each sp on top/bottom of work and 1 sc in each row (check for warping- if it warps, spread the sc sts out on the sides evenly) around with ch 2 at each corner. 

Round 2: ch 1, sc in each sp around with (sc, ch 2, sc) in each corner ch-2 sp. 

Repeat Round 2 until run out of Color B or until the border is as desired. Fasten off and weave in ends. 

Chart Pattern

To use the chart- The numbers on the top/bottom are the stitches across (abbreviated, not all repeats) and the numbers on the sides are the pair of rows from bottom to top.  First page is the full chart. The next 2 pages are ROTATED and enlarged but split with rows pairs 1-36 then 36-47. 

Pattern Declaimer

This is a paid pattern originally designed for a Yarn Bits Shop subscription box. 

You have permission to sell any item made from this pattern. However, you are not allowed to resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern or downloads in any printed or digital form (in full), or to claim the pattern as your own original design. If you want to sell or share a picture of your work from this pattern, please clearly credit the design to me: Lauren Samar of Yarn Bits Shop (with link to the website when applicable). 

Occasionally a mistake or typo falls through, please report them via email (help@yarnbitsshop.com) and the pattern will be updated accordingly.

 

Posted on

April 2021- BlanketBox 10: YoYo Hexagons with ZigZags

YoYo Hexagons with ZigZags

April 2021 BlanketBox

YoYo Crochet is a fun technique that creates joining “balls” by working the bottom half of the yoyo with the first round/row off the working chain then the second, top half of them on the other side of the working chain with the second round/row. It can be used to create different projects with rows or rounds. In this pattern, hexagons are created with rounds of yoyo, joined to create the center column, then rows are worked to create the zigzag rows off the column center. Since the hexagons are easily modified for other blankets, there’s notes at the end for joining hexagons for a full blanket of these fun YoYo hexagons!  

 

In this box, there is: 

  • 11 or 15 skeins of Bernat Baby Softee Cotton Yarn in four colors- $83 or $112
  • ChicGoo Crochet Hooks Size G – $4 OR Different skein if hook was not desired 
  • Ammee’s Babies TotoBag FiberShield Yarn Dispenser- $12 or $15 
  • Exclusive Pattern and Support- $10

Plus all Yarn Bits Shop Subscribers Perks!

Color and Size Blanket Notes

For the Throw Sized box (11 skeins) and Large Throw Sized box (15 skeins), the color notes are the same. Color A-C are the solid colors and the order of the solid colors is up to you since they’re the same amounts per skein. Color C only has one round in each hexagon and therefore the hexagons does not use a full skein like the other two colors will. The hexagons use up about the same amount of yarn of Color A and B. Lastly- Color D is the variegated yarn with one less skein available compared to each of the solid colors. 

 

For the sizing and design overview, the hexagons are created and joined together in a row to create the length. Then the ripple rows (zigzags) are added to either side of the hexagons to create width in rows. For the Throw Sized Box, there are 4 hexagons created (~58 inches long after joined) and for the Large Throw box, there are 5 hexagons created (~72 inches long). After the hexagons are joined, each set of rows (one row of the same color on either side of the hexagons strip) add about 3 inches of width and the zig zags are worked until there is not enough yarn left. At the end of the pattern booklet, there are notes for an alternative design of all hexagons with the same hexagon pattern and no zigzag rows. 

Stitches/Abbreviation Guide:

Yarn Over (yo); Space (sp); Stitch (st); Skip (sk); Loop (lp)

Chain (ch): with one lp on hook, yo and pull through the lp on hook

Slip Stitch (sl st): insert hook into target sp, yo and pull through sp AND lp on hook

Single Crochet (sc): insert hook into target sp, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through both lps on hook

Double Crochet (dc): yo, insert hook into target sp, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook two times

Small Shell (sm shell): 3 dc in same sp

Medium Shell (med shell): 9 dc in same sp

Large Shell (lg shell): 12 dc in same sp

Join: drop loop from hook, insert hook into sp indicated, pick up dropped loop and pull through

Valley Joining YoYo Shell

  1. 2 dc in next ch on working ch, 
  2. sk next 2 dc on same yoyo (from previous round), 
  3. join in next dc on same yoyo, 
  4. sm shell same sp as last dc on working ch, 
  5. join in 3rd dc on next yoyo from previous round (on other side of “valley” between yoyos), 
  6. 2 dc in same ch as last dc on working ch

Corner YoYo Shell

  1. 2 dc in next ch on working ch,
  2. Sk next 2 dc on same yoyo (from previous round, corner yoyos have 3 joining points)
  3. Join in next dc on same yoyo
  4. Sm shell in same sp as last dc on working ch

ZigZag Joining Shell: 

  1. 4 dc in next ch on working ch
  2. Join to 5th dc (center dc) of joining yoyo (on hexagon column or previous zigzag row)
  3. 4 dc in same sp as last dc on working ch

ZigZag Valley Joining Shell:

  1. 4 dc in next ch on working ch
  2. Join to 5th dc of first valley yoyo (on hexagon column or previous zigzag row)
  3. 3 dc in same sp as last dc on working ch
  4. For set-up row: Join to 5th dc to the left of next sc on second valley yoyo (on hexagon column) ensuring the number of dc skipped at center are the same on both joining yoyo. 
  5. OR For zigzag rows: skip center of previous row’s joining shell, Join to 5th dc to the left of next sc on second valley yoyo ensuring the number of dc skipped at center are the same on both joining yoyo. 
  6. 4 dc in same sp as last dc on working ch

ZigZag Peak Joining Shell:

  1. Complete ZigZag Joining Shell on first side of peak yoyo, joining to 5th dc on peak yoyo
  2. Sk next 2 sp on working ch, sc in next ch, sk next 2 sp
  3. 3 dc in next ch,
  4. Sk next 2 sp on working ch, sc in next ch, sk next 2 sp
  5. Skip 2 dc on peak yoyo and complete ZigZag Joining Shell on 2nd side of peak yoyo, joining to 5th dc to the left from next sc

Pattern Notes

Gauge Notes

Each yoyo is ~1.5 inches in diameter. 

Each hexagon prior to joining round is 11 inches from edge to opposite edge/13 inches from corner to opposite corner. 

Each ZigZag row set adds about 1.5 inches on either side of the column. 

 

Pattern is completed with size G Crochet Hook

 

For all working chains- keep tighter chains creates less of a gap at center of yoyos

 

YoYo Hexagon Prior to Joining

YoYo Hexagon Without Joining Rounds

Dimension of Hexagon: 11 inches from edge to opposite edge or 13 inches from corner to opposite corner

Make all hexagons needed for the blanket with the following pattern. Joining Round is in the next section for the first hexagon and following hexagons. 

Round 1: 
  • With Color A, ch 3 
  • 18 dc in 3rd ch from hook
  • Sl st to first dc, fasten off. 
Stitches Count: 18 dc // one yoyo completed

Round 2: 
  • With Color B, ch 36
  • 2 dc in 3rd ch from hook (first 2 ch count as dc)
  • Join to any dc from round 1, sm shell same sp as last dc (on working ch)
  • *Sk next 2 ch, sc in next, sk next 2 ch**
  • 2 dc in next sp, sk next 2 dc on round 1, join in next dc on round 1, sm shell in same sp as last dc (on working ch)
  • Repeat from * around, ending at **
  • Sl st to 2nd ch of beg ch
  • Do not turn 
Stitches Count: Bottom proportion of 6 yoyos, each with 5 dc and evenly spaced around Round 1 yoyo

Round 3: 
  • *Lg shell at center of yoyo (bottom of sm shell from previous round) 
  • sk next 2 ch, sc in next (same as previous round but other side of ch), sk next 2 ch
  • Repeat from * around to beg
  • Sl to first dc of first lg shell
  • Fasten off color B
Stitches Count: 6 yoyos completed, each with 17 dc around

Round 4:
    • With Color C, ch 72
    • 2 dc in 3rd ch from hook
    • Join to 6th sp to the left of any sc worked (sp left of center on yoyo) last round
    • Sm shell in same ch as last dc on working ch (first corner completed)
    • *[Sk next 2 ch, sc in next, sk next 2 ch]
    • Valley Joining YoYo Shell** (see stitches guide)
    • Repeat []
  • Corner YoYo Shell (see stitches guide)
  • Repeat from * around, ending on **
  • Sk next 2 ch, sc in last ch
  • Sl st to top of beg ch
  • Do not turn 
Stitches Count: 6 corner yoyo shell, 6 valley joining yoyo 

Round 5: 
  • *Med shell at center of yoyo (bottom of valley joining shell from previous round) 
  • sk next 2 ch, sc in next (same as previous round but other side of ch), sk next 2 ch
  • Lg shell at center of yoyo (bottom of corner corner shell from previous round)**
  • sk next 2 ch, sc in next (same as previous round but other side of ch), sk next 2 ch
  • Repeat from * around, ending at **
  • Sl to first dc of first shell
  • Fasten off color C
Stitches Count: 12 yoyos completed, each with 16 dc for edge yoyos and 17 dc for corner yoyos

Round 6:
    • With Color B, ch 108
    • 2 dc in 3rd ch from hook
    • Join to 6th sp to the left of sc on any corner yoyo from previous round
    • Sm shell in same ch as last dc on working ch (first corner completed)
    • *[Sk next 2 ch, sc in next, sk next 2 ch]
    • Valley Joining YoYo Shell** (see stitches guide)
    • Repeat [], Repeat Valley Joining YoYo Shell, Repeat []
  • Corner YoYo Shell (see stitches guide)
  • Repeat from * around, ending on **
  • Sk next 2 ch, sc in last ch
  • Sl st to top of beg ch
  • Do not turn 
Stitches Count: 6 corner yoyo shell, 12 valley joining yoyo 

Round 7: 
  • *Med shell at center of yoyo (bottom of valley joining shell from previous round) 
  • [sk next 2 ch, sc in next (same as previous round but other side of ch), sk next 2 ch]
  • Med shell at center of yoyo, Repeat []
  • Lg shell at center of yoyo (bottom of corner corner shell from previous round)**
  • Repeat []
  • Repeat from * around, ending at **
  • Sl to first dc of first shell
  • Fasten off color 
Stitches Count: 18 yoyos completed, each with 16 dc for edge yoyos and 17 dc for corner yoyos

Round 8:
    • With Color A, ch 144
    • 2 dc in 3rd ch from hook
    • Join to 6th sp to the left of sc on any corner yoyo from previous round
    • Sm shell in same ch as last dc on working ch (first corner completed)
    • *[Sk next 2 ch, sc in next, sk next 2 ch]
    • Valley Joining YoYo Shell** (see stitches guide)
    • Repeat {Repeat [], Repeat Valley Joining YoYo Shell} two times then Repeat [] 
  • Corner YoYo Shell (see stitches guide)
  • Repeat from * around, ending on **
  • Sk next 2 ch, sc in last ch
  • Sl st to top of beg ch
  • Do not turn 
Stitches Count: 6 corner yoyo shell, 18 valley joining yoyo 

Round 9: 
  • *Med shell at center of yoyo (bottom of valley joining shell from previous round) 
  • [sk next 2 ch, sc in next (same as previous round but other side of ch), sk next 2 ch]
  • Repeat {Med shell at center of yoyo, Repeat []} two times
  • Lg shell at center of yoyo (bottom of corner corner shell from previous round)**
  • Repeat []
  • Repeat from * around, ending at **
  • Sl to first dc of first shell
  • Fasten off color 
Stitches Count: 24 yoyos completed, each with 16 dc for edge yoyos and 17 dc for corner yoyos

YoYo Hexagon Joining Rounds

For first hexagon only:  

Round 10:

    • With Color D, ch 180
    • 2 dc in 3rd ch from hook
    • Join to 6th sp to the left of sc on any corner yoyo from previous round
    • Sm shell in same ch as last dc on working ch (first corner completed)
    • *[Sk next 2 ch, sc in next, sk next 2 ch]
    • Valley Joining YoYo Shell** (see stitches guide)
    • Repeat {Repeat [], Repeat Valley Joining YoYo Shell} three times then Repeat [] 
  • Corner YoYo Shell (see stitches guide)
  • Repeat from * around, ending on **
  • Sk next 2 ch, sc in last ch
  • Sl st to top of beg ch
  • Do not turn 

Stitches Count: 6 corner yoyo shell, 24 valley joining yoyo 

 

Round 11:

  • *Med shell at center of yoyo (bottom of valley joining shell from previous round) 
  • [sk next 2 ch, sc in next (same as previous round but other side of ch), sk next 2 ch]
  • Repeat {Med shell at center of yoyo, Repeat []} three times
  • Lg shell at center of yoyo (bottom of corner corner shell from previous round)**
  • Repeat []
  • Repeat from * around, ending at **
  • Sl to first dc of first shell
  • Fasten off color 

Stitches Count: 30 yoyos completed, each with 16 dc for edge yoyos and 17 dc for corner yoyos

 

After the first hexagon has Round 10 and 11 completed, the next hexagon can be joined to the first hexagon. 

 

For the second hexagon and on, the hexagons are being connected in a column by working the “top” of the hexagon to the bottom (opposite side) of the last one. 

Round 10: SAME as above

Round 11 (Joining Round):

  • *Med shell at center of yoyo (bottom of valley joining shell from previous round) 
  • [sk next 2 ch, sc in next (same as previous round but other side of ch), sk next 2 ch]
  • Repeat {Med shell at center of yoyo, Repeat []} three times
  • Lg shell at center of yoyo (bottom of corner corner shell from previous round)**
  • Repeat []
  • Repeat from * through 3 edges and 2 corners, stopping at 3rd corner.
  • In the 3rd corner: 7 dc at center of yoyo, join to 7th dc on corresponding corner of hexagon being joined to this one (7 dc “exposed” on side for BOTH hexagons), 5 dc in same sp on working hexagon
  • For each of edge yoyo: 4 dc at center of yoyo, join to 5th dc of corresponding edge yoyo on joining hexagon, 4 dc at center of yoyo. 
  • In 4th corner: 5 dc at center of yoyo, join to 5th dc on corresponding corner of joining hexagon, 7 dc in same sp on working hexagon
  • Repeat from * around, ending at **
  • Sl to first dc of first shell
  • Fasten off color 

Stitches Count: 30 yoyos completed with two corners and the edge in between connected to a hexagon. 

YoYo ZigZag Rows

After the hexagons are joined in a column, the zigzag rows are added to either side of the column to add width. It is recommended to work the next color choice on BOTH sides of the column prior to moving to the next color/row on one side to ensure the symmetry and the usage of the yarn evenly. This is more necessary when on the last skein of yarn for each color. 

Set-up Row 1:

  • With color of choice, ch 294 for 4 hexagon columns or 366 for 5 hexagon columns
  • 4 dc in 3rd ch from hook
  • Join to 5th dc from the left of next sc on corner yoyo at top/bottom of hexagon column on one side
  • 4 dc in same sp as last dc on working ch
  • [sk next 2 ch, sc in next, sk next 2 ch]
  • Complete ZigZag Joining Shell 4 more times to peak yoyo with [] after each
  • *Complete ZigZag Peak Joining Shell at peak, Repeat []
  • Complete ZigZag Joining Shell 5 times to valley with [] after each**
  • Complete ZigZag Valley Joining Shell with 2 skipped dc on both valley yoyos, Repeat []
    • NOTE: This is the main difference between the set-up row and the following zigzag row 1. For set-up row, the center of the valley is the joining of the two hexagons and the join is worked on both. For the following rows, the center is skipped and the join is worked on the previous round’s Joining Shells only (skip all dcs from Valley Joining Shell). 
  • Complete ZigZag Joining Shell 5 times to peak yoyo with [] after each
  • Repeat from * across one column side, ending at ** at corner of hexagon with sl st in last ch on working ch
  • Do not turn

Stitches Count: 49 bottom proportion of yoyos for 4 hexagon columns, 61 for 5 hexagon columns

 

ZigZag Row 2: 

  • Sk 2 ch on working ch 
  • Working across row with [sk next 2 ch, sc in next (same as previous round but other side of ch), sk next 2 ch] between each center
    • Work Med shell at center of yoyo for sides
    • Work lg shell at peaks yoyo centers
    • Work sm shell at valley yoyo centers
  • Sl st to top of beg ch from previous round, fasten off

Stitches Count: 49 completed yoyos for 4 hexagon columns, 61 for 5 hexagon columns

 

Continue adding rows on either side of the column with ZigZag Row 1 (below) and Row 2 (above) in color order desired until there is no yarn left. 

Extra Notes for All Hexagon Blankets

The YoYo Hexagon without Joining Round section pattern is the same for all Hexagons with this technique. So if desired, you can make hexagon motifs and join them to make full hexagon blankets. The size of the hexagon is easily modified by removing or adding rounds in sets of two. The beginning chain is always 36 more chains than the previous round’s beginning chain and the main difference between sets of rounds is the number of  Valley Joining YoYo Shell completed per side of the hexagon. 

When working a full hexagon blanket, the joining round in this pattern is good for joining top to bottom of hexagons but if making a full blanket of hexagons is desired, joining a corner to two-already-joined-corner is another consideration. For corners- the total dc is always 12. 

For those joins, complete (at corner): 5 dc, join to 5th dc of corresponding yoyo on first hexagon to be joined, 2 dc in same sp as last dc (center of yoyo), sk next 2 dc on next hexagon corner to be joined, join in next dc, 5 dc

For pattern help, please email help@yarnbitsshop.com or post in Subscribers Only Facebook Group!

Pattern Declaimer

This is a paid pattern originally designed for a Yarn Bits Shop subscription box. 

You have permission to sell any item made from this pattern. However, you are not allowed to resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern or downloads in any printed or digital form (in full), or to claim the pattern as your own original design. If you want to sell or share a picture of your work from this pattern, please clearly credit the design to me: Lauren Samar of Yarn Bits Shop (with link to the website when applicable). 

Occasionally a mistake or typo falls through, please report them via email (help@yarnbitsshop.com) and the pattern will be updated accordingly.

 

Posted on

September CM 2021: Crazy Crew Shawl

Crazy Crew Shawl

Everyone needs a good Crew!

September 2021 CrochetMastery

by Crystal’s Critter Creations on 09 June 2021

Go on a crazy journey with me! This was designed using a crew of different stitches that come together in the end to create a glorious shawl. I truly hope you enjoy the time you’ll take to work this up as I did creating this beauty.

Pattern Skill Level: Advanced/Mastery Level

US Terms

You Will Need

5 mm/ H Hook

Light DK/DK Weight Yarn – Approx. 700yds

*Optional-Blocking Boards & Pins for blocking

Stitches to Know

SC – Single Crochet

Inc – Single Crochet Increase

HDC – Half Double Crochet

HDCinc – Half Double Crochet Increase 

DC- Double Crochet

TR – Treble/Triple Crochet

BLO – Back Loop Only

Front 3rd loop – The “extra” loop created when using HDC

FPDC/BPDC – Front Post/Back Post Double Crochet

FPTR/BPTR – Front Post/Back Post Treble/Triple Crochet

SkSt- Skip Stitch

Ch- Chain

YO- Yarn Over

*Ch. 2 COUNTS as a stitch, Ch. 1 does NOT

*Turn at end of every Row

*You will be increasing on only one side for the entire pattern.

1. Ch. 3, DC 2 into 1st chain. (3DC)

2. Ch. 2, DC in same st. DC 2 (4DC)

3. Ch. 1, HDC across. 2 HDC in last St. (5HDC)

4. Ch. 1, In Front 3rd Loop, HDCinc, HDC across. (6 HDC)

5. Ch. 1, BLO HDC across, HDC inc in last st. ( 7 HDC)

6. Ch. 1, In Front 3rd Loop, HDCinc, HDC across. (8 HDC)

7. Ch. 2, DC across. DCinc last St. (9 DC)

Puff Stitch Section

 Puff Stitch: (YO and pull up a loop) x4, YO and pull through all loops on hook. Ch. 1 to finish. Ch.1 off Puff does NOT Count as a ch space.

8. Ch. 3 Counts as DC+ Ch. and DC same St. *Ch. 1, skst, DC* Repeat from * to * across to end. (6 DC, 5 chs)

9. Ch. 3, *Puff in next DC, Ch.1 * Repeat From * to * across. Puff, Ch. 1, DC all in last st. ( 5 Puff, 6 chs, 2 DC)

10. Ch. 3, DC same St. Ch. 1 *Puff in Ch Space, ch. 1* Repeat from * to * across. DC in last St. ( 6 Puff, 8 chs, 3 DC)

11. Ch. 2, *Puff in ch sp, Ch. 1* Repeat from * to * across. DC Ch. 1 DC in last st. (8 puff, 9ch, 3 DC)

12. Ch.3 and DC same st, Ch. 1, DC into next DC, ch. 1 *DC into puff, Ch. 1* Repeat from * to * across. DC in last st. (12 DC, 11 chs)

13. Ch.1, HDC across into each st and ch space. HDCinc in last St. (24 HDC)

14. Ch. 1, In Front 3rd Loop, HDCinc, HDC across. (25 HDC)

15. Ch. 1, BLO HDC across, HDC inc in last st. (26 HDC)

16. Ch. 1, In Front 3rd Loop, HDCinc, HDC across. leaving remaining 2 Sts unworked. (25 HDC) 

Trinity Stitch Section

Trinity stitch: 1. Sc3Tog starting in the same stitch and across next 2 Sts, Ch.1. You will work into the Ch space for all subsequent rows of this section.

17. Ch. 1, SC. Trinity stitch across. In last st, Inc.

 18. Ch.1, Inc, Trinity stitch across. Do not Ch. after last Sc3Tog, Place a sc in last St.

Repeat Rows 17-18 to row 28.

29. Ch.1, HDC across into each st and ch space. HDCinc in last St. (37 HDC)

30. Ch. 1, In Front 3rd Loop, HDCinc, HDC across (38 HDC)

31. Ch. 1, BLO HDC across, HDC inc in last st (39 HDC)

32. Ch. 1, In Front 3rd Loop, HDCinc, HDC across. leaving remaining 2 Sts unworked (38 HDC)

Celtic Weave Section

 33. Ch. 2, *Sk2 Sts, TR in next 2 Sts. Then work next TR into each of the previously skipped Sts.* Repeat from * to * across, TR and DC into last st.

34. Ch.2, and TR into same St. BPTR around next St. BPTR around the next 2 Hidden Sts. Sk2 Sts, *BPTR around next 2 Hidden Sts. Going behind the previously made Sts. BPTR around each of the previous 2 skipped sts.* Repeat from * to * across. BPTR 2, DC in last St. 

35. Ch.2, Sk 2 sts, FPTR around each of next 2 BPTR of previous row. FPTR around Skipped Sts from previous row. *Sk 2 Sts. FPTR around next 2 Sts. Then FPTR around each of the previously 2 skipped Sts* Repeat from * to * across. FPTR 2, placing TR and DC into last st.

36. Ch.2, and TR into same St. BPTR around next st. *Sk2Sts, BPTR around next 2 Hidden Sts. Going behind the previously made Sts. BPTR around each of the previous 2 skipped sts.* Repeat from * to * across. BPTR 2, DC in last St.

37. Ch.2, Sk 2 sts, FPTR around each of next 2 BPTR of previous row. FPTR around Skipped Sts from previous row. *Sk 2 Sts. FPTR around next 2 Sts. Then FPTR around each of the previously 2 skipped Sts* Repeat from * to * across. Placing TR and DC into last st

38. Repeat Row 34

39. Repeat Row 35

40. Repeat Row 36

41. Repeat Row 37

42. Repeat Row 34

43. Ch.1, HDC across into each st and ch space. HDCinc in last St. (48)

44. Ch. 1, In Front 3rd Loop, HDCinc, HDC across (49)

45. Ch. 1, BLO HDC across, HDC inc in last st (50)

46. Ch. 1, In Front 3rd Loop, HDCinc, HDC across. leaving remaining 2 Sts unworked (49)

Diagonal Shell Section

 47. Ch. 1, Sc and Ch. 2. 4DC into same St as Sc. *Sk3Sts, Sc and Ch. 2. 4DC into same St as Sc* Repeat from * to * across. In last st Sc and Ch. 2. 4DC into same St as Sc.

48. Ch. 1, Sc and Ch. 2. 4DC into same St as Sc. *Sc in ch of previous row, Ch. 2. 4DC into same Space as Sc* Repeat from * to * across. Sc into top of ch. 2 from previous row. 

49. Ch. 1, Sc and Ch. 2. 4DC into same St as Sc. *Sc in ch of previous row, Ch. 2. 4DC into same Space as Sc* Repeat from * to * across. In last st Sc and Ch. 2. 4DC into same St as Sc.

50. Repeat Row 48

51. Repeat Row 49

52. Repeat Row 48

53. Repeat Row 49

54. Repeat Row 48

55. Repeat Row 49

56. Repeat Row 48

57. Ch. 1, HDC. HDC across into each DC of previous row, Skipping the Sc’s. HDCinc into last st. (69)

58. Ch. 1, In Front 3rd Loop, HDCinc, HDC across (70)

59. Ch. 1, BLO HDC across, HDC inc in last st (71)

60. Ch. 1, In Front 3rd Loop, HDCinc, HDC across. leaving remaining 2 Sts unworked. (70)

Diagonal Stripes Section

61. Ch. 1, HDC. *FPDC 3, BPDC3* Repeat from * to * across. DC & HDC into last st.

From here, with each new row your post Stitches will shift by 1. This creates the diagonal look and will be more apparent as you continue to work this section.

 62. Ch. 1, HDC & DC in same st. *FPDC 3, BPDC 3* Repeat from * to * across. FPDC, HDC in last St.

63. Ch. 1, HDC. BPDC 2. *FPDC 3, BPDC 3* Repeat from * to * across. DC & HDC into last st.

64. Ch. 1, HDC & DC in same st. *FPDC 3, BPDC 3* Repeat from * to * across. FPDC 3, HDC into last st.

65. Ch. 1, HDC. FPDC, BPDC 3. *FPDC 3, BPDC3* Repeat from * to * across. DC & HDC into last st.

66. Ch. 1, HDC & DC in same st.. *FPDC 3, BPDC3* Repeat from * to * across. BPDC 2, HDC in last St.

67. Repeat Row 61

68. Repeat Row 62

69. Repeat Row 63

70. Repeat Row 64

71. Ch.1, HDC across into each st. HDCinc in last St. (81)

72. Ch. 1, In Front 3rd Loop, HDCinc, HDC across (82)

73. Ch. 1, BLO HDC across, HDC inc in last st (83)

74. Ch. 1, In Front 3rd Loop, HDCinc, HDC across. leaving remaining 2 Sts unworked (82)

Harringbone Section

 Herringbone Stitch: YO and pull up a loop and draw through One. YO and draw through One again. YO draw through both remaining loops.

75. Ch. 2, Herringbone across to end. Place 2 into the last st. 

76. Ch. 2, and Herringbone into same St and across. 

77. Repeat Row 75

78. Repeat Row 76

79. Repeat Row 75

80. Repeat Row 76

81. Repeat Row 75

82. Repeat Row 76

83. Repeat Row 75

84. Repeat Row 76

85. Ch.1, HDC across into each st. HDCinc in last St. (93)

86. Ch. 1, In Front 3rd Loop, HDCinc, HDC across (94)

87. Ch. 1, BLO HDC across, HDC inc in last st (95)

88. Ch. 1, In Front 3rd Loop, HDCinc, HDC across, leaving remaining 2 Sts unworked (94)

Celtic Weave Section

 89. Ch. 2, *Sk2 Sts, TR in next 2 Sts. Then work next TR into each of the previously skipped Sts.* Repeat from * to * across, TR 2, TR and DC into last st. 

90. Ch.2, and TR into same St. BPTR around next St. *BPTR around next 2 Hidden Sts. Going between the previously made Sts. BPTR around each of the previous 2 skipped sts.* Repeat from * to * across. BPTR 2, DC in last St. 

91. Ch.2, Sk 2 sts, FPTR around each of next 2 BPTR of previous row. FPTR around Skipped Sts from previous row. *Sk 2 Sts. FPTR around next 2 Sts. Then FPTR around each of the previously 2 skipped Sts* Repeat from * to * across, place TR and DC into last st.

92. Ch.2, and TR into same St. BPTR around next st. BPTR around the next 2 Hidden Sts. *Sk2Sts, BPTR around next 2 Hidden Sts. Going between the previously made Sts. BPTR around each of the previous 2 skipped sts.* Repeat from * to * across. BPTR 2, DC in last St.

93. Ch.2, Sk 2 sts, FPTR around each of next 2 BPTR of previous row. FPTR around Skipped Sts from previous row. *Sk 2 Sts. FPTR around next 2 Sts. Then FPTR around each of the previously 2 skipped Sts* Repeat from * to * across. FPTR 2, Place TR and DC into last st

94. Repeat Row 90

95. Repeat Row 91

96. Repeat Row 92

95. Repeat Row 93

96. Repeat Row 90

97. Ch.1, HDC across into each st. HDCinc in last St.

If you would like your Shawl to be longer/larger, you should easily be able to work more of the sections you like, with minor adjustments.

Finishing Border

Picot: Ch. 3, SlSt into Rear loop of 1st Ch made. 

Turn 90* & Sc, Ch. 1, Sc into same space. Sc around evenly for border. Placing Sc, Picot, Sc into each point/corner, and Dec in each “inner” corner/step between sections-where 2 sts were left unworked.

From here you can choose to leave your shawl as is, or you can block it for a very nice finish like I did.

Pattern Declaimer

Thank You So much for your support and purchase of this pattern.

Items made from this pattern may be sold, though I do request a mention of my name @CrystalsCritterCreations

***There is absolutely no selling or sharing of this pattern as it is protected by Copyright and 100% my own creation and owned by me.***

 

 

Occasionally a mistake or typo falls through, please report them via email (help@yarnbitsshop.com) and the pattern will be updated accordingly.

 

Posted on

October 2021 QuickProjects: Brick Button Pouch

Brick Button Pouch

October 2021 QuickProjects

Pattern Skill Level: Easy-Intermediate | Finished Size: 11.5 x 7 inches flat.

This cute button pouch has its opening in the middle of the body instead of along the edge and is perfect for carrying small projects or a notebook/sticky notes in your purse. It’s not too holey that pens or larger hooks will slip through either! The fun brick look makes it stand out and is made with a 3-row repeat. Once you get the hang of the two special stitches, it’ll be a breeze. Happy Crocheting! ~Lauren  

In this box, there is: 

  • Two Skeins Patons Hempster in two colors- $12
  • New: Handmade by Lauren 4mm Clay Handled Crochet Hook- $8
  • Buttons- $2
  • Collectible and exclusively designed for QuickProjects Boxes monthly sticker- $4
  • Exclusive Pattern and Support- $10

Plus all Yarn Bits Shop Subscribers Perks!

Special stitches and abbreviations

dc4tog over 2 sp

  1. yo, insert hook in first sp, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through 2 loops on hook (2 loops on hook)
  2. Repeat step 1 in same sp (2 posts in first sp, 3 loops on hook)
  3. yo, insert hook in second sp, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through 2 loops on hook (4 loops on hook)
  4. Repeat step 3 in second sp (2 posts in each sp, 5 loops on hook)
  5. yo and pull through all loops on hook (1 loop on hook)

 

drop hdc2tog:

  1. yo, insert hook into first sp 2 rows below, yo and pull through sp. Pull loop up to top of row being worked. (3 loops on hook)
  2. yo, insert hook into second sp 2 rows below, yo and pull through sp. Pull loop up to top of row being worked. (5 loops on hook)
  3. yo and pull through all loops on hook. 

Brick Button Pouch Pattern

 

Color Note: Color A is the yarn that is the “frame” of the “bricks”. Color B is the “bricks”. 

 

With Color A, Ch 37. 

Row 1: {Right Side facing up}

  • sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch across, 

  • do not turn and drop color A loop. 

  • Place a stitch marker in loop to secure if desired. 

Total Stitches: 36 sc

 

Row 2: {Right Side facing up}

  • With Color B, sl st in first sp, ch 3, 

  • dc4tog over 2 sp in same sp beg ch and next, ch 1, 

  • (dc4tog over 2 sp, ch 1) across, 

  • with color B loop on hook, pick up color A loop and ch 2 with just color A then pull loop through color B loop to finish row, turn

  • Fasten off Color B

Total Stitches: 18 dc4tog, 18 ch-1

 

Row 3: {Wrong Side facing up}

  • Note: the spaces already have stitches from the dc4tog work so the drop stitches are worked on the outside of the dc4tog

  • Note 2: ch 1 are used to secure the drop stitches so they are straight lines down to bottom of work and will not be used in following rows

  • with Color A, ch 1, sc in first ch-1 sp, 

  • (sc in next ch-1 sp, drop hdc2tog over 2 sp from 2 rows below (row 1), ch 1) across last dc4tog

  • sc in sp between last dc4tog and beg ch to finish off row

  • Check that you have 36 sts- 2 st between all dc24og from row below plus 1 st on each end on the outside and do not count ch-1.

  • turn 

Total Stitches: 17 drop hdc2tog between all dc4tog clusters, 17 ch-1, 19 sc 

 

Row 4: {Right Side facing up}

  • ch 1, sc in each sp across, skipping all ch-1 sp, 

  • do not turn 

Total Stitches: 36 sc

 

Repeat 2-4 for a total of 20 times, 

 

Edging:

Note: if your rectangle warps with 1 sc in every sc row on the sides, do 1 sc for every 2 sc row 

 

  • Do not fasten off Color A or turn. Last repeat of row 4 counts towards edging.

  • Ch 2 for corner. 

  • Working down side, sc in each sc row and 3 sc in each dc4tog rows. (See note)

  • Ch 2 for corner. 

  • Sc in each sp of bottom (bottom of beg ch). 

  • Ch 2 for corner. 

  • Repeat side work back to top. 

  • Ch 2 for last corner and sl st to first st. 

  • Ensure stitches are even on both sides. Fasten off. 

Finishing Edges

Weave in all ends from working the rectangle up. 

Fold top and bottom of rectangle to center. This will be the pouch opening. 

 

To secure the edges

Starting with one folded corner, sl st into first sp. Ch 1 and sc in same sp. Sc in each sp (picking up back and front edge spaces as one) across to center. At center, ensure the corner sp is picked up as a stitch with back of pouch edge. You may need to do 2 front st to one back sp depending on the warping/flatness. Continue picking up back/front sp with sc to other fold. 

Turn and ch 1. Sc in each sp across. Ensure you like the look of the edge work before fastening off and repeating with other side. To make some adjustments if needed, sc2tog could be used at the ends and center to reduce the number of stitches and to keep it more rectangular at the edges. 

 

Repeat with the other side opening. Weave in all ends. The only opening is the center slit.

Buttons

Sew buttons (5-6, as desired), evenly spaced out along the edge on one side of the slit. 

 

On the other side of slit and for each button:

  • sl st to around the sp directly across from the button about one inch in (or the rows between the first and second rows of dc4tog sts). 

  • Ch a length that creates a loop that fits over the button. 

  • Sl st to same sp and fasten off, creating a loop for the button to go through. 

  • Weave in ends.

 

Alternative Ideas

 

Opening can be along one side instead of middle! 

Pattern Declaimer

This is a paid pattern originally designed for a Yarn Bits Shop subscription box. 

You have permission to sell any item made from this pattern. However, you are not allowed to resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern or downloads in any printed or digital form (in full), or to claim the pattern as your own original design. If you want to sell or share a picture of your work from this pattern, please clearly credit the design to me: Lauren Samar of Yarn Bits Shop (with link to the website when applicable). 

Occasionally a mistake or typo falls through, please report them via email (help@yarnbitsshop.com) and the pattern will be updated accordingly.

 

Need help?

 

Email help@yarnbitsshop.com with any questions 

Posted on

September 2021 QuickProjects: Bobbles Pumpkin Decor

Bobbles Pumpkin Decor

September 2021 QuickProjects

Pattern Skill Level: Easy-Intermediate 

With fall coming, a pumpkin pattern is the classic decoration that is perfect to keep out for several months! Yarn Bits Shop has never featured a pumpkin design before and it seemed like the perfect time to do so. The bobble stitch is featured here with some color-changing techniques. This is also an easy pattern to make with other yarns you have on hand to make your own pumpkin batch!
Happy Crocheting! ~Lauren

In this box, there is: 
  • Two Skeins Red Heart Hygge in two colors- $14
  • New: Handmade by Lauren 6.5mm Resin Crochet Hook- $8
  • Collectible and exclusively designed for QuickProjects Boxes monthly sticker- $4
  • Exclusive Pattern and Support- $10
Plus all Yarn Bits Shop Subscribers Perks!

Overall Pattern and Colors Notes

Pattern Skill Level: Easy-Intermediate

The pumpkin is first crochet flat into a strip then the ends of the strip are sewn together to create a circle. One side (top/bottom) is then scrunched up and secured. The opposite side is mainly completed the same way prior to being stuffed. After being stuffed, that side is secured and the tail is pulled through the center to the other side to bring the top/bottom of the pumpkin together to get the desired shape. Lastly, the stem is sewed on and all ends are woven in!

As for the color choice- Color A is the “main” color of the design and Color B will only be shown with the bobbles and the stem. In the example image, the rust colored yarn is Color A and the white yarn is Color B. Color A will be completely used up and Color B will have some left over.

Special stitches and abbreviations

Bobbles: 

  1. Yarn over (yo), insert hook into sp, yo and pull through sp (3 loops on hook)
  2. Repeat step 1 four more times until you have 11 loops on hook
  3. YO and pull through all loops on hook

Single crochet two together (sc2tog):

  1. insert hook into first sp, yo and pull through sp (2 loops on hook)
  2. Insert hook into next sp, yo and pull through sp (3 loops on hook)
  3. Yo and pull through all 3 loops on hook

BLO: Back loop only

FLO: Front loop only

Body of Pumpkin Pattern

With Color A, ch 32.

Row 1: hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in each sp across, turn  

Stitches Count: 30 hdc

Row 2: ch 2, hdc in BLO across, turn

Stitches Count: 30 hdc in BLO

Row 3

  • join Color B with sl st (do not fasten off Color A), 
  • *sl st in next 4 sp- picking up both front and back loop for sl sts 
  • (sl st, bobble, sl st) in next sp in BLO, 
  • Repeat from * across to last 5 sp, 
  • sl st in next 5 sp- picking up both front and back loop for sl sts 
  • Put skein of color B through loop to fasten off but do not cut (for minimal ends!)
  • Do not turn

Stitches Count: 5 bobbles and 25 sl st

 

Row 4: Working in the same direction as row 3 and over sl sts

  • Pull loop of Color A through first sp and ch 1. 
  • sc in same sp (over sl st) and in each sp across. In bobble sp, pick up unused front loop 
  • Turn

Stitches Count: 30 sc over sl st and behind bobbles

Row 5: ch 2, hdc in BLO across, turn

Stitches Count: 30 hdc in BLO

Row 6: ch 2, hdc in FLO across, turn

Stitches Count: 30 hdc in FLO

Row 7

  • join Color B with sl st (do not fasten off Color A)- pull enough to keep flat but not too much that there’s excess yarn along the side. This will be hidden when finishing the pattern (and saves weaving in ends!)
  • sl st in next 2 sp- picking up both front and back loop for sl sts 
  • *(sl st, bobble, sl st) in next sp in FLO- so all bobbles are on the same side!**
  • Sl st in next 4 sp- picking up both front and back loop for sl sts 
  • Repeat from * across ending at **
  • sl st in next 2 sp- picking up both front and back loop for sl sts 
  • Put skein of color B through loop to fasten off but do not cut (for minimal ends!)
  • Do not turn

Stitches Count: 6 bobbles and 24 sl st

Round 8: Working in the same direction as row 7 and over sl sts

  • Pull loop of Color A through first sp and ch 1. 
  • sc in same sp (over sl st) and in each sp across. In bobble sp, pick up unused back loop 
  • Turn

Stitches Count: 30 sc over sl st and behind bobbles

Row 9: ch 2, hdc in FLO (front loop only) across, turn

Stitches Count: 30 hdc in FLO

Row 10: ch 2, hdc in BLO across, turn

Stitches Count: 30 hdc in BLO

 

Repeat rows 3-10 until Color A is running low, ending on row 8. Fasten off both colors with a long tail for both. In the sample pumpkin- there are 12 total  bobble rows. 

Stem Pattern 

With Color B, ch 2. 

Round 1: 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sl st to first sc

Stitches Count: 6 sc

Round 2-6: ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to join to first sc. 

Stitches Count: 6 sc

Note– if a longer stem is desired, continue with round 2 pattern until length before curve is the height desired. 

 

Round 7: ch 1, sc2tog over next 2 sp, sc in next 4 sp, sl st to first.

Stitches Count: 5 sc

Round 8: ch 1, sc in each sp around, sl st to first sc. 

Stitches Count: 5 sc

Round 9: ch 1, sc2tog in over next 2 sp, sc in next 3 sp, sl st to first.

Stitches Count: 4 sc

Round 10: ch 1, sc in each sp around, sl st to first sc.

Stitches Count: 4 sc

Round 11: ch 1, sc2tog over next 2 sp, sc in next 2 sp, sl st to first. 

Stitches Count: 3 sc

Round 12: ch 1, sc in each sp around, sl st to first sc. Fasten off with long tail. 

Stitches Count: 3 sc

 

Curve tip into body and pull end through where desired. Tie off at connection point and pull end through center of round 1 (at bottom). Sew stem on at the center of the top of the pumpkin. 

Finishing Overall Pattern

Sew ends of strips together: 

With Color A long tail, sew the two ends of the strip together by lining up the two ends stitches and sewing the bottom of the beg ch to ONLY the back loop sts of the corresponding sts. This creates another raised “seam” of the pumpkin and hides the join. The bobbles should be facing out while doing this. Keep the body of the pumpkin flat (don’t scrunch up body while sewing ends of strip together) and tie off securely after two ends are sewed together. 

 

Sew and scrunch one circular edge: 

Using an end from working the pattern or a length of a yarn, weave in and out of one edge all the way around and pull tight to scrunch up toward the center. Secure ends by tying and sewing ends in more as needed. Put ends inside of pumpkin and weave in ends securely.  This is the top or bottom of your pumpkin! 

 

Stuff your pumpkin: 

On the other side of the pumpkin (not scrunched up side) and using an end from working the pattern or a length of a yarn, weave in and out of one edge all the way around. Scrunch part of the way to close gap more. Stuff pumpkin with filling of choice but do not over stuff- only stuff it enough so it holds the shape. After stuffing pumpkin, pull sewing yarn tight to close gap completely. Secure gap by tying/sewing more. 

 

Shape pumpkin:

Take end (with needle or hook) and pull through center to opposite side of pumpkin. Pull tightly and secure shape by tying/sewing at center. This makes the pattern go from a sphere to a pumpkin shape! Weave in ends. 

Alternative Ideas

If making a pumpkin is not desired, a cowl could be made! Instead of 32 beg ch, ch 27 (or 22 for a skinnier cowl) for a large circumference and complete the pattern as written with 1-2 less bobbles per row. 

 

The pattern can be completed with other yarns easily and use up scrap yarns for the bobble rows! The pumpkin base would be one color and the bobbles would be different colors around.

Pattern Declaimer

This is a paid pattern originally designed for a Yarn Bits Shop subscription box. 

You have permission to sell any item made from this pattern. However, you are not allowed to resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern or downloads in any printed or digital form (in full), or to claim the pattern as your own original design. If you want to sell or share a picture of your work from this pattern, please clearly credit the design to me: Lauren Samar of Yarn Bits Shop (with link to the website when applicable). 

Occasionally a mistake or typo falls through, please report them via email (help@yarnbitsshop.com) and the pattern will be updated accordingly.