Category: CrochetMastery

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May 2022 CrochetMastery: Textured Sun Hat

Textured Sun Hat

May 2022 CrochetMastery

With summer rapidly approaching, a sun hat feature seemed fitting! The yarn is raffia material which is a natural fiber that is water resistant (not waterproof!) and it’s perfect for summer accessories. This pattern features popcorn stitches as well as clusters to make the fabric more dense for the hat!  Happy Crocheting! ~Lauren 

In this box, there are: 

  • Three Skeins Universal Yarns Yashi- $18  |  Three Skeins Universal Yarns Yashi Iro- $24
  • Handmade Rosewood Hook Size G- $8 
  • Handmade Stitch Markers- $8
  • Exclusive Pattern and Support- $10  |  Plus all Yarn Bits Shop Subscribers Perks! ($60+ Bimonthly Value!) 
Crochet Produce Bags

Overall Notes

Skill Level: Intermediate due to shaping

Gauge: First 3 rounds = 2.75 inches diameter. 3 sts = 1 inch 

Use size G hook. 

 

Sizing Notes: 

To get the circumference of the hat to be the correct size: 

  1. Take a measurement of the circumference of your head around your forehead and above ears (like where a sunhat would rest!)
  2. Round it to the nearest third of the inch roughly (because each 3 sts = ~1 inches for the pattern)
  3. Multiple the circumference by 3 and round it to the next EVEN whole number. That is the number of stitches you need to get to. If you measured loosely/comfortably- I would get to the closest even number. If you measured tightly, I would round up. 
  4. Use this number for Round 9 or 10 of the pattern. If your number is less than 63, adjust the number in Round 9 and do not do any increases in 10. If your number is 64 or greater, add extra stitches in Round 10 to reach that number. 

An Example: My measurement was 21.5 inches. I rounded it up to 21.6 and multiplied it by 3 to get 64.8. I rounded it to 66 for my hat. This is the number I got to in Round 10 of the Pattern. 

 

You may not use all the yarn in the box but an extra two skeins were included to cover all sizes and brim sizes desired! See Alternative Pattern ideas for ideas to use last bits of yarn up. 

Stitches Guide 

Yarn Over (yo); Space (sp); Stitch (st); Skip (sk); Loop (lp)

Chain (ch): with one lp on hook, yo and pull through the lp on hook

Slip Stitch (sl st): insert hook into target sp, yo and pull through sp AND lp on hook

Double Crochet (dc):  yo, insert hook into target sp, yo and pull through sp, (yo and pull through 2 lps on hook) twice

2 Half Double Crochet Cluster (2-hdc cluster): (yo, insert hook in sp, yo and pull through sp) twice, yo and pull through all loops on hook 

2 Double Crochet Cluster (2-dc cluster): (yo, insert hook in sp, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through 2 loops on hook) twice, yo and pull through all loops on hook 

Popcorn: 5 dc in one sp, drop loop from hook, insert hook in sp of first dc from front to back, pick up loop again, yo and pull through loops on hook.

Textured Sun Hat Pattern

Skill Level: Intermediate due to shaping

Gauge: First 3 rounds = 2.75 inches diameter. 3 sts = 1 inch 

Use size G hook

Top of Hat

With solid color, ch 3. 

Round 1: 2-hdc cluster 9 times in 3rd ch from hook, sl st to first cluster. [9 clusters]

Round 2: ch 2, 2 2-hdc cluster in first sp and each sp around, sl st to first cluster. [18 clusters]

Round 3: ch 2, (2–hdc cluster in next, 2 2-hdc cluster in next) around, sl st to first cluster. [27 clusters]

Round 4: ch 2, 2-hdc cluster in each sp around, sl st to first cluster. [27 clusters]

Round 5: ch 2, (2–hdc cluster in next 2, 2 2-hdc cluster in next) around, sl st to first cluster. [36 clusters]

Round 6: ch 2, (2 2-hdc cluster in next, 2–hdc cluster in next 3) around, sl st to first cluster. [45 clusters]

Round 7: ch 2, 2-hdc cluster in each sp around, sl st to first cluster. [45 clusters]

Round 8: ch 2, (2–hdc cluster in next 4, 2 2-hdc cluster in next) around, sl st to first cluster. [54 clusters]

 

Refer to sizing notes for what number of stitches you need to get to and increase as needed evenly in either round 9 or 10.

Round 9: ch 2, (2 2-hdc cluster in next, 2–hdc cluster in next 5) around, sl st to first cluster. [63 clusters]

Round 10: ch 2, 2-hdc cluster in each sp around (except for increases where needed), sl st to first cluster. [Even number of clusters]

Round 11: ch 2, 2-hdc cluster in each sp around, sl st to first cluster. [Even number of clusters/Same number of sps as previous round]

Fasten off solid color! 

Body of Hat

Round 12: sl st variegated yarn in any sp in round, ch 3, 2-dc cluster in same sp, (popcorn in next sp, 2-dc cluster in next) around to last sp, popcorn in next sp, sl st to top of first cluster. [Even number of clusters/Same number of sps as previous round]

Round 13: sl st to center of next popcorn, ch 3, 2-dc cluster in same sp, (popcorn in next cluster sp, 2-dc cluster in next popcorn center) around to last sp, popcorn in next sp, sl st to top of first cluster. [Even number of clusters/Same number of sps as previous round]

Repeat Round 13 three more times (Rounds 14-16). Check sizing here (even though it looks funny without brim!)- ensure it goes as far down as desired and is not too tight/loose. Fasten off variegated color! 

Brim of Hat- First Color

Round 17: sl st solid color in any dc-cluster sp, ch 2, 2-hdc cluster in same sp, 2-hdc cluster in each popcorn center and cluster sp around, sl st to first. 

In round 18- the number of sts need to be returned to a multiple of 9 with 72 being the target assuming the number was close to 63. If you made a smaller hat, 63 is the target. For example: If you’re at 62, add 10 sts in Round 18. If you’re at 66, add 6 sts in round 18.

Round 18: Working in front loop only- ch 2, (2 2-hdc cluster in next, 2–hdc cluster in next 6) around with any extra increases as needed, sl st to first cluster. [72 clusters]

 

Round 19: ch 2, (2–hdc cluster in next 7, 2 2-hdc cluster in next) around, sl st to first cluster. [81 clusters]

Round 20: ch 2, 2-hdc custer in next 5, (2 2-hdc cluster in next, 2–hdc cluster in next 8) around, sl st to first cluster. [90 clusters]

Round 21: ch 2, (2 2-hdc cluster in next, 2–hdc cluster in next 9) around, sl st to first cluster. [99 clusters]

Round 22: ch 2, 2-hdc cluster in next 6, (2 2-hdc cluster in next, 2–hdc cluster in next 10) around, sl st to first cluster. [108 clusters]

Round 23: ch 2, (2 2-hdc cluster in next, 2–hdc cluster in next 11) around, sl st to first cluster. [117 clusters]

Fasten off solid color. 

Brim of Hat- Second Color

Round 24: Working in back loop only- sl st variegated color in any sp, ch 2, 2-hdc cluster in next 7, (2 2-hdc cluster in next, 2–hdc cluster in next 12) around, sl st to first cluster. [126 clusters]

Round 25: ch 2, (2 2-hdc cluster in next, 2–hdc cluster in next 13) around, sl st to first cluster. [135 clusters]

Round 26: ch 2, 2-hdc in next 8, (2 2-hdc cluster in next, 2–hdc cluster in next 14) around, sl st to first cluster. [144 clusters]

Round 27: ch 2, (2 2-hdc cluster in next, 2–hdc cluster in next 15) around, sl st to first cluster. [153 clusters]

Round 28: ch 2, 2-hdc in next 9, (2 2-hdc cluster in next, 2–hdc cluster in next 16) around, sl st to first cluster. [162 clusters]

Fasten off solid color. 

 

Brim of Hat- Finishing

Round 29: Working in back loop only- sl st solid color in any sp, ch 2, (2 2-hdc cluster in next, 2–hdc cluster in next 17) around, sl st to first cluster. [171 clusters]

 

You can fasten off here if the brim size is what you like or you can continue with the pattern until the desired size is reached. The next 5 rows are given below- feel free to continue with color order or change it up for the edge! When changing colors, work that round in back loop only. 

 

Round 30: ch 2, 2-hdc in next 10, (2 2-hdc cluster in next, 2–hdc cluster in next 18) around, sl st to first cluster. [180 clusters]

Round 31: ch 2, (2 2-hdc cluster in next, 2–hdc cluster in next 19) around, sl st to first cluster. [189 clusters]

Round 32: ch 2, 2-hdc in next 11, (2 2-hdc cluster in next, 2–hdc cluster in next 20) around, sl st to first cluster. [197 clusters]

Round 31: ch 2, (2 2-hdc cluster in next, 2–hdc cluster in next 21) around, sl st to first cluster. [206 clusters]

Round 32: ch 2, 2-hdc in next 12, (2 2-hdc cluster in next, 2–hdc cluster in next 16) around, sl st to first cluster. [215 clusters]

 

Fasten off and weave in any ends. Starch hat if desired to have a stiff brim. 

Alternative patterns ideas with Raffia yarn: Basket, market bag, placemats/table runner

Pattern Declaimer

This is a paid pattern originally designed for a Yarn Bits Shop subscription box. 

You have permission to sell any item made from this pattern. However, you are not allowed to resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern or downloads in any printed or digital form (in full), or to claim the pattern as your own original design. If you want to sell or share a picture of your work from this pattern, please clearly credit the design to me: Lauren Samar of Yarn Bits Shop (with link to the website when applicable). 

Occasionally a mistake or typo falls through, please report them via email (help@yarnbitsshop.com) and the pattern will be updated accordingly.

 

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March 2022 CrochetMastery: Tunisian Crochet Cabled Pillow

Tunisian Crochet Cabled Pillow

March 2022 CrochetMastery

Skill Level: Easy | Hook: Size H or 5mm | Gauge: N/A | Dimensions: 22 inches around x 15.5 inches long

Tunisian Crochet has been featured in Yarn Bits Shop subscription boxes but this is the first time these particular tunisian stitches have been featured. The entire pattern is about cables! Cables are usually a knitting thing but it is very doable with tunisian crochet! Cables and the velvet yarn combination is perfect for throw pillows and while the pattern is short with two options, it is a fun addition to any armchair or couch! Happy Crocheting! ~Lauren

In this box, there are: 

  • Two Skein Bernat Velvet in one color- $24
  • Cabled Crochet Hook- $10
  • Cable Stitch Holder- $4
  • Handmade Stitch Markers- $8
  • Exclusive Pattern and Support- $10

Plus all Yarn Bits Shop Subscribers Perks! ($60+ Bimonthly Value!)

Overall Technique Notes

Skill Level: Intermediate-advanced

Tunisian crochet work is never turned and each row is worked in two parts: the forward and return pass. The forward pass picks up the stitches/loops onto the hook (hence why the hooks need to be longer) and the return pass works them off the hook. With this technique, the back of the fabric will look different than the front and curling is common (but can be tamed with blocking or a border). 

 

The foundation row is started the same way for any tunisian stitch. 

ch a number of stitches

Forward pass: roll chain forward slightly so the back bumps can be seen. Insert hook in 2nd ch back bump, yarn over,  and pull through (2 loops on hook). Repeat for each ch across. Work end st for last st.

Return pass: Yarn over, pull through first loop on hook (basically a ch 1, known as return ch), Yarn over and pull through two loops on hook, repeat across until there is one stitch left on the hook. This stitch is now the 1st stitch of the next row.

Always skip 1st vertical bar and always work end st at end of row- first and last stitches do not count in patterns

Stitches Guide 

Tunisian End Stitch:  Insert hook under the last vertical bar and the bar that lies directly behind it (2 bars on hook), yo and pull through loop. Yo and pull through one loop. 

Tunisian Purl Stitch (TPS): Forward- bring yarn forward to front of work, insert hook from right to left under next vertical bar, bring yarn across the front of vertical bar and to back of work, yo and pull up a loop. 

Tunisian Knit Stitch (TKS): Forward– insert hook from front to back between the front and back vertical bars of the next stitch, yo and pull up loop.

Tunisian 6 sts Cable: Tks 3, slip st just worked onto cable needle and keep at front of work, Tks 3, slip sts from cable needle back onto hook

Overall Pattern Notes

There are two main size options- two square pillows (~14×14 inches) or one rectangular pillow (~14x28inches). After deciding which is desired, you have two options for cabled designs- single cable or multiple cables. The technique is the same, just the number of cables is different! Below are your options:

Two square pillows with:

  • single cabled on both sides for both (both sides same)
  • multiple cables on both sides for both (both sides same)
  • one side has single cable and the other has multiple cables (sides are different)

One rectangular pillow with:

  • single OR multiple cabled long strip on both sides (both sides same)
  • single OR multiple cabled short strip on both sides (both sides same)
  • single OR multiple cabled short strip on one side and long strip on other side (sides are different in terms of orientation of cables only)
  • single/multiple cabled short strip on one side and single/multiple cabled long strip on other side (sides are different in terms of orientation AND number of cables)

 

If you’re not sure what you would like, it is suggested to start one side with either single or multiple cables and work until you make a square. After that you can decide to end there for two square pillows or continue for a long strip for a rectangular pillow. Note- I would not recommend the single cable for the rectangular pillows if working the long side, just because it’ll be a bit boring!  

 

Tips: DO not worry about gauge too much, just check as you’re doing the 2nd side that the measurements are the same. Keep tension loose enough for loops so it’s easy to pick up stitches. Lastly, work in good lighting! The velvet yarn is fuzzy and can be challenging. If you need to practice with regular yarn prior to tackling the velvet, that is perfectly fine!!

Single Cable Pattern- Square or Short Side of Rectangle

Row 1 (foundation row): Chain 42. Pick up a loop from back bump in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch to end, leaving all loops on hook. [42 loops on hook] Return.

Row 2: Tps 17, Tks 6, Tps 17, work end st. [42 loops on hook] Return. 

Row 3: Work as for Row 2.

Row 4: Tps 17, Tks 3, yo, Tks 3, Tps 17, work end st. [43 loops on hook]. Return 

Row 5: Tps 17, Tks 3, skip yo sp from previous row, Tks 3, Tps 17, work end st. [42 loops on hook] Return.

Row 6: Tps 17, Tunisian 6 sts Cable, Tps 17, work end st. [42 loops on hook] Return.

 

Rows 2-6 form pattern. Repeat for desired length then repeat rows 2-3 (should be ~14 inches for square or 28 inches for rectangle) and follow bind off steps. Fasten off and weave in ends. 

Single Cable Pattern- Long Side of Rectangle

Row 1 (foundation row): Chain 82. Pick up a loop from back bump in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch to end, leaving all loops on hook. [82 loops on hook] Return.

Row 2: Tps 37, Tks 6, Tps 37, work end st. [82 loops on hook] Return. 

Row 3: Work as for Row 2.

Row 4: Tps 37, Tks 3, yo, Tks 3, Tps 37, work end st. [83 loops on hook]. Return 

Row 5: Tps 37, Tks 3, skip yo sp from previous row, Tks 3, Tps 37, work end st. [82 loops on hook] Return.

Row 6: Tps 37, Tunisian 6 sts Cable, Tps 37, work end st. [82 loops on hook] Return.

 

Rows 2-6 form pattern. Repeat for desired length then repeat rows 2-3 (should be ~14 inches) and follow bind off steps. Fasten off and weave in ends. 

Multiple Cable Pattern- Square or Short Side of Rectangle

Row 1 (foundation row): Chain 42. Pick up a loop from back bump in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch to end, leaving all loops on hook. [42 loops on hook] Return.

Row 2: Tps 5, (Tks 6, Tps 6) two times, Tks 6, Tps 5, work end st. [42 loops on hook] Return.

Row 3: Work as for Row 2.

Row 4: Tps 5, (Tks 3, yo, Tks 3, Tps 6) two times, Tks 3, yo, Tks 3, Tps 5, work end st. [45 loops on hook]. Return.

Row 5: Tps 5, (Tks 3, skip yo sp from previous row, Tks 3, Tps 6) two times, Tks 3, skip yo sp from previous row, Tks 3, Tps 5, work end st. [42 loops on hook] Return.

Row 6: Tps 5, (Tunisian 6 sts Cable, Tps 6) two times, Tunisian 6 sts Cable, Tps 5, work end st. Return.

 

Rows 2-6 form pattern. Repeat for desired length then repeat rows 2-3 (should be ~14 for square and ~28 for rectangle) and follow bind off steps. Fasten off and weave in ends. 

Multiple Cable Pattern- Long side of Rectangle

Row 1 (foundation row): Chain 82. Pick up a loop from back bump in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch to end, leaving all loops on hook. [82 loops on hook] Return.

Row 2: Tps 7, (Tks 6, Tps 6) five times, Tks 6, Tps 7, work end st. [82 loops on hook] Return.

Row 3: Work as for Row 2.

Row 4: Tps 7, (Tks 3, yo, Tks 3, Tps 6) five times, Tks 3, yo, Tks 3, Tps 7, work end st. [88 loops on hook]. Return.

Row 5: Tps 7, (Tks 3, skip yo sp from previous row, Tks 3, Tps 6) five times, Tks 3, skip yo sp from previous row, Tks 3, Tps 7, work end st. [82 loops on hook] Return.

Row 6: Tps 7, (Tunisian 6 sts Cable, Tps 6) five times, Tunisian 6 sts Cable, Tps 7, work end st. Return.

 

Rows 2-6 form pattern. Repeat for desired length then repeat rows 2-3 (should be ~14 inches) and follow bind off steps. Fasten off and weave in ends. 

Finishing

Bind Off: 

  • Insert hook into the next stitch the same way as you were working the last row, yo, pull loop through BOTH loops on hook. 
  • Repeat across until you have one loop left. 
  • Cut yarn and pull through the end. Weave all ends in. 

 

Border:

The border is to mainly finish off the edges AND join the two sides together. This is worked in regular crochet. 

Round 1: 

  • Join to any corner of BOTH side (work in both sides corresponding sps here and on)
  • Ch 1, (sc, ch 2, sc) in same sp- corner made, sc in each sp across to next corner, (sc, ch 2, sc) in corner, 
  • continue around to last side, stuff the pillow with an insert or polyfill!
  • Continue to first corner, 
  • Sl st to first sc. Do not turn. Check for warping before continuing. 

Round 2: 

  • sl st to ch-2 sp of corner, 
  • (sc, ch 2, sc) in sp, sc in each sp across to next corner, (sc, ch 2, sc) in corner, 
  • continue around to first corner. Sl st to first sc. Do not turn. 

Alternative Pattern Ideas

The velvet yarn is not ideal for many items beyond decorative ones but below are two ideas if pillows are not desired!

Scarf– Work short side of single/multiple cables and continue until yarn is used up or desired length is reached! You can modify the width as well by reducing the number of sts on both side of the center 6 sts. 

 

Basket– IMPORTANT NOTE: This needs a bit of craftiness! This can be a basket cover if you want to find a basket or additional support will be needed to keep the basket standing. 

  1. Make either single or multiple short side until desired circumference is reached (but don’t make it too big!). 
  2. Sew two ends together. 
  3. Make a circular base with regular crochet until it reaches the same diameter
  4. Attach base to one edge of the cable strip (can sl st around!). 
  5. Cover existing basket or add support. 

 

Blanket– More yarn will be needed but can follow the multiple cable pattern for a pretty design. Add multiple of 12 sts to increase width. 

Need help? Email help@yarnbitsshop.com with any questions 

Pattern Declaimer

This is a paid pattern originally designed for a Yarn Bits Shop subscription box. 

You have permission to sell any item made from this pattern. However, you are not allowed to resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern or downloads in any printed or digital form (in full), or to claim the pattern as your own original design. If you want to sell or share a picture of your work from this pattern, please clearly credit the design to me: Lauren Samar of Yarn Bits Shop (with link to the website when applicable). 

Occasionally a mistake or typo falls through, please report them via email (help@yarnbitsshop.com) and the pattern will be updated accordingly.

 

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September CM 2021: Crazy Crew Shawl

Crazy Crew Shawl

Everyone needs a good Crew!

September 2021 CrochetMastery

by Crystal’s Critter Creations on 09 June 2021

Go on a crazy journey with me! This was designed using a crew of different stitches that come together in the end to create a glorious shawl. I truly hope you enjoy the time you’ll take to work this up as I did creating this beauty.

Pattern Skill Level: Advanced/Mastery Level

US Terms

You Will Need

5 mm/ H Hook

Light DK/DK Weight Yarn – Approx. 700yds

*Optional-Blocking Boards & Pins for blocking

Stitches to Know

SC – Single Crochet

Inc – Single Crochet Increase

HDC – Half Double Crochet

HDCinc – Half Double Crochet Increase 

DC- Double Crochet

TR – Treble/Triple Crochet

BLO – Back Loop Only

Front 3rd loop – The “extra” loop created when using HDC

FPDC/BPDC – Front Post/Back Post Double Crochet

FPTR/BPTR – Front Post/Back Post Treble/Triple Crochet

SkSt- Skip Stitch

Ch- Chain

YO- Yarn Over

*Ch. 2 COUNTS as a stitch, Ch. 1 does NOT

*Turn at end of every Row

*You will be increasing on only one side for the entire pattern.

1. Ch. 3, DC 2 into 1st chain. (3DC)

2. Ch. 2, DC in same st. DC 2 (4DC)

3. Ch. 1, HDC across. 2 HDC in last St. (5HDC)

4. Ch. 1, In Front 3rd Loop, HDCinc, HDC across. (6 HDC)

5. Ch. 1, BLO HDC across, HDC inc in last st. ( 7 HDC)

6. Ch. 1, In Front 3rd Loop, HDCinc, HDC across. (8 HDC)

7. Ch. 2, DC across. DCinc last St. (9 DC)

Puff Stitch Section

 Puff Stitch: (YO and pull up a loop) x4, YO and pull through all loops on hook. Ch. 1 to finish. Ch.1 off Puff does NOT Count as a ch space.

8. Ch. 3 Counts as DC+ Ch. and DC same St. *Ch. 1, skst, DC* Repeat from * to * across to end. (6 DC, 5 chs)

9. Ch. 3, *Puff in next DC, Ch.1 * Repeat From * to * across. Puff, Ch. 1, DC all in last st. ( 5 Puff, 6 chs, 2 DC)

10. Ch. 3, DC same St. Ch. 1 *Puff in Ch Space, ch. 1* Repeat from * to * across. DC in last St. ( 6 Puff, 8 chs, 3 DC)

11. Ch. 2, *Puff in ch sp, Ch. 1* Repeat from * to * across. DC Ch. 1 DC in last st. (8 puff, 9ch, 3 DC)

12. Ch.3 and DC same st, Ch. 1, DC into next DC, ch. 1 *DC into puff, Ch. 1* Repeat from * to * across. DC in last st. (12 DC, 11 chs)

13. Ch.1, HDC across into each st and ch space. HDCinc in last St. (24 HDC)

14. Ch. 1, In Front 3rd Loop, HDCinc, HDC across. (25 HDC)

15. Ch. 1, BLO HDC across, HDC inc in last st. (26 HDC)

16. Ch. 1, In Front 3rd Loop, HDCinc, HDC across. leaving remaining 2 Sts unworked. (25 HDC) 

Trinity Stitch Section

Trinity stitch: 1. Sc3Tog starting in the same stitch and across next 2 Sts, Ch.1. You will work into the Ch space for all subsequent rows of this section.

17. Ch. 1, SC. Trinity stitch across. In last st, Inc.

 18. Ch.1, Inc, Trinity stitch across. Do not Ch. after last Sc3Tog, Place a sc in last St.

Repeat Rows 17-18 to row 28.

29. Ch.1, HDC across into each st and ch space. HDCinc in last St. (37 HDC)

30. Ch. 1, In Front 3rd Loop, HDCinc, HDC across (38 HDC)

31. Ch. 1, BLO HDC across, HDC inc in last st (39 HDC)

32. Ch. 1, In Front 3rd Loop, HDCinc, HDC across. leaving remaining 2 Sts unworked (38 HDC)

Celtic Weave Section

 33. Ch. 2, *Sk2 Sts, TR in next 2 Sts. Then work next TR into each of the previously skipped Sts.* Repeat from * to * across, TR and DC into last st.

34. Ch.2, and TR into same St. BPTR around next St. BPTR around the next 2 Hidden Sts. Sk2 Sts, *BPTR around next 2 Hidden Sts. Going behind the previously made Sts. BPTR around each of the previous 2 skipped sts.* Repeat from * to * across. BPTR 2, DC in last St. 

35. Ch.2, Sk 2 sts, FPTR around each of next 2 BPTR of previous row. FPTR around Skipped Sts from previous row. *Sk 2 Sts. FPTR around next 2 Sts. Then FPTR around each of the previously 2 skipped Sts* Repeat from * to * across. FPTR 2, placing TR and DC into last st.

36. Ch.2, and TR into same St. BPTR around next st. *Sk2Sts, BPTR around next 2 Hidden Sts. Going behind the previously made Sts. BPTR around each of the previous 2 skipped sts.* Repeat from * to * across. BPTR 2, DC in last St.

37. Ch.2, Sk 2 sts, FPTR around each of next 2 BPTR of previous row. FPTR around Skipped Sts from previous row. *Sk 2 Sts. FPTR around next 2 Sts. Then FPTR around each of the previously 2 skipped Sts* Repeat from * to * across. Placing TR and DC into last st

38. Repeat Row 34

39. Repeat Row 35

40. Repeat Row 36

41. Repeat Row 37

42. Repeat Row 34

43. Ch.1, HDC across into each st and ch space. HDCinc in last St. (48)

44. Ch. 1, In Front 3rd Loop, HDCinc, HDC across (49)

45. Ch. 1, BLO HDC across, HDC inc in last st (50)

46. Ch. 1, In Front 3rd Loop, HDCinc, HDC across. leaving remaining 2 Sts unworked (49)

Diagonal Shell Section

 47. Ch. 1, Sc and Ch. 2. 4DC into same St as Sc. *Sk3Sts, Sc and Ch. 2. 4DC into same St as Sc* Repeat from * to * across. In last st Sc and Ch. 2. 4DC into same St as Sc.

48. Ch. 1, Sc and Ch. 2. 4DC into same St as Sc. *Sc in ch of previous row, Ch. 2. 4DC into same Space as Sc* Repeat from * to * across. Sc into top of ch. 2 from previous row. 

49. Ch. 1, Sc and Ch. 2. 4DC into same St as Sc. *Sc in ch of previous row, Ch. 2. 4DC into same Space as Sc* Repeat from * to * across. In last st Sc and Ch. 2. 4DC into same St as Sc.

50. Repeat Row 48

51. Repeat Row 49

52. Repeat Row 48

53. Repeat Row 49

54. Repeat Row 48

55. Repeat Row 49

56. Repeat Row 48

57. Ch. 1, HDC. HDC across into each DC of previous row, Skipping the Sc’s. HDCinc into last st. (69)

58. Ch. 1, In Front 3rd Loop, HDCinc, HDC across (70)

59. Ch. 1, BLO HDC across, HDC inc in last st (71)

60. Ch. 1, In Front 3rd Loop, HDCinc, HDC across. leaving remaining 2 Sts unworked. (70)

Diagonal Stripes Section

61. Ch. 1, HDC. *FPDC 3, BPDC3* Repeat from * to * across. DC & HDC into last st.

From here, with each new row your post Stitches will shift by 1. This creates the diagonal look and will be more apparent as you continue to work this section.

 62. Ch. 1, HDC & DC in same st. *FPDC 3, BPDC 3* Repeat from * to * across. FPDC, HDC in last St.

63. Ch. 1, HDC. BPDC 2. *FPDC 3, BPDC 3* Repeat from * to * across. DC & HDC into last st.

64. Ch. 1, HDC & DC in same st. *FPDC 3, BPDC 3* Repeat from * to * across. FPDC 3, HDC into last st.

65. Ch. 1, HDC. FPDC, BPDC 3. *FPDC 3, BPDC3* Repeat from * to * across. DC & HDC into last st.

66. Ch. 1, HDC & DC in same st.. *FPDC 3, BPDC3* Repeat from * to * across. BPDC 2, HDC in last St.

67. Repeat Row 61

68. Repeat Row 62

69. Repeat Row 63

70. Repeat Row 64

71. Ch.1, HDC across into each st. HDCinc in last St. (81)

72. Ch. 1, In Front 3rd Loop, HDCinc, HDC across (82)

73. Ch. 1, BLO HDC across, HDC inc in last st (83)

74. Ch. 1, In Front 3rd Loop, HDCinc, HDC across. leaving remaining 2 Sts unworked (82)

Harringbone Section

 Herringbone Stitch: YO and pull up a loop and draw through One. YO and draw through One again. YO draw through both remaining loops.

75. Ch. 2, Herringbone across to end. Place 2 into the last st. 

76. Ch. 2, and Herringbone into same St and across. 

77. Repeat Row 75

78. Repeat Row 76

79. Repeat Row 75

80. Repeat Row 76

81. Repeat Row 75

82. Repeat Row 76

83. Repeat Row 75

84. Repeat Row 76

85. Ch.1, HDC across into each st. HDCinc in last St. (93)

86. Ch. 1, In Front 3rd Loop, HDCinc, HDC across (94)

87. Ch. 1, BLO HDC across, HDC inc in last st (95)

88. Ch. 1, In Front 3rd Loop, HDCinc, HDC across, leaving remaining 2 Sts unworked (94)

Celtic Weave Section

 89. Ch. 2, *Sk2 Sts, TR in next 2 Sts. Then work next TR into each of the previously skipped Sts.* Repeat from * to * across, TR 2, TR and DC into last st. 

90. Ch.2, and TR into same St. BPTR around next St. *BPTR around next 2 Hidden Sts. Going between the previously made Sts. BPTR around each of the previous 2 skipped sts.* Repeat from * to * across. BPTR 2, DC in last St. 

91. Ch.2, Sk 2 sts, FPTR around each of next 2 BPTR of previous row. FPTR around Skipped Sts from previous row. *Sk 2 Sts. FPTR around next 2 Sts. Then FPTR around each of the previously 2 skipped Sts* Repeat from * to * across, place TR and DC into last st.

92. Ch.2, and TR into same St. BPTR around next st. BPTR around the next 2 Hidden Sts. *Sk2Sts, BPTR around next 2 Hidden Sts. Going between the previously made Sts. BPTR around each of the previous 2 skipped sts.* Repeat from * to * across. BPTR 2, DC in last St.

93. Ch.2, Sk 2 sts, FPTR around each of next 2 BPTR of previous row. FPTR around Skipped Sts from previous row. *Sk 2 Sts. FPTR around next 2 Sts. Then FPTR around each of the previously 2 skipped Sts* Repeat from * to * across. FPTR 2, Place TR and DC into last st

94. Repeat Row 90

95. Repeat Row 91

96. Repeat Row 92

95. Repeat Row 93

96. Repeat Row 90

97. Ch.1, HDC across into each st. HDCinc in last St.

If you would like your Shawl to be longer/larger, you should easily be able to work more of the sections you like, with minor adjustments.

Finishing Border

Picot: Ch. 3, SlSt into Rear loop of 1st Ch made. 

Turn 90* & Sc, Ch. 1, Sc into same space. Sc around evenly for border. Placing Sc, Picot, Sc into each point/corner, and Dec in each “inner” corner/step between sections-where 2 sts were left unworked.

From here you can choose to leave your shawl as is, or you can block it for a very nice finish like I did.

Pattern Declaimer

Thank You So much for your support and purchase of this pattern.

Items made from this pattern may be sold, though I do request a mention of my name @CrystalsCritterCreations

***There is absolutely no selling or sharing of this pattern as it is protected by Copyright and 100% my own creation and owned by me.***

 

 

Occasionally a mistake or typo falls through, please report them via email (help@yarnbitsshop.com) and the pattern will be updated accordingly.

 

Posted on by

CM May 2021 Ra-Ra Raffia Market Bag

Ra-Ra Raffia Market Bag

May 2021 CrochetMastery
Skill Level: Intermediate
Hook Size: H/5mm

Ra-Ra Raffia yarn is an interesting yarn to work with. It is a wood fiber yarn that is water repellant. It can’t be washed but because it’s water repellant, it is easy to wipe down as needed. This yarn is ideal for a market bag for your veggies and other farmer market goodies… but to be safe, don’t use it for heavy items. It’s also perfect for carrying your crochet project if your smaller items are secured in a zip bag!

In this box, there is: 

  • 2 skeins of Wool and the Gang Ra-Ra Raffia – $40
  • Handmade by Lauren Stitch Markers – $6 
  • Size H/5mm Crochet Hook OR extra Stitch Marker- $3
  • Exclusive Pattern and Support- $10

Plus all the subscribers perks! 

Note about pictures of finished project- 

They will be available on the website and FB group mid-second week of May! 

Crochet market bag

Stitches/Abbreviation Guide:

Yarn Over (yo); Space (sp); Stitch (st); Skip (sk); Loop (lp)

Chain (ch): with one lp on hook, yo and pull through the lp on hook

Slip Stitch (sl st): insert hook into target sp, yo and pull through sp AND lp on hook

Single Crochet (sc): insert hook in target sp, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through both loops on hook

Half Double Crochet (hdc): yo, insert hook in target sp, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through all loops on hook

Double Crochet (dc): yo, insert hook in target sp, yo and pull through st, [yo and pull through 2 loops] two times. 

 

Falling Leaf Stitch (leaf stitch): 

  1. [yo, insert hook from right to left under designated column below, yo, draw up a long loop to the height of the current row] twice, 
  2. yo and pull through 4 loops on hook, 
  3. yo and pull through last two loops

Double Crochet 2 Together Cluster (dc2tog cluster): 

  1. yo, insert hook into designated sp, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through 2 loops on hook, 
  2. yo, insert hook into same sp, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through 2 loops on hook
  3. yo and pull through all loops on hook

Yarn and Pattern Notes

Ra-Ra Raffia yarn does get twisted a bit as you pull it from the center or from the outside. It’s your choice whether you untwist it or not as you go along. The fabric looks good either way! 

The pattern is worked from base to body to the straps. The base is more “solid” fabric with an straightforward circular increase. The body features a mix of mesh and a fun stitch called “Falling Leaves” that gives it texture.

One skein gets the entire base and most of the first section of the body completed. The 2nd skein is for the remaining body and the straps. 

Base

Dimensions: 13.5 inches diameter, including non-increasing rounds 22-29

Round 1: 

  • With size H hook, ch 2. 
  • 10 sc in 3rd ch from hook. 
  • Sl st to first sc. 

Stitches Count: 10 sc 

Round 2: 

  • Ch 1, 2 sc in same sp
  • 2 sc in each sp around
  • Sl st to first sc. 

Stitches Count: 20 sc 

Round 3: 

  • Ch 1, sc in same sp, 2 sc in next sp
  • Repeat [1 sc in next sp, 2 sc in next sp] around
  • Sl st to first sc. 

Stitches Count: 30 sc 

Round 4: Ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each sp around. Sl st to first sc. Stitches Count: 30 sc 

Round 5: 

  • Ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in next sp, 2 sc in next sp, 
  • Repeat [1 sc in next 2 sp, 2 sc in next sp] around
  • Sl st to first sc. 

Stitches Count: 40 sc 

Round 6:Ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each sp around. Sl st to first sc. 

Stitches Count: 40 sc 

Round 7: 

  • Ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in next 2 sp, 2 sc in next sp, 
  • Repeat [1 sc in next 3 sp, 2 sc in next sp] around
  • Sl st to first sc. 

Stitches Count: 50 sc 

Round 8: Ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each sp around. Sl st to first sc. 

Stitches Count: 50 sc

Round 9: continue pattern with 4 sc between 2-sc clusters; Stitches Count: 60 sc 

Round 10: Ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each sp around. Sl st to first sc; Stitches Count: 60 sc 

Round 11: continue pattern with 5 sc between 2-sc clusters; Stitches Count: 70 sc

Round 12: Ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each sp around. Sl st to first sc; Stitches Count: 70 sc 

Round 13: continue pattern with 6 sc between 2-sc clusters; Stitches Count: 80 sc

Round 14: Ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each sp around. Sl st to first sc; Stitches Count: 80 sc 

Round 15: continue pattern with 7 sc between 2-sc clusters; Stitches Count: 90 sc

Round 16: Ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each sp around. Sl st to first sc; Stitches Count: 90 sc 

Round 17: continue pattern with 8 sc between 2-sc clusters; Stitches Count: 100 sc

Round 18: Ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each sp around. Sl st to first sc; Stitches Count: 100 sc 

Round 19: continue pattern with 9 sc between 2-sc clusters; Stitches Count: 110 sc

Round 20: Ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each sp around. Sl st to first sc; Stitches Count: 110 sc 

Round 21: continue pattern with 10 sc between 2-sc clusters; Stitches Count: 120 sc

Round 22-29: Ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each sp around. Sl st to first sc; Stitches Count: 120 sc 

Body

Dimensions: Each set of Body Round 1-11 is ~6 inches tall

Body Round 1: (Mesh round)

  • Ch 7,
  • Repeat [sk next 3 sp, dc in next, ch 4] around to last 3 sp
  • Skip last 3 sp, sl st to 3rd ch on beg ch

Stitches Count: 30 dc with ch 4 between each

 

Body Round 2: (sc round)

  • Turn (to keep work straight).
  • Ch 1, sc in same sp,
  • Repeat [3 sc in each ch-4 sp, 1 sc in dc sp] around
  • Sl st to first sc

Stitches Count: 120 sc

 

Body Round 3: (Leaves Round)

  • Turn
  • Sl st into next 2 sp (to middle sp of 3 sc cluster)
  • Ch 5 (counts as dc + ch 2), sk next 2 sp
  • *Leaf Stitch around next column from Body Round 1
  • Ch 2**, sk first sp of next 3 sc cluster, dc in next sp, ch 2
  • Repeat from * around, working the leaf stitch around all columns from Body Round 1 and a dc between each
  • Ending at **, sl st to 3rd ch of beg ch

Stitches Count: 30 Leaf Stitches, 30 dc, and ch 2 sps between all. 

 

Body Round 4:  (sc round)

  • Turn (to keep work straight).
  • Ch 1, sc in same sp,
  • Repeat [1 sc in each ch-2 sp, 1 sc in dc or falling leaf st sp] around
  • Sl st to first sc

Stitches Count: 120 sc

 

Body Round 5: (Leaves Round)

  • Turn
  • Sl st into next 2 sp (to sp above Leaf Stitch completed)
  • Ch 5 (counts as dc + ch 2), sk next 2 sp
  • *Leaf Stitch around next column from Body Round 1
  • Ch 2**, sk first sp of next 3 sc cluster, dc in next sp, ch 2
  • Repeat from * around, working the leaf stitch around all columns from Body Round 1 and a dc between each
  • Ending at **, sl st to 3rd ch of beg ch

Stitches Count: 30 Leaf Stitches, 30 dc, and ch 2 sps between all. 

 

Body Round 6: Repeat Body Round 4

Body Round 7: Repeat Body Round 5

Body Round 8: Repeat Body Round 4

 

NOTE: The next section is optional! You can continue with repeats of Body round 4 and 5 until your desired height for the body is reached OR if you want more “solid sections” between mesh sections, complete Body Round 9-10.

 

Body Round 9: (dc2tog cluster round)

  • Ch 2, dc in same sp (count as dc2tog cluster)
  • dc2tog cluster in each sp around
  • Sl st to first st

Stitches Count: 120 dc2tog cluster

 

Body Round 10: Repeat Body Round 9

Body Round 11: Repeat Body Round 4


Repeat Body Round 1-11 with the last repeat ending at Body Round 8 until you reach your desired height OR when the yarn is MOSTLY used up. Not a lot is needed for the straps so just evaluate how much is left after each section. 

Straps

After completing the last section of the body and ending on Body Round 8, the straps rounds can be completed.

Straps Round 1: 

  • Turn, ch 1, sc in same sp
  • Sc in each of next 39 sp, 
  • Ch 60 (or add more stitches if you want the straps to be longer)
  • Sk next 20 sp, 
  • Sc in next 40 sp, 
  • Ch same number of stitches as other side
  • Sk next 20
  • Sl st to first sc

 

Straps Round 2: 

  • Sl st into next sp, 
  • ch 1, sc2tog in same sp and next
  • *Sc in each sp until last 3 sp on bag body prior to strap start
  • sc2tog over next 2 sp, 
  • Sc2tog over next sp and 1st ch on strap, 
  • Sc2tog over next 2 ch,
  • Sc in each ch to last 3 ch sp, 
  • Sc2tog over next 2 ch**,
  • Sc2tog over next ch and 1st sp on second body section, 
  • sc2tog over next 2 sp,
  • Repeat from * to **
  • Sc2tog over next ch and last sc on 1st body section
  • Sl st to first st

 

Straps Round 3: 

  • Sl st into next sp, 
  • Ch 2, dc in same sp (count as dc2tog cluster)
  • *dc2tog cluster in each sp to next sc2tog sp from previous round
  • Keeping all loops on hook, complete the below for each of the next 3 sp
    • yo, insert hook into designated sp, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through 2 loops on hook, 
    • yo, insert hook into same sp, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through 2 loops on hook
  • There should be 6 total loops on the hook. yo and pull through all loops on hook- completed the 3 sets of dc2tog clusters into one sp
  • Repeat from * around, the 3 dc3tog cluster decreases are completed at each “corner”
  • Sl st to first st

 

Straps Round 4: 

  • ch 1, sc in same sp
  • Sc in each sp around
  • Sl st to first sc, 
  • Fasten off and weave in ends!

Pattern Declaimer

This is a paid pattern originally designed for a Yarn Bits Shop subscription box. 

You have permission to sell any item made from this pattern. However, you are not allowed to resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern or downloads in any printed or digital form (in full), or to claim the pattern as your own original design. If you want to sell or share a picture of your work from this pattern, please clearly credit the design to me: Lauren Samar of Yarn Bits Shop (with link to the website when applicable). 

Occasionally a mistake or typo falls through, please report them via email (help@yarnbitsshop.com) and the pattern will be updated accordingly.

Posted on by

CM January 2021: Hoooked Spiral Rug

Hoooked Spiral Rug

January 2021 CrochetMastery

Designed by Lauren Samar for Yarn Bits Shop

Feel free to email for pattern help or questions: help@yarnbitsshop.com

January 2021- CrochetMastery: Hoooked Spiral Rug

Skill Level: Intermediate to Intermediate-Advanced

Hook Size: 10mm

Hoooked Yarns is mainly known for their recycled t-shirt/fabrics yarn and it is a really fun yarn to work with for larger projects that do not need to be very flexible. This yarn is perfect for a rug and the pattern features several spirals! The continuous spiral technique is ideal for fewer ends to weave in with color changes as well as less seams with the round changes.The gauge is NOT provided in the pattern BUT a ROUGH dimension is due to the nature of the yarn- even the same batch can vary a bit with thickness and stretchiness.The main thing to focus on is continuously checking that it is not too warped after each round- this will ensure that the rug finishes flat enough for usage! 

In this box, there is: 

  • 3 skeins of Hoooked Zpagetti Yarns, 2 in one color and 1 in another color- $33
  • Size M/10mm Crochet Hook- $5
  • Handmade by Lauren Stitch Markers – $6 
  • Exclusive Pattern and Support- $10

Included in your subscription:

  • VIP membership- $15/month
  • Monthly Masterclass- $50-100/month
  • Exclusive Facebook Group- $150+/month (but connections are priceless!)
    • More excitement coming soon! 
  • Yarn Bits Shop Hub access 

Stitches/Abbreviation Guide:

Yarn Over (yo); Space (sp); Stitch (st); Skip (sk); Loop (lp)

Chain (ch): with one lp on hook, yo and pull through the lp on hook

Slip Stitch (sl st): insert hook into target sp, yo and pull through sp AND lp on hook

Single Crochet (sc): insert hook into target sp, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through both lps on hook

Single Crochet Two Together (sc2tog): insert hook into first target sp, yo and pull through sp, insert hook into second target sp, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through all lps on hook

Single Crochet Three Together (sc3tog): insert hook into first target sp, yo and pull through sp, insert hook into second target sp, yo and pull through sp, insert hook into third target sp, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through all lps on hook

Half Double Crochet (hdc): yo, insert hook into target sp, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through all three lps on hook

Double Crochet (dc): yo, insert hook into target sp, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook two times

Overall Layout Notes

Prior to starting the below motifs, decide the general layout of the rug. Due to the nature of the yarn, an exact size cannot be determined with the amount of yarn due to the yarn variations in thickness/stretchiness. With the yarn included, 4 continuous spirals can be made (with the spiral being obvious in the pattern) and they can be attached in a 2×2 pattern and the center filled. 

Smaller circles with 1-3 less rounds prior to the border round can also be made by following the patterns and ending them earlier. With this option, more circles can be created and laid out in 2×3 pattern instead of a square. The center gap is filled but the edges stay rounded. However-the outside valleys can be filled optionally with the border rounds 

Another alternative is to work one large circle in the pattern- the continuous spiral with three strands is recommended in this case. Or even two large circles attached at the sides for a 1×2 rug is an option.

Continuous Spiral- Two Strands 

This version uses two of the three skeins- one of each so that the spiral is visible. The main stitch here is half double crochet. Check if there is warping after each round by laying the circle on a flat surface and ensure it is flat. If it is warped, either undo the previous round and do a round of NO increases (like Round 6) then go back and complete the round skipped since the numbers should remain the same. 

As mentioned in the overall notes, smaller circles can be made- work desired number of rounds and then the finishing round. 

Make a magic ring with yarn 1.

Round 1: 

  • With yarn 1: 
    • ch 2, 4 hdc in ring. 
    • Drop loop from hook, place stitch marker in loop if desired. 
  • With yarn 2: 
    • sl st into ring and ch 2
    • hdc 4 in ring
  • Continuing with yarn 2:
    • 3 hdc around the beg ch of yarn 1. 
    • Drop loop from hook, place marker in loop if desired. 
  • Picking up yarn 1 loop, 3 hdc around beg ch of yarn 2. 

Stitches Count: 7 st of each color / 14 hdc total

 

Round 2:

  • With each strand:
    • skip first hdc immediately after the beg ch
    • 2 hdc in each of next 6 sp
    • Drop loop from hook, place marker in loop if desired. 

Stitches Count: 12 st of each color / 24 hdc total

 

Round 3:

  • With each strand:
    • {1 hdc in next, 2 hdc in next} 6 times
    • Drop loop from hook, place marker in loop if desired. 

Stitches Count: 18 st of each color / 36 hdc total

 

Round 4:

  • With each strand:
    • {1 hdc in next 2, 2 dc in next} 6 times
    • Drop loop from hook, place marker in loop if desired. 

Stitches Count: 24 st of each color / 48 hdc total

 

Round 5:

  • With each strand:
    • {1 hdc in next 3, 2 dc in next} 6 times
    • Drop loop from hook, place marker in loop if desired. 

Stitches Count: 30 st of each color / 60 hdc total

 

Round 6:

  • With each strand:
    • 1 hdc in next 30 sp (no increases)
    • Drop loop from hook, place marker in loop if desired. 

Stitches Count: 30 st of each color / 60 hdc total

 

Round 7:

  • With each strand:
    • {1 hdc in next 4, 2 dc in next} 6 times
    • Drop loop from hook, place marker in loop if desired. 

Stitches Count: 36 st of each color / 72 hdc total

 

Round 8: 

  • With each strand:
    • 1 hdc in next 36 sp (no increases)
    • Drop loop from hook, place marker in loop if desired. 

Stitches Count: 36 st of each color / 72 hdc total

 

Finishing Round: 

  • For each yarn strand: hdc in next, sc in next, sl st in next 2
  • If the printed yarn was used, fasten off. If both were the solid yarns, fasten off one of them. 
  • With remaining strand and NOT joining with other circles, 
    • ch 1, sc in same sp 
    • sc in each sp around
    • sl st to first sc and fasten off. 
  • If this circle is ready to be joined with the other motifs,
    • ch 1, sc in same sp 
    • sc in each sp to joining sps
    • Join with 4 sts (repeat steps below 4 times). 
      • Joining steps: Drop loop from hook, pick up space on other circle from top to bottom, pick up loop and pull through sp, sc in next sp of working circle
      • There should be 14 sp between the 4 joining sp on a circle
    • Continue with sc in each sp to end of round
    • sl st to first sc and fasten off

Stitches Count: 72 sc total

Continuous Spiral- Three Strands 

This version uses all three skeins to create a “thicker” spiral. The main stitch for this spiral is dc. Check if there is warping after each round by laying the circle on a flat surface and ensure it is flat. If it is warped, either undo the previous round and do a round of NO increases (like Round 6) then go back and complete the round skipped since the numbers should remain the same. 

 

As mentioned in the overall notes, smaller circles can be made- work desired number of rounds and then the finishing round. This pattern is also ideal for a single large circle rug if desired- continue pattern of increasing rounds and no increasing rounds until all yarn is used up or desired size is reached. 

Make a magic ring with yarn 1.

Round 1: 

  • With yarn 1: 
    • ch 3, 3 dc in ring. 
    • Drop loop from hook, place stitch marker in loop if desired. 
  • With yarn 2: 
    • sl st into ring and ch 3
    • dc 3 in ring
    • Drop loop from hook, place stitch marker in loop if desired. 
  • With yarn 3:
    •  sl st into ring and ch 3
    • dc 3 in ring
    • Drop loop from hook, place stitch marker in loop if desired. 
  • Continuing with yarn 3:
    • 2 dc around the beg ch of yarn 1. 
    • Drop loop from hook, place marker in loop if desired. 
  • Picking up yarn 1 loop, 2 dc around beg ch of yarn 2. 
  • Picking up yarn 2 loop, 2 dc around beg ch of yarn 3. 

Stitches Count: 5 st of each color / 15 dc total

 

Round 2:

  • With each strand:
    • 2 dc in each of next 5 sp
    • Drop loop from hook, place marker in loop if desired. 

Stitches Count: 10 st of each color / 30 dc total

 

Round 3:

  • With each strand:
    • {1 dc in next, 2 dc in next} 5 times
    • Drop loop from hook, place marker in loop if desired. 

Stitches Count: 15 st of each color / 45 dc total

 

Round 4:

  • With each strand:
    • {1 dc in next 2, 2 dc in next} 5 times
    • Drop loop from hook, place marker in loop if desired. 

Stitches Count: 20 st of each color / 60 dc total

 

Round 5:

  • With each strand:
    • {1 dc in next 3, 2 dc in next} 5 times
    • Drop loop from hook, place marker in loop if desired. 

Stitches Count: 25 st of each color / 75 dc total

 

Round 6:

  • With each strand:
    • dc in next 25 sp
    • Drop loop from hook, place marker in loop if desired. 

Stitches Count: 25 st of each color / 75 dc total

 

Finishing Round: 

  • For each yarn strand: dc in next, hdc in next, sc in next, sl st in next 2
  • Fasten off the printed strand and one of the solid strands. 
  • With remaining strand and NOT joining with other circles, 
    • ch 1, sc in same sp 
    • sc in each sp around
    • sl st to first sc and fasten off. 
  • If this circle is ready to be joined with the other motifs,
    • ch 1, sc in same sp 
    • sc in each sp to joining sps
    • Join with 4 sts (repeat steps below 4 times). 
      • Joining steps: Drop loop from hook, pick up space on other circle from top to bottom, pick up loop and pull through sp, sc in next sp of working circle
      • There should be 14-15 sp between the 4 joining sp on a circle (whatever looks better and makes sense with the circles you have)
    • Continue with sc in each sp to end of round
    • sl st to first sc and fasten off

Stitches Count: 75 sc total

Finishing Overall Rug

Once all desired circles have been made and joined along the way (with second and on circles), there may be a gap at the middle of circles if multiple circles were used. Use the following guidelines to fill in the gap(s)- it is not an exact number of stitches due to variations in size as desired.

Gap Round 1: 

  • sl st into any sp in the middle of a side, ch 1 and sc in same sp
  • *sc in each sp until 3 sp before point (where circles were joined)
  • sc2tog over next 2 sp
  • sc2tog with sp on current side before point and sp on other side of point
  • sc2tog over next 2 sp**
  • Repeat from * to ** around through all points 
  • sc in each sp to beg sc, sl st to beg sc



Gap Round 2:

  • ch 1, sc in same sp
  • *sc in each sp until 1 sp before center of point st
  • sc3tog over next sp, center sp, and sp on next side
  • Repeat from * around
  • sl st to beg sc

Repeat Gap Round 2 until it’s just a circle in the gap. Divide the number of sp by 2 and complete sc-tog with half of the remaining sp twice (sc4tog for example). Divide by 3 if needed. 

 

Fasten off and weave in ends. Repeat gap work for all gaps. 

 

A border can be worked for the whole outside edge of the rug and curve out the points (where circles meet) by following this general pattern: 

  • sl st into any sp, ch 1 and sc in same sp
  • *Work inc section according to last inc round of spiral to 3 sp prior to point
    • For example, if last round of increases was {1 hdc/dc in each of next 4 sp, 2 hdc/dc in next}, this round should be +1 of the number stitches between the 2 hdc/dc or {1 sc in each of next 5 sp, 2 sc in next}
    • Check for warping, add more increases sp (2 sc) evenly spread out as needed! 
  • Work decreases at point: 
    • FIRST ROUND of border ONLY: sc2tog over next 2 sp prior to point, sc2tog over next 2 sp over point (1 sp on either side), sc2tog over next 2 sp
    • SECOND ROUND of border and so forth: sc2tog over next 2 sp prior to point, sc3tog over next 3 sp over point (1 sp on either side and center sp), sc2tog over next 2 sp. 
      • If it’s starting to warp too much, sc2tog may not be needed on either side of sc3tog at center. 
  • Repeat from * around, check for warping.
    • If it is curving up, more increases may be needed. 
    • If it is warping, the increasing round is not needed. 
    • The goal is to make it flat and due to the nature of the yarn, it just needs to be checked continuously.

Pattern Declaimer

This is a paid pattern originally designed for a Yarn Bits Shop subscription box. 

You have permission to sell any item made from this pattern. However, you are not allowed to resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern or downloads in any printed or digital form (in full), or to claim the pattern as your own original design. If you want to sell or share a picture of your work from this pattern, please clearly credit the design to me: Lauren Samar of Yarn Bits Shop (with link to the website when applicable). 

Occasionally a mistake or typo falls through, please report them via email (help@yarnbitsshop.com) and the pattern will be updated accordingly.

Posted on by

March 2021 – CrochetMastery Bavarian Crochet Placemats/Tablerunner

Bavarian Crochet Placemats/Tablerunner

March 2021 CrochetMastery

Designed by Lauren Samar for Yarn Bits Shop

Feel free to email for pattern help or questions: help@yarnbitsshop.com

March 2021- CrochetMastery

Bavarian Crochet Placemats/Tablerunner

Skill Level: Intermediate to Intermediate-Advanced

Hook Size: I/5.5mm

Bavarian Crochet is a technique composed of two round repeats- the clusters round and the shell round. The resulting texture and fabric looks like diamonds outlined and it’s a great technique for color work. While it is most commonly worked in rounds, it can be adjusted for rows. The patterns below are adjustable to the size rectangles you would like AND can be used for other patterns like scarves, cowl, blankets, and more. There are also details about setting up for a square instead of a rectangle at the end for your reference for other patterns (blankets, motifs, pillows, flat doily, etc). Also at the end, there is a list of ideas for utilizing this technique.

In this box, there is: 

  • 3 skeins of Red Heart Hygge Charm in three colors- $30
  • Size I/5.5mm Crochet Hook- $4
  • Handmade by Lauren Stitch Markers – $6 
  • Darning Needle (in envelope!) 
  • Exclusive Pattern and Support- $10
  • Plus all the subscribers perks!

Stitches/Abbreviation Guide:

Yarn Over (yo); Space (sp); Stitch (st); Skip (sk); Loop (lp)

Chain (ch): with one lp on hook, yo and pull through the lp on hook

Slip Stitch (sl st): insert hook into target sp, yo and pull through sp AND lp on hook

Single Crochet (sc): insert hook in target sp, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through both loops on hook

Triple Crochet (tr): yo twice, insert hook in target sp, yo and pull through st, [yo and pull through 2 loops] three times. 

Small Shell (sm shell): (4 tr, ch 1, 4 tr) in target space

Large Shell (lg shell): (4 tr, {ch 1, 4 tr} twice) in target space

4-triple cluster (4-tr cl): *yo twice, insert hook in target sp, yo and pull through st, [yo and pull through 2 loops] two times (leaving last loop of st on hook)**, repeat from * to ** 3 more times, yo and pull through all loops on hook. 

4-back post triple decrease (4-bptr dec): *yo twice, insert hook from front to back of post to work around then insert hook from front to back on other side of post (picking up post as space), yo and pull through sp, [yo and pull through 2 loops] two times (leaving last loop of st on hook)**, repeat from * to ** for the next three posts, yo and pull through all loops on hook. 

8-back post triple decrease (8-bptr dec): *yo twice, insert hook from front to back of post to work around then insert hook from front to back on other side of post (picking up post as space), yo and pull through sp, [yo and pull through 2 loops] two times (leaving last loop of st on hook)**, repeat from * to ** for the next seven posts, yo and pull through all loops on hook. 

Pattern Notes

The above stitches are ALL the stitches needed for the patterns. Once you are used to the shells and clusters, it is rhythmic. What makes it easier to remember what goes where is (when working in rounds): 

  • 8-bptr dec are used on edges only
    • These are the bottom half of the diamond between corners
    • This FILLS the space between shells
  • sm shells are used on edges only. 
    • These are the top half of the diamond between corners.
    • This ADDS space to width/length.
  • 4-bptr dec are used at corners only 
    • These are ¼ of the NEW diamonds at corners, adding to the total number of diamonds per side. 
  • lg shells are used at corners only
    • These are ¾ of NEW diamonds at corners. 

 

For any size rectangular Bavarian Crochet patterns, the beginning ch is a multiple of 10 + 2. 

 

For square patterns, the beginning is different but once you get past the set-up, the pattern for squares and rectangles are the same.

 

For these patterns, the color order is repeated (color 1, 2, 3, 1, 2, 3, etc) until desired size is reached. BUT with Bavarian crochet, there’s many opportunities to explore color changes.  

Yarn Amounts Notes

With three skeins of Red Heart Hygge Charm, you can make 4 placemats safely with the same color order. You MAY be able to make up to 6 if you rotate the color you start with so the amounts are used up evenly across the rounds and placemats. For example the color order is always the same (1 then 2 then 3 then 1, etc) but placemats 1 and 2 start with color 1, placemats 3 and 4 start with color 2, and placemats 5 and 6 start with color 3. 

If a longer table runner is desired, roughly 60-70 inches would use up all the yarn to create a 14 inch wide runner. 

Small Rectangle // Placemats 

With color 1, ch 32 (3 multiples of 10 + 2). 

 

Foundation Round: 

  • sc in 2nd ch from hook, 
  • *sk next 4 chs, sm shell in next ch, sk next 4 chs, sc in next ch**, 
  • repeat from * to ** to last ch, 
  • working on the OPPOSITE side of the ch (turn your work to bottom of ch)- sk first 5 ch
  • *sm shell in next ch (same sp as other side’s shell), sk next 4 chs, sc in next ch, 
  • repeat from * until all same amount of shells are completed on both sides
  • sk last 5 ch,
  • sl st to beg sc
  • fasten off color 1

Stitches Count: 6 sm shells, 6 sc

Round 1: 

  • With the next color, sl st to first sc of previous 
  • ch 5, 4-bptr dec, ch 5, sc in next ch-1 sp (top of shell)
    • Corner cluster completed 
  • (ch 5, 8-bptr dec, ch 5, sc in next ch-1 sp) two times 
    • Edge clusters completed
    • To make this more generic for length: the number of shells per side from foundation round minus 1 repeat is completed here. SO if you are doing 10 shells on the foundation round, 9 edge clusters are completed here. 
  • (ch 5, 4 bptr dec, ch 5, sc in next ch-1 sp) two times 
    • Corner 2 and 3 clusters completed
  • (ch 5, 8-bptr dec, ch 5, sc in next ch-1 sp) two times 
    • Opposite edge clusters completed
  • ch 5, 4-bptr dec, ch 5, sl st to beg sc
    • Last corner cluster completed
  • Do not fasten off

Stitches Count: 8 sc, 4 8-bptr dec, 4 4-bptr dec

Round 2: 

  • ch 1, sc in first sc
  • lg shell in top of 4-bptr dec (the corner), sc in next sc,
    • Corner 1 completed
  • (sm shell in top of 8-bptr dec sp, sc in next sc) twice 
    • Or repeat until sc before next corner 
    • Edge shells completed
  • (lg shell in top of 4-bptr dec, sc in next sc) twice
    • Corners 2 and 3 completed
  • (sm shell in top of 8-bptr dec sp, sc in next sc) twice 
    • Or repeat until sc before next corner 
    • Opposite edge shells completed
  • lg shell in top of 4-bptr dec (the corner), sl st to beg sc
    • Corner 4 completed
  • Fasten off.

Stitches Count: 8 sc, 4 lg shells, 4 sm shells

 

Round 3: 

  • With next color, sl st to ch 1 sp of first corner shell (first ch-1 of lg shell), sc in same sp,
  • ch 5, 4-bptr dec, ch 5, sc in next ch 1 sp (2nd ch-1 sp of lg shell)
    • Corner 1 cluster completed
  • (ch 5, 8-bptr dec, ch 5, sc in next ch-1 sp) three times 
    • Or until you reach first ch-1 sp of next lg shell
    • Long edge 1 clusters completed
  • ch 5, 4-bptr dec, ch 5, sc in next ch-1 sp (2nd ch-1 sp of lg shell)
    • Corner 2 cluster completed
  • ch 5, 8-bptr dec, ch 5, sc in next ch-1 sp 
    • Short edge 1 clusters completed
  • ch 5, 4-bptr dec, ch 5, sc in next ch-1 sp (2nd ch-1 sp of lg shell)
    • Corner 3 clusters completed
  • (ch 5, 8-bptr dec, ch 5, sc in next ch-1 sp) three times 
    • Or until you reach first ch-1 sp of next lg shell
    • Long edge 2 clusters completed
  • ch 5, 4-bptr dec, ch 5, sc in next ch-1 sp (2nd ch-1 sp of lg shell)
    • Corner 4 clusters completed
  • ch 5, 8-bptr dec, ch 5, sl st to beg sc 
    • Short edge 2 clusters completed

Stitches Count: 12 sc, 8 8-bptr dec, 4 4-bptr dec

 

Round 4: 

  • ch 1, sc in first sc
  • lg shell in top of 4-bptr dec (the corner), sc in next sc,
    • Corner 1 completed
  • (sm shell in top of 8-bptr dec sp, sc in next sc) three times 
    • Or repeat until sc before next corner 
    • Long edge 1 shells completed
  • lg shell in top of 4-bptr dec, sc in next sc
    • Corner 2 completed
  • sm shell in top of 8-bptr dec sp, sc in next sc
    • Short edge 1 shells completed
  • lg shell in top of 4-bptr dec, sc in next sc
    • Corner 3 completed
  • (sm shell in top of 8-bptr dec sp, sc in next sc) three times
    • Or repeat until sc before next corner 
    • Long edge 2 shells completed
  • lg shell in top of 4-bptr dec, sc in next sc
    • Corner 4 completed
  • sm shell in top of 8-bptr dec sp, sl st to beg sc
    • Short edge 1 shells completed
  • Fasten off.

Stitches Count: 4 lg shells, 8 sm shells

 

Repeat Rounds 3 and 4 until desired size is reached. The pattern ends on a shell round. 

 

Each pair of rounds adds one sm shell per side. 

 

For a placemat- 10 rounds (5 pairs of rounds after foundation round) with Red Heart Hygge Charm yarn and size I hook will create a placemat with a dimension of ~17 by ~14 inches.

Long Rectangle // Table runner 

This pattern is a repeat of the small rectangle pattern but with more shells per long side to start (instead of 3 diamonds at center). 

 

With the Red Heart Hygge Charm yarn and size I hook, each multiple of 10 adds about 2 inches to the beginning length. The foundation round + 10 rounds (5 pairs of cluster and shell rounds) adds 12 inches to the length. So if you want a 50 inch long table runner, your beg chain should be a multiple of 10 + 2 that is approximately 38 inches long. This chain (based on the gauge and dimensions) will be 192 chains with 19 shells on either side of the ch for the foundation round. 

Square center 

With color 1, ch 5 and sl to first ch to create a ring.

 

Round 1: 

  • ch 1, 
  • (sc in ring, ch 5, 4-tr cl in ring, ch 5) 4 times
  • sl st to beg sc
  • fasten off color 1

Stitches Count: 8 ch-5 sp, 4 sc, 4 4-tr cl

 

Round 2: 

Note: ch-2s in this round are only used here to create height and will not be worked into in later rounds. 

  • ch 1, sc in first sc
  • ch 2, lg shell in top of next 4-tr cl sp, ch 2
  • (sc in next sc, ch 2, lg shell in top of next 4-tr cl sp, ch 2) three times
  • sl st to beg sc and fasten off

Stitches Count: 8 ch-2 sp, 4 lg shells, 4 sc

 

Round 3: 

  • With next color, sl st to ch 1 sp of first corner shell (first ch-1 of lg shell), sc in same sp,
  • *ch 5, 4-bptr dec, ch 5, sc in next ch 1 sp (2nd ch-1 sp of lg shell)
    • Corner 1 cluster completed
  • ch 5, 8-bptr dec, ch 5, sc in next ch-1 sp** 
    • Edge 1 clusters completed
  • Repeat from * to ** around, skipping last sc of repat
  •  sl st to beg sc

Stitches Count: 8 sc, 4 8-bptr dec, 4 4-bptr dec

 

Round 4: 

  • ch 1, sc in first sc
  • *lg shell in top of 4-bptr dec (the corner), sc in next sc,
    • Corner 1 completed
  • sm shell in top of 8-bptr dec sp, sc in next sc** 
    • Edge 1 completed
  • Repeat from * to ** around, skipping last sc of repat
  • sl st to beg sc
  • Fasten off.

Stitches Count: 4 lg shells, 4 sm shells

 

Repeat rounds 3 and 4 until desired size is reached. Each pair of rounds adds one sm shell per side. 

Ideas for Projects with Bavarian Crochet

 

With the above techniques, you have MANY options for projects utilizing Bavarian Crochet. Besides placemats and table runner, below is a list of ideas. 

 

Square Motifs for Blanket

Center-out blanket of either Square or Rectangular shape

Square/Rectangle Pillow Covers– end on a cluster round to get flat edges and sew together THEN use a shell round to create an edge of the cover. 

Use cotton yarn to create a hotplate mat 

Scarf– Set up with very long beg ch, complete foundation round for rectangle, then 1-3 pairs of rounds. 

Turning at ends of round to create different textures of same patterns.

Email us at help@yarnbitsshop.com with any questions!

Back of Bavarian Crochet view- it looks pretty on both sides!

Pattern Declaimer

This is a paid pattern originally designed for a Yarn Bits Shop subscription box. 

You have permission to sell any item made from this pattern. However, you are not allowed to resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern or downloads in any printed or digital form (in full), or to claim the pattern as your own original design. If you want to sell or share a picture of your work from this pattern, please clearly credit the design to me: Lauren Samar of Yarn Bits Shop (with link to the website when applicable). 

Occasionally a mistake or typo falls through, please report them via email (help@yarnbitsshop.com) and the pattern will be updated accordingly.