Floral Bottle Carrier with Hard Bottom
June 2020 QuickProjects
This project features one main stitch and it’s a basic one. But what makes it interesting and challenging is the
construction of it. A bottle carrier, featuring a summery print and the normal 6 spaces, can be used to go to an outing with drinks, or to the farmer’s market for jars or small veggies, or as decoration on your counter for the various jars your kitchen contains. Read the pattern notes prior to making any parts to understand the order of construction since that is key to being successful.
Floral Bottle Carrier with Hard Bottom Pattern
Supplies: One skein of Premier Bloom and one skein of Premier Home Cotton Small, Size F hook, 2 pieces of 9×6″ plastic canvas, needle, stitch markers
Skill: Stitches are Easy but construction is Intermediate-Advanced
Gauge: 13 rows of 11 sc = 2 in x 2 in
Dimensions: about 9 x 6 x 4.5 high inches (without handles included in height)
Pattern Notes: The bottle carrier mainly features single crochet so the stitching itself is not difficult. However, the order of construction is extremely important to be successful and it may be a bit confusing. But follow the order on the pages 2-9 and the breakdown will make it easier.
Base Pieces (Top and Bottom)
Note: tight chain helps avoid twisting BUT if this is not the case for you, adjust tightness of chains. Also, for this pattern, the number of stitches here is not as significant as the size. If 48 stitches is too large (over 9 inches) or too tight, start over and adjust the number of stitches accordingly. It is perfectly fine if you’re off by several stitches since it is really dependent on the individual crocheter.
Note 2: It is recommended to do a few rows and measure the width to ensure the sizing is correct. The goal is rectangles that are right around 9 inches wide and 6 inches tall. However do not stress if it’s slightly smaller, the plastic canvas can be trimmed down.
Make 2 of the same size:
With a tighter ch or a size hook down if have, ch 49.
Row 1: sc in 2nd sp from hook, sc in each sp across, turn (48)
Row 2-37: ch 1, sc in each sp across. Ensure the height is roughly 6 inches. Adjust number of rows as needed if off in terms of sizing.
Row 38: ch 1, sc in each sp across, ch 2, sc in each sp down the side (37 sc), ch 2, sc in each sp across bottom of ch, ch 2, sc in each sp up side (37 sc), ch 2, sl st to first sc. Fasten off and weave in end.
Set one base piece aside (bottom) and continue working with the top piece.
Outline (to help visualize this, look up surface single crochet):
~Fold the piece in half lengthwise, place stitch markers at the edges to mark the middle points on the short sides. Starting on one end, create a slip knot and place sc evenly across the surface, dividing the piece into two
along the middle. It should be roughly the same number of stitches as the width of the rectangle (~50 with extra stitches from round 38).
~Divide the long side into three sections (~3 inches each) and mark the edges for both shorter dividers. Surface single crochet from one end to the other twice. There should be the same number of stitches on either side of the middle lengthwise divider.
Sections (see image to understand direction of crocheting)
For each section (1-3 red paths in image), sl st into first sp at edge, ch 1 and sc in same sp, sc in each sp following path (red arrows for one section). When reach other edge, turn. Ch 1 and sc in each sp back. Repeat until there’s 24 rows (upwards/perpendicular from base). Repeat for all 3 sections (all outline is covered between 3 sections).
Sew Intersection Edges
When all 3 sections are completed, line edges up (where the intersection of the outlines are). With a piece of yarn and a needle, sew the edges together (at the two intersections) and weave in ends. The dividers should be completed!
Tunisian Crochet will give a tight fabric with little give. The regular hook is perfectly sufficient here!
Foundation: With cotton yarn, ch 4-6 (dependent how wide you would like it)
Foundation forward pass: roll chain forward slightly so the back bumps can be seen. Insert hook in 2nd ch back bump, yarn over, and pull through (2 loops on
hook). Repeat for each ch across.
Foundation Return pass: Yarn over, pull through first loop on hook (basically a ch 1, known as return ch), yarn over and pull through two loops on hook, repeat across until there is one stitch left on the hook. This stitch is now the 1st stitch of the next row.
Repeat following until the handle measures 56-58″ long:
Forward pass: Skip first vertical bar, insert hook from right to left (if right handed, it will be left to right if you’re left handed) under the 2nd vertical bar (only one bar on hook when picked up), yarn over and pull up loop, keep loop on hook. Repeat across to last stitch. Work end stitch: insert hook under last bar and the bar that lies directly behind it, yarn over and pull loop.
Return pass: Yarn over, pull through first loop on hook (return ch), yarn over and pull through two loops on hook, repeat across until there is one stitch left on the hook.
Fasten off once length is reached. Sew two ends together without twisting and weave in ends. With stitch markers, mark the join and half way around the loop.
Handles to Base
- With stitch markers along the long sides of the bottom base piece (not the one with the dividers crocheted on it), mark 10-12 stitches in from the corners (2 stitch marker per long edge). This is where one edge of the handle will be attached and this ensures that the handles are placed evenly.
- Without twisting the handles, place the join and halfway points in the middle of the base (lengthwise) with the same side of the handle facing up (wrong side facing up so the right side will be showcase along the sides of the carrier in the last step of the pattern).
- Position the handles so that it lies against the edge stitch markers and use the same stitch markers to secure the position of the handle.
- Ensure the join/halfway points are still in the middle and that the handles look even on either side.
- From one long side edge to the other and using the running stitch, sew the handle onto the base using either the cotton yarn if visible stitches are desired or the same yarn to make the stitches invisible.
Cut plastic canvas into two even pieces that measure roughly 9×6″. They do not need to be exactly the same and can be trimmed down as needed shortly.
Lay the bottom base with handles facing upwards. Place the top base with dividers on top. With stitch markers, attach corners together to keep them lined up.
With the cotton yarn , sl st into the space (in both pieces) immediately after the handle on the side closer to a corner. Both pieces will be crocheted together besides where the handles are.
- ch 1 and sc in same sp. Sc in both pieces to corner, (sc, ch 2, sc) in corner, sc in each sp along short side, (sc, ch 2, sc) in corner, sc to handle edge,
- sc in ONLY top piece sps to other side of handle edge, sc in both pieces sp to next handle edge, sc in ONLY top piece sp to other side of handle edge
- sc in both pieces to corner (sc, ch 2, sc) in corner, sc in each sp along short side, (sc, ch 2, sc) in corner,
- Take plastic canvas and slide between top pieces, ensure it fit inside the edges. If not, trim down edges as needed. With plastic canvas in place, sc to handle edge, sc in ONLY top piece sps to other side of handle edge,
- sc in both pieces sp to next handle edge, sc in ONLY top piece sp to other side of handle edge, sl st to first st. Do not fasten off.
Continuing with the cotton yarn, ch 1 and sc in same sp. sc in each sp around, skipping corner ch-2 sp. sl st to first sc and fasten off. Weave in end.
There are two options with the sides here: per side or continuously. Continuous with the Bloom yarn features thin stripes and does NOT showcase the floral. In addition, the corners are curved. Per side is crocheting each side surface separately then connecting the edges with a seam. This does feature the yarn floral pattern in thicker stripes and the corners are sharper with the seams.
Continuous Side Option
With the bloom yarn, sl st into any sp along the edge.
Rounds 1-25: ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each sp around, sl st to first sc. If you have more yarn, more rounds with Bloom can be completed until you run out of yarn. If you want stitching to be visible with handles, set enough yarn aside for that.
Fasten off Bloom and weave in ends.
Optional edging: With cotton yarn, sl st into any sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each sp around. Repeat for 1-2 more rounds. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Per Side Option
Find corners and mark with stitch markers. Adjust stitch markers so that these stitches are even on the opposite sides (number of long side stitches should be the same, short sides should be the same). The stitch markers should be between spaces.
For each side:
Row 1: Sl st in sp to one side of the stitch marker, ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each sp across side to next stitch marker. Turn
Row 2-25: ch 1, sc in each sp across, turn.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
After all sides are completed and for each corner edges:
With the cotton yarn, sl st into lined up row sp at bottom, ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each lined up row sp to the top. Fasten off.
Optional edging: Same as Continuous side option optional edging. Add ch 1 for corners if desired.
Finishing whole pattern:
Line up handles along side straight up from base and sew onto side with running stitch using either yarn. Line dividers edges straight up from the base and sew into side with Bloom yarn and the whip stitch. Weave in all ends and ENJOY!
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