One Handle Floral Wrist Bag with Hard Bottom
June 2020 QuickProjects
This project utilizes mainly single crochet and the single
handle construction is what makes it a fun bag along with the floral pattern! A hard bottom also makes the bag more functional and doesn’t allow the shape to collapse as much. The height is determined by the maker since it can be anywhere from 6 inches tall to roughly 12 inches tall. The strap/handle is made last based on the height of the bag. This bag can be used for your smaller craft projects or an outing! Join the Facebook group or email for images of project and/or help!
One Handle Floral Wrist Bag with Hard Bottom Pattern
Supplies: One skein of Premier Bloom and one skein of Premier Home Cotton Small, Size F hook, 2 pieces of 9×6″ plastic canvas, needle, stitch markers
Gauge: 13 rows of 11 sc = 2 in x 2 in
Dimensions: Base is about 9 x 6, height is determined by maker
Base Pieces Notes: tight chain helps avoid twisting BUT if this is not the case for you, adjust tightness of chains. Also, for this pattern, the number of stitches here is not as significant as the size. If 48 stitches are too large (over 9 inches) or too tight, start over and adjust the number of stitches accordingly. It is perfectly fine if you’re off by several stitches since it is really dependent on the individual crocheter.
Note: It is recommended to do a few rows and measure the width to ensure the sizing is correct. The goal is rectangles that are right around 9 inches wide and 6 inches tall. However do not stress if it’s slightly smaller, the plastic canvas can be trimmed down.
Make 2 of the same size:
With a tighter ch or a size hook down if have, ch 49.
Row 1: sc in 2nd sp from hook, sc in each sp across, turn (48)
Row 2-37: ch 1, sc in each sp across. Ensure the height is roughly 6 inches. Adjust number of rows as needed if off in terms of sizing.
Row 38: ch 1, sc in each sp across, ch 2, sc in each sp down the side (37 sc), ch 2, sc in each sp across bottom of ch, ch 2, sc in each sp up side (37 sc), ch 2, sl st to first sc. Fasten off and weave in end.
Finishing base (after both pieces are made)
Lay the bottom base and place the top base on top. With stitch markers, attach corners together to keep them lined up.
With the cotton yarn, sl st into the space (in both pieces) immediately after a corner. Both pieces will be crocheted together- sp here means both of the lined up sp (one on each base piece).
Finishing Base continued
- Ch 1 and sc in same sp , sc in each sp and (sc, ch 2, sc) in each corner around three sides.
- Before proceeding with last side, cut plastic canvas down to two 9×6″ pieces.
- Take plastic canvas pieces and slide between base pieces, ensure it fit inside the edges. If not, trim down edges as needed.
- With plastic canvas in place, sc in each sp across to last corner, (sc, ch 2, sc) in corner, sl st to first sc.
Round 2: Continuing with the cotton yarn, ch 1 and sc in same sp. sc in each sp around, skipping corner ch-2 sp. sl st to first sc. Fasten off and weave in ends.
There are two options with the sides here: per side or continuously. Continuous with the Bloom yarn features thin stripes and does NOT showcase the floral. In addition, the corners are curved. Per side is crocheting each side surface separately then connecting the edges with a seam. This does feature the yarn floral pattern in thicker stripes and the corners are sharper with the seams.
Height is also determined by the maker. There should be enough yarn for around 80 rounds total of Bloom. Continue until the desired height of the bag is reached.
Continuous Side Option
With the bloom yarn, sl st into any sp along the edge.
Rounds 1-50 (to 80): ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each sp around, sl st to first sc. If you have more yarn, more rounds with Bloom can be completed until you run out of yarn. If you want stitching to be visible with handles, set enough yarn aside for that. After the last round- Fasten off Bloom and weave in ends.
Per Side Option
Find corners and mark with stitch markers. Adjust stitch markers so that these stitches are even on the opposite sides (number of long side stitches should be the same, short sides should be the same). The stitch markers should be between spaces.
For each side, crochet the same number of rows:
Row 1: Sl st in sp to one side of the stitch marker, ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each sp across side to next stitch marker. Turn
Row 2-50 (to 80): ch 1, sc in each sp across, turn. After the last row- Fasten off and weave in ends.
Per Side Option continued:
After all sides are completed and for each corner edges:
With the cotton yarn, sl st into lined up row sp at bottom, ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each lined up row sp to the top. Fasten off.
Optional edging for both sides option:
With cotton yarn, sl st into any sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each sp around. Repeat for 1-2 more rounds. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Tunisian Crochet will give a tight fabric with little give. The regular hook is perfectly sufficient here!
Foundation: With cotton yarn, ch 7-11 (dependent how wide you would like it)
Foundation forward pass: roll chain forward slightly so the back bumps can be seen. Insert hook in 2nd ch back bump, yarn over, and pull through (2 loops on hook). Repeat for each ch across.
Foundation Return pass: Yarn over, pull through the first loop on hook (basically a ch 1, known as return ch), yarn over and pull through two loops on hook, repeat across until there is one stitch left on the hook.
Repeat the following until the handle measures the height of your sides and across the base from center of your long sides of base:
Forward pass: Skip first vertical bar, insert hook from right to left (if right handed, it will be left to right if you’re left handed) under the 2nd vertical bar (only one bar on hook when picked up), yarn over and pull up loop, keep loop on hook. Repeat across to the last stitch. Work end stitch: insert hook under last bar and the bar that lies directly behind it, yarn over and pull loop.
Return pass: Same as foundation return pass.
Handle Buckle and Loop
When strap length is reached (do not fasten off), the ends should lie flush with the edges on either side of the bag at the center of the long edges (it should lie against the bag from edge, to base, across base, and back to edge on other side of bag).
Finish strap edge: continuing with strap- ch 1, sc in each sp across.
Create buckle gap: ch same number of beg stitches plus 2. sl st to the opposite end of where ch started to create a gap between edge of strap and chain. turn.
Create buckle: Ch 2, hdc in gap (around ch) for two times the number of ch from previous step (for example: if used 8 chains to create gap, complete 16 hdc in gap). ch 2 , sl to to edge sp. Fasten off and weave in end.
Handle Buckle and Loop continued:
Handle Loop: On the other side of the strap (where strap was worked up from), sl st into first sp on one side of strap (similar to front loop or back loop only. ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each sp across.
Row 2: ch 1, sc2tog over next 2 sp, sc in each sp to last 2 sp, sc2tog over last 2 sp.
Row 3: ch 1, sc in each sp across.
Repeat row 3 until the length of loop is reached- long enough to allow your hand to pass through to rest on your wrist plus a little more. It also can be longer if desired!
Last row: ch 1, 2 sc in first sp, 1 sc in each sp to last sp, 2 sc in last sp. Fasten off with a long tail. Sew the last row opposite loops of the starting point securely. Weave in ends. Loop should be able to pass through the buckle easily.
To finish: Find the center of the long sides and use stitch markers to attach the edge of the strap to the edge of the sides (buckle and loop should be above sides) on either side of the bag. Using either yarn, sew strap into bag sides and, if not too difficult, across base with a running stitch. Remove stitch markers and weave in ends. Lastly, if desired, a small hook and loop (or variation) can be added to pull short sides together inside the bag edges to create a folded look.
This is a paid pattern originally designed for a Yarn Bits Shop subscription box.
You have permission to sell any item made from this pattern. However, you are not allowed to resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern or downloads in any printed or digital form (in full), or to claim the pattern as your own original design. If you want to sell or share a picture of your work from this pattern, please clearly credit the design to me: Lauren Samar of Yarn Bits Shop (with link to the website when applicable).
Occasionally a mistake or typo falls through, please report them via email (email@example.com) and the pattern will be updated accordingly.