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QP January 2021 Ribbon XL Heart Pillow or Wall Hanging

Ribbon XL Heart Pillow or Wall Hanging

January 2021 QuickProjects

Designed by Lauren Samar for Yarn Bits Shop

Feel free to email for pattern help or questions: help@yarnbitsshop.com

Ribbon XL Heart Pillow or Wall Hanging

With Valentine’s Day approaching, a heart shaped project seemed appropriate! There are two heart project options- a pillow for your loveseat or a wall hanging for a wall, door, or window. There’s some notes for each project with ideas for usage and, to be honest, either option isn’t being put away in my house because it’s so cute! Alternatively, if a heart project isn’t your thing, there’s a few ideas for the yarn along with a past QuickProjects pattern that the yarn would work well with in the last section. Speaking of the yarn, it is a Hoooked Yarn, one of my favorite brands, called RibbonXL and it is made out of recycled cotton. It’s very soft and very fun to work with. Happy Crocheting! ~Lauren  

In this box, there is: 

  • One skein of Hoooked Yarns RibbonXL- $10
  • 9mm Crochet Hook – $4
  • Collectible and exclusively designed for QuickProjects Boxes monthly sticker- $4
  • Exclusive Pattern and Support- $10

 

Included in your subscription:

  • VIP membership- $15/month
  • Monthly Masterclass- $50-100/month
  • Exclusive Facebook Group- $150+/month (but connections are priceless!)
  • Yarn Bits Shop Hub access 

 

Yarn Tips

This yarn is different than most yarns and to make the experience easier and enjoyable, a couple things should be noted. This yarn is a FLAT tubed yarn and WILL twist when pulling out from center or from outside of the skein. The best thing you can do is to untwist the yarn frequently so that the look of the yarn when crocheted features the “flatness” or width of the yarn. 

  1. Pull out a length of yarn. 
  2. From the yarn end closest to the skein, push the twists towards your project. 
  3. When you have a lot of twists or you can’t push the twists any further easily, place a stitch marker or just leave your hook in the loop and let your project hang. It will slowly untwist with the weight. You can speed it up by spinning the project in the correct direction. 

 

You will need to do this throughout the entire project but it’s worth it!

Ribbon XL Heart Pillow

Skill Level: Beginners

Hook: 9mm (Letter numbers vary between brands here- it’s USUALLY Size M)

Gauge: 4 dc x 3 rows = ~2×2 inches

Dimensions: 11.5 inches from bottom tip to top of one curve

Ch 3. 

Row 1

  • 3 dc in 3rd ch from hook
  • turn 

Stitches count: 3 dc

Row 2

  • ch 2
  • 2 dc in first sp
  • dc in next
  • 2 dc in last sp
  • turn 

Stitches count: 5 dc

Row 3

  • ch 2
  • 2 dc in first sp
  • dc in each sp to last sp
  • 2 dc in last sp
  • turn 

Stitches count: 7 dc

 

Rows 4-8: Repeat row 3, each row stitches count increases by 2. Row 8 stitch count should be 17 dc.

 

Row 9

  • ch 2
  • dc in each sp across
  • turn 

Stitches count: 17 dc

 

Row 10: Repeat Row 3

Stitches count: 19 dc

 

Row 11

  • ch 1
  • sc in first sp, hdc in next, dc in next 
  • 2 tr in each of next 2 sp
  • 2 dc in next, dc in next, hdc in next, sc in next
  • Skip next sp (center st)
  • sc in next, hdc in next, dc in next, 2 dc in next
  • 2 tr in each of next 2 sp
  • dc in next, hdc in next, sc in last sp
  • turn 

Stitches count: 24 total stitches with tr stitches creating the initial curves 

 

Row 12

  • ch 1
  • sc in first sp, hdc in next
  • 2 dc in each of next 2 sp
  • 2 tr in each of next 2 sp
  • dc in next 2 sp, hdc in next 2 sp, sc in next
  • Skip 2 sp (center)
  • sc in next sp, hdc in next 2 sp, dc in next 2 sp
  • 2 tr in each of next 2 sp
  • 2 dc in each of next 2 sp
  • hdc in next, sc in last sp
  • turn 

Stitches count: 30 total stitches

 

Row 13

  • ch 1
  • sc in first sp, sc in next, hdc in next 2 sp
  • 2 dc in next sp, dc in next, 2 dc in each of next 2 sp, dc in next 2 sp
  • hdc in next 2 sp, sc in next
  • Skip 2 sp (center)
  • sc in next sp, hdc in next 2 sp
  • dc in next 2 sp, 2 dc in each of next 2 sp, dc in next, 2 dc in next sp
  • hdc in next 2 sp, sc in next, sc in last sp
  • turn 

Stitches count: 32 total stitches

 

Fasten off and make another heart. 

 

After both hearts are completed, weave in ends. Lay them against each other and use the remaining yarn (or a different yarn if contrast is desired!) and sew around the edges with a whip stitch, leaving a gap towards the end (just large enough to use to stuff the pillow. Stuff with desired choice of filling- polyfill, fabric scraps, etc. and finish sewing the edge. Fasten off and weave in ends. 

 

Put on a loveseat, couch, or bed for decoration! This also could be hung up from a ceiling or doorknob. 

 

An alternative idea is instead of sewing the two pieces together, the two smaller hearts can be used on a table as a table-runner like decoration/centerpiece or even a hot pot mat. 

Ribbon XL Heart Wall Hanging

Skill Level: Beginners

Hook: 9mm (Letter numbers vary between brands here- it’s USUALLY Size M)

Gauge: 4 dc x 3 rows = ~2×2 inches

Dimensions: 21 inches from bottom tip to top of one curve

Ch 3. 

Row 1

  • 3 dc in 3rd ch from hook
  • turn 

Stitches count: 3 dc

 

Row 2

  • ch 2
  • 2 dc in first sp
  • dc in next
  • 2 dc in last sp
  • turn 

Stitches count: 5 dc

Row 3

  • ch 2
  • 2 dc in first sp
  • dc in each sp to last sp
  • 2 dc in last sp
  • turn 

Stitches count: 7 dc

 

Rows 4-18: Repeat row 3, each row stitches count increases by 2. Row 8 stitch count should be 37 dc.

 

Row 19

  • ch 2
  • dc in each sp across
  • turn 

Stitches count: 17 dc

 

Row 20

  • ch 1
  • sc in first sp, hdc in next 2 sp, dc in next 2 sp
  • 2 dc in next sp, tr in next, 2 tr in next, tr in next 2 sp
  • 2 dc in next, dc in next 2 sp, hdc in next 2 sp, sc in next 2
  • sl st in next 3 sp (center)
  • sc in next 2, hdc in next 2 sp, dc in next 2 sp, 2 dc in next
  • tr in next 2 sp, 2 tr in next, tr in next, 2 dc in next sp
  • dc in next 2 sp, hdc in next 2 sp, sc in last sp
  • turn 

Stitches count: 40 total stitches, not counting sl sts at center

 

Row 21

  • ch 1
  • sc in first sp, hdc in next 2 sp, 2 dc in next, dc in next 2 sp
  • tr in next, 2 tr in next, tr in next, 2 tr in next, tr in next 2 sp
  • dc in next 4 sp, hdc in next 2 sp, sc in next 3 sp
  • Skip next sp (center st)
  • sc in next 3 sp, hdc in next 2 sp, dc in next 4 sp
  • tr in next 2 sp, 2 tr in next, tr in next, 2 tr in next, tr in next
  • dc in next 2 sp, 2 dc in next, hdc in next 2 sp, sc in last sp
  • turn 

Stitches count: 48 total stitches

 

Row 22

  • ch 1
  • sc in first sp, hdc in next 2 sp
  • dc in next 2 sp, 2 dc in next sp, dc in next 2 sp
  • tr in next, 2 tr in next, tr in next, 2 tr in next sp, tr in next 2 sp
  • dc in next 4 sp, hdc in next 3 sp, sc in next 2 sp 
  • Skip next 2 sp (center sts)
  • sc in next 2 sp, hdc in next 3 sp, dc in next 4 sp
  • tr in next 2 sp, 2 tr in next sp,  tr in next, 2 tr in next, tr in next 
  • dc in next 2 sp, 2 dc in next sp, dc in next 2 sp
  • hdc in next 2 sp, sc in last sp
  • turn 

Stitches count: 52 total stitches



Row 23

  • ch 1
  • sc in first sp, sc in next,  hdc in next 3 sp
  • dc in next 3 sp, 2 dc in next sp
  • tr in next, 2 tr in next, tr in next 2 sp, 2 tr in each of next 2 sp
  • 2 dc in next sp, dc in next 3 sp, 2 dc in next sp, dc in next, 
  • hdc in next 3 sp, sc in next sp 
  • Skip next 2 sp (center sts)
  • sc in next sp, hdc in next 3 sp 
  • dc in next, 2 dc in next sp, dc in next 3 sp, 2 dc in next sp
  • 2 tr in each of next 2 sp, tr in next 2 sp, 2 tr in next sp, tr in next
  • 2 dc in next sp, dc in next 3 sp
  • hdc in next 3 sp, sc in last 2 sps
  • turn 

Stitches count: 62 total stitches

 

Fasten off and weave in ends. 

 

To hang- use extra yarn and select one or two hanging points on the piece as desired. Hang on the wall, door, in your closet, on your window. You can even put it on a table as a centerpiece! If more functional purpose is desired, it would be an useful earring hanger. 

 

Other ideas: add tassels or pom-poms on edges/at point or use a different colored yarn to run a whip stitch around the edge to give it an accent. 

Alternative Ideas

This yarn is very sturdy and would be ideal for things like coasters, hot pot mats, a plant pot mat, or baskets. This amount of yarn has NOT been tested with other patterns but feel free to email us for more pattern ideas. Take a look at this basket pattern (can also be a hanging basket) from April 2020 QuickProjects Box.

Pattern Declaimer

This is a paid pattern originally designed for a Yarn Bits Shop subscription box. 

You have permission to sell any item made from this pattern. However, you are not allowed to resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern or downloads in any printed or digital form (in full), or to claim the pattern as your own original design. If you want to sell or share a picture of your work from this pattern, please clearly credit the design to me: Lauren Samar of Yarn Bits Shop (with link to the website when applicable). 

Occasionally a mistake or typo falls through, please report them via email (help@yarnbitsshop.com) and the pattern will be updated accordingly.

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QP February 2021 Dual Colored Braided Cowl

Dual Colored Braided Cowl

February 2021 QuickProjects

Designed by Lauren Samar for Yarn Bits Shop

Feel free to email for pattern help or questions: help@yarnbitsshop.com

The braided technique featured in this pattern LOOKS more complicated than it actually is. This technique can be worked for many patterns in one or many colors to create texture and lots of fun color combinations. In this pattern, it is two colors to emphasize the braid color changing. The overall pattern is straightforward and it is basically working stripes with loops added in the last row of that color section. Then the loops are “braided” together prior to the second last row. If a cowl (which is perfect for spring and could also be worn slightly pulled over the shoulders!) is not desired, a pillow cover is a great alternative option. Happy Crocheting! ~Lauren  

In this box, there is: 

  • Two skeins of Universal Yarns Uptown DK in two colors- $14
  • Size H Crochet Hook OR Handmade By Lauren Stitch Markers – $4
    • Quick Note– Make sure you’re getting emails from us! We send out a color survey most months and will be offering an option between hooks or a different extra if a hook is not needed. 
  • Sweeter Card- $9
  • Collectible and exclusively designed for QuickProjects Boxes monthly sticker- $4
  • Exclusive Pattern and Support- $10

 

Included in your subscription:

  • VIP membership- $15/month
  • Monthly Masterclass- $50-100/month
  • Exclusive Facebook Group- $150+/month (but connections are priceless!)
  • Yarn Bits Shop Hub access 

Dual Colored Braided Cowl

Skill Level: Easy

Hook: Size H or 5mm

Gauge: 8 st x 6 rows of pattern = ~2.5×1.5 inches

Dimensions: 160 ch for starting ch = ~50 inches around and ~8.5 inches wide



Pattern Notes

  • The pattern is worked in round BUT does turn in directions to keep the seam straight and makes it a little easier to line the loops up. 
  • The starting chain is 160 but any multiple of 4 can be used to adjust sizing as desired. If you want to make the cowl longer around, add more chains and this will make it thinner. If you would like the cowl shorter around (not fit over shoulders at all), reduce the number of chains and it’ll make it thicker. 
  • You will not do anything with the loops in terms of braiding it until the end (it will unravel). Keep an eye on alignment of the loops- ensure that the new loops are lined up with the previous loops every time you’re starting the loop row. 
  • There is a 2-row start, then rows 3-5 are repeated until one color runs out of yarn, then the other color is used for the ending rows- which includes brading the loops and fastening the top of the braid to the fabric so it doesn’t unravel. 

With color A– Ch 160. Without any twists in your chain, sl st to the first chain to create a loop. 

 

Set-Up Rows

Round 1

  • ch 1, sc same sp, sc in each sp around
  • sl st to first sc, 
  • turn 

Stitches count: 160 sc

 

Round 2 (Loop Round)

  • ch 1, sc in same sp
  • sc in next sp
  • *ch 10, sc in next sp (loop made), sc in next 3 sp
  • Repeat from * around (loops made between sets of 4 sc)
  • sl st to first sc, turn 

Stitches count: 160 sc and 40 loops 

 

Body

Round 3

  • sl st color B, ch 2
  • hdc same sp, hdc in each sp around (you will be skipping over loops basically)
  • sl st to first hdc, 
  • turn 

Stitches count: 160 hdc

 

Round 4:

  • ch 2, hdc same sp, hdc in each sp around
  • sl st to first hdc, 
  • turn 

Stitches count: 160 hdc

 

Round 5: Repeat Round 2 (Loop Round), ensuring that the sp that the loop “goes over” or “splits” is aligned with the previous loop row. 

 

Working until most of the yarn is used up- Repeat rounds 3-5, alternating colors with each set of 3 rows. The loop round is the last row of the color section and the following row is the opposite color. With the starting ch of 160 defined for the pattern- there should be 11 loop rounds completed. But if the starting chain was adjusted, there may be more or less loop rounds. 

 

Ending Rounds

Repeat rounds 3-4. Depending on the direction of the work after round 4 of the ending rounds, you may not want to turn. Ensure that the loop side is FACING YOU prior to starting the following round. If you need to skip the turn to ensure this, that is fine. 

 

Fastening Braids Row Set-Up/Tips:

Ensure all the loops are on ONE SIDE of the fabric. 

 

To braid- you can do one or a few columns at a time but don’t do all columns prior to starting the fastening round:

  • Working one “column” from bottom to top, start at the bottom loop
  • Pick up bottom loop, twist it so it is flipped over (this closes the “gap”), pick up and pull the loop above it through the hole of bottom loop
  • Pick up 2nd to bottom loop, twist it, pull the next loop above it through
  • Repeat all the way to top of “column”

Fastening Braids Round (2nd last round):

  • ch 1, sc in same sp, 
  • sc to space prior to loop alignment (should only be 1 more sc)
  • *Braid column of loop
  • Twist last loop the same way as all loops have been twisted in column
  • sl st into loop- this fastens the top of the loop to the row, 
  • sc in next 4 sp, 
  • Repeat from * around, braiding and fastening each column of loops to row
  • sl st to beg sc

Stitches count: 160 sc with loops fastened between every 4 sp.

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Last Round:

  • ch 1, sc in same sp, 
  • sc in each sp around, 
  • sl st to beg sc, fasten off and weave in all ends. 

Stitches count: 160 sc

Alternative Ideas

A pillow case can be made by following the same pattern with some adjustments. It can still be worked in a shorter round (maybe roughly 80 chs for starting ch to make a 12×12 pillow covering both sides) and the top/bottom can be sewed together after crocheting size desired and being stuffed. 

The pattern can also be adjusted so it is not working in rounds if desired. Start with a multiple of 4 chs and have loops start after 2 sp in on either side. Follow the pattern without working in rounds- each row would skip the “sl st to beg st”. 

Pattern Declaimer

This is a paid pattern originally designed for a Yarn Bits Shop subscription box. 

You have permission to sell any item made from this pattern. However, you are not allowed to resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern or downloads in any printed or digital form (in full), or to claim the pattern as your own original design. If you want to sell or share a picture of your work from this pattern, please clearly credit the design to me: Lauren Samar of Yarn Bits Shop (with link to the website when applicable). 

Occasionally a mistake or typo falls through, please report them via email (help@yarnbitsshop.com) and the pattern will be updated accordingly.

Posted on

QP December 2020 – Bidirectional Ombre Hat

Bidirectional Ombre Hat

December 2020 QuickProjects

Designed by Lauren Samar for Yarn Bits Shop

Feel free to email for pattern help or questions: help@yarnbitsshop.com

A hat pattern has never been featured in one of our crocheting boxes before and that needed to be addressed! This pattern is made up of two main parts- the band and the body. The band is doubled up yarn to have extra warmth around your ears and the body features a stitch called linked half double crochet. It’s a modification to the standard half double crochet stitch to create a tighter fabric. After the body is completed, the hat top is bundled together to close it and accessories can be added if desired. Have fun making this cozy hat with a really fun yarn!

Bidirectional Ombre Hat Pattern

Skill Level: Beginners

Hook: Size I

Gauge: see each section 

Band

Gauge: 10 stitches x 8 rows = ~2.5 x 2 inches (not stretched)

Take BOTH ends of the yarn (outside and center) and work with them together for the band. The band is worked with double yarn but the body is not. 

Ch 11. If a wider band is desired, add more chains! 

Row 1

  • sc in 2nd ch from hook
  • sc in each ch across
  • turn 

Stitches count: 10 sc

Row 2

  • working in back loop only, ch 1
  • sc in each sp (back loop only) across
  • turn 

Stitches count: 10 sc in back loop only

Repeat Row 2 until length is circumference desired, ensuring an EVEN number of rows have been completed. When determining circumference, the band should stretch (comfortably) due to the ribbing. Here are some general guidelines:

  • Teen/Small Adult: 21-22”
  • Medium Adult: 22-23.5”
  • Large Adult: 23.5-25”

For best results with fit, measure the head circumference where the person would wear the hat and use that measurement to determine the length of the band. 

Finishing Band

Fold band (no twists) so the both ends are lined up. You’re going to work the corresponding spaces from both ends together so ensure that your latest row is to the front of you already turned in the direction that you’re going to work. 

Ch 1, sl st the next front/back spaces together across to the other end, fasten off. 

Special Stitches Directions

Linked Half Double Crochet (linked hdc)

  • Insert hook into second bar on side of hdc just completed, yo and pull through sp (2 loops on hook)
    • This replaces the yo completed in a normal hdc
  • Insert hook into next sp, yo and pull through sp (3 loops on hook)
  • yo and draw through all 3 loops on hook

Beginning Linked Half Double Crochet (beg linked hdc)

  • This is only used for the first hdc of the row. 
  • Insert hook into second chain of beg chain, yo and pull through sp (2 loops on hook)
  • Insert hook into next sp, yo and pull through sp (3 loops on hook)
  • yo and draw through all 3 loops on hook

Body

Gauge: 8 stitches x 6 rows = ~2 x 2 inches 

The stitch used is called the linked half double crochet, it’s a modification of the standard half double crochet stitch that creates tight fabrics as well as an unique look. The work is not turned at all, it is worked consistently in rounds until the height desired is reached. 

The first round is the set-up round for the rest of the body, transitioning the band into the body. 

Also- the body only uses a single strand, not doubled up like the band. 

Round 1

  • Sl st into any sp (row of the band) the edge of the band
  • ch 1, sc in same sp
  • 1 sc in each row around to beg (easier way to see think about this is 2 sc between each peak of the ribs of the bands)
  • sl st to first sc

Stitches count: Even number of sc but doesn’t really matter for the pattern- count if you’re concerned about dropping stitches, etc.. This stitches count is what every round should be going forward

Round 2

  • ch 3, 
  • beg linked hdc, 
  • linked hdc in each sp around to beg, 
  • sl st to top of first hdc

Stitches count: same as previous round. 

Repeat round 2 until hat reaches the total height needed to cover the head, approximately 8-10 inches from bottom of band. If desired, you can keep making it longer to make it more slouchy. Here are some general guidelines:

  • Teen/Small Adult: 8-8.5”
  • Medium Adult: 8.5-9”
  • Large Adult: 9-9.5”

Fasten off with a long tail. 

Finishing 

To finish the hat, the top needs to be closed securely and any desired accessories added. 

To close the top, use the long tail and weave in/out around the edge of the hat. Pull the end of the tail tight and that should pull together the edges to the center. Weave the ends around the center in several directions and fasten securely. 

Weave in all ends. 

If desired, a flower, circular, or similar accessory (many options available dependent on what you actually want!) may be added to the hat on the edge between the band and body. Alternatively, a pompom can be made and added to the top of the hat. 

Pattern Declaimer

This is a paid pattern originally designed for a Yarn Bits Shop subscription box. 

You have permission to sell any item made from this pattern. However, you are not allowed to resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern or downloads in any printed or digital form (in full), or to claim the pattern as your own original design. If you want to sell or share a picture of your work from this pattern, please clearly credit the design to me: Lauren Samar of Yarn Bits Shop (with link to the website when applicable). 

Occasionally a mistake or typo falls through, please report them via email (help@yarnbitsshop.com) and the pattern will be updated accordingly.

Posted on

QP Crocodile Stitch Pillow Cover

Crocodile Stitch Pillow Cover

March 2020 QuickProjects

Designed by Lauren Samar for Yarn Bits Shop

Feel free to email for pattern help or questions: help@yarnbitsshop.com

The Mandala yarn took the yarn world by surprise and became very popular quickly. Tweed Stripes is one of the latest variation and it is appealing to the eye as well as really fun to use. The look is created by two strands of different Mandala yarns twisted together and between multiple skeins, the color changes are not exactly the same. With this yarn, the crocodile stitch is a great way to feature the pretty color changes and create a throw pillow that adds a pop of color wherever it’s placed without being overwhelming. This stitch also can be used to create different fun projects with the 3D scales!

Crocodile Stitch Pillow Cover Pattern

Supplies: 1 skein of Lion Brand Mandala Tweed Stripes, complementary yarn of choice (amount as needed dependent on size of pillow) OR fabric for back of cover (see sizing notes and finishing notes), size G Hook, yarn needle,

Skill:  Intermediate

Gauge:  14 ch to start by first 5 rows of pattern = 3×3 inches

Dimensions: See sizing notes

Sizing Notes

With only one skein (Note: to be fully transparent- box subscribers only got one skein due to weight of yarn and shipping costs) of Mandala Tweed Stripes and working with the crocodile stitch (which eats up a lot of yarn), the sizing of the pillow is important to decide before proceeding. Find the pillow you want to cover and go from there.

With the gauge given and using the Curved Crocodile Stitch (which is two less DC stitches per scale compared to the Flat Crocodile Stitch), one skein with a little leftovers yeilds one side of a cover measuring at 14 by 14 inches (56 chains when starting). With the Flat Crocodile Stitch, one skein yeilds  one side measuring 12 by 12 inches (50 chains when starting).

If the pillow is rectangular, use square inches to determine if there is enough yarn. For example, if the pillow size is 12 by 16″ that is 192 square inches. The 14 by 14″ example from above is 196 square inches so there should be enough yarn using the Curved Crocodile Stitch for 12 by 16″ rectangular pillow.

Crocodile Stitch Overview:

This stitch is worked in two parts. The first part is a set-up row of 2-dc clusters and the second part is crocheting down one post and up the other post of every other 2-dc clusters, creating a “scale”. Skipping every other cluster is what creates the tension between scales and allows them to lay flat. After the foundation rows, the pattern is repeated over 2 rows containing 4 parts to create the scales offsets (points between the row below’s scales). The cover is turned side to side as working down then up the posts.

Special Stitches:

2-DC Cluster: 2 dc in same sp {Note: cluster in this patter refers to this stitch}

Curved Crocodile Stitch: Working over two dc stitches next to each other, (4 dc then 1 tr down first post (first dc of cluster)), ch 1, (1 tr then 4 dc up next post (second dc of cluster))

Flat Crocodile Stitch: Working over two dc stitches next to each other, (5 dc then 1 tr down first post (first dc of cluster)), ch 1, (1 tr then 5 dc up next post (second dc of cluster))

Rows Pattern:

Cluster Row: starting in sp between posts of previous row clusters, ch 3, dc in same sp, *ch 2, 2 dc in sp between posts in next cluster**, repeat from * to ** across to end. {Note: when working skipped clusters from previous scale row, feel free to pick up the “corner” between the scales in the new cluster row to secure the corners. However, this is NOT necessary.}

Edge Scales Row: sl st around outermost post, ch 3, {3 dc (or 4 dc for flat crocodile stitch) and 1 tr around post- working downwards towards top of previous row, ch 1, 1 tr then 4 dc (or 5 for flat crocodile stitch) around second post of cluster- working upwards towards top of current row} , *sk next dc cluster, crocodile stitch around next cluster**, repeat from * to ** across to second last cluster, sk second last cluster, {4 dc (or 5 for flat crocodile stitch) then 1 tr down first post, ch 1, 1 tr then 3 dc (or 4 for flat crocodile stitch) up next post, ch 3 and sl st around top of post}

Inside Edge Scales Row: sk first dc cluster, *crocodile stitch around next cluster, sk next dc cluster**, repeat from * to ** across to second last cluster, crocodile stitch around cluster, sl st to center of last cluster

To start:

Ch multiple of 6 + 2. {56 ch for a 14″ long side, 50 ch for a 12″ long side)

Foundation:

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each sp across, turn. [multiple of 6 + 1 sc]

Row 2: ch 3, dc in same sp, *sk 2 sp, 2 dc in same sp, ch 2**, repeat from * to ** to last sp, 2 dc in last sp, turn. [odd number of 2-dc sets]

Pattern:

Row 2, part 2: work Edge Scales Row

Row 3, part 1: work Cluster Row

Row 3, part 2: work Inside Edge Scales Row

Row 4, part 1: work Cluster Row

Row 4, part 2: work Edge Scales Row

Repeat rows 3-4 until desired height is achieved (ending on either Scales row).

Finishing row: ch 1, *sc in sp between posts of cluster, 2 sc in ch 2 sp between clusters**, repeat from * to **, sc in between posts of last cluster. [Same number of sc as row 1] {Note: This row is to help crochet or sew edges together more easily}

Finishing Pillow Cover

Dependent on size of the cover, one skein most likely will cover only one side of the pillow. From here you have a few options to finish:

If Crocodile Stitch in same color is desired on the other side, obtain another skein of the same yarn and create another cover of the same size.  Email Happy Hook if you want to inquire about buying more of the yarn through us.

If solid crochet backing is desired on the other side, use yarn of choice and crochet a cover of the same size. sc or hdc stitches are recommanded to create a tighter fabric for the backing.

If fabric is available and desired (and know how to sew fabric by hand nicely), cut a cover of slightly larger than front cover.

Once both sides are finished, crochet or sew edges together working along the outer post of the clusters on the sides. (instead of the scales edges). If crocheting edges are desired, it is recommended to crochet the top and bottom edges together and sew the side edges due to the edge scales. Stuff pillow insert in before sewing 4th edge. 

Pattern Declaimer

This is a paid pattern originally designed for a Yarn Bits Shop subscription box. 

You have permission to sell any item made from this pattern. However, you are not allowed to resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern or downloads in any printed or digital form (in full), or to claim the pattern as your own original design. If you want to sell or share a picture of your work from this pattern, please clearly credit the design to me: Lauren Samar of Yarn Bits Shop (with link to the website when applicable). 

Occasionally a mistake or typo falls through, please report them via email (help@yarnbitsshop.com) and the pattern will be updated accordingly.

Posted on

QP August 2020 – Overlay Crochet Coasters or Potholder

Overlay Crochet Coasters or Potholder

August 2020 QuickProjects

Easy-Intermediate

Intermediate

Advanced

Designed by Lauren Samar for Yarn Bits Shop

Feel free to email for pattern help or questions: help@yarnbitsshop.com

Overlay crocheting is a technique of creating a fabric of single crochet stitches in the back loop only and working 

additional stitches over the fabric in the front loop of below rows to create different designs. This is a really fun way to create more three dimensional designs of all kinds. There are THREE patterns provided in this booklet- the easiest features columns only. The intermediate features diamonds and the advanced features a flower design. All three circle designs end up at the same size and stitches count in the circumference. This allows for the square to be the same (and hence making potholders easier too!). While there are three patterns, every design you make can be completely different due to the color choices!

Overlay Crochet Coasters or Potholder Pattern

Supplies: One skein of Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton (This is the “Core Color”), one pack of Lion Brand cotton BonBon, size G crochet hook, darning needle for invisible joins and weaving in ends.

Skill: Level noted with each pattern

Gauge: Does not matter here.

Dimensions:  5 by 5 squares; potholders are 2 squares by 2 squares plus border

READ THIS BEFORE STARTING

Overlay Crochet Notes 

~ All stitches are worked in the BACK LOOP ONLY unless noted otherwise. 

~ Every round is worked with the same side facing you.

~ Every round is closed with the invisible join- which means the color is fastened off on the last stitch and is NOT slip stitched to the first stitch. See stitch guide for steps of invisible join.

Special Stitches Guide

The following stitches are used in the patterns:

Invisible Join: After making the last stitch of round, cut yarn (leaving a 4 inch or so tail) and pull through top of last stitch made. Using a needle, pull yarn tail from front to back through the 2 top loops of the 2nd stitch of the round. Then, pull tail from top to bottom through the center of the top 2 loops of the last stitch of the round. This creates a “false” stitch that you can crochet into in the following rounds.

Front Post Double Crochet (fp dc): yo, pick up COLUMN by inserting from right to left and pulling the column towards you, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook two times

Front Post Triple Crochet (fp tr): yo twice, pick up COLUMN by inserting from right to left and pulling the column towards you, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook three times

Special Stitches Guide Continued

Front Post Triple Crochet 2 Together (fp tr2tog): yo twice, pick up FIRST COLUMN, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook TWO times (2 lps remaining), yo twice, pick up SECOND COLUMN, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook TWO times (3 lps remaining), yo and pull through all lps on hook

Front Post Double Crochet 3 Together (fp tr3tog): yo, pick up FIRST COLUMN, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook (2 lps remaining), yo, pick up SECOND COLUMN, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook (3 lps remaining), yo, pick up THIRD COLUMN, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook (4 lps remaining),yo and pull through all lps on hook

Front Post Triple Crochet 3 Together (fp tr3tog): yo twice, pick up FIRST COLUMN, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook TWO times (2 lps remaining), yo twice, pick up SECOND COLUMN, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook TWO times (3 lps remaining), yo twice, pick up THIRD COLUMN, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook TWO times (4 lps remaining),yo and pull through all lps on hook

Double-Triple-Double Crochet 3 Together (dc-tr-dc3tog): yo, pick up FIRST COLUMN, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook (2 lps remaining), yo twice, pick up SECOND COLUMN, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook TWO times (3 lps remaining), yo twice, pick up THIRD COLUMN, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook (4 lps remaining),yo and pull through all lps on hook

Overlay Columns (Easy-Intermediate) 

Colors Needed: 2 BonBon colors and Core Color

With Core Color, Make adjustable ring

Round 1: ch 1, 11 sc in ring, fasten off and complete invisible join. [12 sc]

Round 2: With Core Color,  sl st into any sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, 2 sc in each sp around, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [24 sc]

Round 3: With Color A (color to be used for one set of columns), sl st into first sp of any 2-sc group, ch 1, *dc into corresponding front loop in Round 1**, sc in next 4, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next 3, fasten off. Work invisible join with 1st dc sp. [30 sts: 24 sc, 6 dc]

Round 4: With Color B (color for second set of columns), sl st into any dc sp, ch 1, sc in next 2, *tr into corresponding front loop in Round 1 (between columns from last round)**, sc in next 5, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next 2, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [36 sts: 30 sc, 6 tr]

Round 5: With Color A, sl st into any tr sp, ch 1, sc in next 2, *fp dc around corresponding column from Round 3, sk next**, sc in next 5, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next 2, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [36 sts: 30 sc, 6 fp dc]

Round 6: With Color B, sl st into any dc sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, *sc in next 2, fp dc around corresponding column from Round 4, sk next**, sc in next 2, 2 sc in next, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next 2, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [42 sts: 36 sc, 6 fp dc]

Round 7: With Color A, sl st into any dr sp, ch 1, sc in next 3, *fp dc around corresponding column from Round 5**, sc in next 7, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next 3, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [48 sts: 42 sc, 6 fp dc]

Overlay Columns Continued

Round 8: With Color B, sl st into any dr sp, ch 1, sc in next 4, *fp dc around corresponding column from Round 6**, sc in next 8, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next 3, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [54 sts: 48 sc, 6 fp dc]

Round 9: With Color A, sl st into any dc sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, *sc in next 4, fp dc around corresponding column from Round 7, sk next**, sc in next 4, 2 sc in next, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next 2, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [66 sts: 60 sc, 6 fp dc]

Round 10: With Color B, sl st into any dr sp, ch 1, sc in next 5, *fp dc around corresponding column from Round 8**, sc in next 11, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next 5, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [72 sts: 66 sc, 6 fp dc]

Round 11: With Color A, sl st into any dr sp, ch 1, sc in next 5, *fp dc around corresponding column from Round 9, sk next sp**, sc in next 11, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next 5, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [72 sts: 66 sc, 6 fp dc]

See Circle-to-Square Steps to square it out. Weave in all ends.

Overlay Diamonds (Intermediate)

Colors Needed: 2 BonBon colors and Core Color

With Core Color, Make adjustable ring

Round 1: ch 1, 11 sc in ring, fasten off and complete invisible join. [12 sc]

Round 2: With Core Color,  sl st into any sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, 2 sc in each sp around, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [24 sc]

Round 3: With Color A (color to be used for diamonds), sl st into first sp of any 2-sc group, ch 1, *dc into corresponding front loop in Round 1**, sc in next 4, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next 3, fasten off. Work invisible join with 1st dc sp. [30 sts: 24 sc, 6 dc]

Round 4: With Color B (color for columns), sl st into any dc sp, ch 1, sc in next 2, *tr into corresponding front loop in Round 1 (between columns from last round)**, sc in next 5, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next 2, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [36 sts: 30 sc, 6 tr]

Round 5: With Color A, sl st into any tr sp, ch 1, sc in next, *dc into front loop of column (to left) from Round 3, sc in next, fp dc around corresponding column from Round 3, sk next sp, sc in next, dc into front loop of same sp (to right) BEHIND fp dc just created (3 prongs created from one column)**, sc in next 3, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [48 sts: 30 sc, 18 dc]

Round 6: With Color B, sl st into first column of any 3-prong combination, ch 1, sc in next 5, *fp dc around corresponding column from Round 5, sk next sp**, sc in next 7, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [48 sts: 42 sc, 6 dc]

Overlay Diamonds Continued

Round 7: With Color A, sl st into any dc, ch 1, sc in next, *fp dc around right column of combo, sc in next 2, fp dc around center column, sk next, sc in next 2, fp dc around left column of combo, sc in next 3, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [60 sts: 42 sc, 18 dc]

Round 8: With Color B, sl st in to right dc of any dc combo, ch 1, sc in next 7, *fp dc around corresponding column from Round 6, sk next sp**, sc in next 9, repeat from * ending last rep with **, sc in next, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [60 sts: 54 sc, 6 dc]

Round 9: With Color A, sl st into any dc, ch 1, sc in next 3, *fp dc around right leg of combo, sc in next, fp dc around center column, sk next, sc in next, fp dc around right column of combo**, sc in next 7, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next 3, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [72 sts: 54 sc, 18 dc]

Round 10: With Color B, sl st in to right dc of any dc combo, ch 1, sc in next 7, *fp dc around corresponding column from Round 6, sk next sp**, sc in next 11, repeat from * ending last rep with **, sc in next 3, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [72 sts: 66 sc, 6 dc]

Round 11: With Color A, sl st into any dc, ch 1, sc in next 5, *fp dc3tog across each column from Round 9, sk next**, sc in next 11, repeat from * ending last rep with **, sc in next 5, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [72 sts: 66 sc, 6 dc3tog]

See Circle-to-Square Steps to square it out. Weave in all ends.

Overlay Flower (Advanced)

Colors Needed: 2 BonBon colors and Core Color

With Core Color, Make adjustable ring

Round 1: ch 1 (count as sc here and throughout), 11 sc in ring, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [12 sc]

Round 2: With Core Color,  sl st into any sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, 2 sc in each sp around, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [24 sc]

Round 3: With Color A (color to be used for outlining flower petals), sl st into any first sc of any 2-sc group, ch 1, sc in next sp, *dc into front loop of corresponding Round 1 sp, sc in next 2 sp, dc into same front loop (creating a V)**, sc in next 2 sp, repeat from * ending last rep at **, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [36 sts: 12 dc forming 6 V’s, 24 sc]

Round 4: With Color B (color for columns), sl st into any “left leg” dc sp, ch 1, sc in next sp, *tr into corresponding front loop in Round 1 (between V’s from previous round)**, sc in next 6 sp, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next 4 sp, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [42 sts: 6 tr, 36 sc]

Round 5: With Color C (color for center of petals), sl st into any of the tr sp, ch 1, sc in next 3 sp, *dc-tr-dc3tog with dc in corresponding Round 3 front loops (2 sp between V) and tr in corresponding Round 2 front loop (between V) {Note: see instructions for this stitch in stitches guide}**, sc in next 7, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next 4 sp, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [48 sts: 6 dc-tr-dc3tog, 42 sc]

Round 6: With Color A, sl st into any 3tog sp, ch 1, sc in next, *fp tr around corresponding left leg from Round 3, sc in next 5, fp tr around corresponding right leg**, sc in next 3, repeat from *ending last rep at **, sc in next sp, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [60 sts: 12 fp tr, 48 sc]

 

Overlay Flower Continued

Round 7: With Color B, sl st into any “left leg” tr sp, ch 1, sc in next 4, *fp tr around corresponding column from Round 4**, sc in next 10, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next 5, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [66 sts: 6 fp tr, 60 sc]

Round 8: With Color C, sl st into any tr sp, ch 1, sc in next 4 sp, *fp tr3tog around each of the columns from the dc-tr-dc3tog in Round 5 {Note: see instructions for this stitch in stitches guide}, sk next st (center of flower st)**, sc in next 10, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next 5, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [66 sts: 6 fp tr3tog, 60 sc]

Round 9: With Color A, sl st into any sp before a tr3tog sp, ch 1, fp tr2tog around each of the legs from Round 6 (outline of flower columns), sk next sp**, sc in next 10, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next 9, fasten off. Work invisible join into tr2tog st. [66 sts: 6 fp tr2tog, 60 sc]

Round 10: With Color B, sl st into any tr2tog sp, ch 1, sc in next 5, *fp tr around corresponding column from Round 7**, sc in next 11, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next 5, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [72 sts: 6 fp tr, 66 sc]

Round 11: With Color A, sl st into any tr sp, sc in next 5, *fp dc around BOTH columns from Round 9, sk next sp**, sc in next 11, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next 5, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [72 sts: 6 fp dc, 66 sc]

See Circle-to-Square Steps to square it out. Weave in all ends.

 

Overlay Columns:

Easy-Intermediate due to shaping of circle and every round being different stitch counts.

Overlay Diamonds:

Intermediate due to shaping of circle and several special stitches

Overlay Flower:

Advanced due to shaping of circle and usage of multiple special stitches

Circle-To-Square Steps

For the next 2 rounds, BOTH front and back loops are picked up with each st. 

Round 12: Before starting this round, select which stitch would host a corner of your square (mainly for alignment of the circle into square) and count 6 spaces AFTER that corner sp- this is where you’ll start this round. With Core Color, sl st into 6th sp after desired corner sp, ch 1, sc in next 6 sp, *hdc in next 2, dc in next 2, tr in next, (tr, ch 2, tr) in next, tr in next, dc in next 2, hdc in next 2**, sc in next 7, repeat from * ending last rep at **, fasten off (for consistency purposes). Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [76 sts and 4 ch-2 sp; 19/side]

Round 13: With Core Color, sl st into sp before any corner, ch 1, *(2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc) in ch-2 sp**, sc in each sp across to corner, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in each sp to 2nd last sp of side, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [92 sts and 4 ch-2 sp; 23/side]

Finishing Designs

If Coasters are desired, pattern is done as is- either a circle or squared out. Optionally, to make it non-slip, sew non-slip fabric (for example: Tenura non slip fabric) to center of back.

For Potholder, make 8 squares of desired designs. After all 8 are made, sew 4 squares together with all designs facing one direction to make a larger square (2 x 2). After the two large squares are completed, line up the two larger squares with back of designs facing each other (right side facing out of either side) and crochet together around with Core Color.

Pattern Declaimer

This is a paid pattern originally designed for a Yarn Bits Shop subscription box. 

You have permission to sell any item made from this pattern. However, you are not allowed to resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern or downloads in any printed or digital form (in full), or to claim the pattern as your own original design. If you want to sell or share a picture of your work from this pattern, please clearly credit the design to me: Lauren Samar of Yarn Bits Shop (with link to the website when applicable). 

Occasionally a mistake or typo falls through, please report them via email (help@yarnbitsshop.com) and the pattern will be updated accordingly.

Posted on

CM January 2021: Hoooked Spiral Rug

Hoooked Spiral Rug

January 2021 CrochetMastery

Designed by Lauren Samar for Yarn Bits Shop

Feel free to email for pattern help or questions: help@yarnbitsshop.com

January 2021- CrochetMastery: Hoooked Spiral Rug

Skill Level: Intermediate to Intermediate-Advanced

Hook Size: 10mm

Hoooked Yarns is mainly known for their recycled t-shirt/fabrics yarn and it is a really fun yarn to work with for larger projects that do not need to be very flexible. This yarn is perfect for a rug and the pattern features several spirals! The continuous spiral technique is ideal for fewer ends to weave in with color changes as well as less seams with the round changes.The gauge is NOT provided in the pattern BUT a ROUGH dimension is due to the nature of the yarn- even the same batch can vary a bit with thickness and stretchiness.The main thing to focus on is continuously checking that it is not too warped after each round- this will ensure that the rug finishes flat enough for usage! 

In this box, there is: 

  • 3 skeins of Hoooked Zpagetti Yarns, 2 in one color and 1 in another color- $33
  • Size M/10mm Crochet Hook- $5
  • Handmade by Lauren Stitch Markers – $6 
  • Exclusive Pattern and Support- $10

Included in your subscription:

  • VIP membership- $15/month
  • Monthly Masterclass- $50-100/month
  • Exclusive Facebook Group- $150+/month (but connections are priceless!)
    • More excitement coming soon! 
  • Yarn Bits Shop Hub access 

Stitches/Abbreviation Guide:

Yarn Over (yo); Space (sp); Stitch (st); Skip (sk); Loop (lp)

Chain (ch): with one lp on hook, yo and pull through the lp on hook

Slip Stitch (sl st): insert hook into target sp, yo and pull through sp AND lp on hook

Single Crochet (sc): insert hook into target sp, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through both lps on hook

Single Crochet Two Together (sc2tog): insert hook into first target sp, yo and pull through sp, insert hook into second target sp, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through all lps on hook

Single Crochet Three Together (sc3tog): insert hook into first target sp, yo and pull through sp, insert hook into second target sp, yo and pull through sp, insert hook into third target sp, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through all lps on hook

Half Double Crochet (hdc): yo, insert hook into target sp, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through all three lps on hook

Double Crochet (dc): yo, insert hook into target sp, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook two times

Overall Layout Notes

Prior to starting the below motifs, decide the general layout of the rug. Due to the nature of the yarn, an exact size cannot be determined with the amount of yarn due to the yarn variations in thickness/stretchiness. With the yarn included, 4 continuous spirals can be made (with the spiral being obvious in the pattern) and they can be attached in a 2×2 pattern and the center filled. 

Smaller circles with 1-3 less rounds prior to the border round can also be made by following the patterns and ending them earlier. With this option, more circles can be created and laid out in 2×3 pattern instead of a square. The center gap is filled but the edges stay rounded. However-the outside valleys can be filled optionally with the border rounds 

Another alternative is to work one large circle in the pattern- the continuous spiral with three strands is recommended in this case. Or even two large circles attached at the sides for a 1×2 rug is an option.

Continuous Spiral- Two Strands 

This version uses two of the three skeins- one of each so that the spiral is visible. The main stitch here is half double crochet. Check if there is warping after each round by laying the circle on a flat surface and ensure it is flat. If it is warped, either undo the previous round and do a round of NO increases (like Round 6) then go back and complete the round skipped since the numbers should remain the same. 

As mentioned in the overall notes, smaller circles can be made- work desired number of rounds and then the finishing round. 

Make a magic ring with yarn 1.

Round 1

  • With yarn 1: 
    • ch 2, 4 hdc in ring. 
    • Drop loop from hook, place stitch marker in loop if desired. 
  • With yarn 2: 
    • sl st into ring and ch 2
    • hdc 4 in ring
  • Continuing with yarn 2:
    • 3 hdc around the beg ch of yarn 1. 
    • Drop loop from hook, place marker in loop if desired. 
  • Picking up yarn 1 loop, 3 hdc around beg ch of yarn 2. 

Stitches Count: 7 st of each color / 14 hdc total

 

Round 2:

  • With each strand:
    • skip first hdc immediately after the beg ch
    • 2 hdc in each of next 6 sp
    • Drop loop from hook, place marker in loop if desired. 

Stitches Count: 12 st of each color / 24 hdc total

 

Round 3:

  • With each strand:
    • {1 hdc in next, 2 hdc in next} 6 times
    • Drop loop from hook, place marker in loop if desired. 

Stitches Count: 18 st of each color / 36 hdc total

 

Round 4:

  • With each strand:
    • {1 hdc in next 2, 2 dc in next} 6 times
    • Drop loop from hook, place marker in loop if desired. 

Stitches Count: 24 st of each color / 48 hdc total

 

Round 5:

  • With each strand:
    • {1 hdc in next 3, 2 dc in next} 6 times
    • Drop loop from hook, place marker in loop if desired. 

Stitches Count: 30 st of each color / 60 hdc total

 

Round 6:

  • With each strand:
    • 1 hdc in next 30 sp (no increases)
    • Drop loop from hook, place marker in loop if desired. 

Stitches Count: 30 st of each color / 60 hdc total

 

Round 7:

  • With each strand:
    • {1 hdc in next 4, 2 dc in next} 6 times
    • Drop loop from hook, place marker in loop if desired. 

Stitches Count: 36 st of each color / 72 hdc total

 

Round 8

  • With each strand:
    • 1 hdc in next 36 sp (no increases)
    • Drop loop from hook, place marker in loop if desired. 

Stitches Count: 36 st of each color / 72 hdc total

 

Finishing Round

  • For each yarn strand: hdc in next, sc in next, sl st in next 2
  • If the printed yarn was used, fasten off. If both were the solid yarns, fasten off one of them. 
  • With remaining strand and NOT joining with other circles, 
    • ch 1, sc in same sp 
    • sc in each sp around
    • sl st to first sc and fasten off. 
  • If this circle is ready to be joined with the other motifs,
    • ch 1, sc in same sp 
    • sc in each sp to joining sps
    • Join with 4 sts (repeat steps below 4 times). 
      • Joining steps: Drop loop from hook, pick up space on other circle from top to bottom, pick up loop and pull through sp, sc in next sp of working circle
      • There should be 14 sp between the 4 joining sp on a circle
    • Continue with sc in each sp to end of round
    • sl st to first sc and fasten off

Stitches Count: 72 sc total

Continuous Spiral- Three Strands 

This version uses all three skeins to create a “thicker” spiral. The main stitch for this spiral is dc. Check if there is warping after each round by laying the circle on a flat surface and ensure it is flat. If it is warped, either undo the previous round and do a round of NO increases (like Round 6) then go back and complete the round skipped since the numbers should remain the same. 

 

As mentioned in the overall notes, smaller circles can be made- work desired number of rounds and then the finishing round. This pattern is also ideal for a single large circle rug if desired- continue pattern of increasing rounds and no increasing rounds until all yarn is used up or desired size is reached. 

Make a magic ring with yarn 1.

Round 1

  • With yarn 1: 
    • ch 3, 3 dc in ring. 
    • Drop loop from hook, place stitch marker in loop if desired. 
  • With yarn 2: 
    • sl st into ring and ch 3
    • dc 3 in ring
    • Drop loop from hook, place stitch marker in loop if desired. 
  • With yarn 3:
    •  sl st into ring and ch 3
    • dc 3 in ring
    • Drop loop from hook, place stitch marker in loop if desired. 
  • Continuing with yarn 3:
    • 2 dc around the beg ch of yarn 1. 
    • Drop loop from hook, place marker in loop if desired. 
  • Picking up yarn 1 loop, 2 dc around beg ch of yarn 2. 
  • Picking up yarn 2 loop, 2 dc around beg ch of yarn 3. 

Stitches Count: 5 st of each color / 15 dc total

 

Round 2:

  • With each strand:
    • 2 dc in each of next 5 sp
    • Drop loop from hook, place marker in loop if desired. 

Stitches Count: 10 st of each color / 30 dc total

 

Round 3:

  • With each strand:
    • {1 dc in next, 2 dc in next} 5 times
    • Drop loop from hook, place marker in loop if desired. 

Stitches Count: 15 st of each color / 45 dc total

 

Round 4:

  • With each strand:
    • {1 dc in next 2, 2 dc in next} 5 times
    • Drop loop from hook, place marker in loop if desired. 

Stitches Count: 20 st of each color / 60 dc total

 

Round 5:

  • With each strand:
    • {1 dc in next 3, 2 dc in next} 5 times
    • Drop loop from hook, place marker in loop if desired. 

Stitches Count: 25 st of each color / 75 dc total

 

Round 6:

  • With each strand:
    • dc in next 25 sp
    • Drop loop from hook, place marker in loop if desired. 

Stitches Count: 25 st of each color / 75 dc total

 

Finishing Round

  • For each yarn strand: dc in next, hdc in next, sc in next, sl st in next 2
  • Fasten off the printed strand and one of the solid strands. 
  • With remaining strand and NOT joining with other circles, 
    • ch 1, sc in same sp 
    • sc in each sp around
    • sl st to first sc and fasten off. 
  • If this circle is ready to be joined with the other motifs,
    • ch 1, sc in same sp 
    • sc in each sp to joining sps
    • Join with 4 sts (repeat steps below 4 times). 
      • Joining steps: Drop loop from hook, pick up space on other circle from top to bottom, pick up loop and pull through sp, sc in next sp of working circle
      • There should be 14-15 sp between the 4 joining sp on a circle (whatever looks better and makes sense with the circles you have)
    • Continue with sc in each sp to end of round
    • sl st to first sc and fasten off

Stitches Count: 75 sc total

Finishing Overall Rug

Once all desired circles have been made and joined along the way (with second and on circles), there may be a gap at the middle of circles if multiple circles were used. Use the following guidelines to fill in the gap(s)- it is not an exact number of stitches due to variations in size as desired.

Gap Round 1

  • sl st into any sp in the middle of a side, ch 1 and sc in same sp
  • *sc in each sp until 3 sp before point (where circles were joined)
  • sc2tog over next 2 sp
  • sc2tog with sp on current side before point and sp on other side of point
  • sc2tog over next 2 sp**
  • Repeat from * to ** around through all points 
  • sc in each sp to beg sc, sl st to beg sc



Gap Round 2:

  • ch 1, sc in same sp
  • *sc in each sp until 1 sp before center of point st
  • sc3tog over next sp, center sp, and sp on next side
  • Repeat from * around
  • sl st to beg sc

Repeat Gap Round 2 until it’s just a circle in the gap. Divide the number of sp by 2 and complete sc-tog with half of the remaining sp twice (sc4tog for example). Divide by 3 if needed. 

 

Fasten off and weave in ends. Repeat gap work for all gaps. 

 

A border can be worked for the whole outside edge of the rug and curve out the points (where circles meet) by following this general pattern: 

  • sl st into any sp, ch 1 and sc in same sp
  • *Work inc section according to last inc round of spiral to 3 sp prior to point
    • For example, if last round of increases was {1 hdc/dc in each of next 4 sp, 2 hdc/dc in next}, this round should be +1 of the number stitches between the 2 hdc/dc or {1 sc in each of next 5 sp, 2 sc in next}
    • Check for warping, add more increases sp (2 sc) evenly spread out as needed! 
  • Work decreases at point: 
    • FIRST ROUND of border ONLY: sc2tog over next 2 sp prior to point, sc2tog over next 2 sp over point (1 sp on either side), sc2tog over next 2 sp
    • SECOND ROUND of border and so forth: sc2tog over next 2 sp prior to point, sc3tog over next 3 sp over point (1 sp on either side and center sp), sc2tog over next 2 sp. 
      • If it’s starting to warp too much, sc2tog may not be needed on either side of sc3tog at center. 
  • Repeat from * around, check for warping.
    • If it is curving up, more increases may be needed. 
    • If it is warping, the increasing round is not needed. 
    • The goal is to make it flat and due to the nature of the yarn, it just needs to be checked continuously.

Pattern Declaimer

This is a paid pattern originally designed for a Yarn Bits Shop subscription box. 

You have permission to sell any item made from this pattern. However, you are not allowed to resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern or downloads in any printed or digital form (in full), or to claim the pattern as your own original design. If you want to sell or share a picture of your work from this pattern, please clearly credit the design to me: Lauren Samar of Yarn Bits Shop (with link to the website when applicable). 

Occasionally a mistake or typo falls through, please report them via email (help@yarnbitsshop.com) and the pattern will be updated accordingly.

Posted on

BB October 2020 Center Motifs Into Rows Blanket

Center Motifs Into Rows Blanket

October 2020 BlanketBox
Throw sized- Large would have more rows on either side of the blanket (and… ignore the unwoven ends!)

Designed by Lauren Samar for Yarn Bits Shop

Feel free to email for pattern help or questions: help@yarnbitsshop.com

This design was inspired by the thought of combining ROWS work with MOTIF work and the result is a center section of motifs with rows working away from the center. The circle-in-square motifs are created first then attached together point to point to create the main length of the blanket. The “valley” gaps are then filled to create a rectangle for the rows to work off of. Then the rows are worked away from the center section on either side. Overall, the pattern has multiple aspects but must be worked in an orderly way.

Center Motifs Into Rows Blanket Pattern

Supplies: 

11/15 (Throw/Large Throw) Skeins of Universal Yarns Uptown Worsted in 4 colors

Size I Crochet Hook

Darning Needle

 

Skill Level: Intermediate with easier option for rows section.

 

Dimensions: 

Throw: ~55 inches long and 36 inches wide

Large Throw: ~58 inches long and 48 inches wide

 

Gauge: N/A

 

A couple notes

~ One color will have one less skein than the others BUT with the way that the rows are worked, this color does not HAVE to be the circle center of the motifs as designed. This color only should not be used to fill in the valleys. Otherwise, the design is flexible with the color orders. 

~ There are two size designs- Throw and Large Throw (first time being offered!). The core design is based on the THROW size. Large Throw is simply a continuation width wise in this case.

~ The design presented here is Intermediate. To make the rows section easier, simply skip doing the special stitches and work half doubles or doubles in the color order desired. The overall look will be very similar (maybe a bit more “solid”). 




Stitches/Abbreviation Guide:

Yarn Over (yo); Space (sp); Stitch (st); Skip (sk); Loop (lp)

Magic Ring: an adjustable ring used at the center to help tighten the gap after crocheting the first round. 

Chain (ch): with one lp on hook, yo and pull through the lp on hook

Slip Stitch (sl st): insert hook into target sp, yo and pull through sp AND lp on hook

Single Crochet (sc): insert hook into target sp, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through both lps on hook

Half Double Crochet (hdc): yo, insert hook into target sp, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through all three lps on hook

Double Crochet (dc): yo, insert hook into target sp, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook two times

Triple Crochet (tr): yo twice, insert hook into target sp, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook three times

Half Double Crochet 2 Together (hdc2tog): yo, insert hook into first target sp, yo and pull through sp (3 loops on hook), yo, insert hook into second target sp, yo and pull through sp (5 loops on hook), yo and pull through all loops on hook

Half Double Crochet 3 Together (hdc3tog): yo, insert hook into first target sp, yo and pull through sp (3 loops on hook), yo, insert hook into second target sp, yo and pull through sp (5 loops on hook), yo, insert hook into third target sp, yo and pull through sp (7 loops on hook), yo and pull through all loops on hook

Single Crochet 2 Together (sc2tog): insert hook into first target sp, yo and pull through sp (2 loops on hook), insert hook into second target sp, yo and pull through sp (3 loops on hook), yo and pull through all loops on hook

Crossed Double Crochet: This is worked over 2 sp. sk first sp, dc in 2nd sp, dc in first sp going around the back of the work

Puff Stitch: [yo, insert hook in sp, yo and pull through sp] 3 times in same sp, yo and pull through all loops on hook, ch 1

Color combinations

There are 4 colors in the pattern- three of them have the same amount of skeins (3 for Throw and 4 for Large Throw) and one color has one less skein (2 for Throw and 3 for Large Throw). In the example blanket, one less skein color is the one used in the center of the motifs (the circles). This was designed on purpose but it is not necessary to choose that color for the circles in the motif- you just may need to adjust the row color orders.

Make one of each size circle-in-square motif. Each size is its own section. 

ALTERNATIVELY, make 5 of the same size or even 3 of one size and 2 of another size (to put in following order: 1, 2, 1, 2, 1)

Circle to Square Motif- 1 Round Circle 

With Color A, Make an adjustable ring. 

Round 1: ch 3 (counts as dc)

  • 11 dc in ring
  • sl st to top of beg ch
  • fasten off. 
  • Stitches count: 12 dc

Round 2: With Color B, sl st into any sp

  • ch 1, sc in same sp
  • *2 hdc in next sp, ch 2, 2 hdc in next sp**, sc in next
  • repeat from * around ending at **
  • sl st in first sc
  • Stitches count: 4 corner sp, 5 st/side or 20 st total.

Round 3: ch 2, hdc in same sp

  • hdc in each sp and (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in each corner sp around
  • sl at to first hdc
  • Stitches count: 4 corner sp, 9 st/side or 36 st total.

Round 4: ch 2, hdc in same sp

  • hdc in each sp and (1 hdc, ch 2, 1 hdc) in each corner sp around
  • sl st to first hdc
  • Stitches count: 4 corner sp, 11 st/side or 44 st total

Round 5-10: Repeat round 4, increasing the number of st/side by 2 each round (or the total by 8 each round)

Stitches Counts:

Round 5: 13 st/side, 52 st total

Round 6: 15 st/side, 60 st total

Round 7: 17 st/side, 68 st total

Round 8: 19 st/side, 76 st total

Round 9: 21 st/side, 84 st total

Round 10: 23 st/side, 92 st total

 

Fasten off and weave in ends. 

Circle to Square Motif- 2 Rounds Circle 

With Color A, Make an adjustable ring. 

Round 1: ch 3 (counts as dc), 

  • 11 dc in ring
  • sl st to top of beg ch
  • Stitches count: 12 dc

Round 2: ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same sp

  • 2 dc in each sp around
  • sl st to top of beg ch and fasten off
  • Stitches count: 24 dc

Round 3: With Color B, sl st into any sp 

  • ch 1, 2 sc in same sp
  • *sc in next, hdc in next, (1 hdc and 1 dc) in next sp, ch 2, (1 dc and 1 hdc) in next sp, hdc in next sp**, 2 sc in next
  • repeat from * around ending at **
  • sl st in first sc.
  • Stitches count: 4 corner sp, 9 st/side or 36 st total.

Round 4: ch 2, hdc in same sp

  • hdc in each sp and (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in each corner sp around
  • sl at to first hdc
  • Stitches count: 4 corner sp, 13 st/side or 52 st total.

Round 5: ch 2, hdc in same sp

  • hdc in each sp and (1 hdc, ch 2, 1 hdc) in each corner sp around
  • sl st to first hdc
  • Stitches count: 4 corner sp, 15 st/side or 60 st total

Round 6-9: Repeat round 5, increasing the number of st/side by 2 each round (or the total by 8 each round)

Stitches Counts:

Round 6: 17 st/side, 68 st total

Round 7: 19 st/side, 76 st total

Round 8: 21 st/side, 84 st total

Round 9: 23 st/side, 92 st total

 

Fasten off and weave in ends. 

Circle to Square Motif- 3 Rounds Circle 

With Color A, Make an adjustable ring. 

Round 1: ch 3 (counts as dc)

  • 11 dc in ring
  • sl st to top of beg ch
  • Stitches count: 12 dc

Round 2: ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same sp

  • 2 dc in each sp around
  • sl st to top of beg ch
  • Stitches count: 24 dc

Round 3: ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same sp

  • *1 dc in next, 2 dc in next
  • repeat from * around to last sp
  • dc in last sp
  • sl st to top of beg ch and fasten off
  • Stitches count: 36 dc

Round 4: With Color B, sl st into any sp

  • ch 1, sc in same sp
  • sc in next 2
  • *hdc in next 2, 2 dc in next sp, ch 2, 2 dc in next sp, hdc in next 2 sp**, sc in next 3
  • repeat from * around ending at **
  • sl st in first sc
  • Stitches count: 4 corner sp, 11 st/side or 44 st total.

Round 5: ch 2, hdc in same sp, 

  • hdc in each sp and (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in each corner sp around
  • sl at to first hdc
  • Stitches count: 4 corner sp, 15 st/side or 60 st total.

Round 6: ch 2, hdc in same sp

  • hdc in each sp and (1 hdc, ch 2, 1 hdc) in each corner sp around
  • sl st to first hdc
  • Stitches count: 4 corner sp, 17 st/side or 68 st total

Round 7-9: Repeat round 6, increasing the number of st/side by 2 each round (or the total by 8 each round)

Stitches Counts:

Round 7: 19 st/side, 76 st total

Round 8: 21 st/side, 84 st total

Round 9: 23 st/side, 92 st total

 

Fasten off and weave in ends. 

Circle to Square Motif- 4 Rounds Circle 

With Color A, Make an adjustable ring. 

Round 1: ch 3 (counts as dc)

  • 11 dc in ring
  • sl st to top of beg ch
  • Stitches count: 12 dc

Round 2: ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same sp

  • 2 dc in each sp around
  • sl st to top of beg ch
  • Stitches count: 24 dc

Round 3: ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same sp

  • *1 dc in next, 2 dc in next
  • repeat from * around to last sp
  • dc in last sp
  • sl st to top of beg ch and fasten off
  • Stitches count: 36 dc

Round 4: ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next sp

  • *2 dc in next, dc in next 2 sp, 
  • repeat from * around to last sp
  • 2 dc in last sp
  • sl st to top of beg ch
  • Stitches count: 48 dc

Round 5: With Color B, sl st into any sp

  • ch 1, 2 sc in same sp
  • sc in next 3
  • *hdc in next 2, dc in next, 2 dc in next sp, ch 2, 2 dc in next sp, dc in next, hdc in next 2 sp**, 2 sc in next, sc in next 3
  • repeat from * around ending at **
  • sl st in first sc.
  • Stitches count: 4 corner sp, 15 st/side or 60 st total.

Round 6: ch 2, hdc in same sp

  • hdc in each sp and (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in each corner sp around
  • sl at to first hdc
  • Stitches count: 4 corner sp, 19 st/side or 76 st total.

Round 7: ch 2, hdc in same sp

  • hdc in each sp and (1 hdc, ch 2, 1 hdc) in each corner sp around
  • sl st to first hdc
  • Stitches count: 4 corner sp, 21 st/side or 84 st total

Round 8: Repeat round 7, increasing the number of st/side by 2 each round (or the total by 8 each round)

Stitches count: 23 st/side, 92 st total

 

Fasten off and weave in ends. 

Circle to Square Motif- 5 Rounds Circle 

With Color A, Make an adjustable ring. 

Round 1: ch 3 (counts as dc)

  • 11 dc in ring
  • sl st to top of beg ch
  • Stitches count: 12 dc

Round 2: ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same sp

  • 2 dc in each sp around
  • sl st to top of beg ch
  • Stitches count: 24 dc

Round 3: ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same sp

  • *1 dc in next, 2 dc in next
  • repeat from * around to last sp
  • dc in last sp
  • sl st to top of beg ch and fasten off
  • Stitches count: 36 dc

Round 4: ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next sp

  • *2 dc in next, dc in next 2 sp, 
  • repeat from * around to last sp
  • 2 dc in last sp
  • sl st to top of beg ch
  • Stitches count: 48 dc

Round 5: ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same sp

  • *dc in next 3 sp, **2 dc in next
  • repeat from * around ending at **
  • sl st to top of beg ch
  • Stitches count: 60 dc

Round 6: With Color B, sl st into any sp, 

  • ch 1, sc in same sp
  • sc in next 4, 
  • *hdc in next 2, dc in next 2, (1 dc and 1 tr) in next sp, ch 2, (1 tr and 1 dc) in next sp, dc in next 2, hdc in next 2 sp**, sc in next 5, 
  • repeat from * around ending at **
  • sl st in first sc.
  • Stitches count: 4 corner sp, 17 st/side or 68 st total.

Round 7: ch 2, hdc in same sp

  • hdc in each sp and (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in each corner sp around
  • sl at to first hdc
  • Stitches count: 4 corner sp, 21 st/side or 84 st total.

Round 8: ch 2, hdc in same sp

  • hdc in each sp and (1 hdc, ch 2, 1 hdc) in each corner sp around
  • sl st to first hdc
  • Stitches count: 4 corner sp, 23 st/side or 92 st total

Fasten off and weave in ends. 

Attaching Circle-in-Square Motifs

Part 1

With Color C and the 1-Round Circle-in-Square Motif

Round 1: Sl st into any of the corner sp, ch 2

  • *(2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in corner, hdc in each sp across, 
  • repeat from * around, 
  • sl at to first hdc
  • Stitches count: 4 corner sp, 27 st/side or 108 total sts

Round 2: sl st to sp before corner sp, ch 3, dc in same sp 

  • *(dc, ch 2, dc) in corner sp, dc in next sp, repeat [ch 2 (or ch 1 if loose), sk next sp, dc in next] across to corner sp, 
  • repeat from * around, 
  • sl st to first dc, fasten off.
  • Stitches count: 4 corner sp, 16 dc/side with ch 2 between each except dc before corner sp (29 total sp/side counting dc and ch-2 sps) or 64 dc total around.

Part 2

With same color and 2-Rounds Circle-in-Square Motif

Round 1: Same as first motif’s round 1 

Round 2: sl st to sp before corner sp, ch 3, dc in same sp

  • *(dc, ch 2, dc) in corner sp, dc in next sp, repeat [ch 2 (or ch 1 if loose), sk next sp, dc in next] across to corner sp**
  • repeat from * to ** to 3rd corner
  • (dc, ch 1, sl st to corner sp from previously worked motif to attach the two motifs, ch 1, dc) in 3rd corner sp
  • dc in next sp
  • repeat [ch 2 (or ch 1 if loose), sk next sp, dc in next] across to corner sp
  • sl st to first dc, fasten off.
  • Stitches count: 4 corner sp, 16 dc/side with ch 2 between each except dc before corner sp  (29 total sp/side counting dc and ch-2 sps) or 64 dc total. 2 motifs attached at opposite corners. 

 

Repeat Part 2 with all motifs IN circle size order (3-Rounds, 4-Rounds, 5-Rounds) and attaching 3rd corner to previously worked motif so it is attached at opposite corners. This creates the LENGTH of the overall blanket. 

 

After all motifs are attached, complete the “border” around the edges of the squares, working up and down the sides. Starting at the top or bottom corner, sl st into any sp, ch 2 (does NOT count as a sc so work hdc in same sp), then work your way around with the following: 

  • hdc in each sp
  • hdc in each ch 1 sp
  • (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in all corners (peaks)
  • BEFORE attachment points of circle-in-square motifs, hdc2tog over the two spaces PRIOR to the corners that are attached, hdc2tog with both ch-1 sp on either side of the attachment point in corner, hdc2tog over the next two spaces (3 hdc2tog worked before, at, and after corner attachment points)
  • Stitches count PER SIDE (valley to peak is 1 side): 30 st with 1 st at center of valley OR 33 st/side at ENDS (top/bottom only) with sp in corners/peaks. 

Filling in Valleys of Center

After all the circle-in-square motifs are attached in order, the space between the peaks and the ends (top/bottom) need to be filled to create a rectangle out of the rippled sides. 

For all VALLEYS (area between peaks on sides only- 8 total): 

With Color D, sl st into sp before center of valley sp

Row 1: ch 2

  • hdc3tog (with same sp, center sp, and next sp after center)
  • sl st into next 2 sp, turn 
  • Stitch count: 1 sp at center (not counting sides sl sts), 29 sp/side available (sp sl st into does not count)

Row 2: ch 2 

  • hdc2tog over next 2 sp on side (over sl st sps)
  •  hdc in next sp
  • hdc2tog over next 2 sp on other side of valley
  • sl st into next 2 sp on side, turn
  • Stitch count: 3 sp at center (not counting sides sl sts), 27 sp/side available (sp sl st into does not count)

Row 3: ch 2, 

  • hdc2tog over next 2 sp on side (over sl st sps)
  • hdc each sp across to side
  • hdc2tog over next 2 sp on other side of valley
  • sl st into next 2 sp on side, turn
  • Stitch count: 5 sp (not counting sides sl sts). 25 sp/side available (sp sl st into does not count)

Rows 4-14: Repeat Row 3 and increase the number of hdc sp per row by 2 (and decrease the number of sp on either side of the valley by 2 as well)

 

Stitches Counts

Row 4: 7 sp, 23 sp/side available (sp sl st into does not count)

Row 5: 9 sp, 21 sp/side available

Row 6: 11 sp, 19 sp/side available

Row 7: 13 sp, 17 sp/side available

Row 8: 15 sp, 15 sp/side available

Row 9: 17 sp, 13 sp/side available

Row 10: 19 sp, 11 sp/side available

Row 11: 21 sp, 9 sp/side available

Row 12: 23 sp, 7 sp/side available

Row 13: 25 sp, 5 sp/side available

Row 14: 27 sp, 3 sp/side available

 

Row 15: ch 2 

  • hdc2tog over next 2 sp on side (over sl st sps)
  • hdc each sp across to side
  • hdc2tog over next 2 sp on other side of valley
  • sl st into next sp on side
  • sl st into corner sp (peak), turn
  • Stitches count: 29 sp, 1 sp/side available

Row 16: ch 1

  • sc2tog over next 2 sp on side (over sl st sps)
  • sc in next 3 sps
  • sc2tog over next 2 sp on other side of valley over last sp and in corner
  • fasten off. 
  • Stitches count: 31 sp

 

For all ENDS VALLEYS (areas on top/bottom of the attached squares to smooth out the peaks at top/bottom into a rectangle- 4 total): 

With Color D and with the side to be worked to your left (or right if you’re a left handed crocheter), sl st into corner sp. 

Row 1: ch 2

  • hdc2tog (with same sp and next sp after center)
  • sl st into next 2 sp, turn 
  • Stitch count: 1 sp, 31 sp on side available (sp sl st into does not count)

Row 2: ch 2

  • hdc2tog over next 2 sp on side (over sl st sps)
  • hdc in next sp, turn
  • Stitch count: 2 sp, 29 sp on side available (sp sl st into does not count)

Row 3: ch 2

  • hdc each sp across to side
  • hdc2tog over next 2 sp side
  • sl st into next 2 sp on side, turn
  • Stitch count: 3 sp, 27 sp on side available (sp sl st into does not count)

Rows 4-16: Repeat Row 2-3 and increase the number of hdc sp per row by 1 (and decrease the number of sp on either side of the valley by 2 as well)

Stitches Counts

Row 4: 4 sp, 25 sp/side available (sp sl st into does not count)

Row 5: 5 sp, 23 sp/side available

Row 6: 6 sp, 21 sp/side available

Row 7: 7 sp, 19 sp/side available

Row 8: 8 sp, 17 sp/side available

Row 9: 9 sp, 15 sp/side available

Row 10: 10 sp, 13 sp/side available

Row 11: 11 sp, 11 sp/side available

Row 12: 12 sp, 9 sp/side available

Row 13: 13 sp, 7 sp/side available

Row 14: 14 sp, 5 sp/side available

Row 15: 15 sp, 3 sp/side available

Row 16: 16 sp, 1 sp/side available

 

Row 17: ch 1

  • sc each sp across to side
  • sc2tog over next 1 sp side and in corner sp
  • fasten off.
  • Stitch count: 17 sp

Border around Filled-out Center

After completing all valleys, there are two rounds of borders to even connect the valley work and completely smooth out the sides. 

Round 1:  sl st into any sp on edge with Color D, ch 2, then: 

  • hdc in each sp 
  • 2 hdc in motif corner sps on sides
  • 2 hdc in motif corner sp on top/bottom
  • 1 hdc for each row on top/bottom 
  • (1 hdc, ch 2, 1 hdc) for each corner (4 corners only now!)

Then sl st to first hdc.

Total stitch counts: 170 on long sides and 38 on short sides 

Round 2: ch 2, hdc in each sp around and (1 hdc, ch 2, 1 hdc) in each corner sp, sl st to first hdc. fasten off.

Total stitch counts: 172 on long sides and 40 on short sides (top/bottom)

Center-out Rows

There’s two versions for the rows. The easier version is hdc or dc in each sp back and forth in your color order of choice, alternating long sides to ensure the colors are used up evenly. The more advanced version works a combination of the following stitches: Crossed DC stitches, Puff stitches with ch sp between, hdc, and dc. 

This is one option (More examples after this section): 

Row 1: With Color A, ch 3, dc in first sp, 

  • crossed dc across to last sp
  • dc in last sp, turn.
  • Stitches count: 85 crossed dc sets, 1 dc at each end. 

Row 2: With Color B, sl st into loop, ch 3

  • dc in sp between dc and first crossed dc set
  • *dc in crossed dc (around sp between dc in set, not in dc sp), dc between crossed dc set
  • repeat from * to end
  • dc in sp between last crossed dc set and ending dc
  • Stitches count: 172 dc

Row 3: with same color, ch 3

  • dc in each sp across, turn 
  • Stitches count: 172 dc

Row 4: With Color C, sl st into loop

  • puff stitch in first sp, 
  • *ch 1 (total of ch 2 between puff stitches), sk next sp, puff stitch in next sp, 
  • repeat from * to end, turn
  • Stitches count: 86 puff stitches with ch sp between each

Row 5: With same color, ch 4

  • sk puff stitch
  • *puff st in ch-1 sp, ch 1 
  • repeat from * to end
  • hdc in last sp, turn
  • Stitches count: 85 puff stitches with ch sp between each

Row 6: With Color A, sl st into loop, ch 2

  • 2 hdc in each ch sp across (skipping all puff st sp), turn
  • Stitches count: 172 hdc

Row 7: Repeat Row 4 with color C

Row 8: Repeat Row 5 with color C

Row 9: With Color B, sl st into loop, ch 2

  • 2 dc in each ch sp across (skipping all puff st sp), turn
  • Stitches count: 172 dc

Row 10: With same color, ch 3

  • dc in each sp across, turn 
  • Stitches count: 172 dc

Row 11: With Color A, ch 3, dc in first sp

  •  crossed dc across to last sp
  • dc in last sp, turn.
  • Stitches count: 85 crossed dc sets, 1 dc at each end. 

Repeat rows 2-11 until yarn runs out. 

 

Alternatively with above order: Work rows 1-6 with a different color for row 6, then repeat row 1-6.

 

After running out of one color and if you have other yarn left, you can add the border color in and make a new set of rows at the end to finish the yarn up. In the example blanket, rows 1-11 completed as described above then it was repeated once more (row 2-11). After that, it alternates between a hdc row in color D and a crossed dc sets row in color A until color A runs out. 

 

Options: 

~ Alternate between crossed dcs and hdc or dc rows (repeat row 1-2 from above example)

~ Alternate between puff stitches rows (2 rows recommended) (Repeat 4-6 from above example)

~ Only work rows of hdc and dc in desired color order. 

 

Reminder: work one side of the blanket for that color then work the other side of the blanket with the same row work to ensure that the color is used up equally! 

Border

The border is simple to keep the focus on the overall color work. Use Color D (same color used to fill in the valleys) is recommended but any color can be used.

Round 1: ch 2

  • sc or hdc in each sp around and (1 sc or hdc, ch 2, 1 sc or hdc) in each corner sp, 
  • sl st to first dc/hdc

 

Repeat as desired if you have enough yarn!

Fasten off and weave in ends.  

Pattern Declaimer

This is a paid pattern originally designed for a Yarn Bits Shop subscription box. 

You have permission to sell any item made from this pattern. However, you are not allowed to resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern or downloads in any printed or digital form (in full), or to claim the pattern as your own original design. If you want to sell or share a picture of your work from this pattern, please clearly credit the design to me: Lauren Samar of Yarn Bits Shop (with link to the website when applicable). 

Occasionally a mistake or typo falls through, please report them via email (help@yarnbitsshop.com) and the pattern will be updated accordingly.

Posted on

BB July 2020 Blooming Flower Hexagons Afghan

Blooming Flower Hexagons Afghan

July 2020 BlanketBox

Designed by Lauren Samar for Yarn Bits Shop

Feel free to email for pattern help or questions: help@yarnbitsshop.com

Blooming Flower Hexagons Afghan

Supplies: 

2 skeins of 5 colors of Hook Nook Main Squeeze

Size I Crochet Hook

Darning Needle or Hook Nook End Weaver

Skill Level: Intermediate

Dimensions: 

Blooming Flower Hexagon Dimension: 8 inches across

Expanded Hexagon Dimension: 11 inches across if doing 4 additional rounds

Full blanket dimensions are dependent upon the hexagon size selected but the final dimensions (with yarn provided) should be:

5 columns of 5 8” hexagons: About 32 inches by 39 inches without a border 

4 columns of 6 8” hexagons: About 24 inches by 45 inches without a border

Gauge: 

8 rows of 8 single crochet stitches = 2 by 2 inches

And/Or Blooming Flower Hexagon Dimension = 8 inches across

 

Overlay crocheting is a technique of creating a fabric of single crochet stitches in the back loop only and working additional stitches over the fabric in the front loop of below rows to create different designs. In this pattern, we are creating hexagons with a flower design blooming from the center utilizing the overlay crochet technique. Using five different colors, you have the option to make every single hexagon different with the color order (more on this in the Color Combination section). The border of the hexagons is up to you. You have the option to leave the Blooming Flower Hexagon pattern as designed and create solid hexagons for spacing between the Blooming Flower ones. Alternatively, you can add additional rounds to the main hexagon design (making the hexagon larger) and not make any solid hexagons at all. Lastly, depending on the layout of your blanket, make half hexagons to fill in the gaps at the top and bottom of the blanket. The sides will be rippled but with the half hexagons, the top/bottom will be flat. 

 

Stitches/Abbreviation Guide:

Yarn Over (yo); Space (sp); Stitch (st); Skip (sk); Loop (lp)

Magic Ring: an adjustable ring used at the center to help tighten the gap after crocheting the first round. 

Chain (ch): with one lp on hook, yo and pull through the lp on hook

Slip Stitch (sl st): insert hook into target sp, yo and pull through sp AND lp on hook

Single Crochet (sc): insert hook into target sp, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through both lps on hook

Single Crochet Two Together (sc2tog): insert hook into first target sp, yo and pull through sp, insert hook into second target sp, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through all lps on hook

Half Double Crochet (hdc): yo, insert hook into target sp, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through all three lps on hook

Double Crochet (dc): yo, insert hook into target sp, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook two times

Triple Crochet (tr): yo twice, insert hook into target sp, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook three times

Double Triple Crochet (dt): yo three times, insert hook into target sp, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook four times

Front Post Triple Crochet (fp tr): yo twice, pick up COLUMN by inserting from right to left and pulling the column towards you, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook three times

Front Post Double Triple Crochet (fp dt): yo three times, pick up COLUMN by inserting from right to left and pulling the column towards you, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook four times

Triple Crochet Two Together (tp2tog): yo twice, insert hook into FIRST target sp, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook TWO times (2 lps remaining), yo twice, insert hook into SECOND target sp, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook TWO times (3 lps remaining), yo and pull through all lps on hook

Double Triple Crochet Two Together (dt2tog): yo three times, insert hook into FIRST target sp, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook THREE times (2 lps remaining), yo three times, insert hook into SECOND target sp, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook THREE times (3 lps remaining), yo and pull through all lps on hook

Invisible Join: After making the last stitch of round, cut yarn (leaving a 4 inch or so tail) and pull through top of last stitch made. Using a needle, pull yarn tail from front to back through the 2 top loops of the 2nd stitch of the round. Then, pull tail from top to bottom through the center of the top 2 loops of the last stitch of the round. This creates a “false” stitch that you can crochet into in the following rounds. 

 

Color Combination Considerations

With five colors for this afghan, it is important to consider how you want the hexagons to look as a whole. Below are several options and how to go about it with each. 

 

SAME color order for all Blooming Flower Hexagons:

This means all the Blooming Flower Hexagons look the same throughout the blanket. This means some colors are used more than others within the hexagon. The colors with least usage in the hexagons would make more solid hexagons. To achieve this, pick a single color order and assign each color the letter to be used throughout the pattern/motifs (Color 1 is always Color A, etc). 

 

All color orders are different for Blooming Flower Hexagons

This means all the Blooming Flower Hexagons look different compared to each other. The easiest way to achieve this is to make 5 hexagons concurrently with all following the same color order BUT starting with a different color. For example: The color order is Color 1, Color 2, Color 3, Color 4, Color 5. 

Hexagon 1: Color 1 = Color A, Color 2 = Color B, Color 3 = Color C, Color 4 = Color D, Color 5 = Color E

Hexagon 2: Color 2 = Color A, Color 3 = Color B, Color 4 = Color C, Color 5 = Color D, Color 1 = Color E

Hexagon 3: Color 3 = Color A, Color 4 = Color B, Color 5 = Color C, Color 1 = Color D, Color 2 = Color E

Hexagon 4: Color 4 = Color A, Color 5 = Color B, Color 1 = Color C, Color 2 = Color D, Color 3 = Color E

Hexagon 5: Color 5 = Color A, Color 1 = Color B, Color 2 = Color C, Color 3 = Color D, Color 4 = Color E

 

With the next set of 5 hexagons, change the overall color order to a different order and follow the order for Hexagons 1-5. Effectively, the hexagon look changes with that. The yarn usage for each color would be the same and you would have the same amount of solid hexagons in each color (if doing smaller hexagons is the plan). 

 

Sets of the same Blooming Flower Hexagons

Follow the same color order for all sets of 5 hexagons so you use the same color order every time so that you have sets of hexagons that are the same AND the yarn usage is the same. This means you would make the same color order hexagon the desired number of times (3 of each Hexagon order from above example). 

 

Number of Hexagons Notes

With 10 skeins of yarn, you should be able to make 30 8 inches hexagons (solid or Blooming Flower) OR 15 11 inches hexagons. This would use up ALL the yarn most likely. It is recommended to make 24-25 of the 8 inches hexagons or about 10-12 11 inches hexagons. 

 

In addition, after making a few Blooming Flower Hexagons start to decide about the layout of the whole blanket so that you can plan for how you want it to eventually look. If the color order of the hexagons are changing to keep the yarn usage equal, aim for finishing the first skein of all the colors (maybe all your Blooming Flower Hexagons without the extra rounds) THEN start finalizing your design with what you have left. 

Blooming Flower Hexagon

Notes: 

~ All stitches are worked in the back loop only unless noted otherwise. 

~ Every round is worked with the same side facing you.

~ Every round is closed with the invisible join- which means the color is fastened off on the last stitch and is NOT slip stitched to the first stitch. See stitch guide for steps of invisible join. 

~ See Color Combinations section for explanation of order of colors and options for whole blanket

Round 1: With Color A- Create a magic ring, ch 2 (counts as hdc), 11 hdc in ring, fasten off. Work invisible join in 2nd hdc. [12 hdc]

Round 2: With Color B- sl st into any sp, ch 1 (counts as sc and throughout), sc in same sp, 2 sc in each sp around to last sp, fasten off. Work invisible join in 2nd sc. [24 sc]

Round 3: With Color C- sl st into the first sc of any 2-sc group, ch 1, *dc in front lp of next corresponding hdc in Round 1**, sc in each of the next 4 sp, repeat around from * ending last rep at **, sc in next 3 sp, fasten off. Work invisible join in first dc. [24 sc, 6 dc] {Note for round: every other lp in Round 1 is picked up here}

Round 4: With Color B- sl st into any dc, ch 1, *sc in next sp, tr in front lp of next corresponding hdc in Round 1, sc in next 2 sp, tr in front loop of same hdc in Round 1 holding previous tr (create V shape from same sp), sk next sp**, sc in next sp (dc from round 3 sp), repeat around from * ending last rep at **, fasten off. Work invisible join in 2nd sc. [24 sc, 12 tr or 6 “V”’s] {Note for round: every other lps not picked up in the previous round is picked up here}

Round 5: With Color D- sl st into any sp, ch 1, sc in each sp around, fasten off. Work invisible join in 2nd sc. [36 sc]

Round 6: With Color C- sl st into any sp corresponding to the left leg of the “V” in Round 4, ch 1, sc in next sp, *fp tr around corresponding dc from Round 3**, sc in next 6 sp, repeat from * around ending last rep at **, sc in next 4, fasten off. Work invisible join in 2nd sc. [36 sc, 6 fp tr (extending columns out from Round 3)]

Round 7: With Color E- sl st into any tr, ch 1,  *sc in next 3 sp, dt2tog over two corresponding front lp spaces in Round 2 (base of dt2tog is between the “V” from Round 4)**, sc in next 4 sp, repeat from * around ending last rep at **, sc in next 3 sp, fasten off. Work invisible join in 2nd sc. [42 sc, 6 dt2tog with base between the “V” from Round 4]

Round 8: With Color B- sl st into 2 spaces before any dt2tog sp, ch 1, sc in next sp, *fp dt2tog around first then second legs of “V” from Round 4, sk Round 7 dt2tog sp**, sc in next 7, repeat from * around ending last rep at **, sc in next 5 sp, fasten off. Work invisible join in 2nd sc. [42 sc, 6 fp dt2tog with each leg extending columns from Round 4 into center of petal]

Round 9: With Color A- sl st into 2 spaces before any dt2tog sp, ch 1, sc in next sp, *dt2tog over corresponding front lps from Round 4 tr legs (front lp of first leg then front lp of second leg- these are BEHIND the columns created in Round 8), sk next st, sc in next 3 sp, (2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc) in next sp**, sc in next 3 sp, repeat from * around ending last rep at **, sc in next sp, fasten off. Work invisible join in 2nd sc. [66 sc (11 sc/side), 6 dt2tog with leg base behind columns from previous round, 6 ch-2 sp to form corners of hexagon]

Round 10: With Color C- sl st into first sc of corner cluster, ch 1, sc in next sp, *(sc, ch 1, fp dt around corresponding column from Round 6, ch 1, sc) in corner ch-2 sp**, sc in next 11 sp to next corner, repeat from * around ending last rep at **, sc in next 9 sp, fasten off.  Work invisible join in 2nd sc. [78 sc (13 sc/side), 6 fp dt extending columns from Round 6, 12 ch-1 sp with one on either side of the fp dt at corners]

Round 11: With Color D- sl st into any sc prior to first corner ch-1 sp of any corner, ch 1, *(sc in first ch-1 sp, ch 2, sc in next ch-1 sp) for the corner**, sc in next 13 sp, repeat from * around ending last rep at **, sc in next 11 sp, fasten off. Work invisible join in 2nd sc. [90 sc (15 sc/side), 6 ch-2 sp]

Round 12: With Color D-  sl st into any sc prior to ch-2 corner sp, ch 1, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch 2 sp**, sc in next 15 sp, repeat from * around ending last rep at **, sc in next 14 sp, fasten off. Work invisible join in 2nd sc. [102 sc (17 sc/side), 6 ch-2 sp]

 

Weave in all ends. 

 

If desired to make hexagons larger and skip solid hexagons entirely, continue to the next section (Expanded Hexagons). If solid hexagons of the same size are desired, skip the next section and go to the Solid Hexagons pattern. 

Expanded Hexagon

After completing the Blooming Flower Hexagon, rounds can be added to make the hexagon larger (less hexagons to sew together!). Both loops are worked in these rounds to create a flatness in the extension. Work in the back loop only if desired but each round would need to be fastened off and the invisible join worked to keep the front loop lines around neat. 

Round 13: Either with Color D (last color worked with) OR with a different color if desired, sl st into any sp (picking up both loops), ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each sp around with (sc, ch 2, sc) in each corner ch-2 sp, sl st to first sc. [114 sc (19/side), 6 ch-2 sp]

Round 14: ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each sp around with (sc, ch 2, sc) in each corner ch-2 sp, sl st to first sc. [126 sc (21/side), 6 ch-2 sp]

Round 15: Repeat Round 14. [138 sc (23/side), 6 ch-2 sp]

Round 16: ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each sp around ch 2 OVER each corner (no stitches in ch-2 sp at corners), sl st to first sc. [126 sc (23/side), 6 ch-2 sp]

Variation: You can continue with the rounds if even larger hexagons are desired! 

Solid Hexagon

Round 1: With any color- Make magic ring, ch 2, 12 hdc in ring, sl st to first hdc.  [12 hdc]

Round 2: ch 1, sc in same sp, *2 sc in next sp**, sc in next sp, repeat from * around ending last rep at **, sl st to first sc. [18 sc]

Round 3: ch 1, 2 sc in same sp, *sc in next 2 sp**, 2 sc in next sp, repeat from * around ending last rep at **, sl st to first sc. [24 sc]

Round 4: ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in next 2 sp, *2 sc in next sp**, sc in next 3 sp, repeat around from * ending last rep at **, sl st to first sc. [30 sc]

Round 5: ch 1, sc in same sp, *ch 2**, sc in next 5 sp, repeat around from * ending last rep at **, sc in next 4 sp, sl st to first sc. [30 sc (5/side), 6 ch-2 sp]

Round 6: ch 1, sc in each sp around with (sc, ch 2, sc) in each corner ch-2 sp, sl st to first sc. [42 sc (7/side), 6 ch-2 sp]

Round 7: Repeat Round 6. [54 sc (9/side), 6 ch-2 sp]

Round 8: Repeat Round 6. [66 sc (11/side), 6 ch-2 sp]

Round 9: ch 1, sc in each sp around with ch 2 OVER each corner ch-2 sp (no increases or sc in ch-2 sp), sl st to first sc. [66 sc (11/side), 6 ch-2 sp]

Round 10: Repeat Round 6. [78 (13/side), 6 ch-2 sp]

Round 11: Repeat Round 6. [90 (15/side), 6 ch-2 sp]

Round 12: Repeat Round 6. [102 (17/side), 6 ch-2 sp]

 

Fasten off and weave in the ends. 

HALF Blooming Flower Hexagon

After completing the majority of the hexagons and the arrangement for your blanket is mostly decided, determine the number of half hexagons needed to fill in the gap on the top/bottom of the blanket (see Connecting Hexagons section).  

Three petals and two corner columns are worked here. The split skips out on the corner column along the halfway line due to the stitches. The goal is to have 3 sides that are the same number of stitches per side as the main hexagon pattern. 

Row 1: With Color A- Create a magic ring, ch 2 (counts as hdc), 5 hdc in ring, fasten off. [5 hdc]

Row 2: With Color B- sl st into first sp, ch 1, 2 sc in each sp around to last sp, fasten off. [10 sc]

Row 3: With Color C- sl st into first sp,  ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in next 2 sp, dc in front lp of 2nd sp in Round 1, sc in each of the next 4 sp, dc in front lp of 4th sp in Round 1, sc in next 3 sp, fasten off. [10 sc, 2 dc]

Row 4: With Color B- sl st into first sp, ch 1, tr in front lp of 1st sp in Round 1, sc in next 2 sp, tr in front loop of same hdc in Round 1 holding previous tr (create V shape from same sp), sc in next 2 sp, tr in front lp of 3rd sp in Round 1, sc in next 2 sp, tr in front loop of same hdc in Round 1 holding previous tr, sk next sp, sc in next 2 sp, tr in front lp of 5rd sp in Round 1, sc in next 2 sp, tr in front loop of same hdc in Round 1 holding previous tr, fasten off. [10 sc, 6 tr or 3 “V”’s] 

Row 5: With Color D- sl st into first sp, ch 1, sc in each sp around, fasten off. [16 sc]

Row 6: With Color C- sl st into first sp, ch 1, 2 sc in next same sp, sc in next 4 sp, fp tr around corresponding dc from Round 3, sc in next 6 sp, fp tr around corresponding dc from Round 3, sc in next 4 sp, 2 sc in last sp, fasten off. [18 sc, 2 fp tr (extending columns out from Round 3)]

Row 7: With Color E- sl st into first sp, ch 1,  sc in same sp, sc in next 2 sp, *dt2tog over two corresponding front lp spaces in Round 2 (base of dt2tog is between the “V” from Round 4), sc in next 7 sp**, repeat from * to ** one more time, dt2tog over two corresponding front lp spaces in Round 2, sc in next 3 sp, fasten off. [20 sc, 3 dt2tog with base between the “V” from Round 4]

Row 8: With Color B-  sl st into first sp, ch 1,  sc in same sp, sc in next 2 sp, *fp dt2tog around first then second legs of “V” from Round 4, sk Round 7 dt2tog sp, sc in next 7**, repeat from * to ** one more time, fp dt2tog around first then second legs of “V” from Round 4, sk Round 7 dt2tog sp,  sc in next 3 sp, fasten off. [20 sc, 3 fp dt2tog with each leg extending columns from Round 4 into center of petal]

Row 9: With Color A- sl st into first sp, ch 1, 2 sc in first sp,  sc in next 2 sp, *dt2tog over corresponding front lps from Round 4 tr legs (front lp of first leg then front lp of second leg- these are BEHIND the columns created in Round 8), sc in next 3 sp, (2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc) in next sp, sc in next 3 sp**, repeat from * to **, dt2tog over corresponding front lps from Round 4 tr legs, sc in next 2 sp, 2 sc in last sp, fasten off. [31 sc, 3 dt2tog with leg base behind columns from previous round, 2 ch-2 sp to form corners of hexagon]

Row 10: With Color C- sl st into first sp, ch 1, 2 sc in same sp, sc in next 9 sp, (2 sc, ch 1, fp dt around corresponding column from Round 6, ch 1, sc) in corner ch-2 sp, sc in next 11 sp to next corner,  (sc, ch 1, fp dt around corresponding column from Round 6, ch 1, 2 sc), sc in next 9 sp, 2 sc in last sp, fasten off. [39 sc (13 sc/side), 2 fp dt extending columns from Round 6, 4 ch-1 sp with one on either side of the fp dt at corners]

Row 11: With Color D- sl st into first sp, ch 1, 2 sc in same sp, sc in next 12 sp, (sc in first ch-1 sp, ch 2, sc in next ch-1 sp) for the corner, sc in next 13 sp, (sc in first ch-1 sp, ch 2, sc in next ch-1 sp) for the corner, sc in next 12 sp, 2 sc in last sp, fasten off. [45 sc (15 sc/side), 2 ch-2 sp]

Row 12: With Color D-  sl st into first sp, ch 1, 2 sc in same sp, sc in next 14 sp, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch 2 sp, sc in next 15 sp,  (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch 2 sp, sc in next 14 sp, 2 sc in last sp, DO NOT fasten off. [51 sc (17 sc/side), 2 ch-2 sp]

Finishing: With same yarn from row 12, ch 2. Then, working along bottom, place a sc in each row across with 3 extra at center (2 sc for each hdc row and one for center) to the beginning of row 12, ch 2, sl st to first st of row 12. [27 sc across base of half hexagon] Fasten off and weave in ends. 

 

HALF Expanded Hexagon

After Row 12: Continue with the same yarn from row 12 and skip finishing step (for now). 

Row 13: TURN, ch 1, (picking up both loops now) 2 sc in first sp, sc in each sp to corner sp, (sc, ch 2, sc) in corner sp, sc in each sp to next corner, (sc, ch 2, sc) in corner, sc to last sp, 2 sc in last sp  [57 sc (19 sc/side), 2 ch-2 sp]

Row 14: Repeat Row 13. [63 sc (21 sc/side), 2 ch-2 sp]

Row 15: Repeat Row 13. [69 sc (23 sc/side), 2 ch-2 sp]

Row 16: Turn, ch 1, sc in each sp to corner, ch 2, sk ch-2 sp, sc in each sp to next corner, ch 2, sk ch-2 sp, sc in each sp to end of row. [69 sc (23 sc/side), 2 ch-2 sp]

Work Finishing across bottom of half hexagon (35 sc total across bottom). Fasten off and weave in ends.

HALF Solid Hexagon

Row 1: With any color- Make magic ring, ch 2, 6 hdc in ring, turn. [6 hdc]

Row 2: ch 1, *sc in sp, 2 sc in next sp**, repeat from * to ** 2 more times, turn. [9 sc]

Row 3: ch 1, *2 sc in sp, sc in next 2 sp**, repeat from * to ** 2 more times, turn. [12 sc]

Row 4: ch 1,* sc in next 3 sp, 2 sc in next sp**, repeat around from * to **, turn. [15 sc]

Row 5: ch 1, sc in next 5 sp, ch 2, sc in next 5 sp, ch 2, sc in next 5 sp, turn. [15 sc (5/side), 2 ch-2 sp]

Row 6: ch 1, 2 sc in first sp, sc in each sp around with (sc, ch 2, sc) in each corner ch-2 sp to last sp, 2 sc in last sp, turn. [21 sc (7/side), 2 ch-2 sp]

Row 7: Repeat Row 6. [27 sc (9/side), 2 ch-2 sp]

Row 8: Repeat Row 6. [33 sc (11/side), 2 ch-2 sp]

Row 9: ch 1, 2 sc in first sp, sc in each sp around with ch 2 OVER each corner ch-2 sp (no increases or sc in ch-2 sp), turn. [33 sc (11/side), 2 ch-2 sp]

Row 10: Repeat Row 6. [39 (13/side), 2 ch-2 sp]

Row 11: Repeat Row 6. [45 (15/side), 2 ch-2 sp]

Row 12: Repeat Row 6. [51 (17/side), 2 ch-2 sp]

 

Fasten off and weave in the ends. 

Connecting Hexagons

When all FULL hexagons are completed, determine your arrangement and use the invisible seam technique to connect sides. The best way to look at the arrangements of the hexagon is to create columns one at a time. Columns are offsetted by a half of a hexagon each time so every other column top/bottom sides line up and the between column hexagons top/bottom lines up with the side points. 

The sides of the blanket will not have a large ripple. The top/bottom of the blanket will and this is where half hexagons can be added to fill the gaps- making the top/bottom of the blanket straight-edged. 

Border 

After connecting the hexagons, a border can be added. One option is to complete just one round of single crochet in each sp with (sc, ch 2, sc) in each corner and sc2tog at each valley to just bring everything together. Alternatively, complete more rounds depending on the amount of yarn left. 

Pattern Declaimer

This is a paid pattern originally designed for a Yarn Bits Shop subscription box. 

You have permission to sell any item made from this pattern. However, you are not allowed to resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern or downloads in any printed or digital form (in full), or to claim the pattern as your own original design. If you want to sell or share a picture of your work from this pattern, please clearly credit the design to me: Lauren Samar of Yarn Bits Shop (with link to the website when applicable). 

Occasionally a mistake or typo falls through, please report them via email (help@yarnbitsshop.com) and the pattern will be updated accordingly.

Posted on

BB January 2021 Weavetastic Blanket

Weavetastic Blanket

January 2021 BlanketBox

Designed by Lauren Samar for Yarn Bits Shop

Feel free to email for pattern help or questions: help@yarnbitsshop.com

Weaving is generally known as a completely separate technique from crocheting but crocheting can be used to make “woven” fabric by looks. This pattern features two different crochet weaving- Front/Back Post Weave and Strips Weave. The first is worked continuously utilizing the front and back post double crochet stitches and this creates more “solid” squares with the Mandala yarn. The latter is creating strips and literally weaving them. Due to using two different colors in those squares, there are more color changes shown. Between three different colors and two different squares laid out in alternating order, the overall blanket is a dynamic Weavetastic pattern.

In this box, there is: 

  • 9 or 12 skeins of Lion Brand Mandala Yarn in three colors (3 or 4 skeins of each!)- $72 or $96
  • Lion Brand Bamboo Crochet Hooks Size G – $4
  • Meori Pocket Shopper Bag – $15 
  • Exclusive Pattern and Support- $10

Included in your subscription:

  • VIP membership- $15/month
  • Monthly Masterclass- $50-100/month
  • Exclusive Facebook Group- $150+/month (but connections are priceless!)
    • More excitement coming soon! 
  • Yarn Bits Shop Hub access 

Stitches/Abbreviation Guide:

Yarn Over (yo); Space (sp); Stitch (st); Skip (sk); Loop (lp)

Chain (ch): with one lp on hook, yo and pull through the lp on hook

Slip Stitch (sl st): insert hook into target sp, yo and pull through sp AND lp on hook

Single Crochet (sc): insert hook into target sp, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through both lps on hook

Half Double Crochet (hdc): yo, insert hook into target sp, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through all three lps on hook

Double Crochet (dc): yo, insert hook into target sp, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook two times

Front Post Double Crochet (FP dc)

  1. Yo on hook.
  2. Insert hook into hole next to the post of the next stitch, on the “hook side.”
  3. Bring the hook back to the front of the fabric from behind the post, to the hole farther from the hook.
  4. Yo and draw through a lp, bringing it through both sides of the fabric. (3 lps remaining on hook)
  5. Yo and draw through 2 lps on hook. (2 lps remaining on hook)
  6. Yo and draw through remaining 2 lps on hook.

Back Post Double Crochet (BP dc)

  1. Yo on hook.
  2. Insert hook into hole next to the post of the next stitch, on the “hook side” from back to front
  3. Bring the hook back to the back of the fabric around the post, to the hole farther from the hook.
  4. Yo and draw through a loop, bringing it through both sides of the fabric. (3 lps remaining on hook)
  5. Yo and draw through 2 lps on hook. (2 lps remaining on hook)
  6. Yo and draw through remaining 2 lps on hook.

Throw Size Blanket Notes

To give an overview of how the yarn/square combinations were designed, the following will explain the amounts of each square for each color as well as the options! For the THROW size blanket box, there are 3 skeins of each color for a total of 9 skeins and the following are suggested amounts in terms of amounts of each square:

  • One set (one skein of each color) with the Front/Back Posts Weave Square gives 2 squares minus the border so 6 squares would be completed with a set. 
  • One set with the Strips Weave Technique Squares gives 3 HALF (pattern will explain this) of the squares so 9 HALF would be completed with a set. To get to even numbers, some of the second set would need to be used to finish. This would be 4 HALF of each color (12 total) and 6 squares would be completed. The following combinations are suggested and two of each would be made: 
    • Color 1 + Color 2
    • Color 1 + Color 3 
    • Color 2 + Color 3

  • After completing the 12 squares (two plus a bit of the third skein of each color will be used up at this point), the remaining yarn should be utilized for all the borders of the individual squares. 
  • From here, dependent on how much yarn you have left (everyone’s tension and yarn usage is a bit different!), a 3×4 square blanket can be completed OR an additional 4 squares of choice can be made to create a 4×4 blanket.. With the 4×4 blanket, there should be enough yarn for all the squares but not enough yarn for a wide overall border. With all of this said, a 3×4 blanket is the least risky with the yarn amounts and allows for a wider border and therefore is the recommended option. 

Two alternative options are: 

  • Make ALL squares with Back/Front Posts Weave  Technique- 12 (4 of each color) or 16 (5 of two colors and 6 of the other) squares can be made with the yarn included. 
  • Make ALL squares with Stripe Weave Technique- 8 HALF of each color can be made (24 HALF total) then 12 squares will be made with the yarn included. It’s unlikely to have enough for 16 squares. 

Large Throw Size Blanket Notes

To give an overview of how the yarn/square combinations were designed, the following will explain the amounts of each square for each color as well as the options! For the LARGE THROW size blanket box, there are 4 skeins of each color for a total of 12 skeins and the following are suggested amounts in terms of amounts of each square:

  • One set (one skein of each color) with the Front/Back Posts Weave Square gives 2 squares minus the border so 6 squares would be completed with a set. With another set, make 1 more square of each color. There will be 9 squares completed at this point. 
  • Two sets with the Strips Weave Technique Squares gives 6 HALF (pattern will explain this) of the squares per color so 18 HALF would be completed with two sets. This would be 6 HALF of each color (18 total) and 9 squares would be completed. Three of each of the following combinations will be completed: 
    • Color 1 + Color 2
    • Color 1 + Color 3 
    • Color 2 + Color 3
  • After completing the 18 squares (three skeins of each color will be mostly used up at this point), the remaining yarn should be utilized for all the borders of the individual squares. 
  • From here, 2 more squares will need to be made. One of each type of square in colors of your choice would be easiest. 
  • Ensure all individual squares borders are completed then with the 20 squares, attach them in a 4×5 square pattern. 

Two alternative options are: 

  • Make ALL squares with Back/Front Posts Weave Technique- 20 (7 of two colors and 6 of the other color) can be made with the yarn included. 
  • Make ALL squares with Stripe Weave Technique- 10-12 HALF of each color can be made (30-36 HALF total) then 15-18 squares will be made with the yarn included. It’s unlikely to have enough for 16 squares.

Front/Back Posts Weave Technique

Skill Level: Intermediate

Gauge: a “block” is ~1.5 x 1.5”

Dimensions: 12.5” x 12.5”

Ch 62 stitches

Row 1

  • hdc in 3rd chain from hook, hdc across, turn

Stitches Count: 60 hdc

Row 2

  • ch 2, hdc in each st across, turn 

Stitches Count: 60 hdc

Row 3

  • ch 2, hdc in first 2 sp, 
  • *FP dc around next 8 posts from row below, 
  • **BP dc around next 8 posts from row below, 
  • repeat from * across ending at ** (7 sets of 8 sts), 
  • hdc in each of last 2 sp, turn

Stitches Count: 2 hdc at beg and end of row, 7 sets of 8 FP/BP dc in alternating order (56 total dc)

Row 4

  • ch 2, hdc in first 2 sp, 
  • *BP dc around next 8 posts from row below, 
  • **FP dc around next 8 posts from row below, 
  • repeat from * across ending at ** (7 sets of 8 sts), 
  • hdc in each of last 2 sp, turn

Stitches Count: 2 hdc at beg and end of row, 7 sets of 8 FP/BP dc in alternating order (56 total dc)

 

Rows 5-8: repeat rows 3-4

Row 9: repeat row 4 (starts next set of blocks in opposite order)

Row 10: repeat row 5 

Rows 11-14: Repeat rows 9-10

 

Repeat rows 3-14 two more times, then repeat rows 3-8 one more time. 

 

Finishing

Row 1 (2nd to last row): 

  • ch 2, 
  • hdc in each sp across, turn 

Stitches Count: 60 hdc

 

Row 2 (last row): 

  • ch 2, 
  • hdc in each sp across, 
  • fasten off and weave in ends. 

Stitches Count: 60 hdc

 

The square should look like 7×7 “blocks” within the hdc border. 

 

Border for Square

Round 1

  • With a different yarn color, sl st into first sp of last row and ch 2. 
  • Top: hdc in each sp across (60 sts), ch 2 for the corner
  • Side: spread out 60 hdc in/between rows down the side. To help with this, put 8 hdc for each of the “blocks” sections and 2 hdc over the first two then for the last two rows. ch 2 for the corner
  • Bottom: hdc in each sp (bottom of beginning ch) across (60 sts), ch 2 for the corner
  • Side: Repeat first Side work. 
  • Sl st to first hdc, do not turn

Stitches Count: 240 hdc and 4 ch-2 sp (60 sts/side)

 

Round 2

  • Ch 2, 
  • hdc in same sp and in each sp around with (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in each corner sp, 
  • sl to to first hdc, 
  • fasten off. 

Stitches Count: 256 hdc and 4 ch-2 sp (64 sts/side)

Strips Weave Technique

Skill Level: Beginners crocheting and Intermediate construction

Gauge: a strip width is about 1 inch and the length should be about 9 inches relaxed. It should be able to stretch up to 10.5 inches. 

Dimensions: 12.5” x 12.5”

This square is worked very differently than the previous one. The foundation row is created then 10 strips are worked from the Foundation row. This is repeated the same way for both HALFs. For the first half, after all the strips are created, the top row of each strip is connected together. The second half is woven with the first half THEN the top row of each strip is connected together. After the two HALFs are combined, a border is completed to secure corners and get the sizing correct for the overall pattern. An important note about the width/length of the HALFs- it will be a LOT wider than 12.5 inches prior to being woven and finalized. It may be possible that the length of the strip needs to be adjusted due to tension- if your tension is tight and the strip does not have a lot of give length-wise, add 1-2 more rows and fasten off after rows 26-27 instead of 25. 

Strips Set-up and Work- SAME for both HALFs

Ch 63 stitches

Foundation Row

  • hdc in 3rd chain from hook, 
  • hdc across, turn

Stitches Count: 61 hdc

 

Strip 1, Row 1

  • Sl st in first sp, sl st into 2nd sp, 
  • ch 3, dc in same sp, 
  • dc in next 4 sp, turn

Stitches Count: 5 dc

Strip Row 2-25

  • ch 3, 
  • dc in next 5 sp, 
  • turn

Stitches Count: 5 dc

Fasten off after Row 25 of strip after checking stretch of strip. It should stretch to approximately 10.5 inches comfortably. NOT stretched should be about 9 inches long. If not due to your tension, add an extra row or two but you do want some stretch to allow the weaving to sit nicely.

 

Strip 2, Row 1

  • Return to Foundation row, sk sp after previous strip
  • Sl st into next sp, ch 3
  • dc in same sp, dc in next 4 sp,
  • Turn

Stitches Count: 5 dc

 

Repeat Strip Rows 2-25, fastening off after row 25. 

 

Repeat Strip 2 and Strip Rows 2-25 for each strip 8 more times (10 strips total). There should be a sp between each strip and at each end of the Foundation Row. 

 

Finishing First HALF

After all the strips are done for the first HALF, the top rows can be connected together to “secure” the strips into an overall rectangular (pre-weaving) shape. 

 

Set-up Chain

With the same yarn, create a slip knot and ch 1. Working from one end to the other with no twists in the strips, 

  • sl st in each sp of strip 1 (5 sl sts)
  • ch 1
  • sl st in each sp of strip 2 (5 sl sts)
  • ch 1
  • sl st in each sp of strip 3 (5 sl sts)
  • ch 1
  • And so forth with all the strips. 
  • Ch 1 and turn after the last strip. 

Stitches Count: 61 ch, all strips are attached. 

 

Last Row:

  • Ch 2, 
  • hdc in 3rd ch from hook, 
  • hdc in each sp of strip and AROUND ch (or in chain if desired, around is easier) between strips across
  • hdc in last ch
  • fasten off

 

Finishing Second HALF and Overall Square

The Set-up Chain and Last Row from the first HALF is the same for the second HALF but it is completed AFTER weaving strips together. 

Weaving

Lay completed first HALF down. 

Take the incomplete second HALF (top rows of strips are still loose) and lay it so the Foundation row is against the first secured strip of the first half. They are perpendicular to each other basically. 

With the strip on one end, weave it (over-under-over-under…) around the FIRST HALF strips. 

Take the strip next to the one just woven on the SECOND HALF and weave it starting with the opposite order- start with under if first woven strip started with over. For example:

  • Second HALF Strip 1: Over first HALF strip 1, Under first HALF strip 2, Over strip 3, Under strip 4….
  • Second HALF Strip 2: Under first HALF strip 1, Over first HALF strip 2, Under strip 3, Over strip 4… 
  • Second HALF Strip 3: Over first HALF strip 1, Under first HALF strip 2, Over strip 3, Under strip 4… 
  • And so forth

After weaving all strips from the second HALF into the first HALF, you will need to stretch the HALFs to accommodate all the strips- this will make the overall square more even on all sides. 

 

Keeping the pattern, repeat the Set-up Chain and Last Row with the second HALF top rows. This secures the strip weaving and the overall shape. 

 

Border for Square

Round 1

  • With a different yarn color, sl st into the SECOND sp of any side (top or bottom of either HALF)
  • ch 2, hdc in each sp across to last st,
  • *Pick up BOTH the last st and the first st of the next side and complete hdc, 
  • ch 2 for corner,
  • In same sp containing BOTH the last st of previous side and first st of current side, complete hdc
  •  hdc across to last sts
  • Repeat from around following the same pattern for all corners. 
  • After last corner is completed, sl st to first hdc, do not turn

Stitches Count: 244 hdc and 4 ch-2 sp (61 sts/side)

 

Round 2

  • Ch 2, 
  • hdc in same sp and in each sp around with (2 hdc, ch 2, hdc) in each corner sp, 
    • This is to add another st to make it the same number of stitches across ALL squares
  • sl to to first hdc, 
  • fasten off. 

Stitches Count: 256 hdc and 4 ch-2 sp (64 sts/side)

Finishing Overall Blanket 

The notes for either size of the pattern outlines the amount needed of each square with the three colors. Complete all squares with individual square borders and choose overall layout. Attach squares one column/row at a time with your preferred method of attaching squares. The sides all should contain the same number of stitches so it can be crocheted together with sl st or sc joins or they can be sewed together. 

 

After all the squares have been attached in the desired layout, the border can be completed depending on the amount of yarn left. The border is simple here to accommodate varying amounts of yarn and desired thicknesses. Work rounds in desired color order. 

 

Round 1 of Border: 

  • Sl st into any sp on the edge, ch 2 or 3
  • work hdc or dc in each sp around with (hdc/dc, ch 2, hdc/dc) in each corner sp
  • Sl st to beg st, do not turn

 

Round 2 of Border:

  • ch 2/3, hdc/dc in same sp, 
  • work hdc or dc in each sp around with (hdc/dc, ch 2, hdc/dc) in each corner sp
  • Sl st to beg st, do not turn

 

Repeat Round 2 until desired thickness is reached or yarn is used up. 

 

Weave in all ends. 

Pattern Declaimer

This is a paid pattern originally designed for a Yarn Bits Shop subscription box. 

You have permission to sell any item made from this pattern. However, you are not allowed to resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern or downloads in any printed or digital form (in full), or to claim the pattern as your own original design. If you want to sell or share a picture of your work from this pattern, please clearly credit the design to me: Lauren Samar of Yarn Bits Shop (with link to the website when applicable). 

Occasionally a mistake or typo falls through, please report them via email (help@yarnbitsshop.com) and the pattern will be updated accordingly.

Posted on

BB January 2020 Tunisian Crochet ZigZag and Diamonds

Tunisian Crochet ZigZag and Diamonds

January 2020 BlanketBox

Designed by Lauren Samar for Yarn Bits Shop

Feel free to email for pattern help or questions: help@yarnbitsshop.com

This blanket is a great way to learn and practice Tunisian crocheting. The first part of the pattern will cover what Tunisian crocheting is and how to do the different aspects needed. After the overview, the color charts are provided. There are 4 possible layouts for the squares with two color options for each (8 possible squares total). With these layouts, the overall order of the squares is completely up to you! The squares are sewed together and the border around the entire blanket is simple to keep the focus of this pattern on the technique itself.

Tunisian Crochet ZigZag and Diamonds Pattern

Supplies: 

6 skeins of Premier Anti Pilling Everyday Worsted Yarn in Mist, 3 skeins in Orchid, 3 skeins in Bright Violet; Size H 14 Inch Afghan Hook, Needle, Blocking mat if desired

Skill Level: Easy/Intermediate

Dimensions: 

Square dimensions: ~18” x 18”

About Tunisian Crochet: 

Tunisian crochet work is never turned and each row is worked in two parts: the forward and return pass. The forward pass picks up the stitches/loops onto the hook (hence why the hooks need to be longer) and the return pass works them off the hook. With this technique, the back of the fabric will look different than the front and curling is common (but can be tamed with blocking or a border).

The foundation row is started the same way for any tunisian stitch.

Foundation Row: 

  1. ch a number of stitches (beg ch)
  2. Forward pass: roll chain forward slightly so the back bumps can be seen. Insert hook in 2nd ch back bump, yarn over,  and pull through (2 loops on hook). Repeat for each ch across. 
  3. Return pass: Yarn over, pull  through first loop on hook (basically a ch 1, known as return ch), yarn over and pull through two loops on hook, repeat across until there is one stitch left on the hook. This stitch is now the 1st stitch of the next row.

Tunisian Simple Stitch (TSS)

After completing the foundation row, the rows are worked with the following forward and return passes for this stitch.

Forward pass: Skip first vertical bar, insert hook from right to left (if right handed, it will be left to right if you’re left handed) under the 2nd vertical bar (only one bar on hook when picked up), yarn over and pull up loop, keep loop on hook. Repeat across to last stitch. Work end stitch: insert hook under last bar and the bar that lies directly behind it, yarn over and pull loop.

Return pass: Yarn over, pull  through first loop on hook (return ch), yarn over and pull through two loops on hook, repeat across until there is one stitch left on the hook.

 

Color Changes With Tunisian Crochet

These blanket squares will not have any color changes on the edge- all the color changes are mid-row. 

Forward pass: work up to the stitch where the color change is required, insert hook in the next st, yarn over with the new color, work the next set of stitches in the new color. Repeat for all the color changes in the row. 

Return pass: work as normal until there is one loop of the contrast color left on the hook, yarn over the new color, and continue with the return pass pattern. 

Note: the colors are not carried down the row, you will be leaving the strands where they last were used to be used again in the following passes or rows. Only fasten off if that strand will not be picked up again in the next row. This means that there are many strands of yarn attached to the square, it is recommended to make smaller balls of yarn as needed so it is easier to transport. 

 

Reading the Color Chart

Each chart provided is for one square. Each square is a stitch with the first stitch already on your hook when starting the row. The stitches in the row are numbered from right to left since (if you are right handed), the stitches will be picked up in that order. If you are a left handed crocheter, you will read the chart from left to right. The rows are numbered bottom to top so working up with your square should match the progression easily. 

The first row of the chart is the foundation row. After that, all stitches are completed as explained in the TSS section. 

See next page for color specifications for each chart. 

 

Color Specifications for Charts

To make it easier to read and to ensure the square borders of the charts are clear, the charts do not display all the colors. Below are the color specifications for each chart. 

Thin and Thick ZigZag

The ZigZag squares are designed to be two colors only- Mist and one of the other colors.  

Version 1: 

Grey squares = Mist yarn (8 strands for Thin, 6 for Thick)

White squares = Bright Violet (7 strands for Thin, 5 for Thick)

Version 2:

Grey squares = Mist yarn (8 strands for Thin, 6 for Thick)

White squares = Orchid (7 strands for Thin, 5 for Thick)

 

Expanding and Centralized Diamonds

Version 1: 

Grey Squares = Mist (Up to 7 strands for Expanding, Up to 8 strands for Centralized)

Pink Squares = Bright Violet  (Up to 4 strands for Expanding, Up to 4 strands for Centralized)

White Squares = Orchid (Up to 3 strands for Expanding, Up to 3 strands for Centralized)

 

Version 2:

Grey Squares = Mist (Up to 7 strands for Expanding, Up to 8 strands for Centralized)

Pink Squares = Orchid (Up to 4 strands for Expanding, Up to 4 strands for Centralized)

White Squares = Bright Violet (Up to 3 strands for Expanding, Up to 3 strands for Centralized)

 

Attaching and Border

After squares are completed, use Mist and the mattress stitch to sew the squares together in the layout desired. Weave in all ends. 

After the squares are attached, if a border is desired (and there’s enough yarn), sc or hdc in each row/stitch around with (sc 2, ch 2, sc 2) or (hdc 2, ch 2, hdc 2) at the corners. Complete as many rows as desired. 

Pattern Declaimer

This is a paid pattern originally designed for a Yarn Bits Shop subscription box. 

You have permission to sell any item made from this pattern. However, you are not allowed to resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern or downloads in any printed or digital form (in full), or to claim the pattern as your own original design. If you want to sell or share a picture of your work from this pattern, please clearly credit the design to me: Lauren Samar of Yarn Bits Shop (with link to the website when applicable). 

Occasionally a mistake or typo falls through, please report them via email (help@yarnbitsshop.com) and the pattern will be updated accordingly.