Author: Lauren

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QP March 2021 Silk Ribbon Lace Basket or Scarf

Silk Ribbon Lace Basket or Scarf

March 2021 QuickProjects

Designed by Lauren Samar for Yarn Bits Shop

Feel free to email for pattern help or questions: help@yarnbitsshop.com

Silk Ribbon Lace Basket or Scarf

This month’s feature yarn is recycled sari fabric yarn. Because it’s recycled, the colors are very assorted and some beads may be attached still! Due to the loose nature of the yarn, any project that needs stiffer structure is taken out of consideration. With that in mind, there are two featured projects in this box dependent on your preference! The first is a lace basket- which can be hung on a doorknob or a wall and can hold larger items that you may need handy. The other project is a lace scarf. The patterns are simple (and very quick!) to allow for the assorted nature and texture of the yarn to shine through. If neither project speaks to you, the yarn can be used for an edge of a larger project or a more decorative wall hanging! Happy Crocheting! ~Lauren 

 

In this box, there is: 

  • Two skeins of Lion Brand Silk Chiffon Ribbon- $20
  • ChicaGoo Wood Size Q Crochet Hook- $8
  • Collectible and exclusively designed for QuickProjects Boxes monthly sticker- $4
  • Exclusive Pattern and Support- $10

Plus all Yarn Bits Shop Subscribers Perks!

Yarn Prep

The skeins are hanks of yarn and need to be untwisted and wound up into a ball or cake prior to working. 

  1. Untwist the yarn into a circle (pieces of string hold the circle intact).
  2. Find the ends and place the circle over the back of the chair or over knees.
  3. Snip strings and take one end.
  4. Start winding into ball from circle
  5. Repeat for other hank- either continuing into one larger ball or two smaller balls of yarn.
  6. You’re ready to crochet your project!



Lace Scarf

Skill Level: Easy | Hook: Size Q or 15.75 | Gauge: N/A

Dimensions: 6 inches wide x ~100-120 inches long

Ch 9 OR even number + 3 to adjust width of scarf. 

Row 1: 

  • tr in 5th st from hook (beg ch counts as tr plus ch sp)
  • *sk next sp, tr in next**
  • Repeat from * to ** across
  • turn 

Stitches count: 4 tr with sk sp between each

 

Row 2:

  • ch 5
  • sk first tr st
  • *ch 2, tr in next tr sp**
  • Repeat from * to ** across
  • turn 

Stitches count:  4 tr with ch-2 between each

 

Repeat Row 2 until desired length or all yarn is used up.

Lace Basket

Skill Level: Easy | Hook: Size Q or 15.75 | Gauge: N/A

Dimensions: 9 inch diameter x ~10-12 inches height, measured flat

Ch 3. 

Round 1: 

  • 10 dc in 3rd ch from hook
  • Sl st to beg dcSl st to beg dc

  • Stitches count: 20 dc

Stitches count: 10 dc

Round 2:

  • ch 2 (does not count as dc)
  • 2 dc in each sp around
  • Sl st to beg dc

Stitches count: 20 dc

Round 3:

  • ch 5 (counts as first dc and ch-2 sp)
  • *sk next sp, dc in next, ch 2**
  • Repeat from * to ** around
  • Sl st to 3rd sp of beg ch

Stitches count: 10 dc and 10 ch-2 sp

 

Round 4: 

  • ch 5 (counts as first dc and ch-2 sp)
  • *sk next ch-2 sp, dc in next sp, ch 2**
  • Repeat from * to ** around
  • Sl st to 3rd sp of beg ch

Stitches count: 10 dc and 10 ch-2 sp

Repeat Round 4 until most of yarn is used up- about 5-6 rows of lace total then complete finishing round:

 

Finishing Round: 

  • ch 1
  • 2 sc in each ch-2 sp around (skip all sts sp)
  • Sl st to first sc

Stitches count: 20 sc

 

Making Loop:

If you have enough yarn remaining, ch desired loop length and sl st to same sp. Fasten off. 

If you do not have enough yarn remaining, either fasten off and securely knot end in same sp to create loop OR fasten off and use different yarn and sl st in sp, ch desired length and sl st to same sp then fasten off. 

 

Weave in ends and hang! 

Alternative Ideas

Create a wider lace rectangle/square. Pin to a corkboard or frame to make an earrings holder. 

Use yarn for an edge of a project. 

Create crochet circles with this yarn and other yarn then attach together and hang to make a pretty wall hanging.

Pattern Declaimer

This is a paid pattern originally designed for a Yarn Bits Shop subscription box. 

You have permission to sell any item made from this pattern. However, you are not allowed to resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern or downloads in any printed or digital form (in full), or to claim the pattern as your own original design. If you want to sell or share a picture of your work from this pattern, please clearly credit the design to me: Lauren Samar of Yarn Bits Shop (with link to the website when applicable). 

Occasionally a mistake or typo falls through, please report them via email (help@yarnbitsshop.com) and the pattern will be updated accordingly.

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QP June 2020 – One Handle Floral Wrist Bag with Hard Bottom

One Handle Floral Wrist Bag with Hard Bottom

June 2020 QuickProjects

Designed by Lauren Samar for Yarn Bits Shop

Feel free to email for pattern help or questions: help@yarnbitsshop.com

Beginner’s Pattern

This project utilizes mainly single crochet and the single 

handle construction is what makes it a fun bag along with the floral pattern! A hard bottom also makes the bag more functional and doesn’t allow the shape to collapse as much. The height is determined by the maker since it can be anywhere from 6 inches tall to roughly 12 inches tall. The strap/handle is made last based on the height of the bag. This bag can be used for your smaller craft projects or an outing! Join the Facebook group or email for images of project and/or help!

One Handle Floral Wrist Bag with Hard Bottom Pattern

Supplies: One skein of Premier Bloom and one skein of Premier Home Cotton Small, Size F hook, 2 pieces of 9×6″ plastic canvas, needle, stitch markers

Skill: Beginners

Gauge: 13 rows of 11 sc = 2 in x 2 in

Dimensions: Base is about 9 x 6, height is determined by maker

Base Pieces  Notes: tight chain helps avoid twisting BUT if this is not the case for you, adjust tightness of chains. Also, for this pattern, the number of stitches here is not as significant as the size. If 48 stitches are too large (over 9 inches) or too tight, start over and adjust the number of stitches accordingly. It is perfectly fine if you’re off by several stitches since it is really dependent on the individual crocheter.

Base

Note: It is recommended to do a few rows and measure the width to ensure the sizing is correct. The goal is rectangles that are right around 9 inches wide and 6 inches tall. However do not stress if it’s slightly smaller, the plastic canvas can be trimmed down.

Make 2 of the same size:

With a tighter ch or a size hook down if have, ch 49.

Row 1:  sc in 2nd sp from hook, sc in each sp across, turn (48)

Row 2-37: ch 1, sc in each sp across. Ensure the height is roughly 6 inches. Adjust number of rows as needed if off in terms of sizing.

Row 38: ch 1, sc in each sp across, ch 2, sc in each sp down the side (37 sc), ch 2, sc in each sp across bottom of ch, ch 2, sc in each sp up side (37 sc), ch 2, sl st to first sc. Fasten off and weave in end.

Finishing base (after both pieces are made)

Lay the bottom base and place the top base on top. With stitch markers, attach corners together to keep them lined up.

With the cotton yarn, sl st into the space (in both pieces) immediately after a corner. Both pieces will be crocheted together- sp here means both of the lined up sp (one on each base piece).

Finishing Base continued

  • Ch 1 and sc in same sp , sc in each sp and (sc, ch 2, sc) in each corner around three sides.
  • Before proceeding with last side, cut plastic canvas down to two 9×6″ pieces.
  • Take plastic canvas pieces and slide between base pieces, ensure it fit inside the edges. If not, trim down edges as needed.
  • With plastic canvas in place, sc in each sp across to last corner, (sc, ch 2, sc) in corner, sl st to first sc.

Round 2: Continuing with the cotton yarn, ch 1 and sc in same sp. sc in each sp around, skipping corner ch-2 sp. sl st to first sc. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Sides

There are two options with the sides here: per side or continuously. Continuous with the Bloom yarn features thin stripes and does NOT showcase the floral. In addition, the corners are curved. Per side is crocheting each side surface separately then connecting the edges with a seam. This does feature the yarn floral pattern in thicker stripes and the corners are sharper with the seams.

Height is also determined by the maker. There should be enough yarn for around 80 rounds total of Bloom. Continue until the desired height of the bag is reached.

Continuous Side Option

With the bloom yarn, sl st into any sp along the edge.

Rounds 1-50 (to 80): ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each sp around, sl st to first sc. If you have more yarn, more rounds with Bloom can be completed until you run out of yarn. If you want stitching to be visible with handles, set enough yarn aside for that. After the last round- Fasten off Bloom and weave in ends.

Per Side Option

Find corners and mark with stitch markers. Adjust stitch markers so that these stitches are even on the opposite sides (number of long side stitches should be the same, short sides should be the same). The stitch markers should be between spaces.

For each side, crochet the same number of rows:

Row 1: Sl st in sp to one side of the stitch marker, ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each sp across side to next stitch marker. Turn

Row 2-50 (to 80): ch 1, sc in each sp across, turn. After the last row- Fasten off and weave in ends.

Per Side Option continued:

After all sides are completed and for each corner edges:

With the cotton yarn, sl st into lined up row sp at bottom, ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each lined up row sp to the top. Fasten off.

Optional edging for both sides option:

With cotton yarn, sl st into any sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each sp around. Repeat for 1-2 more rounds. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Support Straps

Tunisian Crochet will give a tight fabric with little give. The regular hook is perfectly sufficient here!

Foundation:  With cotton yarn, ch 7-11 (dependent how wide you would like it)

Foundation forward pass: roll chain forward slightly so the back bumps can be seen. Insert hook in 2nd ch back bump, yarn over,  and pull through (2 loops on hook). Repeat for each ch across.

Foundation Return pass: Yarn over, pull  through the first loop on hook (basically a ch 1, known as return ch), yarn over and pull through two loops on hook, repeat across until there is one stitch left on the hook.

Repeat the following until the handle measures the height of your sides and across the base from center of your long sides of base:

Forward pass: Skip first vertical bar, insert hook from right to left (if right handed, it will be left to right if you’re left handed) under the 2nd vertical bar (only one bar on hook when picked up), yarn over and pull up loop, keep loop on hook. Repeat across to the last stitch. Work end stitch: insert hook under last bar and the bar that lies directly behind it, yarn over and pull loop.

Return pass:  Same as foundation return pass.

Handle Buckle and Loop

When strap length is reached (do not fasten off), the ends should lie flush with the edges  on either side of the bag at the center of the long edges (it should lie against the bag from edge, to base, across base, and back to edge on other side of bag).

Finish strap edge: continuing with strap- ch 1, sc in each sp across.

Create buckle gap: ch same number of beg stitches plus 2. sl st to the opposite end of where ch started to create a gap between edge of strap and chain. turn.

Create buckle: Ch 2, hdc in gap (around ch) for two times the number of ch from previous step (for example: if used 8 chains to create gap, complete 16 hdc in gap). ch 2 , sl to to edge sp. Fasten off and weave in end.

Handle Buckle and Loop continued:

Handle Loop: On the other side of the strap (where strap was worked up from), sl st into first sp on one side of strap (similar to front loop or back loop only. ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each sp across.

Row 2: ch 1, sc2tog over next 2 sp, sc in each sp to last 2 sp, sc2tog over last 2 sp.

Row 3: ch 1, sc in each sp across.

Repeat row 3 until the length of loop is reached- long enough to allow your hand to pass through to rest on your wrist plus a little more. It also can be longer if desired!

Last row:  ch 1, 2 sc in first sp, 1 sc in each sp to last sp, 2 sc in last sp. Fasten off with a long tail. Sew the last row opposite loops of the starting point securely. Weave in ends. Loop should be able to pass through the buckle easily.

To finish: Find the center of the long sides and use stitch markers to attach the edge of the strap  to the edge of the sides (buckle and loop should be above sides) on either side of the bag. Using either yarn, sew strap into bag sides and, if not too difficult, across base with a running stitch. Remove stitch markers and weave in ends. Lastly, if desired, a small hook and loop (or variation) can be added to pull short sides together inside the bag edges to create a folded look.

Pattern Declaimer

This is a paid pattern originally designed for a Yarn Bits Shop subscription box. 

You have permission to sell any item made from this pattern. However, you are not allowed to resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern or downloads in any printed or digital form (in full), or to claim the pattern as your own original design. If you want to sell or share a picture of your work from this pattern, please clearly credit the design to me: Lauren Samar of Yarn Bits Shop (with link to the website when applicable). 

Occasionally a mistake or typo falls through, please report them via email (help@yarnbitsshop.com) and the pattern will be updated accordingly.

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QP June 2020 – Floral Bottle Carrier with Hard Bottom (Intermediate)

Floral Bottle Carrier with Hard Bottom

June 2020 QuickProjects

Designed by Lauren Samar for Yarn Bits Shop

Feel free to email for pattern help or questions: help@yarnbitsshop.com

Intermediate Pattern

This project features one main stitch and it’s a basic one. But what makes it interesting and challenging is the 

construction of it. A bottle carrier, featuring a summery print and the normal 6 spaces, can be used to go to an outing with drinks, or to the farmer’s market for jars or small veggies, or as decoration on your counter for the various jars your kitchen contains. Read the pattern notes prior to making any parts to understand the order of construction since that is key to being successful.

Floral Bottle Carrier with Hard Bottom Pattern

Supplies: One skein of Premier Bloom and one skein of Premier Home Cotton Small, Size F hook, 2 pieces of 9×6″ plastic canvas, needle, stitch markers

Skill: Stitches are Easy but construction is Intermediate-Advanced

Gauge: 13 rows of 11 sc = 2 in x 2 in

Dimensions: about 9 x 6 x 4.5 high inches (without handles included in height)

Pattern Notes: The  bottle carrier mainly features single crochet so the stitching itself is not difficult. However, the order of construction is extremely important to be successful and it may be a bit confusing. But follow the order on the pages 2-9 and the breakdown will make it easier.

Base Pieces (Top and Bottom)

Note: tight chain helps avoid twisting BUT if this is not the case for you, adjust tightness of chains. Also, for this pattern, the number of stitches here is not as significant as the size. If 48 stitches is too large (over 9 inches) or too tight, start over and adjust the number of stitches accordingly. It is perfectly fine if you’re off by several stitches since it is really dependent on the individual crocheter.

Note 2: It is recommended to do a few rows and measure the width to ensure the sizing is correct. The goal is rectangles that are right around 9 inches wide and 6 inches tall. However do not stress if it’s slightly smaller, the plastic canvas can be trimmed down.

Make 2 of the same size:

With a tighter ch or a size hook down if have, ch 49.

Row 1:  sc in 2nd sp from hook, sc in each sp across, turn (48)

Row 2-37: ch 1, sc in each sp across. Ensure the height is roughly 6 inches. Adjust number of rows as needed if off in terms of sizing.

Row 38: ch 1, sc in each sp across, ch 2, sc in each sp down the side (37 sc), ch 2, sc in each sp across bottom of ch, ch 2, sc in each sp up side (37 sc), ch 2, sl st to first sc. Fasten off and weave in end.

Dividers

Set one base piece aside (bottom) and continue working with the top piece.

Outline (to help visualize this, look up surface single crochet):

~Fold the piece in half lengthwise, place stitch markers at the edges to mark the middle points on the short sides. Starting on one end, create a slip knot and place sc evenly across the surface, dividing the piece into two

along the middle. It should be roughly the same number of stitches as the width of the rectangle (~50 with extra stitches from round 38). 

~Divide the long side into three sections (~3 inches each) and mark the edges for both shorter dividers. Surface single crochet from one end to the other twice. There should be the same number of stitches on either side of the middle lengthwise divider.

Dividers continued

Sections (see image to understand direction of crocheting)

For each section (1-3 red paths in image), sl st into first sp at edge, ch 1 and sc in same sp, sc in each sp following path (red arrows for one section). When reach other edge, turn. Ch 1 and sc in each sp back. Repeat until there’s 24 rows (upwards/perpendicular from base). Repeat for all 3 sections (all outline is covered between 3 sections).

Sew Intersection Edges

When all 3 sections are completed, line edges up (where the intersection of the outlines are). With a piece of yarn and a needle, sew the edges together (at the two intersections) and weave in ends. The dividers should be completed!

Handles

Tunisian Crochet will give a tight fabric with little give. The regular hook is perfectly sufficient here!

Foundation:  With cotton yarn, ch 4-6 (dependent how wide you would like it)

Foundation forward pass: roll chain forward slightly so the back bumps can be seen. Insert hook in 2nd ch back bump, yarn over,  and pull through (2 loops on

Handles Continued

hook). Repeat for each ch across.

Foundation Return pass: Yarn over, pull  through first loop on hook (basically a ch 1, known as return ch), yarn over and pull through two loops on hook, repeat across until there is one stitch left on the hook. This stitch is now the 1st stitch of the next row.

Repeat following until the handle measures 56-58″ long:

Forward pass: Skip first vertical bar, insert hook from right to left (if right handed, it will be left to right if you’re left handed) under the 2nd vertical bar (only one bar on hook when picked up), yarn over and pull up loop, keep loop on hook. Repeat across to last stitch. Work end stitch: insert hook under last bar and the bar that lies directly behind it, yarn over and pull loop.

Return pass: Yarn over, pull  through first loop on hook (return ch), yarn over and pull through two loops on hook, repeat across until there is one stitch left on the hook.

Fasten off once length is reached. Sew two ends together without twisting and weave in ends. With stitch markers, mark the join and half way around the loop.

Handles to Base

  • With stitch markers along the long sides of the bottom base piece (not the one with the dividers crocheted on it), mark 10-12 stitches in from the corners (2 stitch marker per long edge). This is where one edge of the handle will be attached and this ensures that the handles are placed evenly.
  • Without twisting the handles, place the join and halfway points in the middle of the base (lengthwise) with the same side of the handle facing up (wrong side facing up so the right side will be showcase along the sides of the carrier in the last step of the pattern).
  • Position the handles so that it lies against the edge stitch markers and use the same stitch markers to secure the position of the handle.
  • Ensure the join/halfway points are still in the middle and that the handles look even on either side.
  • From one long side edge to the other and using the running stitch, sew the handle onto the base using either the cotton yarn if visible stitches are desired or the same yarn to make the stitches invisible.

Cut plastic canvas into two even pieces that measure roughly 9×6″. They do not need to be exactly the same and can be trimmed down as needed shortly.

Finishing base

Lay the bottom base with handles facing upwards. Place the top base with dividers on top. With stitch markers, attach corners together to keep them lined up.

With the cotton yarn , sl st into the space (in both pieces) immediately after the handle on the side closer to a corner. Both pieces will be crocheted together besides where the handles are.

  • ch 1 and sc in same sp. Sc in both pieces to corner, (sc, ch 2, sc) in corner, sc in each sp along short side, (sc, ch 2, sc) in corner, sc to handle edge,
  • sc in ONLY top piece sps to other side of handle edge, sc in both pieces sp to next handle edge, sc in ONLY top piece sp to other side of handle edge
  • sc in both pieces to corner (sc, ch 2, sc) in corner, sc in each sp along short side, (sc, ch 2, sc) in corner,
  • Take plastic canvas and slide between top pieces, ensure it fit inside the edges. If not, trim down edges as needed. With plastic canvas in place, sc to handle edge, sc in ONLY top piece sps to other side of handle edge,
  • sc in both pieces sp to next handle edge, sc in ONLY top piece sp to other side of handle edge, sl st to first st. Do not fasten off.

Sides

Continuing with the cotton yarn, ch 1 and sc in same sp. sc in each sp around, skipping corner ch-2 sp. sl st to first sc and fasten off. Weave in end.

There are two options with the sides here: per side or continuously. Continuous with the Bloom yarn features thin stripes and does NOT showcase the floral. In addition, the corners are curved. Per side is crocheting each side surface separately then connecting the edges with a seam. This does feature the yarn floral pattern in thicker stripes and the corners are sharper with the seams.

Continuous Side Option

With the bloom yarn, sl st into any sp along the edge.

Rounds 1-25: ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each sp around, sl st to first sc. If you have more yarn, more rounds with Bloom can be completed until you run out of yarn. If you want stitching to be visible with handles, set enough yarn aside for that.

Fasten off Bloom and weave in ends.

Optional edging: With cotton yarn, sl st into any sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each sp around. Repeat for 1-2 more rounds. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Per Side Option

Find corners and mark with stitch markers. Adjust stitch markers so that these stitches are even on the opposite sides (number of long side stitches should be the same, short sides should be the same). The stitch markers should be between spaces.

For each side:

Row 1: Sl st in sp to one side of the stitch marker, ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each sp across side to next stitch marker. Turn

Row 2-25: ch 1, sc in each sp across, turn.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

After all sides are completed and for each corner edges:

With the cotton yarn, sl st into lined up row sp at bottom, ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each lined up row sp to the top. Fasten off.

Optional edging: Same as Continuous side option optional edging. Add ch 1 for corners if desired.

Finishing whole pattern:

Line up handles along side straight up from base and sew onto side with running stitch using either yarn. Line dividers edges straight up from the base and sew into side with Bloom yarn and the whip stitch. Weave in all ends and ENJOY!

Pattern Declaimer

This is a paid pattern originally designed for a Yarn Bits Shop subscription box. 

You have permission to sell any item made from this pattern. However, you are not allowed to resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern or downloads in any printed or digital form (in full), or to claim the pattern as your own original design. If you want to sell or share a picture of your work from this pattern, please clearly credit the design to me: Lauren Samar of Yarn Bits Shop (with link to the website when applicable). 

Occasionally a mistake or typo falls through, please report them via email (help@yarnbitsshop.com) and the pattern will be updated accordingly.

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QP July 2020 – Beaded Crochet Jewelry Set

Beaded Crochet Jewelry Set

July 2020 QuickProjects

Clockwise from upper left: Beaded Checkered Bracelet, Beaded Striped Bracelet, Beaded Dispersed Stands, Beaded Centered Strands. At center, Flower with beaded center.

Designed by Lauren Samar for Yarn Bits Shop

Feel free to email for pattern help or questions: help@yarnbitsshop.com

This is the first time Yarn Bits Shop featured either beaded crochet or jewelry!  Beaded crochet is most commonly seen with the beaded crochet rope and it is not as commonly used in crochet. There are two main patterns provided with multiple variations for each. Regardless- these patterns are perfect for gifts and to wear yourself! More beads will be needed to make multiple items from this one skein of yarn since the yardage need is not high for jewelry. Look for more pattern ideas for this yarn from Yarn Bits Shop in mid-July or so too!

Beaded Crochet Jewelry Set Pattern

Supplies: One skein of Universal Yarn Universe, 40g (or more!) seed beads, size C crochet hook, darning needle for weaving in ends.

Skill: Level noted with each pattern

Gauge: N/A

Dimensions: Dependent on sizing preferences

Abbreviations

ch – chain

bch – bead ch

sl st – slip stitch

sp – space

sc – single crochet

bsc – bead single crochet

hdc – half double crochet

dc – double crochet

tr – triple crochet

 

Bead Stitches

When crocheting with beads, first string all beads needed before crocheting any part of the project. More beads than needed is safer if you don’t want to count the needed beads beforehand. With this yarn, wetting the end is usually sufficient for beading. To make it even easier, use clear nail polish (or not clear nail polish if you don’t have any clear!) and paint the tip. Let it dry and you’ll have a hardened end to make it easier to bead the string!

After beading, begin crocheting pattern as directed and push beads down if not being used. When there is a bead stitch, slide bead up as needed. Follow directions below for stitches used in this pattern booklet:

bead chain (bch): slide bead to hook, yo and pull through loop

bead single crochet (bsc): place hook through sp, yo and pull through sp, slide bead to hook, yo and pull through both loops (secures bead in place to the BACK of the work)

To give more options for patterns, the base pattern is presented first WITHOUT any beaded stitches. Then the following patterns (next page after base pattern) outlines the pattern with beads. See pages 3-4 for the bracelet patterns and page 5-6 for the necklace patterns. See page 7-8 for the crochet flowers with and without beaded centers that can be added to the base pattern for the bracelet and necklace. Images of several variations are on page 8.

For all patterns, instead of suggested clasp options, a lobster clasp can be added to one end and the clasp can pick up the opposite end easily. Lobster clasps can be found in jewelry sections of craft stores.

Bracelet Base Pattern {Beginners Level}

This one is WITHOUT BEADS- see next page for beaded variations.

Beginning Triangle:

Row 1: leaving a long tail, slip knot, ch 2, 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook, turn (3 sc)

Row 2: ch 1, sc in each sp across, turn (3 sc)

Row 3: ch 1, 2 sc in first sp, sc in next sp, 2 sc in last sp, turn (5 sc)

Row 4: ch 1, sc in each sp across, turn (5 sc)

Row 5: ch 1, 2 sc in first sp, sc in next 3 sp, 2 sc in last sp, turn (7 sc)

Row 6: ch 1, sc in each sp across, turn (7 sc)

Row 7: ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 5 sp, 2 sc in last sp, turn (9 sc) 

Note: if you would like the bracelet to be narrower, skip row 7 to keep it at 7 sc wide.

Center Strip

Row 1-31: ch 1, sc in each sp across, turn (9 sc)

Add/remove rows as needed to cover wrist circumference minus 5 or 7 rows (gap is there for the next 5 or 7 rows). 5 rows for if it’s 7 sc width or 7 rows for 9 sc width.

Ending Triangle:

Row 1: ch 1, sc2tog, sc in next 5, sc2tog, turn (7 sc)

Row 2: ch 1, sc in each sp across, turn (7 sc)

Row 3: ch 1, sc2tog, sc in next 3, sc2tog, turn (5 sc)

Row 4: ch 1, sc in each sp across, turn (5 sc)

 Row 5: ch 1, sc2tog, sc in next sp, sc2tog, turn (3 sc) 

Row 6: ch 1, sc in each across, turn (3 sc)

 Row 7: ch 1, sc3tog, fasten off with long tail (1 sc)

Beaded Crochet Bracelet:

Beginning/Ending Triangle are the same but what changes is the center strip. Every other row has beads and two beading patterns are offered below.

Beaded Stripes Bracelet {Beginners-Intermediate Level}

Complete Beginning Triangle then:

Row 1: ch 1, sc in each sp across, turn (9 sc)

Row 2: ch 1, bsc in each sp across, turn (9 bsc)

Repeat Rows 1-2 until desired length is reached 

Row 31: ch 1, sc in each sp across, turn (9 sc)

Then: complete Ending Triangle

Beaded Checkered Bracelet {Beginners-Intermediate Level}

Complete Beginning Triangle then:

Row 1: ch 1, sc in each sp across, turn (9 sc)

Row 2: ch 1, bsc in first sp, *sc in next, bsc in next**, repeat from * to ** across (ending with bsc), turn (5 bsc and 4 sc)

Row 3: repeat row 1

Row 4: ch 1, sc in first sp, bsc in next, sc in next, repeat from * to ** across (ending with sc), turn (5 sc and 4 bsc)

Repeat 1-4 until desired length is reached.

If you want to end the same way started, repeat row 1-2 to finish the center strip.

Then: complete Ending Triangle

Finish with adjustable closure with square knots with additional length of yarn by completing a series of macrame square knots with strands from points of triangle at center. Add a bead to each strand and knot off end. Each end can be used to pull through square knots to open/close the bracelet.

Necklace Base Pattern {Beginners Level}

This one is WITHOUT BEADS- see next page for beaded variations.

Make two of the following:

Complete Beginning Triangle from Page 3 then:

Row 8: ch 1, sc in each sp across, turn (9 sc)

Row 9: ch 1, sc in each sp across, fasten off (9 sc)

This will result in 9 strands in the necklace. If a narrower necklace is desired, only complete rows 1-6 of the Beginning Triangle then one extra row of sc in each sp.

After both Beginning Triangles are complete, follow below for creating strands and check often that they are not twisted or off in length.

Strand 1: sl st in first sp of ONE of the Beginning Triangles, ch until desired length is reached- This is the shortest strand of all so test out the length that is comfortable! 1-3 inches below neck in the front is usually good and the clasp is adjustable so that will give some wiggle room. If your chains are consistent, feel free to keep track of the number of stitches. But if your chains are not consistent, use the overall length. In the 2nd Beginner Triangle, sl st into first sp. When tied together, the strands will go from top to bottom of the triangle at the back of the neck.

Strand 2: sl st into next sp on 2nd Triangle, ch until about 1-2 inches longer than Strand 1. If more separation is desired, make it longer but keep it consistent between all strands. In the 1st Beginner Triangle, sl st into sp next to first strand starting point.

Strands 3-9: Repeat strand 2 until all sp are filled on both triangles (checking with each strand that it looks as desired). Fasten off.

Beaded Crochet Necklace:

The Beginning Triangles are the same but what changes strands containing beads! The first one is beads spread out throughout all the strands. The second one is the beads concentrated at the center of the front of the necklace.

Dispersed Beaded Strands {Beginners-Intermediate Level}

After making the two Beginning Triangles:

Strand 1: sl st in first sp of 1st Triangle, ch 4, *bch, ch 4*, repeat from * to ** until desired length is reached, sl st into 1st sp of 2nd triangle

Strand 2: sl st in next sp on triangle, ch 4, bch, *ch 4, bch*, repeat from * to ** until desired length (1-2 inches longer than strand 1) is reached, ch 2, sl st into next sp on 1st Triangle.

Repeat Strands 1-2 until all strands are completed.

Beaded Centered Strands {Beginners-Intermediate Level}

After making the two Beginning Triangles:

Strand 1: sl st in first sp of 1st Triangle, ch until center of strand (back-to-center-length for future reference) is reached, bch 5 times, ch equal length (back-to-center-length) as first half before beaded center, sl st into 1st sp of 2nd triangle.

Strand 2: sl st in next sp on triangle, ch same length as back-to-center-length from strand 1, bch 9 times, ch equal length as first half before beaded center, sl st into 2nd sp of 1st triangle. Check that strands are separated and not twisted when holding up/on the neck.

Strand 3: Repeat strand 2, except (at center) complete 13 bch.

Strand 4: Repeat strand 2, except (at center) complete 17 bch. 

Strand 5: Repeat strand 2, except (at center) complete 21 bch.

Strand 6: Repeat strand 2, except (at center) complete 25 bch.

Strand 7: Repeat strand 2, except (at center) complete 29 bch. Fasten off if only doing 7 strands. Otherwise, continue with the last 2 strands.

Strand 8: Repeat strand 2, except (at center) complete 33 bch.

Strand 9: Repeat strand 2, except (at center) complete 37 bch. Fasten off.

To finish necklace: chs on either end to tie by: sl st to point of triangle and ch length desired and fasten off. Complete for the other end. Use ch to tie ends together. Could do bch at triangle point to add some beads to tie!

Flower {Intermediate}

Round 1: Make magic ring. ch 2 and sc 10 in ring, sl st to beg sc.

Round 2: ch 1, *(sc, dc) in same sp, ch 1, (dc, sc) in next sp**, repeat from * to ** around to make the beginning of 5 petals, sl st to beg sc.

Round 3: ch 1, *sc in first sp of petal, (hdc, dc) in next sp, (dc, tr, dc) inch-sp, (dc, hdc) in next sp, sc in last sp of petal**, repeat from * to ** around, sl st to beg sc. {Fasten off with long tail here for smaller flower, continue for 1 more round for larger flower}

Round 4: ch 1, *sc in next 2 sp, hdc in next sp, (hdc, dc) in next sp, (dc, tr, dc) in next (center) sp, (dc, hdc) in next sp, hdc in next sp, sc in next 2 sp**, repeat from * to ** around, sl st to beg sc. Fasten off.

Finishing flowers (regardless of size)

Note: If you want to keep flatter, skip the next steps.

Shaping petals: *Sl st into first sp of petal, sl st to last sp of same petal (pinching them together)**, repeat from * to ** for all 5 petals. Fasten off if the beaded center is not desired.

Beaded center: bch, sl st into sp below, *bch, sl st into next sp**, repeat around. Fasten off and pull the end through center to bottom. Use to sew onto bracelet/necklace as desired. Attaching to bracelet is a bit easier and with the necklace, strands can be crochet together at one point THEN flower attached.

Pattern Declaimer

This is a paid pattern originally designed for a Yarn Bits Shop subscription box. 

You have permission to sell any item made from this pattern. However, you are not allowed to resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern or downloads in any printed or digital form (in full), or to claim the pattern as your own original design. If you want to sell or share a picture of your work from this pattern, please clearly credit the design to me: Lauren Samar of Yarn Bits Shop (with link to the website when applicable). 

Occasionally a mistake or typo falls through, please report them via email (help@yarnbitsshop.com) and the pattern will be updated accordingly.

Posted on by

QP January 2021 Ribbon XL Heart Pillow or Wall Hanging

Ribbon XL Heart Pillow or Wall Hanging

January 2021 QuickProjects

Designed by Lauren Samar for Yarn Bits Shop

Feel free to email for pattern help or questions: help@yarnbitsshop.com

Ribbon XL Heart Pillow or Wall Hanging

With Valentine’s Day approaching, a heart shaped project seemed appropriate! There are two heart project options- a pillow for your loveseat or a wall hanging for a wall, door, or window. There’s some notes for each project with ideas for usage and, to be honest, either option isn’t being put away in my house because it’s so cute! Alternatively, if a heart project isn’t your thing, there’s a few ideas for the yarn along with a past QuickProjects pattern that the yarn would work well with in the last section. Speaking of the yarn, it is a Hoooked Yarn, one of my favorite brands, called RibbonXL and it is made out of recycled cotton. It’s very soft and very fun to work with. Happy Crocheting! ~Lauren  

In this box, there is: 

  • One skein of Hoooked Yarns RibbonXL- $10
  • 9mm Crochet Hook – $4
  • Collectible and exclusively designed for QuickProjects Boxes monthly sticker- $4
  • Exclusive Pattern and Support- $10

 

Included in your subscription:

  • VIP membership- $15/month
  • Monthly Masterclass- $50-100/month
  • Exclusive Facebook Group- $150+/month (but connections are priceless!)
  • Yarn Bits Shop Hub access 

 

Yarn Tips

This yarn is different than most yarns and to make the experience easier and enjoyable, a couple things should be noted. This yarn is a FLAT tubed yarn and WILL twist when pulling out from center or from outside of the skein. The best thing you can do is to untwist the yarn frequently so that the look of the yarn when crocheted features the “flatness” or width of the yarn. 

  1. Pull out a length of yarn. 
  2. From the yarn end closest to the skein, push the twists towards your project. 
  3. When you have a lot of twists or you can’t push the twists any further easily, place a stitch marker or just leave your hook in the loop and let your project hang. It will slowly untwist with the weight. You can speed it up by spinning the project in the correct direction. 

 

You will need to do this throughout the entire project but it’s worth it!

Ribbon XL Heart Pillow

Skill Level: Beginners

Hook: 9mm (Letter numbers vary between brands here- it’s USUALLY Size M)

Gauge: 4 dc x 3 rows = ~2×2 inches

Dimensions: 11.5 inches from bottom tip to top of one curve

Ch 3. 

Row 1: 

  • 3 dc in 3rd ch from hook
  • turn 

Stitches count: 3 dc

Row 2: 

  • ch 2
  • 2 dc in first sp
  • dc in next
  • 2 dc in last sp
  • turn 

Stitches count: 5 dc

Row 3: 

  • ch 2
  • 2 dc in first sp
  • dc in each sp to last sp
  • 2 dc in last sp
  • turn 

Stitches count: 7 dc

 

Rows 4-8: Repeat row 3, each row stitches count increases by 2. Row 8 stitch count should be 17 dc.

 

Row 9: 

  • ch 2
  • dc in each sp across
  • turn 

Stitches count: 17 dc

 

Row 10: Repeat Row 3

Stitches count: 19 dc

 

Row 11: 

  • ch 1
  • sc in first sp, hdc in next, dc in next 
  • 2 tr in each of next 2 sp
  • 2 dc in next, dc in next, hdc in next, sc in next
  • Skip next sp (center st)
  • sc in next, hdc in next, dc in next, 2 dc in next
  • 2 tr in each of next 2 sp
  • dc in next, hdc in next, sc in last sp
  • turn 

Stitches count: 24 total stitches with tr stitches creating the initial curves 

 

Row 12: 

  • ch 1
  • sc in first sp, hdc in next
  • 2 dc in each of next 2 sp
  • 2 tr in each of next 2 sp
  • dc in next 2 sp, hdc in next 2 sp, sc in next
  • Skip 2 sp (center)
  • sc in next sp, hdc in next 2 sp, dc in next 2 sp
  • 2 tr in each of next 2 sp
  • 2 dc in each of next 2 sp
  • hdc in next, sc in last sp
  • turn 

Stitches count: 30 total stitches

 

Row 13: 

  • ch 1
  • sc in first sp, sc in next, hdc in next 2 sp
  • 2 dc in next sp, dc in next, 2 dc in each of next 2 sp, dc in next 2 sp
  • hdc in next 2 sp, sc in next
  • Skip 2 sp (center)
  • sc in next sp, hdc in next 2 sp
  • dc in next 2 sp, 2 dc in each of next 2 sp, dc in next, 2 dc in next sp
  • hdc in next 2 sp, sc in next, sc in last sp
  • turn 

Stitches count: 32 total stitches

 

Fasten off and make another heart. 

 

After both hearts are completed, weave in ends. Lay them against each other and use the remaining yarn (or a different yarn if contrast is desired!) and sew around the edges with a whip stitch, leaving a gap towards the end (just large enough to use to stuff the pillow. Stuff with desired choice of filling- polyfill, fabric scraps, etc. and finish sewing the edge. Fasten off and weave in ends. 

 

Put on a loveseat, couch, or bed for decoration! This also could be hung up from a ceiling or doorknob. 

 

An alternative idea is instead of sewing the two pieces together, the two smaller hearts can be used on a table as a table-runner like decoration/centerpiece or even a hot pot mat. 

Ribbon XL Heart Wall Hanging

Skill Level: Beginners

Hook: 9mm (Letter numbers vary between brands here- it’s USUALLY Size M)

Gauge: 4 dc x 3 rows = ~2×2 inches

Dimensions: 21 inches from bottom tip to top of one curve

Ch 3. 

Row 1: 

  • 3 dc in 3rd ch from hook
  • turn 

Stitches count: 3 dc

 

Row 2: 

  • ch 2
  • 2 dc in first sp
  • dc in next
  • 2 dc in last sp
  • turn 

Stitches count: 5 dc

Row 3: 

  • ch 2
  • 2 dc in first sp
  • dc in each sp to last sp
  • 2 dc in last sp
  • turn 

Stitches count: 7 dc

 

Rows 4-18: Repeat row 3, each row stitches count increases by 2. Row 8 stitch count should be 37 dc.

 

Row 19: 

  • ch 2
  • dc in each sp across
  • turn 

Stitches count: 17 dc

 

Row 20: 

  • ch 1
  • sc in first sp, hdc in next 2 sp, dc in next 2 sp
  • 2 dc in next sp, tr in next, 2 tr in next, tr in next 2 sp
  • 2 dc in next, dc in next 2 sp, hdc in next 2 sp, sc in next 2
  • sl st in next 3 sp (center)
  • sc in next 2, hdc in next 2 sp, dc in next 2 sp, 2 dc in next
  • tr in next 2 sp, 2 tr in next, tr in next, 2 dc in next sp
  • dc in next 2 sp, hdc in next 2 sp, sc in last sp
  • turn 

Stitches count: 40 total stitches, not counting sl sts at center

 

Row 21: 

  • ch 1
  • sc in first sp, hdc in next 2 sp, 2 dc in next, dc in next 2 sp
  • tr in next, 2 tr in next, tr in next, 2 tr in next, tr in next 2 sp
  • dc in next 4 sp, hdc in next 2 sp, sc in next 3 sp
  • Skip next sp (center st)
  • sc in next 3 sp, hdc in next 2 sp, dc in next 4 sp
  • tr in next 2 sp, 2 tr in next, tr in next, 2 tr in next, tr in next
  • dc in next 2 sp, 2 dc in next, hdc in next 2 sp, sc in last sp
  • turn 

Stitches count: 48 total stitches

 

Row 22: 

  • ch 1
  • sc in first sp, hdc in next 2 sp
  • dc in next 2 sp, 2 dc in next sp, dc in next 2 sp
  • tr in next, 2 tr in next, tr in next, 2 tr in next sp, tr in next 2 sp
  • dc in next 4 sp, hdc in next 3 sp, sc in next 2 sp 
  • Skip next 2 sp (center sts)
  • sc in next 2 sp, hdc in next 3 sp, dc in next 4 sp
  • tr in next 2 sp, 2 tr in next sp,  tr in next, 2 tr in next, tr in next 
  • dc in next 2 sp, 2 dc in next sp, dc in next 2 sp
  • hdc in next 2 sp, sc in last sp
  • turn 

Stitches count: 52 total stitches



Row 23: 

  • ch 1
  • sc in first sp, sc in next,  hdc in next 3 sp
  • dc in next 3 sp, 2 dc in next sp
  • tr in next, 2 tr in next, tr in next 2 sp, 2 tr in each of next 2 sp
  • 2 dc in next sp, dc in next 3 sp, 2 dc in next sp, dc in next, 
  • hdc in next 3 sp, sc in next sp 
  • Skip next 2 sp (center sts)
  • sc in next sp, hdc in next 3 sp 
  • dc in next, 2 dc in next sp, dc in next 3 sp, 2 dc in next sp
  • 2 tr in each of next 2 sp, tr in next 2 sp, 2 tr in next sp, tr in next
  • 2 dc in next sp, dc in next 3 sp
  • hdc in next 3 sp, sc in last 2 sps
  • turn 

Stitches count: 62 total stitches

 

Fasten off and weave in ends. 

 

To hang- use extra yarn and select one or two hanging points on the piece as desired. Hang on the wall, door, in your closet, on your window. You can even put it on a table as a centerpiece! If more functional purpose is desired, it would be an useful earring hanger. 

 

Other ideas: add tassels or pom-poms on edges/at point or use a different colored yarn to run a whip stitch around the edge to give it an accent. 

Alternative Ideas

This yarn is very sturdy and would be ideal for things like coasters, hot pot mats, a plant pot mat, or baskets. This amount of yarn has NOT been tested with other patterns but feel free to email us for more pattern ideas. Take a look at this basket pattern (can also be a hanging basket) from April 2020 QuickProjects Box.

Pattern Declaimer

This is a paid pattern originally designed for a Yarn Bits Shop subscription box. 

You have permission to sell any item made from this pattern. However, you are not allowed to resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern or downloads in any printed or digital form (in full), or to claim the pattern as your own original design. If you want to sell or share a picture of your work from this pattern, please clearly credit the design to me: Lauren Samar of Yarn Bits Shop (with link to the website when applicable). 

Occasionally a mistake or typo falls through, please report them via email (help@yarnbitsshop.com) and the pattern will be updated accordingly.

Posted on by

QP February 2021 Dual Colored Braided Cowl

Dual Colored Braided Cowl

February 2021 QuickProjects

Designed by Lauren Samar for Yarn Bits Shop

Feel free to email for pattern help or questions: help@yarnbitsshop.com

The braided technique featured in this pattern LOOKS more complicated than it actually is. This technique can be worked for many patterns in one or many colors to create texture and lots of fun color combinations. In this pattern, it is two colors to emphasize the braid color changing. The overall pattern is straightforward and it is basically working stripes with loops added in the last row of that color section. Then the loops are “braided” together prior to the second last row. If a cowl (which is perfect for spring and could also be worn slightly pulled over the shoulders!) is not desired, a pillow cover is a great alternative option. Happy Crocheting! ~Lauren  

In this box, there is: 

  • Two skeins of Universal Yarns Uptown DK in two colors- $14
  • Size H Crochet Hook OR Handmade By Lauren Stitch Markers – $4
    • Quick Note– Make sure you’re getting emails from us! We send out a color survey most months and will be offering an option between hooks or a different extra if a hook is not needed. 
  • Sweeter Card- $9
  • Collectible and exclusively designed for QuickProjects Boxes monthly sticker- $4
  • Exclusive Pattern and Support- $10

 

Included in your subscription:

  • VIP membership- $15/month
  • Monthly Masterclass- $50-100/month
  • Exclusive Facebook Group- $150+/month (but connections are priceless!)
  • Yarn Bits Shop Hub access 

Dual Colored Braided Cowl

Skill Level: Easy

Hook: Size H or 5mm

Gauge: 8 st x 6 rows of pattern = ~2.5×1.5 inches

Dimensions: 160 ch for starting ch = ~50 inches around and ~8.5 inches wide



Pattern Notes

  • The pattern is worked in round BUT does turn in directions to keep the seam straight and makes it a little easier to line the loops up. 
  • The starting chain is 160 but any multiple of 4 can be used to adjust sizing as desired. If you want to make the cowl longer around, add more chains and this will make it thinner. If you would like the cowl shorter around (not fit over shoulders at all), reduce the number of chains and it’ll make it thicker. 
  • You will not do anything with the loops in terms of braiding it until the end (it will unravel). Keep an eye on alignment of the loops- ensure that the new loops are lined up with the previous loops every time you’re starting the loop row. 
  • There is a 2-row start, then rows 3-5 are repeated until one color runs out of yarn, then the other color is used for the ending rows- which includes brading the loops and fastening the top of the braid to the fabric so it doesn’t unravel. 

With color A– Ch 160. Without any twists in your chain, sl st to the first chain to create a loop. 

 

Set-Up Rows

Round 1: 

  • ch 1, sc same sp, sc in each sp around
  • sl st to first sc, 
  • turn 

Stitches count: 160 sc

 

Round 2 (Loop Round): 

  • ch 1, sc in same sp
  • sc in next sp
  • *ch 10, sc in next sp (loop made), sc in next 3 sp
  • Repeat from * around (loops made between sets of 4 sc)
  • sl st to first sc, turn 

Stitches count: 160 sc and 40 loops 

 

Body

Round 3: 

  • sl st color B, ch 2
  • hdc same sp, hdc in each sp around (you will be skipping over loops basically)
  • sl st to first hdc, 
  • turn 

Stitches count: 160 hdc

 

Round 4:

  • ch 2, hdc same sp, hdc in each sp around
  • sl st to first hdc, 
  • turn 

Stitches count: 160 hdc

 

Round 5: Repeat Round 2 (Loop Round), ensuring that the sp that the loop “goes over” or “splits” is aligned with the previous loop row. 

 

Working until most of the yarn is used up- Repeat rounds 3-5, alternating colors with each set of 3 rows. The loop round is the last row of the color section and the following row is the opposite color. With the starting ch of 160 defined for the pattern- there should be 11 loop rounds completed. But if the starting chain was adjusted, there may be more or less loop rounds. 

 

Ending Rounds

Repeat rounds 3-4. Depending on the direction of the work after round 4 of the ending rounds, you may not want to turn. Ensure that the loop side is FACING YOU prior to starting the following round. If you need to skip the turn to ensure this, that is fine. 

 

Fastening Braids Row Set-Up/Tips:

Ensure all the loops are on ONE SIDE of the fabric. 

 

To braid- you can do one or a few columns at a time but don’t do all columns prior to starting the fastening round:

  • Working one “column” from bottom to top, start at the bottom loop
  • Pick up bottom loop, twist it so it is flipped over (this closes the “gap”), pick up and pull the loop above it through the hole of bottom loop
  • Pick up 2nd to bottom loop, twist it, pull the next loop above it through
  • Repeat all the way to top of “column”

Fastening Braids Round (2nd last round):

  • ch 1, sc in same sp, 
  • sc to space prior to loop alignment (should only be 1 more sc)
  • *Braid column of loop
  • Twist last loop the same way as all loops have been twisted in column
  • sl st into loop- this fastens the top of the loop to the row, 
  • sc in next 4 sp, 
  • Repeat from * around, braiding and fastening each column of loops to row
  • sl st to beg sc

Stitches count: 160 sc with loops fastened between every 4 sp.

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Last Round:

  • ch 1, sc in same sp, 
  • sc in each sp around, 
  • sl st to beg sc, fasten off and weave in all ends. 

Stitches count: 160 sc

Alternative Ideas

A pillow case can be made by following the same pattern with some adjustments. It can still be worked in a shorter round (maybe roughly 80 chs for starting ch to make a 12×12 pillow covering both sides) and the top/bottom can be sewed together after crocheting size desired and being stuffed. 

The pattern can also be adjusted so it is not working in rounds if desired. Start with a multiple of 4 chs and have loops start after 2 sp in on either side. Follow the pattern without working in rounds- each row would skip the “sl st to beg st”. 

Pattern Declaimer

This is a paid pattern originally designed for a Yarn Bits Shop subscription box. 

You have permission to sell any item made from this pattern. However, you are not allowed to resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern or downloads in any printed or digital form (in full), or to claim the pattern as your own original design. If you want to sell or share a picture of your work from this pattern, please clearly credit the design to me: Lauren Samar of Yarn Bits Shop (with link to the website when applicable). 

Occasionally a mistake or typo falls through, please report them via email (help@yarnbitsshop.com) and the pattern will be updated accordingly.

Posted on by

QP December 2020 – Bidirectional Ombre Hat

Bidirectional Ombre Hat

December 2020 QuickProjects

Designed by Lauren Samar for Yarn Bits Shop

Feel free to email for pattern help or questions: help@yarnbitsshop.com

A hat pattern has never been featured in one of our crocheting boxes before and that needed to be addressed! This pattern is made up of two main parts- the band and the body. The band is doubled up yarn to have extra warmth around your ears and the body features a stitch called linked half double crochet. It’s a modification to the standard half double crochet stitch to create a tighter fabric. After the body is completed, the hat top is bundled together to close it and accessories can be added if desired. Have fun making this cozy hat with a really fun yarn!

Bidirectional Ombre Hat Pattern

Skill Level: Beginners

Hook: Size I

Gauge: see each section 

Band

Gauge: 10 stitches x 8 rows = ~2.5 x 2 inches (not stretched)

Take BOTH ends of the yarn (outside and center) and work with them together for the band. The band is worked with double yarn but the body is not. 

Ch 11. If a wider band is desired, add more chains! 

Row 1: 

  • sc in 2nd ch from hook
  • sc in each ch across
  • turn 

Stitches count: 10 sc

Row 2: 

  • working in back loop only, ch 1
  • sc in each sp (back loop only) across
  • turn 

Stitches count: 10 sc in back loop only

Repeat Row 2 until length is circumference desired, ensuring an EVEN number of rows have been completed. When determining circumference, the band should stretch (comfortably) due to the ribbing. Here are some general guidelines:

  • Teen/Small Adult: 21-22”
  • Medium Adult: 22-23.5”
  • Large Adult: 23.5-25”

For best results with fit, measure the head circumference where the person would wear the hat and use that measurement to determine the length of the band. 

Finishing Band: 

Fold band (no twists) so the both ends are lined up. You’re going to work the corresponding spaces from both ends together so ensure that your latest row is to the front of you already turned in the direction that you’re going to work. 

Ch 1, sl st the next front/back spaces together across to the other end, fasten off. 

Special Stitches Directions

Linked Half Double Crochet (linked hdc)

  • Insert hook into second bar on side of hdc just completed, yo and pull through sp (2 loops on hook)
    • This replaces the yo completed in a normal hdc
  • Insert hook into next sp, yo and pull through sp (3 loops on hook)
  • yo and draw through all 3 loops on hook

Beginning Linked Half Double Crochet (beg linked hdc)

  • This is only used for the first hdc of the row. 
  • Insert hook into second chain of beg chain, yo and pull through sp (2 loops on hook)
  • Insert hook into next sp, yo and pull through sp (3 loops on hook)
  • yo and draw through all 3 loops on hook

Body

Gauge: 8 stitches x 6 rows = ~2 x 2 inches 

The stitch used is called the linked half double crochet, it’s a modification of the standard half double crochet stitch that creates tight fabrics as well as an unique look. The work is not turned at all, it is worked consistently in rounds until the height desired is reached. 

The first round is the set-up round for the rest of the body, transitioning the band into the body. 

Also- the body only uses a single strand, not doubled up like the band. 

Round 1: 

  • Sl st into any sp (row of the band) the edge of the band
  • ch 1, sc in same sp
  • 1 sc in each row around to beg (easier way to see think about this is 2 sc between each peak of the ribs of the bands)
  • sl st to first sc

Stitches count: Even number of sc but doesn’t really matter for the pattern- count if you’re concerned about dropping stitches, etc.. This stitches count is what every round should be going forward

Round 2: 

  • ch 3, 
  • beg linked hdc, 
  • linked hdc in each sp around to beg, 
  • sl st to top of first hdc

Stitches count: same as previous round. 

Repeat round 2 until hat reaches the total height needed to cover the head, approximately 8-10 inches from bottom of band. If desired, you can keep making it longer to make it more slouchy. Here are some general guidelines:

  • Teen/Small Adult: 8-8.5”
  • Medium Adult: 8.5-9”
  • Large Adult: 9-9.5”

Fasten off with a long tail. 

Finishing 

To finish the hat, the top needs to be closed securely and any desired accessories added. 

To close the top, use the long tail and weave in/out around the edge of the hat. Pull the end of the tail tight and that should pull together the edges to the center. Weave the ends around the center in several directions and fasten securely. 

Weave in all ends. 

If desired, a flower, circular, or similar accessory (many options available dependent on what you actually want!) may be added to the hat on the edge between the band and body. Alternatively, a pompom can be made and added to the top of the hat. 

Pattern Declaimer

This is a paid pattern originally designed for a Yarn Bits Shop subscription box. 

You have permission to sell any item made from this pattern. However, you are not allowed to resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern or downloads in any printed or digital form (in full), or to claim the pattern as your own original design. If you want to sell or share a picture of your work from this pattern, please clearly credit the design to me: Lauren Samar of Yarn Bits Shop (with link to the website when applicable). 

Occasionally a mistake or typo falls through, please report them via email (help@yarnbitsshop.com) and the pattern will be updated accordingly.

Posted on by

QP Crocodile Stitch Pillow Cover

Crocodile Stitch Pillow Cover

March 2020 QuickProjects

Designed by Lauren Samar for Yarn Bits Shop

Feel free to email for pattern help or questions: help@yarnbitsshop.com

The Mandala yarn took the yarn world by surprise and became very popular quickly. Tweed Stripes is one of the latest variation and it is appealing to the eye as well as really fun to use. The look is created by two strands of different Mandala yarns twisted together and between multiple skeins, the color changes are not exactly the same. With this yarn, the crocodile stitch is a great way to feature the pretty color changes and create a throw pillow that adds a pop of color wherever it’s placed without being overwhelming. This stitch also can be used to create different fun projects with the 3D scales!

Crocodile Stitch Pillow Cover Pattern

Supplies: 1 skein of Lion Brand Mandala Tweed Stripes, complementary yarn of choice (amount as needed dependent on size of pillow) OR fabric for back of cover (see sizing notes and finishing notes), size G Hook, yarn needle,

Skill:  Intermediate

Gauge:  14 ch to start by first 5 rows of pattern = 3×3 inches

Dimensions: See sizing notes

Sizing Notes

With only one skein (Note: to be fully transparent- box subscribers only got one skein due to weight of yarn and shipping costs) of Mandala Tweed Stripes and working with the crocodile stitch (which eats up a lot of yarn), the sizing of the pillow is important to decide before proceeding. Find the pillow you want to cover and go from there.

With the gauge given and using the Curved Crocodile Stitch (which is two less DC stitches per scale compared to the Flat Crocodile Stitch), one skein with a little leftovers yeilds one side of a cover measuring at 14 by 14 inches (56 chains when starting). With the Flat Crocodile Stitch, one skein yeilds  one side measuring 12 by 12 inches (50 chains when starting).

If the pillow is rectangular, use square inches to determine if there is enough yarn. For example, if the pillow size is 12 by 16″ that is 192 square inches. The 14 by 14″ example from above is 196 square inches so there should be enough yarn using the Curved Crocodile Stitch for 12 by 16″ rectangular pillow.

Crocodile Stitch Overview:

This stitch is worked in two parts. The first part is a set-up row of 2-dc clusters and the second part is crocheting down one post and up the other post of every other 2-dc clusters, creating a “scale”. Skipping every other cluster is what creates the tension between scales and allows them to lay flat. After the foundation rows, the pattern is repeated over 2 rows containing 4 parts to create the scales offsets (points between the row below’s scales). The cover is turned side to side as working down then up the posts.

Special Stitches:

2-DC Cluster: 2 dc in same sp {Note: cluster in this patter refers to this stitch}

Curved Crocodile Stitch: Working over two dc stitches next to each other, (4 dc then 1 tr down first post (first dc of cluster)), ch 1, (1 tr then 4 dc up next post (second dc of cluster))

Flat Crocodile Stitch: Working over two dc stitches next to each other, (5 dc then 1 tr down first post (first dc of cluster)), ch 1, (1 tr then 5 dc up next post (second dc of cluster))

Rows Pattern:

Cluster Row: starting in sp between posts of previous row clusters, ch 3, dc in same sp, *ch 2, 2 dc in sp between posts in next cluster**, repeat from * to ** across to end. {Note: when working skipped clusters from previous scale row, feel free to pick up the “corner” between the scales in the new cluster row to secure the corners. However, this is NOT necessary.}

Edge Scales Row: sl st around outermost post, ch 3, {3 dc (or 4 dc for flat crocodile stitch) and 1 tr around post- working downwards towards top of previous row, ch 1, 1 tr then 4 dc (or 5 for flat crocodile stitch) around second post of cluster- working upwards towards top of current row} , *sk next dc cluster, crocodile stitch around next cluster**, repeat from * to ** across to second last cluster, sk second last cluster, {4 dc (or 5 for flat crocodile stitch) then 1 tr down first post, ch 1, 1 tr then 3 dc (or 4 for flat crocodile stitch) up next post, ch 3 and sl st around top of post}

Inside Edge Scales Row: sk first dc cluster, *crocodile stitch around next cluster, sk next dc cluster**, repeat from * to ** across to second last cluster, crocodile stitch around cluster, sl st to center of last cluster

To start:

Ch multiple of 6 + 2. {56 ch for a 14″ long side, 50 ch for a 12″ long side)

Foundation:

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each sp across, turn. [multiple of 6 + 1 sc]

Row 2: ch 3, dc in same sp, *sk 2 sp, 2 dc in same sp, ch 2**, repeat from * to ** to last sp, 2 dc in last sp, turn. [odd number of 2-dc sets]

Pattern:

Row 2, part 2: work Edge Scales Row

Row 3, part 1: work Cluster Row

Row 3, part 2: work Inside Edge Scales Row

Row 4, part 1: work Cluster Row

Row 4, part 2: work Edge Scales Row

Repeat rows 3-4 until desired height is achieved (ending on either Scales row).

Finishing row: ch 1, *sc in sp between posts of cluster, 2 sc in ch 2 sp between clusters**, repeat from * to **, sc in between posts of last cluster. [Same number of sc as row 1] {Note: This row is to help crochet or sew edges together more easily}

Finishing Pillow Cover

Dependent on size of the cover, one skein most likely will cover only one side of the pillow. From here you have a few options to finish:

If Crocodile Stitch in same color is desired on the other side, obtain another skein of the same yarn and create another cover of the same size.  Email Happy Hook if you want to inquire about buying more of the yarn through us.

If solid crochet backing is desired on the other side, use yarn of choice and crochet a cover of the same size. sc or hdc stitches are recommanded to create a tighter fabric for the backing.

If fabric is available and desired (and know how to sew fabric by hand nicely), cut a cover of slightly larger than front cover.

Once both sides are finished, crochet or sew edges together working along the outer post of the clusters on the sides. (instead of the scales edges). If crocheting edges are desired, it is recommended to crochet the top and bottom edges together and sew the side edges due to the edge scales. Stuff pillow insert in before sewing 4th edge. 

Pattern Declaimer

This is a paid pattern originally designed for a Yarn Bits Shop subscription box. 

You have permission to sell any item made from this pattern. However, you are not allowed to resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern or downloads in any printed or digital form (in full), or to claim the pattern as your own original design. If you want to sell or share a picture of your work from this pattern, please clearly credit the design to me: Lauren Samar of Yarn Bits Shop (with link to the website when applicable). 

Occasionally a mistake or typo falls through, please report them via email (help@yarnbitsshop.com) and the pattern will be updated accordingly.

Posted on by

QP August 2020 – Overlay Crochet Coasters or Potholder

Overlay Crochet Coasters or Potholder

August 2020 QuickProjects

Easy-Intermediate

Intermediate

Advanced

Designed by Lauren Samar for Yarn Bits Shop

Feel free to email for pattern help or questions: help@yarnbitsshop.com

Overlay crocheting is a technique of creating a fabric of single crochet stitches in the back loop only and working 

additional stitches over the fabric in the front loop of below rows to create different designs. This is a really fun way to create more three dimensional designs of all kinds. There are THREE patterns provided in this booklet- the easiest features columns only. The intermediate features diamonds and the advanced features a flower design. All three circle designs end up at the same size and stitches count in the circumference. This allows for the square to be the same (and hence making potholders easier too!). While there are three patterns, every design you make can be completely different due to the color choices!

Overlay Crochet Coasters or Potholder Pattern

Supplies: One skein of Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton (This is the “Core Color”), one pack of Lion Brand cotton BonBon, size G crochet hook, darning needle for invisible joins and weaving in ends.

Skill: Level noted with each pattern

Gauge: Does not matter here.

Dimensions:  5 by 5 squares; potholders are 2 squares by 2 squares plus border

READ THIS BEFORE STARTING

Overlay Crochet Notes 

~ All stitches are worked in the BACK LOOP ONLY unless noted otherwise. 

~ Every round is worked with the same side facing you.

~ Every round is closed with the invisible join- which means the color is fastened off on the last stitch and is NOT slip stitched to the first stitch. See stitch guide for steps of invisible join.

Special Stitches Guide

The following stitches are used in the patterns:

Invisible Join: After making the last stitch of round, cut yarn (leaving a 4 inch or so tail) and pull through top of last stitch made. Using a needle, pull yarn tail from front to back through the 2 top loops of the 2nd stitch of the round. Then, pull tail from top to bottom through the center of the top 2 loops of the last stitch of the round. This creates a “false” stitch that you can crochet into in the following rounds.

Front Post Double Crochet (fp dc): yo, pick up COLUMN by inserting from right to left and pulling the column towards you, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook two times

Front Post Triple Crochet (fp tr): yo twice, pick up COLUMN by inserting from right to left and pulling the column towards you, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook three times

Special Stitches Guide Continued

Front Post Triple Crochet 2 Together (fp tr2tog): yo twice, pick up FIRST COLUMN, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook TWO times (2 lps remaining), yo twice, pick up SECOND COLUMN, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook TWO times (3 lps remaining), yo and pull through all lps on hook

Front Post Double Crochet 3 Together (fp tr3tog): yo, pick up FIRST COLUMN, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook (2 lps remaining), yo, pick up SECOND COLUMN, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook (3 lps remaining), yo, pick up THIRD COLUMN, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook (4 lps remaining),yo and pull through all lps on hook

Front Post Triple Crochet 3 Together (fp tr3tog): yo twice, pick up FIRST COLUMN, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook TWO times (2 lps remaining), yo twice, pick up SECOND COLUMN, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook TWO times (3 lps remaining), yo twice, pick up THIRD COLUMN, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook TWO times (4 lps remaining),yo and pull through all lps on hook

Double-Triple-Double Crochet 3 Together (dc-tr-dc3tog): yo, pick up FIRST COLUMN, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook (2 lps remaining), yo twice, pick up SECOND COLUMN, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook TWO times (3 lps remaining), yo twice, pick up THIRD COLUMN, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook (4 lps remaining),yo and pull through all lps on hook

Overlay Columns (Easy-Intermediate) 

Colors Needed: 2 BonBon colors and Core Color

With Core Color, Make adjustable ring

Round 1: ch 1, 11 sc in ring, fasten off and complete invisible join. [12 sc]

Round 2: With Core Color,  sl st into any sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, 2 sc in each sp around, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [24 sc]

Round 3: With Color A (color to be used for one set of columns), sl st into first sp of any 2-sc group, ch 1, *dc into corresponding front loop in Round 1**, sc in next 4, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next 3, fasten off. Work invisible join with 1st dc sp. [30 sts: 24 sc, 6 dc]

Round 4: With Color B (color for second set of columns), sl st into any dc sp, ch 1, sc in next 2, *tr into corresponding front loop in Round 1 (between columns from last round)**, sc in next 5, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next 2, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [36 sts: 30 sc, 6 tr]

Round 5: With Color A, sl st into any tr sp, ch 1, sc in next 2, *fp dc around corresponding column from Round 3, sk next**, sc in next 5, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next 2, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [36 sts: 30 sc, 6 fp dc]

Round 6: With Color B, sl st into any dc sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, *sc in next 2, fp dc around corresponding column from Round 4, sk next**, sc in next 2, 2 sc in next, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next 2, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [42 sts: 36 sc, 6 fp dc]

Round 7: With Color A, sl st into any dr sp, ch 1, sc in next 3, *fp dc around corresponding column from Round 5**, sc in next 7, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next 3, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [48 sts: 42 sc, 6 fp dc]

Overlay Columns Continued

Round 8: With Color B, sl st into any dr sp, ch 1, sc in next 4, *fp dc around corresponding column from Round 6**, sc in next 8, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next 3, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [54 sts: 48 sc, 6 fp dc]

Round 9: With Color A, sl st into any dc sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, *sc in next 4, fp dc around corresponding column from Round 7, sk next**, sc in next 4, 2 sc in next, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next 2, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [66 sts: 60 sc, 6 fp dc]

Round 10: With Color B, sl st into any dr sp, ch 1, sc in next 5, *fp dc around corresponding column from Round 8**, sc in next 11, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next 5, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [72 sts: 66 sc, 6 fp dc]

Round 11: With Color A, sl st into any dr sp, ch 1, sc in next 5, *fp dc around corresponding column from Round 9, sk next sp**, sc in next 11, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next 5, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [72 sts: 66 sc, 6 fp dc]

See Circle-to-Square Steps to square it out. Weave in all ends.

Overlay Diamonds (Intermediate)

Colors Needed: 2 BonBon colors and Core Color

With Core Color, Make adjustable ring

Round 1: ch 1, 11 sc in ring, fasten off and complete invisible join. [12 sc]

Round 2: With Core Color,  sl st into any sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, 2 sc in each sp around, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [24 sc]

Round 3: With Color A (color to be used for diamonds), sl st into first sp of any 2-sc group, ch 1, *dc into corresponding front loop in Round 1**, sc in next 4, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next 3, fasten off. Work invisible join with 1st dc sp. [30 sts: 24 sc, 6 dc]

Round 4: With Color B (color for columns), sl st into any dc sp, ch 1, sc in next 2, *tr into corresponding front loop in Round 1 (between columns from last round)**, sc in next 5, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next 2, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [36 sts: 30 sc, 6 tr]

Round 5: With Color A, sl st into any tr sp, ch 1, sc in next, *dc into front loop of column (to left) from Round 3, sc in next, fp dc around corresponding column from Round 3, sk next sp, sc in next, dc into front loop of same sp (to right) BEHIND fp dc just created (3 prongs created from one column)**, sc in next 3, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [48 sts: 30 sc, 18 dc]

Round 6: With Color B, sl st into first column of any 3-prong combination, ch 1, sc in next 5, *fp dc around corresponding column from Round 5, sk next sp**, sc in next 7, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [48 sts: 42 sc, 6 dc]

Overlay Diamonds Continued

Round 7: With Color A, sl st into any dc, ch 1, sc in next, *fp dc around right column of combo, sc in next 2, fp dc around center column, sk next, sc in next 2, fp dc around left column of combo, sc in next 3, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [60 sts: 42 sc, 18 dc]

Round 8: With Color B, sl st in to right dc of any dc combo, ch 1, sc in next 7, *fp dc around corresponding column from Round 6, sk next sp**, sc in next 9, repeat from * ending last rep with **, sc in next, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [60 sts: 54 sc, 6 dc]

Round 9: With Color A, sl st into any dc, ch 1, sc in next 3, *fp dc around right leg of combo, sc in next, fp dc around center column, sk next, sc in next, fp dc around right column of combo**, sc in next 7, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next 3, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [72 sts: 54 sc, 18 dc]

Round 10: With Color B, sl st in to right dc of any dc combo, ch 1, sc in next 7, *fp dc around corresponding column from Round 6, sk next sp**, sc in next 11, repeat from * ending last rep with **, sc in next 3, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [72 sts: 66 sc, 6 dc]

Round 11: With Color A, sl st into any dc, ch 1, sc in next 5, *fp dc3tog across each column from Round 9, sk next**, sc in next 11, repeat from * ending last rep with **, sc in next 5, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [72 sts: 66 sc, 6 dc3tog]

See Circle-to-Square Steps to square it out. Weave in all ends.

Overlay Flower (Advanced)

Colors Needed: 2 BonBon colors and Core Color

With Core Color, Make adjustable ring

Round 1: ch 1 (count as sc here and throughout), 11 sc in ring, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [12 sc]

Round 2: With Core Color,  sl st into any sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, 2 sc in each sp around, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [24 sc]

Round 3: With Color A (color to be used for outlining flower petals), sl st into any first sc of any 2-sc group, ch 1, sc in next sp, *dc into front loop of corresponding Round 1 sp, sc in next 2 sp, dc into same front loop (creating a V)**, sc in next 2 sp, repeat from * ending last rep at **, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [36 sts: 12 dc forming 6 V’s, 24 sc]

Round 4: With Color B (color for columns), sl st into any “left leg” dc sp, ch 1, sc in next sp, *tr into corresponding front loop in Round 1 (between V’s from previous round)**, sc in next 6 sp, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next 4 sp, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [42 sts: 6 tr, 36 sc]

Round 5: With Color C (color for center of petals), sl st into any of the tr sp, ch 1, sc in next 3 sp, *dc-tr-dc3tog with dc in corresponding Round 3 front loops (2 sp between V) and tr in corresponding Round 2 front loop (between V) {Note: see instructions for this stitch in stitches guide}**, sc in next 7, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next 4 sp, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [48 sts: 6 dc-tr-dc3tog, 42 sc]

Round 6: With Color A, sl st into any 3tog sp, ch 1, sc in next, *fp tr around corresponding left leg from Round 3, sc in next 5, fp tr around corresponding right leg**, sc in next 3, repeat from *ending last rep at **, sc in next sp, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [60 sts: 12 fp tr, 48 sc]

 

Overlay Flower Continued

Round 7: With Color B, sl st into any “left leg” tr sp, ch 1, sc in next 4, *fp tr around corresponding column from Round 4**, sc in next 10, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next 5, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [66 sts: 6 fp tr, 60 sc]

Round 8: With Color C, sl st into any tr sp, ch 1, sc in next 4 sp, *fp tr3tog around each of the columns from the dc-tr-dc3tog in Round 5 {Note: see instructions for this stitch in stitches guide}, sk next st (center of flower st)**, sc in next 10, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next 5, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [66 sts: 6 fp tr3tog, 60 sc]

Round 9: With Color A, sl st into any sp before a tr3tog sp, ch 1, fp tr2tog around each of the legs from Round 6 (outline of flower columns), sk next sp**, sc in next 10, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next 9, fasten off. Work invisible join into tr2tog st. [66 sts: 6 fp tr2tog, 60 sc]

Round 10: With Color B, sl st into any tr2tog sp, ch 1, sc in next 5, *fp tr around corresponding column from Round 7**, sc in next 11, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next 5, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [72 sts: 6 fp tr, 66 sc]

Round 11: With Color A, sl st into any tr sp, sc in next 5, *fp dc around BOTH columns from Round 9, sk next sp**, sc in next 11, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in next 5, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [72 sts: 6 fp dc, 66 sc]

See Circle-to-Square Steps to square it out. Weave in all ends.

 

Overlay Columns:

Easy-Intermediate due to shaping of circle and every round being different stitch counts.

Overlay Diamonds:

Intermediate due to shaping of circle and several special stitches

Overlay Flower:

Advanced due to shaping of circle and usage of multiple special stitches

Circle-To-Square Steps

For the next 2 rounds, BOTH front and back loops are picked up with each st. 

Round 12: Before starting this round, select which stitch would host a corner of your square (mainly for alignment of the circle into square) and count 6 spaces AFTER that corner sp- this is where you’ll start this round. With Core Color, sl st into 6th sp after desired corner sp, ch 1, sc in next 6 sp, *hdc in next 2, dc in next 2, tr in next, (tr, ch 2, tr) in next, tr in next, dc in next 2, hdc in next 2**, sc in next 7, repeat from * ending last rep at **, fasten off (for consistency purposes). Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [76 sts and 4 ch-2 sp; 19/side]

Round 13: With Core Color, sl st into sp before any corner, ch 1, *(2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc) in ch-2 sp**, sc in each sp across to corner, repeat from * ending last rep at **, sc in each sp to 2nd last sp of side, fasten off. Work invisible join with 2nd sc. [92 sts and 4 ch-2 sp; 23/side]

Finishing Designs

If Coasters are desired, pattern is done as is- either a circle or squared out. Optionally, to make it non-slip, sew non-slip fabric (for example: Tenura non slip fabric) to center of back.

For Potholder, make 8 squares of desired designs. After all 8 are made, sew 4 squares together with all designs facing one direction to make a larger square (2 x 2). After the two large squares are completed, line up the two larger squares with back of designs facing each other (right side facing out of either side) and crochet together around with Core Color.

Pattern Declaimer

This is a paid pattern originally designed for a Yarn Bits Shop subscription box. 

You have permission to sell any item made from this pattern. However, you are not allowed to resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern or downloads in any printed or digital form (in full), or to claim the pattern as your own original design. If you want to sell or share a picture of your work from this pattern, please clearly credit the design to me: Lauren Samar of Yarn Bits Shop (with link to the website when applicable). 

Occasionally a mistake or typo falls through, please report them via email (help@yarnbitsshop.com) and the pattern will be updated accordingly.

Posted on by

CM January 2021: Hoooked Spiral Rug

Hoooked Spiral Rug

January 2021 CrochetMastery

Designed by Lauren Samar for Yarn Bits Shop

Feel free to email for pattern help or questions: help@yarnbitsshop.com

January 2021- CrochetMastery: Hoooked Spiral Rug

Skill Level: Intermediate to Intermediate-Advanced

Hook Size: 10mm

Hoooked Yarns is mainly known for their recycled t-shirt/fabrics yarn and it is a really fun yarn to work with for larger projects that do not need to be very flexible. This yarn is perfect for a rug and the pattern features several spirals! The continuous spiral technique is ideal for fewer ends to weave in with color changes as well as less seams with the round changes.The gauge is NOT provided in the pattern BUT a ROUGH dimension is due to the nature of the yarn- even the same batch can vary a bit with thickness and stretchiness.The main thing to focus on is continuously checking that it is not too warped after each round- this will ensure that the rug finishes flat enough for usage! 

In this box, there is: 

  • 3 skeins of Hoooked Zpagetti Yarns, 2 in one color and 1 in another color- $33
  • Size M/10mm Crochet Hook- $5
  • Handmade by Lauren Stitch Markers – $6 
  • Exclusive Pattern and Support- $10

Included in your subscription:

  • VIP membership- $15/month
  • Monthly Masterclass- $50-100/month
  • Exclusive Facebook Group- $150+/month (but connections are priceless!)
    • More excitement coming soon! 
  • Yarn Bits Shop Hub access 

Stitches/Abbreviation Guide:

Yarn Over (yo); Space (sp); Stitch (st); Skip (sk); Loop (lp)

Chain (ch): with one lp on hook, yo and pull through the lp on hook

Slip Stitch (sl st): insert hook into target sp, yo and pull through sp AND lp on hook

Single Crochet (sc): insert hook into target sp, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through both lps on hook

Single Crochet Two Together (sc2tog): insert hook into first target sp, yo and pull through sp, insert hook into second target sp, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through all lps on hook

Single Crochet Three Together (sc3tog): insert hook into first target sp, yo and pull through sp, insert hook into second target sp, yo and pull through sp, insert hook into third target sp, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through all lps on hook

Half Double Crochet (hdc): yo, insert hook into target sp, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through all three lps on hook

Double Crochet (dc): yo, insert hook into target sp, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook two times

Overall Layout Notes

Prior to starting the below motifs, decide the general layout of the rug. Due to the nature of the yarn, an exact size cannot be determined with the amount of yarn due to the yarn variations in thickness/stretchiness. With the yarn included, 4 continuous spirals can be made (with the spiral being obvious in the pattern) and they can be attached in a 2×2 pattern and the center filled. 

Smaller circles with 1-3 less rounds prior to the border round can also be made by following the patterns and ending them earlier. With this option, more circles can be created and laid out in 2×3 pattern instead of a square. The center gap is filled but the edges stay rounded. However-the outside valleys can be filled optionally with the border rounds 

Another alternative is to work one large circle in the pattern- the continuous spiral with three strands is recommended in this case. Or even two large circles attached at the sides for a 1×2 rug is an option.

Continuous Spiral- Two Strands 

This version uses two of the three skeins- one of each so that the spiral is visible. The main stitch here is half double crochet. Check if there is warping after each round by laying the circle on a flat surface and ensure it is flat. If it is warped, either undo the previous round and do a round of NO increases (like Round 6) then go back and complete the round skipped since the numbers should remain the same. 

As mentioned in the overall notes, smaller circles can be made- work desired number of rounds and then the finishing round. 

Make a magic ring with yarn 1.

Round 1: 

  • With yarn 1: 
    • ch 2, 4 hdc in ring. 
    • Drop loop from hook, place stitch marker in loop if desired. 
  • With yarn 2: 
    • sl st into ring and ch 2
    • hdc 4 in ring
  • Continuing with yarn 2:
    • 3 hdc around the beg ch of yarn 1. 
    • Drop loop from hook, place marker in loop if desired. 
  • Picking up yarn 1 loop, 3 hdc around beg ch of yarn 2. 

Stitches Count: 7 st of each color / 14 hdc total

 

Round 2:

  • With each strand:
    • skip first hdc immediately after the beg ch
    • 2 hdc in each of next 6 sp
    • Drop loop from hook, place marker in loop if desired. 

Stitches Count: 12 st of each color / 24 hdc total

 

Round 3:

  • With each strand:
    • {1 hdc in next, 2 hdc in next} 6 times
    • Drop loop from hook, place marker in loop if desired. 

Stitches Count: 18 st of each color / 36 hdc total

 

Round 4:

  • With each strand:
    • {1 hdc in next 2, 2 dc in next} 6 times
    • Drop loop from hook, place marker in loop if desired. 

Stitches Count: 24 st of each color / 48 hdc total

 

Round 5:

  • With each strand:
    • {1 hdc in next 3, 2 dc in next} 6 times
    • Drop loop from hook, place marker in loop if desired. 

Stitches Count: 30 st of each color / 60 hdc total

 

Round 6:

  • With each strand:
    • 1 hdc in next 30 sp (no increases)
    • Drop loop from hook, place marker in loop if desired. 

Stitches Count: 30 st of each color / 60 hdc total

 

Round 7:

  • With each strand:
    • {1 hdc in next 4, 2 dc in next} 6 times
    • Drop loop from hook, place marker in loop if desired. 

Stitches Count: 36 st of each color / 72 hdc total

 

Round 8: 

  • With each strand:
    • 1 hdc in next 36 sp (no increases)
    • Drop loop from hook, place marker in loop if desired. 

Stitches Count: 36 st of each color / 72 hdc total

 

Finishing Round: 

  • For each yarn strand: hdc in next, sc in next, sl st in next 2
  • If the printed yarn was used, fasten off. If both were the solid yarns, fasten off one of them. 
  • With remaining strand and NOT joining with other circles, 
    • ch 1, sc in same sp 
    • sc in each sp around
    • sl st to first sc and fasten off. 
  • If this circle is ready to be joined with the other motifs,
    • ch 1, sc in same sp 
    • sc in each sp to joining sps
    • Join with 4 sts (repeat steps below 4 times). 
      • Joining steps: Drop loop from hook, pick up space on other circle from top to bottom, pick up loop and pull through sp, sc in next sp of working circle
      • There should be 14 sp between the 4 joining sp on a circle
    • Continue with sc in each sp to end of round
    • sl st to first sc and fasten off

Stitches Count: 72 sc total

Continuous Spiral- Three Strands 

This version uses all three skeins to create a “thicker” spiral. The main stitch for this spiral is dc. Check if there is warping after each round by laying the circle on a flat surface and ensure it is flat. If it is warped, either undo the previous round and do a round of NO increases (like Round 6) then go back and complete the round skipped since the numbers should remain the same. 

 

As mentioned in the overall notes, smaller circles can be made- work desired number of rounds and then the finishing round. This pattern is also ideal for a single large circle rug if desired- continue pattern of increasing rounds and no increasing rounds until all yarn is used up or desired size is reached. 

Make a magic ring with yarn 1.

Round 1: 

  • With yarn 1: 
    • ch 3, 3 dc in ring. 
    • Drop loop from hook, place stitch marker in loop if desired. 
  • With yarn 2: 
    • sl st into ring and ch 3
    • dc 3 in ring
    • Drop loop from hook, place stitch marker in loop if desired. 
  • With yarn 3:
    •  sl st into ring and ch 3
    • dc 3 in ring
    • Drop loop from hook, place stitch marker in loop if desired. 
  • Continuing with yarn 3:
    • 2 dc around the beg ch of yarn 1. 
    • Drop loop from hook, place marker in loop if desired. 
  • Picking up yarn 1 loop, 2 dc around beg ch of yarn 2. 
  • Picking up yarn 2 loop, 2 dc around beg ch of yarn 3. 

Stitches Count: 5 st of each color / 15 dc total

 

Round 2:

  • With each strand:
    • 2 dc in each of next 5 sp
    • Drop loop from hook, place marker in loop if desired. 

Stitches Count: 10 st of each color / 30 dc total

 

Round 3:

  • With each strand:
    • {1 dc in next, 2 dc in next} 5 times
    • Drop loop from hook, place marker in loop if desired. 

Stitches Count: 15 st of each color / 45 dc total

 

Round 4:

  • With each strand:
    • {1 dc in next 2, 2 dc in next} 5 times
    • Drop loop from hook, place marker in loop if desired. 

Stitches Count: 20 st of each color / 60 dc total

 

Round 5:

  • With each strand:
    • {1 dc in next 3, 2 dc in next} 5 times
    • Drop loop from hook, place marker in loop if desired. 

Stitches Count: 25 st of each color / 75 dc total

 

Round 6:

  • With each strand:
    • dc in next 25 sp
    • Drop loop from hook, place marker in loop if desired. 

Stitches Count: 25 st of each color / 75 dc total

 

Finishing Round: 

  • For each yarn strand: dc in next, hdc in next, sc in next, sl st in next 2
  • Fasten off the printed strand and one of the solid strands. 
  • With remaining strand and NOT joining with other circles, 
    • ch 1, sc in same sp 
    • sc in each sp around
    • sl st to first sc and fasten off. 
  • If this circle is ready to be joined with the other motifs,
    • ch 1, sc in same sp 
    • sc in each sp to joining sps
    • Join with 4 sts (repeat steps below 4 times). 
      • Joining steps: Drop loop from hook, pick up space on other circle from top to bottom, pick up loop and pull through sp, sc in next sp of working circle
      • There should be 14-15 sp between the 4 joining sp on a circle (whatever looks better and makes sense with the circles you have)
    • Continue with sc in each sp to end of round
    • sl st to first sc and fasten off

Stitches Count: 75 sc total

Finishing Overall Rug

Once all desired circles have been made and joined along the way (with second and on circles), there may be a gap at the middle of circles if multiple circles were used. Use the following guidelines to fill in the gap(s)- it is not an exact number of stitches due to variations in size as desired.

Gap Round 1: 

  • sl st into any sp in the middle of a side, ch 1 and sc in same sp
  • *sc in each sp until 3 sp before point (where circles were joined)
  • sc2tog over next 2 sp
  • sc2tog with sp on current side before point and sp on other side of point
  • sc2tog over next 2 sp**
  • Repeat from * to ** around through all points 
  • sc in each sp to beg sc, sl st to beg sc



Gap Round 2:

  • ch 1, sc in same sp
  • *sc in each sp until 1 sp before center of point st
  • sc3tog over next sp, center sp, and sp on next side
  • Repeat from * around
  • sl st to beg sc

Repeat Gap Round 2 until it’s just a circle in the gap. Divide the number of sp by 2 and complete sc-tog with half of the remaining sp twice (sc4tog for example). Divide by 3 if needed. 

 

Fasten off and weave in ends. Repeat gap work for all gaps. 

 

A border can be worked for the whole outside edge of the rug and curve out the points (where circles meet) by following this general pattern: 

  • sl st into any sp, ch 1 and sc in same sp
  • *Work inc section according to last inc round of spiral to 3 sp prior to point
    • For example, if last round of increases was {1 hdc/dc in each of next 4 sp, 2 hdc/dc in next}, this round should be +1 of the number stitches between the 2 hdc/dc or {1 sc in each of next 5 sp, 2 sc in next}
    • Check for warping, add more increases sp (2 sc) evenly spread out as needed! 
  • Work decreases at point: 
    • FIRST ROUND of border ONLY: sc2tog over next 2 sp prior to point, sc2tog over next 2 sp over point (1 sp on either side), sc2tog over next 2 sp
    • SECOND ROUND of border and so forth: sc2tog over next 2 sp prior to point, sc3tog over next 3 sp over point (1 sp on either side and center sp), sc2tog over next 2 sp. 
      • If it’s starting to warp too much, sc2tog may not be needed on either side of sc3tog at center. 
  • Repeat from * around, check for warping.
    • If it is curving up, more increases may be needed. 
    • If it is warping, the increasing round is not needed. 
    • The goal is to make it flat and due to the nature of the yarn, it just needs to be checked continuously.

Pattern Declaimer

This is a paid pattern originally designed for a Yarn Bits Shop subscription box. 

You have permission to sell any item made from this pattern. However, you are not allowed to resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern or downloads in any printed or digital form (in full), or to claim the pattern as your own original design. If you want to sell or share a picture of your work from this pattern, please clearly credit the design to me: Lauren Samar of Yarn Bits Shop (with link to the website when applicable). 

Occasionally a mistake or typo falls through, please report them via email (help@yarnbitsshop.com) and the pattern will be updated accordingly.