Author: Lauren

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BB October 2020 Center Motifs Into Rows Blanket

Center Motifs Into Rows Blanket

October 2020 BlanketBox
Throw sized- Large would have more rows on either side of the blanket (and… ignore the unwoven ends!)

Designed by Lauren Samar for Yarn Bits Shop

Feel free to email for pattern help or questions: help@yarnbitsshop.com

This design was inspired by the thought of combining ROWS work with MOTIF work and the result is a center section of motifs with rows working away from the center. The circle-in-square motifs are created first then attached together point to point to create the main length of the blanket. The “valley” gaps are then filled to create a rectangle for the rows to work off of. Then the rows are worked away from the center section on either side. Overall, the pattern has multiple aspects but must be worked in an orderly way.

Center Motifs Into Rows Blanket Pattern

Supplies: 

11/15 (Throw/Large Throw) Skeins of Universal Yarns Uptown Worsted in 4 colors

Size I Crochet Hook

Darning Needle

 

Skill Level: Intermediate with easier option for rows section.

 

Dimensions: 

Throw: ~55 inches long and 36 inches wide

Large Throw: ~58 inches long and 48 inches wide

 

Gauge: N/A

 

A couple notes: 

~ One color will have one less skein than the others BUT with the way that the rows are worked, this color does not HAVE to be the circle center of the motifs as designed. This color only should not be used to fill in the valleys. Otherwise, the design is flexible with the color orders. 

~ There are two size designs- Throw and Large Throw (first time being offered!). The core design is based on the THROW size. Large Throw is simply a continuation width wise in this case.

~ The design presented here is Intermediate. To make the rows section easier, simply skip doing the special stitches and work half doubles or doubles in the color order desired. The overall look will be very similar (maybe a bit more “solid”). 




Stitches/Abbreviation Guide:

Yarn Over (yo); Space (sp); Stitch (st); Skip (sk); Loop (lp)

Magic Ring: an adjustable ring used at the center to help tighten the gap after crocheting the first round. 

Chain (ch): with one lp on hook, yo and pull through the lp on hook

Slip Stitch (sl st): insert hook into target sp, yo and pull through sp AND lp on hook

Single Crochet (sc): insert hook into target sp, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through both lps on hook

Half Double Crochet (hdc): yo, insert hook into target sp, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through all three lps on hook

Double Crochet (dc): yo, insert hook into target sp, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook two times

Triple Crochet (tr): yo twice, insert hook into target sp, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook three times

Half Double Crochet 2 Together (hdc2tog): yo, insert hook into first target sp, yo and pull through sp (3 loops on hook), yo, insert hook into second target sp, yo and pull through sp (5 loops on hook), yo and pull through all loops on hook

Half Double Crochet 3 Together (hdc3tog): yo, insert hook into first target sp, yo and pull through sp (3 loops on hook), yo, insert hook into second target sp, yo and pull through sp (5 loops on hook), yo, insert hook into third target sp, yo and pull through sp (7 loops on hook), yo and pull through all loops on hook

Single Crochet 2 Together (sc2tog): insert hook into first target sp, yo and pull through sp (2 loops on hook), insert hook into second target sp, yo and pull through sp (3 loops on hook), yo and pull through all loops on hook

Crossed Double Crochet: This is worked over 2 sp. sk first sp, dc in 2nd sp, dc in first sp going around the back of the work

Puff Stitch: [yo, insert hook in sp, yo and pull through sp] 3 times in same sp, yo and pull through all loops on hook, ch 1

Color combinations

There are 4 colors in the pattern- three of them have the same amount of skeins (3 for Throw and 4 for Large Throw) and one color has one less skein (2 for Throw and 3 for Large Throw). In the example blanket, one less skein color is the one used in the center of the motifs (the circles). This was designed on purpose but it is not necessary to choose that color for the circles in the motif- you just may need to adjust the row color orders.

Make one of each size circle-in-square motif. Each size is its own section. 

ALTERNATIVELY, make 5 of the same size or even 3 of one size and 2 of another size (to put in following order: 1, 2, 1, 2, 1)

Circle to Square Motif- 1 Round Circle 

With Color A, Make an adjustable ring. 

Round 1: ch 3 (counts as dc)

  • 11 dc in ring
  • sl st to top of beg ch
  • fasten off. 
  • Stitches count: 12 dc

Round 2: With Color B, sl st into any sp

  • ch 1, sc in same sp
  • *2 hdc in next sp, ch 2, 2 hdc in next sp**, sc in next
  • repeat from * around ending at **
  • sl st in first sc
  • Stitches count: 4 corner sp, 5 st/side or 20 st total.

Round 3: ch 2, hdc in same sp

  • hdc in each sp and (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in each corner sp around
  • sl at to first hdc
  • Stitches count: 4 corner sp, 9 st/side or 36 st total.

Round 4: ch 2, hdc in same sp

  • hdc in each sp and (1 hdc, ch 2, 1 hdc) in each corner sp around
  • sl st to first hdc
  • Stitches count: 4 corner sp, 11 st/side or 44 st total

Round 5-10: Repeat round 4, increasing the number of st/side by 2 each round (or the total by 8 each round)

Stitches Counts:

Round 5: 13 st/side, 52 st total

Round 6: 15 st/side, 60 st total

Round 7: 17 st/side, 68 st total

Round 8: 19 st/side, 76 st total

Round 9: 21 st/side, 84 st total

Round 10: 23 st/side, 92 st total

 

Fasten off and weave in ends. 

Circle to Square Motif- 2 Rounds Circle 

With Color A, Make an adjustable ring. 

Round 1: ch 3 (counts as dc), 

  • 11 dc in ring
  • sl st to top of beg ch
  • Stitches count: 12 dc

Round 2: ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same sp

  • 2 dc in each sp around
  • sl st to top of beg ch and fasten off
  • Stitches count: 24 dc

Round 3: With Color B, sl st into any sp 

  • ch 1, 2 sc in same sp
  • *sc in next, hdc in next, (1 hdc and 1 dc) in next sp, ch 2, (1 dc and 1 hdc) in next sp, hdc in next sp**, 2 sc in next
  • repeat from * around ending at **
  • sl st in first sc.
  • Stitches count: 4 corner sp, 9 st/side or 36 st total.

Round 4: ch 2, hdc in same sp

  • hdc in each sp and (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in each corner sp around
  • sl at to first hdc
  • Stitches count: 4 corner sp, 13 st/side or 52 st total.

Round 5: ch 2, hdc in same sp

  • hdc in each sp and (1 hdc, ch 2, 1 hdc) in each corner sp around
  • sl st to first hdc
  • Stitches count: 4 corner sp, 15 st/side or 60 st total

Round 6-9: Repeat round 5, increasing the number of st/side by 2 each round (or the total by 8 each round)

Stitches Counts:

Round 6: 17 st/side, 68 st total

Round 7: 19 st/side, 76 st total

Round 8: 21 st/side, 84 st total

Round 9: 23 st/side, 92 st total

 

Fasten off and weave in ends. 

Circle to Square Motif- 3 Rounds Circle 

With Color A, Make an adjustable ring. 

Round 1: ch 3 (counts as dc)

  • 11 dc in ring
  • sl st to top of beg ch
  • Stitches count: 12 dc

Round 2: ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same sp

  • 2 dc in each sp around
  • sl st to top of beg ch
  • Stitches count: 24 dc

Round 3: ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same sp

  • *1 dc in next, 2 dc in next
  • repeat from * around to last sp
  • dc in last sp
  • sl st to top of beg ch and fasten off
  • Stitches count: 36 dc

Round 4: With Color B, sl st into any sp

  • ch 1, sc in same sp
  • sc in next 2
  • *hdc in next 2, 2 dc in next sp, ch 2, 2 dc in next sp, hdc in next 2 sp**, sc in next 3
  • repeat from * around ending at **
  • sl st in first sc
  • Stitches count: 4 corner sp, 11 st/side or 44 st total.

Round 5: ch 2, hdc in same sp, 

  • hdc in each sp and (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in each corner sp around
  • sl at to first hdc
  • Stitches count: 4 corner sp, 15 st/side or 60 st total.

Round 6: ch 2, hdc in same sp

  • hdc in each sp and (1 hdc, ch 2, 1 hdc) in each corner sp around
  • sl st to first hdc
  • Stitches count: 4 corner sp, 17 st/side or 68 st total

Round 7-9: Repeat round 6, increasing the number of st/side by 2 each round (or the total by 8 each round)

Stitches Counts:

Round 7: 19 st/side, 76 st total

Round 8: 21 st/side, 84 st total

Round 9: 23 st/side, 92 st total

 

Fasten off and weave in ends. 

Circle to Square Motif- 4 Rounds Circle 

With Color A, Make an adjustable ring. 

Round 1: ch 3 (counts as dc)

  • 11 dc in ring
  • sl st to top of beg ch
  • Stitches count: 12 dc

Round 2: ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same sp

  • 2 dc in each sp around
  • sl st to top of beg ch
  • Stitches count: 24 dc

Round 3: ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same sp

  • *1 dc in next, 2 dc in next
  • repeat from * around to last sp
  • dc in last sp
  • sl st to top of beg ch and fasten off
  • Stitches count: 36 dc

Round 4: ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next sp

  • *2 dc in next, dc in next 2 sp, 
  • repeat from * around to last sp
  • 2 dc in last sp
  • sl st to top of beg ch
  • Stitches count: 48 dc

Round 5: With Color B, sl st into any sp

  • ch 1, 2 sc in same sp
  • sc in next 3
  • *hdc in next 2, dc in next, 2 dc in next sp, ch 2, 2 dc in next sp, dc in next, hdc in next 2 sp**, 2 sc in next, sc in next 3
  • repeat from * around ending at **
  • sl st in first sc.
  • Stitches count: 4 corner sp, 15 st/side or 60 st total.

Round 6: ch 2, hdc in same sp

  • hdc in each sp and (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in each corner sp around
  • sl at to first hdc
  • Stitches count: 4 corner sp, 19 st/side or 76 st total.

Round 7: ch 2, hdc in same sp

  • hdc in each sp and (1 hdc, ch 2, 1 hdc) in each corner sp around
  • sl st to first hdc
  • Stitches count: 4 corner sp, 21 st/side or 84 st total

Round 8: Repeat round 7, increasing the number of st/side by 2 each round (or the total by 8 each round)

Stitches count: 23 st/side, 92 st total

 

Fasten off and weave in ends. 

Circle to Square Motif- 5 Rounds Circle 

With Color A, Make an adjustable ring. 

Round 1: ch 3 (counts as dc)

  • 11 dc in ring
  • sl st to top of beg ch
  • Stitches count: 12 dc

Round 2: ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same sp

  • 2 dc in each sp around
  • sl st to top of beg ch
  • Stitches count: 24 dc

Round 3: ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same sp

  • *1 dc in next, 2 dc in next
  • repeat from * around to last sp
  • dc in last sp
  • sl st to top of beg ch and fasten off
  • Stitches count: 36 dc

Round 4: ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next sp

  • *2 dc in next, dc in next 2 sp, 
  • repeat from * around to last sp
  • 2 dc in last sp
  • sl st to top of beg ch
  • Stitches count: 48 dc

Round 5: ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same sp

  • *dc in next 3 sp, **2 dc in next
  • repeat from * around ending at **
  • sl st to top of beg ch
  • Stitches count: 60 dc

Round 6: With Color B, sl st into any sp, 

  • ch 1, sc in same sp
  • sc in next 4, 
  • *hdc in next 2, dc in next 2, (1 dc and 1 tr) in next sp, ch 2, (1 tr and 1 dc) in next sp, dc in next 2, hdc in next 2 sp**, sc in next 5, 
  • repeat from * around ending at **
  • sl st in first sc.
  • Stitches count: 4 corner sp, 17 st/side or 68 st total.

Round 7: ch 2, hdc in same sp

  • hdc in each sp and (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in each corner sp around
  • sl at to first hdc
  • Stitches count: 4 corner sp, 21 st/side or 84 st total.

Round 8: ch 2, hdc in same sp

  • hdc in each sp and (1 hdc, ch 2, 1 hdc) in each corner sp around
  • sl st to first hdc
  • Stitches count: 4 corner sp, 23 st/side or 92 st total

Fasten off and weave in ends. 

Attaching Circle-in-Square Motifs

Part 1

With Color C and the 1-Round Circle-in-Square Motif

Round 1: Sl st into any of the corner sp, ch 2

  • *(2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in corner, hdc in each sp across, 
  • repeat from * around, 
  • sl at to first hdc
  • Stitches count: 4 corner sp, 27 st/side or 108 total sts

Round 2: sl st to sp before corner sp, ch 3, dc in same sp 

  • *(dc, ch 2, dc) in corner sp, dc in next sp, repeat [ch 2 (or ch 1 if loose), sk next sp, dc in next] across to corner sp, 
  • repeat from * around, 
  • sl st to first dc, fasten off.
  • Stitches count: 4 corner sp, 16 dc/side with ch 2 between each except dc before corner sp (29 total sp/side counting dc and ch-2 sps) or 64 dc total around.

Part 2

With same color and 2-Rounds Circle-in-Square Motif

Round 1: Same as first motif’s round 1 

Round 2: sl st to sp before corner sp, ch 3, dc in same sp

  • *(dc, ch 2, dc) in corner sp, dc in next sp, repeat [ch 2 (or ch 1 if loose), sk next sp, dc in next] across to corner sp**
  • repeat from * to ** to 3rd corner
  • (dc, ch 1, sl st to corner sp from previously worked motif to attach the two motifs, ch 1, dc) in 3rd corner sp
  • dc in next sp
  • repeat [ch 2 (or ch 1 if loose), sk next sp, dc in next] across to corner sp
  • sl st to first dc, fasten off.
  • Stitches count: 4 corner sp, 16 dc/side with ch 2 between each except dc before corner sp  (29 total sp/side counting dc and ch-2 sps) or 64 dc total. 2 motifs attached at opposite corners. 

 

Repeat Part 2 with all motifs IN circle size order (3-Rounds, 4-Rounds, 5-Rounds) and attaching 3rd corner to previously worked motif so it is attached at opposite corners. This creates the LENGTH of the overall blanket. 

 

After all motifs are attached, complete the “border” around the edges of the squares, working up and down the sides. Starting at the top or bottom corner, sl st into any sp, ch 2 (does NOT count as a sc so work hdc in same sp), then work your way around with the following: 

  • hdc in each sp
  • hdc in each ch 1 sp
  • (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in all corners (peaks)
  • BEFORE attachment points of circle-in-square motifs, hdc2tog over the two spaces PRIOR to the corners that are attached, hdc2tog with both ch-1 sp on either side of the attachment point in corner, hdc2tog over the next two spaces (3 hdc2tog worked before, at, and after corner attachment points)
  • Stitches count PER SIDE (valley to peak is 1 side): 30 st with 1 st at center of valley OR 33 st/side at ENDS (top/bottom only) with sp in corners/peaks. 

Filling in Valleys of Center

After all the circle-in-square motifs are attached in order, the space between the peaks and the ends (top/bottom) need to be filled to create a rectangle out of the rippled sides. 

For all VALLEYS (area between peaks on sides only- 8 total): 

With Color D, sl st into sp before center of valley sp

Row 1: ch 2

  • hdc3tog (with same sp, center sp, and next sp after center)
  • sl st into next 2 sp, turn 
  • Stitch count: 1 sp at center (not counting sides sl sts), 29 sp/side available (sp sl st into does not count)

Row 2: ch 2 

  • hdc2tog over next 2 sp on side (over sl st sps)
  •  hdc in next sp
  • hdc2tog over next 2 sp on other side of valley
  • sl st into next 2 sp on side, turn
  • Stitch count: 3 sp at center (not counting sides sl sts), 27 sp/side available (sp sl st into does not count)

Row 3: ch 2, 

  • hdc2tog over next 2 sp on side (over sl st sps)
  • hdc each sp across to side
  • hdc2tog over next 2 sp on other side of valley
  • sl st into next 2 sp on side, turn
  • Stitch count: 5 sp (not counting sides sl sts). 25 sp/side available (sp sl st into does not count)

Rows 4-14: Repeat Row 3 and increase the number of hdc sp per row by 2 (and decrease the number of sp on either side of the valley by 2 as well)

 

Stitches Counts: 

Row 4: 7 sp, 23 sp/side available (sp sl st into does not count)

Row 5: 9 sp, 21 sp/side available

Row 6: 11 sp, 19 sp/side available

Row 7: 13 sp, 17 sp/side available

Row 8: 15 sp, 15 sp/side available

Row 9: 17 sp, 13 sp/side available

Row 10: 19 sp, 11 sp/side available

Row 11: 21 sp, 9 sp/side available

Row 12: 23 sp, 7 sp/side available

Row 13: 25 sp, 5 sp/side available

Row 14: 27 sp, 3 sp/side available

 

Row 15: ch 2 

  • hdc2tog over next 2 sp on side (over sl st sps)
  • hdc each sp across to side
  • hdc2tog over next 2 sp on other side of valley
  • sl st into next sp on side
  • sl st into corner sp (peak), turn
  • Stitches count: 29 sp, 1 sp/side available

Row 16: ch 1

  • sc2tog over next 2 sp on side (over sl st sps)
  • sc in next 3 sps
  • sc2tog over next 2 sp on other side of valley over last sp and in corner
  • fasten off. 
  • Stitches count: 31 sp

 

For all ENDS VALLEYS (areas on top/bottom of the attached squares to smooth out the peaks at top/bottom into a rectangle- 4 total): 

With Color D and with the side to be worked to your left (or right if you’re a left handed crocheter), sl st into corner sp. 

Row 1: ch 2

  • hdc2tog (with same sp and next sp after center)
  • sl st into next 2 sp, turn 
  • Stitch count: 1 sp, 31 sp on side available (sp sl st into does not count)

Row 2: ch 2

  • hdc2tog over next 2 sp on side (over sl st sps)
  • hdc in next sp, turn
  • Stitch count: 2 sp, 29 sp on side available (sp sl st into does not count)

Row 3: ch 2

  • hdc each sp across to side
  • hdc2tog over next 2 sp side
  • sl st into next 2 sp on side, turn
  • Stitch count: 3 sp, 27 sp on side available (sp sl st into does not count)

Rows 4-16: Repeat Row 2-3 and increase the number of hdc sp per row by 1 (and decrease the number of sp on either side of the valley by 2 as well)

Stitches Counts: 

Row 4: 4 sp, 25 sp/side available (sp sl st into does not count)

Row 5: 5 sp, 23 sp/side available

Row 6: 6 sp, 21 sp/side available

Row 7: 7 sp, 19 sp/side available

Row 8: 8 sp, 17 sp/side available

Row 9: 9 sp, 15 sp/side available

Row 10: 10 sp, 13 sp/side available

Row 11: 11 sp, 11 sp/side available

Row 12: 12 sp, 9 sp/side available

Row 13: 13 sp, 7 sp/side available

Row 14: 14 sp, 5 sp/side available

Row 15: 15 sp, 3 sp/side available

Row 16: 16 sp, 1 sp/side available

 

Row 17: ch 1

  • sc each sp across to side
  • sc2tog over next 1 sp side and in corner sp
  • fasten off.
  • Stitch count: 17 sp

Border around Filled-out Center

After completing all valleys, there are two rounds of borders to even connect the valley work and completely smooth out the sides. 

Round 1:  sl st into any sp on edge with Color D, ch 2, then: 

  • hdc in each sp 
  • 2 hdc in motif corner sps on sides
  • 2 hdc in motif corner sp on top/bottom
  • 1 hdc for each row on top/bottom 
  • (1 hdc, ch 2, 1 hdc) for each corner (4 corners only now!)

Then sl st to first hdc.

Total stitch counts: 170 on long sides and 38 on short sides 

Round 2: ch 2, hdc in each sp around and (1 hdc, ch 2, 1 hdc) in each corner sp, sl st to first hdc. fasten off.

Total stitch counts: 172 on long sides and 40 on short sides (top/bottom)

Center-out Rows

There’s two versions for the rows. The easier version is hdc or dc in each sp back and forth in your color order of choice, alternating long sides to ensure the colors are used up evenly. The more advanced version works a combination of the following stitches: Crossed DC stitches, Puff stitches with ch sp between, hdc, and dc. 

This is one option (More examples after this section): 

Row 1: With Color A, ch 3, dc in first sp, 

  • crossed dc across to last sp
  • dc in last sp, turn.
  • Stitches count: 85 crossed dc sets, 1 dc at each end. 

Row 2: With Color B, sl st into loop, ch 3

  • dc in sp between dc and first crossed dc set
  • *dc in crossed dc (around sp between dc in set, not in dc sp), dc between crossed dc set
  • repeat from * to end
  • dc in sp between last crossed dc set and ending dc
  • Stitches count: 172 dc

Row 3: with same color, ch 3

  • dc in each sp across, turn 
  • Stitches count: 172 dc

Row 4: With Color C, sl st into loop

  • puff stitch in first sp, 
  • *ch 1 (total of ch 2 between puff stitches), sk next sp, puff stitch in next sp, 
  • repeat from * to end, turn
  • Stitches count: 86 puff stitches with ch sp between each

Row 5: With same color, ch 4

  • sk puff stitch
  • *puff st in ch-1 sp, ch 1 
  • repeat from * to end
  • hdc in last sp, turn
  • Stitches count: 85 puff stitches with ch sp between each

Row 6: With Color A, sl st into loop, ch 2

  • 2 hdc in each ch sp across (skipping all puff st sp), turn
  • Stitches count: 172 hdc

Row 7: Repeat Row 4 with color C

Row 8: Repeat Row 5 with color C

Row 9: With Color B, sl st into loop, ch 2

  • 2 dc in each ch sp across (skipping all puff st sp), turn
  • Stitches count: 172 dc

Row 10: With same color, ch 3

  • dc in each sp across, turn 
  • Stitches count: 172 dc

Row 11: With Color A, ch 3, dc in first sp

  •  crossed dc across to last sp
  • dc in last sp, turn.
  • Stitches count: 85 crossed dc sets, 1 dc at each end. 

Repeat rows 2-11 until yarn runs out. 

 

Alternatively with above order: Work rows 1-6 with a different color for row 6, then repeat row 1-6.

 

After running out of one color and if you have other yarn left, you can add the border color in and make a new set of rows at the end to finish the yarn up. In the example blanket, rows 1-11 completed as described above then it was repeated once more (row 2-11). After that, it alternates between a hdc row in color D and a crossed dc sets row in color A until color A runs out. 

 

Options: 

~ Alternate between crossed dcs and hdc or dc rows (repeat row 1-2 from above example)

~ Alternate between puff stitches rows (2 rows recommended) (Repeat 4-6 from above example)

~ Only work rows of hdc and dc in desired color order. 

 

Reminder: work one side of the blanket for that color then work the other side of the blanket with the same row work to ensure that the color is used up equally! 

Border

The border is simple to keep the focus on the overall color work. Use Color D (same color used to fill in the valleys) is recommended but any color can be used.

Round 1: ch 2

  • sc or hdc in each sp around and (1 sc or hdc, ch 2, 1 sc or hdc) in each corner sp, 
  • sl st to first dc/hdc

 

Repeat as desired if you have enough yarn!

Fasten off and weave in ends.  

Pattern Declaimer

This is a paid pattern originally designed for a Yarn Bits Shop subscription box. 

You have permission to sell any item made from this pattern. However, you are not allowed to resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern or downloads in any printed or digital form (in full), or to claim the pattern as your own original design. If you want to sell or share a picture of your work from this pattern, please clearly credit the design to me: Lauren Samar of Yarn Bits Shop (with link to the website when applicable). 

Occasionally a mistake or typo falls through, please report them via email (help@yarnbitsshop.com) and the pattern will be updated accordingly.

Posted on by

BB July 2020 Blooming Flower Hexagons Afghan

Blooming Flower Hexagons Afghan

July 2020 BlanketBox

Designed by Lauren Samar for Yarn Bits Shop

Feel free to email for pattern help or questions: help@yarnbitsshop.com

Blooming Flower Hexagons Afghan

Supplies: 

2 skeins of 5 colors of Hook Nook Main Squeeze

Size I Crochet Hook

Darning Needle or Hook Nook End Weaver

Skill Level: Intermediate

Dimensions: 

Blooming Flower Hexagon Dimension: 8 inches across

Expanded Hexagon Dimension: 11 inches across if doing 4 additional rounds

Full blanket dimensions are dependent upon the hexagon size selected but the final dimensions (with yarn provided) should be:

5 columns of 5 8” hexagons: About 32 inches by 39 inches without a border 

4 columns of 6 8” hexagons: About 24 inches by 45 inches without a border

Gauge: 

8 rows of 8 single crochet stitches = 2 by 2 inches

And/Or Blooming Flower Hexagon Dimension = 8 inches across

 

Overlay crocheting is a technique of creating a fabric of single crochet stitches in the back loop only and working additional stitches over the fabric in the front loop of below rows to create different designs. In this pattern, we are creating hexagons with a flower design blooming from the center utilizing the overlay crochet technique. Using five different colors, you have the option to make every single hexagon different with the color order (more on this in the Color Combination section). The border of the hexagons is up to you. You have the option to leave the Blooming Flower Hexagon pattern as designed and create solid hexagons for spacing between the Blooming Flower ones. Alternatively, you can add additional rounds to the main hexagon design (making the hexagon larger) and not make any solid hexagons at all. Lastly, depending on the layout of your blanket, make half hexagons to fill in the gaps at the top and bottom of the blanket. The sides will be rippled but with the half hexagons, the top/bottom will be flat. 

 

Stitches/Abbreviation Guide:

Yarn Over (yo); Space (sp); Stitch (st); Skip (sk); Loop (lp)

Magic Ring: an adjustable ring used at the center to help tighten the gap after crocheting the first round. 

Chain (ch): with one lp on hook, yo and pull through the lp on hook

Slip Stitch (sl st): insert hook into target sp, yo and pull through sp AND lp on hook

Single Crochet (sc): insert hook into target sp, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through both lps on hook

Single Crochet Two Together (sc2tog): insert hook into first target sp, yo and pull through sp, insert hook into second target sp, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through all lps on hook

Half Double Crochet (hdc): yo, insert hook into target sp, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through all three lps on hook

Double Crochet (dc): yo, insert hook into target sp, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook two times

Triple Crochet (tr): yo twice, insert hook into target sp, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook three times

Double Triple Crochet (dt): yo three times, insert hook into target sp, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook four times

Front Post Triple Crochet (fp tr): yo twice, pick up COLUMN by inserting from right to left and pulling the column towards you, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook three times

Front Post Double Triple Crochet (fp dt): yo three times, pick up COLUMN by inserting from right to left and pulling the column towards you, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook four times

Triple Crochet Two Together (tp2tog): yo twice, insert hook into FIRST target sp, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook TWO times (2 lps remaining), yo twice, insert hook into SECOND target sp, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook TWO times (3 lps remaining), yo and pull through all lps on hook

Double Triple Crochet Two Together (dt2tog): yo three times, insert hook into FIRST target sp, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook THREE times (2 lps remaining), yo three times, insert hook into SECOND target sp, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook THREE times (3 lps remaining), yo and pull through all lps on hook

Invisible Join: After making the last stitch of round, cut yarn (leaving a 4 inch or so tail) and pull through top of last stitch made. Using a needle, pull yarn tail from front to back through the 2 top loops of the 2nd stitch of the round. Then, pull tail from top to bottom through the center of the top 2 loops of the last stitch of the round. This creates a “false” stitch that you can crochet into in the following rounds. 

 

Color Combination Considerations

With five colors for this afghan, it is important to consider how you want the hexagons to look as a whole. Below are several options and how to go about it with each. 

 

SAME color order for all Blooming Flower Hexagons:

This means all the Blooming Flower Hexagons look the same throughout the blanket. This means some colors are used more than others within the hexagon. The colors with least usage in the hexagons would make more solid hexagons. To achieve this, pick a single color order and assign each color the letter to be used throughout the pattern/motifs (Color 1 is always Color A, etc). 

 

All color orders are different for Blooming Flower Hexagons

This means all the Blooming Flower Hexagons look different compared to each other. The easiest way to achieve this is to make 5 hexagons concurrently with all following the same color order BUT starting with a different color. For example: The color order is Color 1, Color 2, Color 3, Color 4, Color 5. 

Hexagon 1: Color 1 = Color A, Color 2 = Color B, Color 3 = Color C, Color 4 = Color D, Color 5 = Color E

Hexagon 2: Color 2 = Color A, Color 3 = Color B, Color 4 = Color C, Color 5 = Color D, Color 1 = Color E

Hexagon 3: Color 3 = Color A, Color 4 = Color B, Color 5 = Color C, Color 1 = Color D, Color 2 = Color E

Hexagon 4: Color 4 = Color A, Color 5 = Color B, Color 1 = Color C, Color 2 = Color D, Color 3 = Color E

Hexagon 5: Color 5 = Color A, Color 1 = Color B, Color 2 = Color C, Color 3 = Color D, Color 4 = Color E

 

With the next set of 5 hexagons, change the overall color order to a different order and follow the order for Hexagons 1-5. Effectively, the hexagon look changes with that. The yarn usage for each color would be the same and you would have the same amount of solid hexagons in each color (if doing smaller hexagons is the plan). 

 

Sets of the same Blooming Flower Hexagons

Follow the same color order for all sets of 5 hexagons so you use the same color order every time so that you have sets of hexagons that are the same AND the yarn usage is the same. This means you would make the same color order hexagon the desired number of times (3 of each Hexagon order from above example). 

 

Number of Hexagons Notes

With 10 skeins of yarn, you should be able to make 30 8 inches hexagons (solid or Blooming Flower) OR 15 11 inches hexagons. This would use up ALL the yarn most likely. It is recommended to make 24-25 of the 8 inches hexagons or about 10-12 11 inches hexagons. 

 

In addition, after making a few Blooming Flower Hexagons start to decide about the layout of the whole blanket so that you can plan for how you want it to eventually look. If the color order of the hexagons are changing to keep the yarn usage equal, aim for finishing the first skein of all the colors (maybe all your Blooming Flower Hexagons without the extra rounds) THEN start finalizing your design with what you have left. 

Blooming Flower Hexagon

Notes: 

~ All stitches are worked in the back loop only unless noted otherwise. 

~ Every round is worked with the same side facing you.

~ Every round is closed with the invisible join- which means the color is fastened off on the last stitch and is NOT slip stitched to the first stitch. See stitch guide for steps of invisible join. 

~ See Color Combinations section for explanation of order of colors and options for whole blanket

Round 1: With Color A- Create a magic ring, ch 2 (counts as hdc), 11 hdc in ring, fasten off. Work invisible join in 2nd hdc. [12 hdc]

Round 2: With Color B- sl st into any sp, ch 1 (counts as sc and throughout), sc in same sp, 2 sc in each sp around to last sp, fasten off. Work invisible join in 2nd sc. [24 sc]

Round 3: With Color C- sl st into the first sc of any 2-sc group, ch 1, *dc in front lp of next corresponding hdc in Round 1**, sc in each of the next 4 sp, repeat around from * ending last rep at **, sc in next 3 sp, fasten off. Work invisible join in first dc. [24 sc, 6 dc] {Note for round: every other lp in Round 1 is picked up here}

Round 4: With Color B- sl st into any dc, ch 1, *sc in next sp, tr in front lp of next corresponding hdc in Round 1, sc in next 2 sp, tr in front loop of same hdc in Round 1 holding previous tr (create V shape from same sp), sk next sp**, sc in next sp (dc from round 3 sp), repeat around from * ending last rep at **, fasten off. Work invisible join in 2nd sc. [24 sc, 12 tr or 6 “V”’s] {Note for round: every other lps not picked up in the previous round is picked up here}

Round 5: With Color D- sl st into any sp, ch 1, sc in each sp around, fasten off. Work invisible join in 2nd sc. [36 sc]

Round 6: With Color C- sl st into any sp corresponding to the left leg of the “V” in Round 4, ch 1, sc in next sp, *fp tr around corresponding dc from Round 3**, sc in next 6 sp, repeat from * around ending last rep at **, sc in next 4, fasten off. Work invisible join in 2nd sc. [36 sc, 6 fp tr (extending columns out from Round 3)]

Round 7: With Color E- sl st into any tr, ch 1,  *sc in next 3 sp, dt2tog over two corresponding front lp spaces in Round 2 (base of dt2tog is between the “V” from Round 4)**, sc in next 4 sp, repeat from * around ending last rep at **, sc in next 3 sp, fasten off. Work invisible join in 2nd sc. [42 sc, 6 dt2tog with base between the “V” from Round 4]

Round 8: With Color B- sl st into 2 spaces before any dt2tog sp, ch 1, sc in next sp, *fp dt2tog around first then second legs of “V” from Round 4, sk Round 7 dt2tog sp**, sc in next 7, repeat from * around ending last rep at **, sc in next 5 sp, fasten off. Work invisible join in 2nd sc. [42 sc, 6 fp dt2tog with each leg extending columns from Round 4 into center of petal]

Round 9: With Color A- sl st into 2 spaces before any dt2tog sp, ch 1, sc in next sp, *dt2tog over corresponding front lps from Round 4 tr legs (front lp of first leg then front lp of second leg- these are BEHIND the columns created in Round 8), sk next st, sc in next 3 sp, (2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc) in next sp**, sc in next 3 sp, repeat from * around ending last rep at **, sc in next sp, fasten off. Work invisible join in 2nd sc. [66 sc (11 sc/side), 6 dt2tog with leg base behind columns from previous round, 6 ch-2 sp to form corners of hexagon]

Round 10: With Color C- sl st into first sc of corner cluster, ch 1, sc in next sp, *(sc, ch 1, fp dt around corresponding column from Round 6, ch 1, sc) in corner ch-2 sp**, sc in next 11 sp to next corner, repeat from * around ending last rep at **, sc in next 9 sp, fasten off.  Work invisible join in 2nd sc. [78 sc (13 sc/side), 6 fp dt extending columns from Round 6, 12 ch-1 sp with one on either side of the fp dt at corners]

Round 11: With Color D- sl st into any sc prior to first corner ch-1 sp of any corner, ch 1, *(sc in first ch-1 sp, ch 2, sc in next ch-1 sp) for the corner**, sc in next 13 sp, repeat from * around ending last rep at **, sc in next 11 sp, fasten off. Work invisible join in 2nd sc. [90 sc (15 sc/side), 6 ch-2 sp]

Round 12: With Color D-  sl st into any sc prior to ch-2 corner sp, ch 1, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch 2 sp**, sc in next 15 sp, repeat from * around ending last rep at **, sc in next 14 sp, fasten off. Work invisible join in 2nd sc. [102 sc (17 sc/side), 6 ch-2 sp]

 

Weave in all ends. 

 

If desired to make hexagons larger and skip solid hexagons entirely, continue to the next section (Expanded Hexagons). If solid hexagons of the same size are desired, skip the next section and go to the Solid Hexagons pattern. 

Expanded Hexagon

After completing the Blooming Flower Hexagon, rounds can be added to make the hexagon larger (less hexagons to sew together!). Both loops are worked in these rounds to create a flatness in the extension. Work in the back loop only if desired but each round would need to be fastened off and the invisible join worked to keep the front loop lines around neat. 

Round 13: Either with Color D (last color worked with) OR with a different color if desired, sl st into any sp (picking up both loops), ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each sp around with (sc, ch 2, sc) in each corner ch-2 sp, sl st to first sc. [114 sc (19/side), 6 ch-2 sp]

Round 14: ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each sp around with (sc, ch 2, sc) in each corner ch-2 sp, sl st to first sc. [126 sc (21/side), 6 ch-2 sp]

Round 15: Repeat Round 14. [138 sc (23/side), 6 ch-2 sp]

Round 16: ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each sp around ch 2 OVER each corner (no stitches in ch-2 sp at corners), sl st to first sc. [126 sc (23/side), 6 ch-2 sp]

Variation: You can continue with the rounds if even larger hexagons are desired! 

Solid Hexagon

Round 1: With any color- Make magic ring, ch 2, 12 hdc in ring, sl st to first hdc.  [12 hdc]

Round 2: ch 1, sc in same sp, *2 sc in next sp**, sc in next sp, repeat from * around ending last rep at **, sl st to first sc. [18 sc]

Round 3: ch 1, 2 sc in same sp, *sc in next 2 sp**, 2 sc in next sp, repeat from * around ending last rep at **, sl st to first sc. [24 sc]

Round 4: ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in next 2 sp, *2 sc in next sp**, sc in next 3 sp, repeat around from * ending last rep at **, sl st to first sc. [30 sc]

Round 5: ch 1, sc in same sp, *ch 2**, sc in next 5 sp, repeat around from * ending last rep at **, sc in next 4 sp, sl st to first sc. [30 sc (5/side), 6 ch-2 sp]

Round 6: ch 1, sc in each sp around with (sc, ch 2, sc) in each corner ch-2 sp, sl st to first sc. [42 sc (7/side), 6 ch-2 sp]

Round 7: Repeat Round 6. [54 sc (9/side), 6 ch-2 sp]

Round 8: Repeat Round 6. [66 sc (11/side), 6 ch-2 sp]

Round 9: ch 1, sc in each sp around with ch 2 OVER each corner ch-2 sp (no increases or sc in ch-2 sp), sl st to first sc. [66 sc (11/side), 6 ch-2 sp]

Round 10: Repeat Round 6. [78 (13/side), 6 ch-2 sp]

Round 11: Repeat Round 6. [90 (15/side), 6 ch-2 sp]

Round 12: Repeat Round 6. [102 (17/side), 6 ch-2 sp]

 

Fasten off and weave in the ends. 

HALF Blooming Flower Hexagon

After completing the majority of the hexagons and the arrangement for your blanket is mostly decided, determine the number of half hexagons needed to fill in the gap on the top/bottom of the blanket (see Connecting Hexagons section).  

Three petals and two corner columns are worked here. The split skips out on the corner column along the halfway line due to the stitches. The goal is to have 3 sides that are the same number of stitches per side as the main hexagon pattern. 

Row 1: With Color A- Create a magic ring, ch 2 (counts as hdc), 5 hdc in ring, fasten off. [5 hdc]

Row 2: With Color B- sl st into first sp, ch 1, 2 sc in each sp around to last sp, fasten off. [10 sc]

Row 3: With Color C- sl st into first sp,  ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in next 2 sp, dc in front lp of 2nd sp in Round 1, sc in each of the next 4 sp, dc in front lp of 4th sp in Round 1, sc in next 3 sp, fasten off. [10 sc, 2 dc]

Row 4: With Color B- sl st into first sp, ch 1, tr in front lp of 1st sp in Round 1, sc in next 2 sp, tr in front loop of same hdc in Round 1 holding previous tr (create V shape from same sp), sc in next 2 sp, tr in front lp of 3rd sp in Round 1, sc in next 2 sp, tr in front loop of same hdc in Round 1 holding previous tr, sk next sp, sc in next 2 sp, tr in front lp of 5rd sp in Round 1, sc in next 2 sp, tr in front loop of same hdc in Round 1 holding previous tr, fasten off. [10 sc, 6 tr or 3 “V”’s] 

Row 5: With Color D- sl st into first sp, ch 1, sc in each sp around, fasten off. [16 sc]

Row 6: With Color C- sl st into first sp, ch 1, 2 sc in next same sp, sc in next 4 sp, fp tr around corresponding dc from Round 3, sc in next 6 sp, fp tr around corresponding dc from Round 3, sc in next 4 sp, 2 sc in last sp, fasten off. [18 sc, 2 fp tr (extending columns out from Round 3)]

Row 7: With Color E- sl st into first sp, ch 1,  sc in same sp, sc in next 2 sp, *dt2tog over two corresponding front lp spaces in Round 2 (base of dt2tog is between the “V” from Round 4), sc in next 7 sp**, repeat from * to ** one more time, dt2tog over two corresponding front lp spaces in Round 2, sc in next 3 sp, fasten off. [20 sc, 3 dt2tog with base between the “V” from Round 4]

Row 8: With Color B-  sl st into first sp, ch 1,  sc in same sp, sc in next 2 sp, *fp dt2tog around first then second legs of “V” from Round 4, sk Round 7 dt2tog sp, sc in next 7**, repeat from * to ** one more time, fp dt2tog around first then second legs of “V” from Round 4, sk Round 7 dt2tog sp,  sc in next 3 sp, fasten off. [20 sc, 3 fp dt2tog with each leg extending columns from Round 4 into center of petal]

Row 9: With Color A- sl st into first sp, ch 1, 2 sc in first sp,  sc in next 2 sp, *dt2tog over corresponding front lps from Round 4 tr legs (front lp of first leg then front lp of second leg- these are BEHIND the columns created in Round 8), sc in next 3 sp, (2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc) in next sp, sc in next 3 sp**, repeat from * to **, dt2tog over corresponding front lps from Round 4 tr legs, sc in next 2 sp, 2 sc in last sp, fasten off. [31 sc, 3 dt2tog with leg base behind columns from previous round, 2 ch-2 sp to form corners of hexagon]

Row 10: With Color C- sl st into first sp, ch 1, 2 sc in same sp, sc in next 9 sp, (2 sc, ch 1, fp dt around corresponding column from Round 6, ch 1, sc) in corner ch-2 sp, sc in next 11 sp to next corner,  (sc, ch 1, fp dt around corresponding column from Round 6, ch 1, 2 sc), sc in next 9 sp, 2 sc in last sp, fasten off. [39 sc (13 sc/side), 2 fp dt extending columns from Round 6, 4 ch-1 sp with one on either side of the fp dt at corners]

Row 11: With Color D- sl st into first sp, ch 1, 2 sc in same sp, sc in next 12 sp, (sc in first ch-1 sp, ch 2, sc in next ch-1 sp) for the corner, sc in next 13 sp, (sc in first ch-1 sp, ch 2, sc in next ch-1 sp) for the corner, sc in next 12 sp, 2 sc in last sp, fasten off. [45 sc (15 sc/side), 2 ch-2 sp]

Row 12: With Color D-  sl st into first sp, ch 1, 2 sc in same sp, sc in next 14 sp, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch 2 sp, sc in next 15 sp,  (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch 2 sp, sc in next 14 sp, 2 sc in last sp, DO NOT fasten off. [51 sc (17 sc/side), 2 ch-2 sp]

Finishing: With same yarn from row 12, ch 2. Then, working along bottom, place a sc in each row across with 3 extra at center (2 sc for each hdc row and one for center) to the beginning of row 12, ch 2, sl st to first st of row 12. [27 sc across base of half hexagon] Fasten off and weave in ends. 

 

HALF Expanded Hexagon

After Row 12: Continue with the same yarn from row 12 and skip finishing step (for now). 

Row 13: TURN, ch 1, (picking up both loops now) 2 sc in first sp, sc in each sp to corner sp, (sc, ch 2, sc) in corner sp, sc in each sp to next corner, (sc, ch 2, sc) in corner, sc to last sp, 2 sc in last sp  [57 sc (19 sc/side), 2 ch-2 sp]

Row 14: Repeat Row 13. [63 sc (21 sc/side), 2 ch-2 sp]

Row 15: Repeat Row 13. [69 sc (23 sc/side), 2 ch-2 sp]

Row 16: Turn, ch 1, sc in each sp to corner, ch 2, sk ch-2 sp, sc in each sp to next corner, ch 2, sk ch-2 sp, sc in each sp to end of row. [69 sc (23 sc/side), 2 ch-2 sp]

Work Finishing across bottom of half hexagon (35 sc total across bottom). Fasten off and weave in ends.

HALF Solid Hexagon

Row 1: With any color- Make magic ring, ch 2, 6 hdc in ring, turn. [6 hdc]

Row 2: ch 1, *sc in sp, 2 sc in next sp**, repeat from * to ** 2 more times, turn. [9 sc]

Row 3: ch 1, *2 sc in sp, sc in next 2 sp**, repeat from * to ** 2 more times, turn. [12 sc]

Row 4: ch 1,* sc in next 3 sp, 2 sc in next sp**, repeat around from * to **, turn. [15 sc]

Row 5: ch 1, sc in next 5 sp, ch 2, sc in next 5 sp, ch 2, sc in next 5 sp, turn. [15 sc (5/side), 2 ch-2 sp]

Row 6: ch 1, 2 sc in first sp, sc in each sp around with (sc, ch 2, sc) in each corner ch-2 sp to last sp, 2 sc in last sp, turn. [21 sc (7/side), 2 ch-2 sp]

Row 7: Repeat Row 6. [27 sc (9/side), 2 ch-2 sp]

Row 8: Repeat Row 6. [33 sc (11/side), 2 ch-2 sp]

Row 9: ch 1, 2 sc in first sp, sc in each sp around with ch 2 OVER each corner ch-2 sp (no increases or sc in ch-2 sp), turn. [33 sc (11/side), 2 ch-2 sp]

Row 10: Repeat Row 6. [39 (13/side), 2 ch-2 sp]

Row 11: Repeat Row 6. [45 (15/side), 2 ch-2 sp]

Row 12: Repeat Row 6. [51 (17/side), 2 ch-2 sp]

 

Fasten off and weave in the ends. 

Connecting Hexagons

When all FULL hexagons are completed, determine your arrangement and use the invisible seam technique to connect sides. The best way to look at the arrangements of the hexagon is to create columns one at a time. Columns are offsetted by a half of a hexagon each time so every other column top/bottom sides line up and the between column hexagons top/bottom lines up with the side points. 

The sides of the blanket will not have a large ripple. The top/bottom of the blanket will and this is where half hexagons can be added to fill the gaps- making the top/bottom of the blanket straight-edged. 

Border 

After connecting the hexagons, a border can be added. One option is to complete just one round of single crochet in each sp with (sc, ch 2, sc) in each corner and sc2tog at each valley to just bring everything together. Alternatively, complete more rounds depending on the amount of yarn left. 

Pattern Declaimer

This is a paid pattern originally designed for a Yarn Bits Shop subscription box. 

You have permission to sell any item made from this pattern. However, you are not allowed to resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern or downloads in any printed or digital form (in full), or to claim the pattern as your own original design. If you want to sell or share a picture of your work from this pattern, please clearly credit the design to me: Lauren Samar of Yarn Bits Shop (with link to the website when applicable). 

Occasionally a mistake or typo falls through, please report them via email (help@yarnbitsshop.com) and the pattern will be updated accordingly.

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BB January 2021 Weavetastic Blanket

Weavetastic Blanket

January 2021 BlanketBox

Designed by Lauren Samar for Yarn Bits Shop

Feel free to email for pattern help or questions: help@yarnbitsshop.com

Weaving is generally known as a completely separate technique from crocheting but crocheting can be used to make “woven” fabric by looks. This pattern features two different crochet weaving- Front/Back Post Weave and Strips Weave. The first is worked continuously utilizing the front and back post double crochet stitches and this creates more “solid” squares with the Mandala yarn. The latter is creating strips and literally weaving them. Due to using two different colors in those squares, there are more color changes shown. Between three different colors and two different squares laid out in alternating order, the overall blanket is a dynamic Weavetastic pattern.

In this box, there is: 

  • 9 or 12 skeins of Lion Brand Mandala Yarn in three colors (3 or 4 skeins of each!)- $72 or $96
  • Lion Brand Bamboo Crochet Hooks Size G – $4
  • Meori Pocket Shopper Bag – $15 
  • Exclusive Pattern and Support- $10

Included in your subscription:

  • VIP membership- $15/month
  • Monthly Masterclass- $50-100/month
  • Exclusive Facebook Group- $150+/month (but connections are priceless!)
    • More excitement coming soon! 
  • Yarn Bits Shop Hub access 

Stitches/Abbreviation Guide:

Yarn Over (yo); Space (sp); Stitch (st); Skip (sk); Loop (lp)

Chain (ch): with one lp on hook, yo and pull through the lp on hook

Slip Stitch (sl st): insert hook into target sp, yo and pull through sp AND lp on hook

Single Crochet (sc): insert hook into target sp, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through both lps on hook

Half Double Crochet (hdc): yo, insert hook into target sp, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through all three lps on hook

Double Crochet (dc): yo, insert hook into target sp, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through two lps on hook two times

Front Post Double Crochet (FP dc)

  1. Yo on hook.
  2. Insert hook into hole next to the post of the next stitch, on the “hook side.”
  3. Bring the hook back to the front of the fabric from behind the post, to the hole farther from the hook.
  4. Yo and draw through a lp, bringing it through both sides of the fabric. (3 lps remaining on hook)
  5. Yo and draw through 2 lps on hook. (2 lps remaining on hook)
  6. Yo and draw through remaining 2 lps on hook.

Back Post Double Crochet (BP dc)

  1. Yo on hook.
  2. Insert hook into hole next to the post of the next stitch, on the “hook side” from back to front
  3. Bring the hook back to the back of the fabric around the post, to the hole farther from the hook.
  4. Yo and draw through a loop, bringing it through both sides of the fabric. (3 lps remaining on hook)
  5. Yo and draw through 2 lps on hook. (2 lps remaining on hook)
  6. Yo and draw through remaining 2 lps on hook.

Throw Size Blanket Notes

To give an overview of how the yarn/square combinations were designed, the following will explain the amounts of each square for each color as well as the options! For the THROW size blanket box, there are 3 skeins of each color for a total of 9 skeins and the following are suggested amounts in terms of amounts of each square:

  • One set (one skein of each color) with the Front/Back Posts Weave Square gives 2 squares minus the border so 6 squares would be completed with a set. 
  • One set with the Strips Weave Technique Squares gives 3 HALF (pattern will explain this) of the squares so 9 HALF would be completed with a set. To get to even numbers, some of the second set would need to be used to finish. This would be 4 HALF of each color (12 total) and 6 squares would be completed. The following combinations are suggested and two of each would be made: 
    • Color 1 + Color 2
    • Color 1 + Color 3 
    • Color 2 + Color 3

  • After completing the 12 squares (two plus a bit of the third skein of each color will be used up at this point), the remaining yarn should be utilized for all the borders of the individual squares. 
  • From here, dependent on how much yarn you have left (everyone’s tension and yarn usage is a bit different!), a 3×4 square blanket can be completed OR an additional 4 squares of choice can be made to create a 4×4 blanket.. With the 4×4 blanket, there should be enough yarn for all the squares but not enough yarn for a wide overall border. With all of this said, a 3×4 blanket is the least risky with the yarn amounts and allows for a wider border and therefore is the recommended option. 

Two alternative options are: 

  • Make ALL squares with Back/Front Posts Weave  Technique- 12 (4 of each color) or 16 (5 of two colors and 6 of the other) squares can be made with the yarn included. 
  • Make ALL squares with Stripe Weave Technique- 8 HALF of each color can be made (24 HALF total) then 12 squares will be made with the yarn included. It’s unlikely to have enough for 16 squares. 

Large Throw Size Blanket Notes

To give an overview of how the yarn/square combinations were designed, the following will explain the amounts of each square for each color as well as the options! For the LARGE THROW size blanket box, there are 4 skeins of each color for a total of 12 skeins and the following are suggested amounts in terms of amounts of each square:

  • One set (one skein of each color) with the Front/Back Posts Weave Square gives 2 squares minus the border so 6 squares would be completed with a set. With another set, make 1 more square of each color. There will be 9 squares completed at this point. 
  • Two sets with the Strips Weave Technique Squares gives 6 HALF (pattern will explain this) of the squares per color so 18 HALF would be completed with two sets. This would be 6 HALF of each color (18 total) and 9 squares would be completed. Three of each of the following combinations will be completed: 
    • Color 1 + Color 2
    • Color 1 + Color 3 
    • Color 2 + Color 3
  • After completing the 18 squares (three skeins of each color will be mostly used up at this point), the remaining yarn should be utilized for all the borders of the individual squares. 
  • From here, 2 more squares will need to be made. One of each type of square in colors of your choice would be easiest. 
  • Ensure all individual squares borders are completed then with the 20 squares, attach them in a 4×5 square pattern. 

Two alternative options are: 

  • Make ALL squares with Back/Front Posts Weave Technique- 20 (7 of two colors and 6 of the other color) can be made with the yarn included. 
  • Make ALL squares with Stripe Weave Technique- 10-12 HALF of each color can be made (30-36 HALF total) then 15-18 squares will be made with the yarn included. It’s unlikely to have enough for 16 squares.

Front/Back Posts Weave Technique

Skill Level: Intermediate

Gauge: a “block” is ~1.5 x 1.5”

Dimensions: 12.5” x 12.5”

Ch 62 stitches

Row 1: 

  • hdc in 3rd chain from hook, hdc across, turn

Stitches Count: 60 hdc

Row 2: 

  • ch 2, hdc in each st across, turn 

Stitches Count: 60 hdc

Row 3: 

  • ch 2, hdc in first 2 sp, 
  • *FP dc around next 8 posts from row below, 
  • **BP dc around next 8 posts from row below, 
  • repeat from * across ending at ** (7 sets of 8 sts), 
  • hdc in each of last 2 sp, turn

Stitches Count: 2 hdc at beg and end of row, 7 sets of 8 FP/BP dc in alternating order (56 total dc)

Row 4: 

  • ch 2, hdc in first 2 sp, 
  • *BP dc around next 8 posts from row below, 
  • **FP dc around next 8 posts from row below, 
  • repeat from * across ending at ** (7 sets of 8 sts), 
  • hdc in each of last 2 sp, turn

Stitches Count: 2 hdc at beg and end of row, 7 sets of 8 FP/BP dc in alternating order (56 total dc)

 

Rows 5-8: repeat rows 3-4

Row 9: repeat row 4 (starts next set of blocks in opposite order)

Row 10: repeat row 5 

Rows 11-14: Repeat rows 9-10

 

Repeat rows 3-14 two more times, then repeat rows 3-8 one more time. 

 

Finishing: 

Row 1 (2nd to last row): 

  • ch 2, 
  • hdc in each sp across, turn 

Stitches Count: 60 hdc

 

Row 2 (last row): 

  • ch 2, 
  • hdc in each sp across, 
  • fasten off and weave in ends. 

Stitches Count: 60 hdc

 

The square should look like 7×7 “blocks” within the hdc border. 

 

Border for Square: 

Round 1: 

  • With a different yarn color, sl st into first sp of last row and ch 2. 
  • Top: hdc in each sp across (60 sts), ch 2 for the corner
  • Side: spread out 60 hdc in/between rows down the side. To help with this, put 8 hdc for each of the “blocks” sections and 2 hdc over the first two then for the last two rows. ch 2 for the corner
  • Bottom: hdc in each sp (bottom of beginning ch) across (60 sts), ch 2 for the corner
  • Side: Repeat first Side work. 
  • Sl st to first hdc, do not turn

Stitches Count: 240 hdc and 4 ch-2 sp (60 sts/side)

 

Round 2: 

  • Ch 2, 
  • hdc in same sp and in each sp around with (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in each corner sp, 
  • sl to to first hdc, 
  • fasten off. 

Stitches Count: 256 hdc and 4 ch-2 sp (64 sts/side)

Strips Weave Technique

Skill Level: Beginners crocheting and Intermediate construction

Gauge: a strip width is about 1 inch and the length should be about 9 inches relaxed. It should be able to stretch up to 10.5 inches. 

Dimensions: 12.5” x 12.5”

This square is worked very differently than the previous one. The foundation row is created then 10 strips are worked from the Foundation row. This is repeated the same way for both HALFs. For the first half, after all the strips are created, the top row of each strip is connected together. The second half is woven with the first half THEN the top row of each strip is connected together. After the two HALFs are combined, a border is completed to secure corners and get the sizing correct for the overall pattern. An important note about the width/length of the HALFs- it will be a LOT wider than 12.5 inches prior to being woven and finalized. It may be possible that the length of the strip needs to be adjusted due to tension- if your tension is tight and the strip does not have a lot of give length-wise, add 1-2 more rows and fasten off after rows 26-27 instead of 25. 

Strips Set-up and Work- SAME for both HALFs

Ch 63 stitches

Foundation Row: 

  • hdc in 3rd chain from hook, 
  • hdc across, turn

Stitches Count: 61 hdc

 

Strip 1, Row 1: 

  • Sl st in first sp, sl st into 2nd sp, 
  • ch 3, dc in same sp, 
  • dc in next 4 sp, turn

Stitches Count: 5 dc

Strip Row 2-25: 

  • ch 3, 
  • dc in next 5 sp, 
  • turn

Stitches Count: 5 dc

Fasten off after Row 25 of strip after checking stretch of strip. It should stretch to approximately 10.5 inches comfortably. NOT stretched should be about 9 inches long. If not due to your tension, add an extra row or two but you do want some stretch to allow the weaving to sit nicely.

 

Strip 2, Row 1: 

  • Return to Foundation row, sk sp after previous strip
  • Sl st into next sp, ch 3
  • dc in same sp, dc in next 4 sp,
  • Turn

Stitches Count: 5 dc

 

Repeat Strip Rows 2-25, fastening off after row 25. 

 

Repeat Strip 2 and Strip Rows 2-25 for each strip 8 more times (10 strips total). There should be a sp between each strip and at each end of the Foundation Row. 

 

Finishing First HALF

After all the strips are done for the first HALF, the top rows can be connected together to “secure” the strips into an overall rectangular (pre-weaving) shape. 

 

Set-up Chain

With the same yarn, create a slip knot and ch 1. Working from one end to the other with no twists in the strips, 

  • sl st in each sp of strip 1 (5 sl sts)
  • ch 1
  • sl st in each sp of strip 2 (5 sl sts)
  • ch 1
  • sl st in each sp of strip 3 (5 sl sts)
  • ch 1
  • And so forth with all the strips. 
  • Ch 1 and turn after the last strip. 

Stitches Count: 61 ch, all strips are attached. 

 

Last Row:

  • Ch 2, 
  • hdc in 3rd ch from hook, 
  • hdc in each sp of strip and AROUND ch (or in chain if desired, around is easier) between strips across
  • hdc in last ch
  • fasten off

 

Finishing Second HALF and Overall Square

The Set-up Chain and Last Row from the first HALF is the same for the second HALF but it is completed AFTER weaving strips together. 

Weaving

Lay completed first HALF down. 

Take the incomplete second HALF (top rows of strips are still loose) and lay it so the Foundation row is against the first secured strip of the first half. They are perpendicular to each other basically. 

With the strip on one end, weave it (over-under-over-under…) around the FIRST HALF strips. 

Take the strip next to the one just woven on the SECOND HALF and weave it starting with the opposite order- start with under if first woven strip started with over. For example:

  • Second HALF Strip 1: Over first HALF strip 1, Under first HALF strip 2, Over strip 3, Under strip 4….
  • Second HALF Strip 2: Under first HALF strip 1, Over first HALF strip 2, Under strip 3, Over strip 4… 
  • Second HALF Strip 3: Over first HALF strip 1, Under first HALF strip 2, Over strip 3, Under strip 4… 
  • And so forth

After weaving all strips from the second HALF into the first HALF, you will need to stretch the HALFs to accommodate all the strips- this will make the overall square more even on all sides. 

 

Keeping the pattern, repeat the Set-up Chain and Last Row with the second HALF top rows. This secures the strip weaving and the overall shape. 

 

Border for Square: 

Round 1: 

  • With a different yarn color, sl st into the SECOND sp of any side (top or bottom of either HALF)
  • ch 2, hdc in each sp across to last st,
  • *Pick up BOTH the last st and the first st of the next side and complete hdc, 
  • ch 2 for corner,
  • In same sp containing BOTH the last st of previous side and first st of current side, complete hdc
  •  hdc across to last sts
  • Repeat from around following the same pattern for all corners. 
  • After last corner is completed, sl st to first hdc, do not turn

Stitches Count: 244 hdc and 4 ch-2 sp (61 sts/side)

 

Round 2: 

  • Ch 2, 
  • hdc in same sp and in each sp around with (2 hdc, ch 2, hdc) in each corner sp, 
    • This is to add another st to make it the same number of stitches across ALL squares
  • sl to to first hdc, 
  • fasten off. 

Stitches Count: 256 hdc and 4 ch-2 sp (64 sts/side)

Finishing Overall Blanket 

The notes for either size of the pattern outlines the amount needed of each square with the three colors. Complete all squares with individual square borders and choose overall layout. Attach squares one column/row at a time with your preferred method of attaching squares. The sides all should contain the same number of stitches so it can be crocheted together with sl st or sc joins or they can be sewed together. 

 

After all the squares have been attached in the desired layout, the border can be completed depending on the amount of yarn left. The border is simple here to accommodate varying amounts of yarn and desired thicknesses. Work rounds in desired color order. 

 

Round 1 of Border: 

  • Sl st into any sp on the edge, ch 2 or 3
  • work hdc or dc in each sp around with (hdc/dc, ch 2, hdc/dc) in each corner sp
  • Sl st to beg st, do not turn

 

Round 2 of Border:

  • ch 2/3, hdc/dc in same sp, 
  • work hdc or dc in each sp around with (hdc/dc, ch 2, hdc/dc) in each corner sp
  • Sl st to beg st, do not turn

 

Repeat Round 2 until desired thickness is reached or yarn is used up. 

 

Weave in all ends. 

Pattern Declaimer

This is a paid pattern originally designed for a Yarn Bits Shop subscription box. 

You have permission to sell any item made from this pattern. However, you are not allowed to resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern or downloads in any printed or digital form (in full), or to claim the pattern as your own original design. If you want to sell or share a picture of your work from this pattern, please clearly credit the design to me: Lauren Samar of Yarn Bits Shop (with link to the website when applicable). 

Occasionally a mistake or typo falls through, please report them via email (help@yarnbitsshop.com) and the pattern will be updated accordingly.

Posted on by

BB January 2020 Tunisian Crochet ZigZag and Diamonds

Tunisian Crochet ZigZag and Diamonds

January 2020 BlanketBox

Designed by Lauren Samar for Yarn Bits Shop

Feel free to email for pattern help or questions: help@yarnbitsshop.com

This blanket is a great way to learn and practice Tunisian crocheting. The first part of the pattern will cover what Tunisian crocheting is and how to do the different aspects needed. After the overview, the color charts are provided. There are 4 possible layouts for the squares with two color options for each (8 possible squares total). With these layouts, the overall order of the squares is completely up to you! The squares are sewed together and the border around the entire blanket is simple to keep the focus of this pattern on the technique itself.

Tunisian Crochet ZigZag and Diamonds Pattern

Supplies: 

6 skeins of Premier Anti Pilling Everyday Worsted Yarn in Mist, 3 skeins in Orchid, 3 skeins in Bright Violet; Size H 14 Inch Afghan Hook, Needle, Blocking mat if desired

Skill Level: Easy/Intermediate

Dimensions: 

Square dimensions: ~18” x 18”

About Tunisian Crochet: 

Tunisian crochet work is never turned and each row is worked in two parts: the forward and return pass. The forward pass picks up the stitches/loops onto the hook (hence why the hooks need to be longer) and the return pass works them off the hook. With this technique, the back of the fabric will look different than the front and curling is common (but can be tamed with blocking or a border).

The foundation row is started the same way for any tunisian stitch.

Foundation Row: 

  1. ch a number of stitches (beg ch)
  2. Forward pass: roll chain forward slightly so the back bumps can be seen. Insert hook in 2nd ch back bump, yarn over,  and pull through (2 loops on hook). Repeat for each ch across. 
  3. Return pass: Yarn over, pull  through first loop on hook (basically a ch 1, known as return ch), yarn over and pull through two loops on hook, repeat across until there is one stitch left on the hook. This stitch is now the 1st stitch of the next row.

Tunisian Simple Stitch (TSS)

After completing the foundation row, the rows are worked with the following forward and return passes for this stitch.

Forward pass: Skip first vertical bar, insert hook from right to left (if right handed, it will be left to right if you’re left handed) under the 2nd vertical bar (only one bar on hook when picked up), yarn over and pull up loop, keep loop on hook. Repeat across to last stitch. Work end stitch: insert hook under last bar and the bar that lies directly behind it, yarn over and pull loop.

Return pass: Yarn over, pull  through first loop on hook (return ch), yarn over and pull through two loops on hook, repeat across until there is one stitch left on the hook.

 

Color Changes With Tunisian Crochet

These blanket squares will not have any color changes on the edge- all the color changes are mid-row. 

Forward pass: work up to the stitch where the color change is required, insert hook in the next st, yarn over with the new color, work the next set of stitches in the new color. Repeat for all the color changes in the row. 

Return pass: work as normal until there is one loop of the contrast color left on the hook, yarn over the new color, and continue with the return pass pattern. 

Note: the colors are not carried down the row, you will be leaving the strands where they last were used to be used again in the following passes or rows. Only fasten off if that strand will not be picked up again in the next row. This means that there are many strands of yarn attached to the square, it is recommended to make smaller balls of yarn as needed so it is easier to transport. 

 

Reading the Color Chart

Each chart provided is for one square. Each square is a stitch with the first stitch already on your hook when starting the row. The stitches in the row are numbered from right to left since (if you are right handed), the stitches will be picked up in that order. If you are a left handed crocheter, you will read the chart from left to right. The rows are numbered bottom to top so working up with your square should match the progression easily. 

The first row of the chart is the foundation row. After that, all stitches are completed as explained in the TSS section. 

See next page for color specifications for each chart. 

 

Color Specifications for Charts

To make it easier to read and to ensure the square borders of the charts are clear, the charts do not display all the colors. Below are the color specifications for each chart. 

Thin and Thick ZigZag

The ZigZag squares are designed to be two colors only- Mist and one of the other colors.  

Version 1: 

Grey squares = Mist yarn (8 strands for Thin, 6 for Thick)

White squares = Bright Violet (7 strands for Thin, 5 for Thick)

Version 2:

Grey squares = Mist yarn (8 strands for Thin, 6 for Thick)

White squares = Orchid (7 strands for Thin, 5 for Thick)

 

Expanding and Centralized Diamonds

Version 1: 

Grey Squares = Mist (Up to 7 strands for Expanding, Up to 8 strands for Centralized)

Pink Squares = Bright Violet  (Up to 4 strands for Expanding, Up to 4 strands for Centralized)

White Squares = Orchid (Up to 3 strands for Expanding, Up to 3 strands for Centralized)

 

Version 2:

Grey Squares = Mist (Up to 7 strands for Expanding, Up to 8 strands for Centralized)

Pink Squares = Orchid (Up to 4 strands for Expanding, Up to 4 strands for Centralized)

White Squares = Bright Violet (Up to 3 strands for Expanding, Up to 3 strands for Centralized)

 

Attaching and Border

After squares are completed, use Mist and the mattress stitch to sew the squares together in the layout desired. Weave in all ends. 

After the squares are attached, if a border is desired (and there’s enough yarn), sc or hdc in each row/stitch around with (sc 2, ch 2, sc 2) or (hdc 2, ch 2, hdc 2) at the corners. Complete as many rows as desired. 

Pattern Declaimer

This is a paid pattern originally designed for a Yarn Bits Shop subscription box. 

You have permission to sell any item made from this pattern. However, you are not allowed to resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern or downloads in any printed or digital form (in full), or to claim the pattern as your own original design. If you want to sell or share a picture of your work from this pattern, please clearly credit the design to me: Lauren Samar of Yarn Bits Shop (with link to the website when applicable). 

Occasionally a mistake or typo falls through, please report them via email (help@yarnbitsshop.com) and the pattern will be updated accordingly.

Posted on by

BB April 2020 Everchanging Broomstick Lace Blanket

Everchanging Broomstick Lace Blanket

April 2020 BlanketBox

Designed by Lauren Samar for Yarn Bits Shop

Feel free to email for pattern help or questions: help@yarnbitsshop.com

This blanket is a great way to learn and practice Broomstick Lace crocheting. The first part of the pattern will cover what Broomstick Lace crocheting is and how to do the different aspects 

needed. After the overview, the three square patterns are provided. One square utilizes only the straight knitting needle to create the loops and is worked from bottom to top. This square is the best place to start with learning and practicing the technique. The other two squares utilizes both the straight (towards the center only) and circular knitting needles to work from inside out. After all squares are made, they are connected with either black yarn if seam visibility is not desired or the Tweed yarn if the seam visibility is desired.

Lastly, with the remaining Mandala Tweed Stripes yarn, a border is made. If there is enough yarn, a round of broomstick lace can be crocheted. With 5 skeins of the Mandala Tweed Stripes yarn, 24 squares can be made (each skein yields 5-6 squares). Depending on the number of each square design made, the amount of yarn left will determine the border thickness. 

Everchanging Broomstick Lace Blanket

Supplies: 

5 skeins of Lion Brand Mandala Tweed Stripes in Wishing Well, 3 skeins of Lion Brand Basic Stitch Premium in Black, size G crochet hook, a pair of 19mm/size 35 straight knitting needles, and a circular needle set in 19mm/size 35, sewing needle for sewing squares together or weaving in ends

Skill Level: Intermediate

Dimensions: 

Square dimensions: ~10.5 x10.5 inches

4×6 squares blanket dimensions (without border): ~42 x 63 inches

Gauge: 

12 sts and rows 3-7 of the Bottom to Top Square Pattern: 

slightly under 3 inches wide and 2.5 inches tall. 

 

About Broomstick Lace Crochet: 

Broomstick Lace is worked in two parts: the loop pass and the return pass. The loop pass pulls loop up onto the knitting needle, creating the height of the clusters. The return pass takes the loops off the needle and crochets stitches into the clusters of loops. Broomstick lace can be created with 1 or more loops- this pattern uses 2-4 loops for each cluster in the return pass and the number of loops will be noted in the row/rounds. The return pass generally crochets the same amount of stitches as loops in clusters (2 stitches for 2 loop clusters, 4 stitches for 4 loop clusters, and so on.) However, when working in the round, more stitches may be crocheted into the loops to maintain the flatness of the pattern. So many variations can be created with Broomstick Lace- the knitting needle size can be adjusted to create tighter or looser clusters (various heights) along with adding in different rows of stitches between the Broomstick Lace rows. This pattern features several variations with the three square patterns as well as adding in a broomstick lace round in the border.  

Color Changes Notes

Each skein of Mandala Tweed Stripes is slightly different. The way the color changes can be managed from one skein to the next is (only for the center to out squares) to crochet full rounds with the yarn ends then find a color set in other skeins that looks nice with that last round and continue with the square from there. For example, with the yarn ends from making 5 of the Bottom to Top Square patterns, crochet the remaining yarn from that skein following either the Circle-to-Square pattern or the Broomstick Lace Granny Square pattern until the yarn runs out- stopping at the end of a round (not the middle of a round). After that, use another skein of yarn that is similar to the center colors. 

Number of Squares Needed

24 total squares are needed to make the blanket- Any combination of numbers of the three squares patterns can be used. Each skein yields 5-6 squares so 4 full skeins and a bit more will be needed to make 24. The remaining Mandala Tweed Stripes yarn is for the attaching squares and the border. The orientation of the center-out squares do not make a difference but the Bottom to Top one does so that could be a “4th” design. 

 

Bottom to Top Square Pattern

With Mandala Tweed Stripe yarn, ch 42. 

Row 1: hdc in 3rd sp from hook, hdc in each sp across, turn. [40 sts]

Row 2: ch 2, hdc in each sp across, turn. [40 sts]

Row 3: ch 2, hdc in each sp across, do not turn. [40 sts]

Row 4, part 1: pull loop onto straight knitting needle (counts as first loop), sk first sp, insert hook into next sp and pull up a loop then place it onto the needle, repeat for each sp across [40 loops on hook]

Row 4, part 2: slip 4 loops off the needle and insert hook through all 4, yarn over and pull through all loops, ch 2 (does not count as beg hdc), 4 hdc in same sp, *yarn over, slip 4 loops off the needle and insert hook through all 4, yarn over and pull through all loops (first hdc), complete 3 more hdc in same sp**, repeat from * to ** across until all loops are off the needle. Turn. [10 clusters of 4 hdc or  40 sts]

Row 5: ch 2, hdc in each sp across, do not turn [40 sts]

Row 6-19: Repeat Row 4-5 (8 total broomstick lace rows for square done)

Row 20: ch 2, hdc in each sp across, fasten off [40 sts]

Border Round 1: With black yarn, sl st into corner sp of row 20 (last crocheted st of row 20), ch 1 and sc in each sp across, ch 2 (for corner), work down side of square- spreading out 40 sc stitches evenly [Suggestion: 5 sc in spaces before the first loop cluster from the top, one sc in loop cluster, then repeat (3 sc between clusters, 1 sc in loop cluster) to after last loop cluster: 6 sc after last loop cluster to bottom of square], ch 2 for 2nd corner, sc in each sp across bottom of square, ch 2 for 3rd corner, work up side of square [Same as suggestion but 6 sc before reaching first loop cluster and 5 between last loop cluster and top of square], ch 2, sl st to beg sc, turn. [40 sc per side/160 sc around, 4 ch-2 sp at corners]

Border Round 2: ch 2, hdc in each sp around and [1 hdc, ch 2, 1 hdc] in each corner sp, sl st to beg hdc, turn. [42 hdc per side/168 hdc around, 4 ch-2 sp at corners]

Border Round 3: ch 2, hdc in each sp around and [1 hdc, ch 2, 1 hdc] in each corner sp, sl st to beg hdc. Fasten off. [44 hdc per side/176 hdc around, 4 ch-2 sp at corners]

Weave in all ends. 

Circle-To-Square Pattern 

Note: dtr = double triple stitch: Yo hook 3 times, insert crochet hook in st, yo, draw lp through, [yo, draw through 2 lps on hook] 4 times

Note 2: If there is warping, feel free to turn (change crocheting directions) on the non-broomstick lace rounds. See image- the rounds were worked in one direction until the border rounds.  

With Mandala Tweed Stripe yarn, ch 4 and sl st to first ch to make ring.

Round 1: ch 3 (does not count as beg dc here and on), 12 dc in ring, sl st to 1st dc [12 dc]

Round 2: ch 3, 2 dc in same sp, 2 dc in all sp around, sl st to 1st dc [24 dc]

Round 3, part 1: pull loop on hook to needle (will need to use 3 needles for this round), pull one loop onto needle for each sp for 7 more spaces (8 loops on first needle), pick up next needle and continue placing loops on needle (8 loops on 2nd needle), pick up next needle and continue for 8 more loops (8 loops on 3rd needle, back at start of round). [24 loops spread out over 3 needles]

Round 3, part 2: slip 2 loops off the needle and insert hook through all 2, yarn over and pull through all loops, ch 3 (does not count as beg hdc), 4 dc in same sp, *yarn over, slip 2 loops off the needle and insert hook through all 2, yarn over and pull through all loops minus two loops, yarn over and pull through last two loops (first dc), complete 3 more dc in same sp**, repeat from * to ** around until all loops are off the needle, sl st to first dc of round. [12 clusters of 4 dc or 48 dc]

Round 4: ch 3, dc in same sp, dc in next 2, 2 dc in next, *dc in next 3 sp, 2 dc in next**, repeat from * to ** around, sl st to first dc. [60 dc]

Round 5, part 1: Using the circular needles, pick up a loop from each sp around and place it onto needle, sliding loops down needle onto the cord part as more loops are picked up. [60 loops on needle]

Round 5, part 2: (note: broke up round to make it easier to follow/read)

  1. slip 3 loops off needle and insert hook through all 3, yarn over and pull through all loops, ch 3, 4 dc in same sp, 
  2. [*yarn over, slip 3 loops off the needle and insert hook through all 3, yarn over and pull through all loops minus two loops, yarn over and pull through last two loops (first dc), complete 3 more dc in same sp**, 
  3. repeat from * to ** two more times {4 clusters of 4 dc done},  
  4. repeat from * to ** then add one more dc in same sp (5 dc in cluster) {4 clusters of 4 dc followed by 1 cluster of 5dc}], 
  5. repeat [ ] {steps 2-4} around until all loops are off the needle, 
  6. sl st to first dc of round. [20 clusters of 4 dc with every 5th cluster having an extra dc or 84 dc]

Round 6: ch 1, sl st in same sp, sl st in each of next 5 sp, *sc in next 2 sp, hdc in next 2 sp, dc in next 2 sp, tr in next sp, (dtr, ch 2, dtr) in next sp, tr in next, dc in next 2 sp, hdc in next 2 sp, sc in next 2 sp, sl st in next 6 sp**, repeat from * to ** around, sl st to first sl st. [22 sts/side or 84 sts, 4 ch-2 sp at corners]

Round 7: ch 3, dc in same sp, dc in each sp around with (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in each corner sp, sl st to first dc [26 sts/side or 104 sts, 4 ch-2 sp at corners]

Round 8: Repeat round 7 [30 sts/side or 120 sts, 4 ch-2 sp at corners]

Round 9: Repeat round 7, fasten off. [34 sts/side or 136 sts, 4 ch-2 sp at corners]

Border Round 1: With black yarn, sl st into any sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each sp around with (1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc) in each corner sp, sl st to first sc, turn [36 sts/side or 144 sts, 4 ch-2 sp at corners]

Border Round 2: ch 2, hdc in same sp, hdc in each sp around with (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in each corner sp, sl st to first hdc, turn [40 sts/side or 160 sts, 4 ch-2 sp at corners]

Border Round 3: Repeat border round 2, fasten off. [44 sts/side or 176 sts, 4 ch-2 sp at corners]

Weave in ends. 

Broomstick Lace Granny Square

Note: Broomstick corners pattern will be the same for all broomstick lace rounds: 

  • Loop Pass: 1 loop before corner, 1 loop in ch-2 sp, and 1 loop after corner
  • Return Pass: (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in 3 loop cluster from loop pass

Note 2: If there is warping, feel free to turn (change crocheting directions) on the non-broomstick lace rounds. See image- the rounds were worked in one direction until the border rounds.  

With Mandala Tweed Stripe yarn, ch 4 and sl st to first ch to make ring.

Round 1: ch 3 (does not count as beg dc here and on), *4 dc in ring, ch 2**, repeat from * to ** 3 more times, sl st to 1st dc [16 dc, 4 ch-2 sp]

Round 2, part 1: {note: ch-2 sp counts as 1 sp here, only pull one loop for each corner} pull loop on hook to needle (will need to use 3 needles for this round), pull one loop onto needle for each sp for 7 more spaces (8 loops on first needle, 2 corners and 1 side), pick up next needle and continue placing loops on needle (7 loops on 2nd needle, 2 sides and 1 corner), pick up next needle and continue for 5 more loops (5 loops on 3rd needle, 1 side and 1 corner- back at start of round). [20 loops spread out over 3 needles]

Round 2, part 2: 

  1. *slip 2 loops off needle and insert hook through all 2, yarn over and pull through all loops, ch 3, 3 dc in same sp {side done}, 
  2. yarn over, slip 3 loops off the needle and insert hook through all 3, yarn over and pull through all loops minus two loops, yarn over and pull through last two loops (first dc), complete 2 more dc in same sp, ch 2, 3 more dc in same sp {corner done}**, 
  3. repeat from * to ** (step 1-2) 3 more times around until all loops are off the needles,
  4.  sl st to first dc of round. [4 3-dc clusters for sides and 4 6-dc with ch-2 in middle for corners- or 9 dc/side or 36 dc total with 4 ch-2 sp] 

Round 3: ch 3, dc in same sp, dc in each sp around with (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in each corner sp, sl st to first dc. [13 dc/side or 52 dc with 4 ch-2 sp]

Round 4, part 1: turn, sl st in 1 sp (towards closest corner), using circular needles- pull loop on hook to needle, pull one loop onto needle for each sp for 4 more spaces before corner, pull loop through corner sp (should have 6 loops on hook), continue pulling loops onto hook around (1 loop per space, 1 loop per corner) to last corner sp, pick up last corner loop then pull 1 loop for 8 more spaces back to the beg of round [56 loops on needle]

Round 4, part 2: 

  1. slip 3 loops off needle and insert hook through all 3, yarn over and pull through all loops, ch 3, 4 dc in same sp {center of 1 side done}, 
  2. *yarn over, slip 4 loops off the needle and insert hook through all 4, yarn over and pull through all loops minus two loops, yarn over and pull through last two loops (first dc), complete 3 more dc in same sp {left of center done}, 
  3. yarn over, slip 3 loops off the needle and insert hook through all 3, yarn over and pull through all loops minus two loops, yarn over and pull through last two loops (first dc), complete 2 more dc in same sp, ch 2, 3 more dc in same sp {corner done},
  4. yarn over, slip 4 loops off the needle and insert hook through all 4, yarn over and pull through all loops minus two loops, yarn over and pull through last two loops (first dc), complete 3 more dc in same sp {right of center done}, 
  5. yarn over, slip 3 loops off the needle and insert hook through all 3, yarn over and pull through all loops minus two loops, yarn over and pull through last two loops (first dc), complete 3 more dc in same sp {center of side done}**
  6. repeat from * to ** (step 2-5) 2 more times then * to ** except for last center cluster (step 2-4) one more time around until all loops are off the needles, 
  7. sl st to first dc of round. [3 4-dc clusters for sides and 4 6-dc with ch-2 in middle for corners- or 18 dc/side or 72 dc total with 4 ch-2 sp] 

Round 5: ch 3, dc in same sp, dc in each sp around with (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in each corner sp, sl st to first dc. [22 dc/side or 88 dc with 4 ch-2 sp]

Round 6, part 1: turn, sl st in 1 sp (towards closest corner), using circular needles- pull loop on hook to needle, pull one loop onto needle for each sp for 8 more spaces before corner, pull loop through corner sp (should have 10 loops on hook), continue pulling loops onto hook around (1 loop per space, 1 loop per corner) to last corner sp, pick up last corner loop then pull 1 loop for 13 more spaces back to the beg of round [92 loops on needle]

Round 6, part 2:

  1. slip 4 loops off needle and insert hook through all 4, yarn over and pull through all loops, ch 3, 4 dc in same sp,
  2.  [yarn over, slip 4 loops off the needle and insert hook through all 4, yarn over and pull through all loops minus two loops, yarn over and pull through last two loops (first dc), complete 3 more dc in same sp] 2 times to corner
  3. *yarn over, slip 3 loops off the needle and insert hook through all 3, yarn over and pull through all loops minus two loops, yarn over and pull through last two loops (first dc), complete 2 more dc in same sp, ch 2, 3 more dc in same sp {corner done}
  4. [yarn over, slip 4 loops off the needle and insert hook through all 4, yarn over and pull through all loops minus two loops, yarn over and pull through last two loops (first dc), complete 3 more dc in same sp] 5 times to corner**, 
  5. repeat from * to ** (step 3-4) 3 times, 
  6.  [yarn over, slip 4 loops off the needle and insert hook through all 4, yarn over and pull through all loops minus two loops, yarn over and pull through last two loops (first dc), complete 3 more dc in same sp] 2 times to finish last side loops, 
  7. sl st to first dc of round [5 4-dc clusters for sides and 4 6-dc with ch-2 in middle for corners- or 26 dc/side or 104 dc total with 4 ch-2 sp] 

Round 7: ch 3, dc in same sp, dc in each sp around with (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in each corner sp, sl st to first dc. [30 dc/side or 120 dc with 4 ch-2 sp]

Round 8: ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each sp around with (1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc) in each corner sp, sl st to first sc, fasten off.  [32 dc/side or 128 dc with 4 ch-2 sp]

Border Round 1: With black yarn, sl st into any sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each sp around with (2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc) in each corner sp, sl st to first sc, turn [36 sts/side or 144 sts, 4 ch-2 sp at corners]

Border Round 2: ch 2, hdc in same sp, hdc in each sp around with (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in each corner sp, sl st to first hdc, turn [40 sts/side or 160 sts, 4 ch-2 sp at corners]

Border Round 3: Repeat border round 2, fasten off. [44 sts/side or 176 sts, 4 ch-2 sp at corners]

Weave in ends. 

Attaching and Border

After squares are completed, there are several options for attaching them together. If you have black yarn left, you can sew the squares together with black for an invisible seam. If you want a visible seam utilizing Mandala Tweed Stripes, then the squares can be attached with either the flat slip stitch method, the flat zipper method, or even sc for some texture on the seams. 

After all the squares are attached (4 by 6) with the preferred method, the following is a border pattern that can incorporate broomstick lace.

With Mandala Tweed Stripe yarn, sl st to any sp close to a corner. 

Round 1: ch 2, hdc in same sp, hdc in each sp around with (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in each corner sp and 2 hdc in square corner sp at seams, sl st to first hdc. [186 sts on short sides and 278 sts on long sides with 4 ch-2 corner sp]

Round 2, part 1: sl st to 1 or 5 sp away from the corner as needed, pull loop onto circular needles, pull up loop from each sp around (1 in each corner). [3 loops for each corner, multiple of 4 between corner loops for each side- 184 loops for short sides and 276 loops for long sides]. 

Round 2, part 2: following the same technique as the square patterns, crochet 4 hdc in each set of 4 loops around with (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in each corner’s cluster of 3 loops. [46 clusters of 4 on short sides and 69 clusters of 4 on long sides with corner clusters of 6 dc and ch-2 sp]

If have enough yarn: 

Round 3: ch 2, hdc in each sp around and (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in each corner. Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Pattern Declaimer

This is a paid pattern originally designed for a Yarn Bits Shop subscription box. 

You have permission to sell any item made from this pattern. However, you are not allowed to resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern or downloads in any printed or digital form (in full), or to claim the pattern as your own original design. If you want to sell or share a picture of your work from this pattern, please clearly credit the design to me: Lauren Samar of Yarn Bits Shop (with link to the website when applicable). 

Occasionally a mistake or typo falls through, please report them via email (help@yarnbitsshop.com) and the pattern will be updated accordingly.

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March 2021 – CrochetMastery Bavarian Crochet Placemats/Tablerunner

Bavarian Crochet Placemats/Tablerunner

March 2021 CrochetMastery

Designed by Lauren Samar for Yarn Bits Shop

Feel free to email for pattern help or questions: help@yarnbitsshop.com

March 2021- CrochetMastery

Bavarian Crochet Placemats/Tablerunner

Skill Level: Intermediate to Intermediate-Advanced

Hook Size: I/5.5mm

Bavarian Crochet is a technique composed of two round repeats- the clusters round and the shell round. The resulting texture and fabric looks like diamonds outlined and it’s a great technique for color work. While it is most commonly worked in rounds, it can be adjusted for rows. The patterns below are adjustable to the size rectangles you would like AND can be used for other patterns like scarves, cowl, blankets, and more. There are also details about setting up for a square instead of a rectangle at the end for your reference for other patterns (blankets, motifs, pillows, flat doily, etc). Also at the end, there is a list of ideas for utilizing this technique.

In this box, there is: 

  • 3 skeins of Red Heart Hygge Charm in three colors- $30
  • Size I/5.5mm Crochet Hook- $4
  • Handmade by Lauren Stitch Markers – $6 
  • Darning Needle (in envelope!) 
  • Exclusive Pattern and Support- $10
  • Plus all the subscribers perks!

Stitches/Abbreviation Guide:

Yarn Over (yo); Space (sp); Stitch (st); Skip (sk); Loop (lp)

Chain (ch): with one lp on hook, yo and pull through the lp on hook

Slip Stitch (sl st): insert hook into target sp, yo and pull through sp AND lp on hook

Single Crochet (sc): insert hook in target sp, yo and pull through sp, yo and pull through both loops on hook

Triple Crochet (tr): yo twice, insert hook in target sp, yo and pull through st, [yo and pull through 2 loops] three times. 

Small Shell (sm shell): (4 tr, ch 1, 4 tr) in target space

Large Shell (lg shell): (4 tr, {ch 1, 4 tr} twice) in target space

4-triple cluster (4-tr cl): *yo twice, insert hook in target sp, yo and pull through st, [yo and pull through 2 loops] two times (leaving last loop of st on hook)**, repeat from * to ** 3 more times, yo and pull through all loops on hook. 

4-back post triple decrease (4-bptr dec): *yo twice, insert hook from front to back of post to work around then insert hook from front to back on other side of post (picking up post as space), yo and pull through sp, [yo and pull through 2 loops] two times (leaving last loop of st on hook)**, repeat from * to ** for the next three posts, yo and pull through all loops on hook. 

8-back post triple decrease (8-bptr dec): *yo twice, insert hook from front to back of post to work around then insert hook from front to back on other side of post (picking up post as space), yo and pull through sp, [yo and pull through 2 loops] two times (leaving last loop of st on hook)**, repeat from * to ** for the next seven posts, yo and pull through all loops on hook. 

Pattern Notes

The above stitches are ALL the stitches needed for the patterns. Once you are used to the shells and clusters, it is rhythmic. What makes it easier to remember what goes where is (when working in rounds): 

  • 8-bptr dec are used on edges only
    • These are the bottom half of the diamond between corners
    • This FILLS the space between shells
  • sm shells are used on edges only. 
    • These are the top half of the diamond between corners.
    • This ADDS space to width/length.
  • 4-bptr dec are used at corners only 
    • These are ¼ of the NEW diamonds at corners, adding to the total number of diamonds per side. 
  • lg shells are used at corners only
    • These are ¾ of NEW diamonds at corners. 

 

For any size rectangular Bavarian Crochet patterns, the beginning ch is a multiple of 10 + 2. 

 

For square patterns, the beginning is different but once you get past the set-up, the pattern for squares and rectangles are the same.

 

For these patterns, the color order is repeated (color 1, 2, 3, 1, 2, 3, etc) until desired size is reached. BUT with Bavarian crochet, there’s many opportunities to explore color changes.  

Yarn Amounts Notes

With three skeins of Red Heart Hygge Charm, you can make 4 placemats safely with the same color order. You MAY be able to make up to 6 if you rotate the color you start with so the amounts are used up evenly across the rounds and placemats. For example the color order is always the same (1 then 2 then 3 then 1, etc) but placemats 1 and 2 start with color 1, placemats 3 and 4 start with color 2, and placemats 5 and 6 start with color 3. 

If a longer table runner is desired, roughly 60-70 inches would use up all the yarn to create a 14 inch wide runner. 

Small Rectangle // Placemats 

With color 1, ch 32 (3 multiples of 10 + 2). 

 

Foundation Round: 

  • sc in 2nd ch from hook, 
  • *sk next 4 chs, sm shell in next ch, sk next 4 chs, sc in next ch**, 
  • repeat from * to ** to last ch, 
  • working on the OPPOSITE side of the ch (turn your work to bottom of ch)- sk first 5 ch
  • *sm shell in next ch (same sp as other side’s shell), sk next 4 chs, sc in next ch, 
  • repeat from * until all same amount of shells are completed on both sides
  • sk last 5 ch,
  • sl st to beg sc
  • fasten off color 1

Stitches Count: 6 sm shells, 6 sc

Round 1: 

  • With the next color, sl st to first sc of previous 
  • ch 5, 4-bptr dec, ch 5, sc in next ch-1 sp (top of shell)
    • Corner cluster completed 
  • (ch 5, 8-bptr dec, ch 5, sc in next ch-1 sp) two times 
    • Edge clusters completed
    • To make this more generic for length: the number of shells per side from foundation round minus 1 repeat is completed here. SO if you are doing 10 shells on the foundation round, 9 edge clusters are completed here. 
  • (ch 5, 4 bptr dec, ch 5, sc in next ch-1 sp) two times 
    • Corner 2 and 3 clusters completed
  • (ch 5, 8-bptr dec, ch 5, sc in next ch-1 sp) two times 
    • Opposite edge clusters completed
  • ch 5, 4-bptr dec, ch 5, sl st to beg sc
    • Last corner cluster completed
  • Do not fasten off

Stitches Count: 8 sc, 4 8-bptr dec, 4 4-bptr dec

Round 2: 

  • ch 1, sc in first sc
  • lg shell in top of 4-bptr dec (the corner), sc in next sc,
    • Corner 1 completed
  • (sm shell in top of 8-bptr dec sp, sc in next sc) twice 
    • Or repeat until sc before next corner 
    • Edge shells completed
  • (lg shell in top of 4-bptr dec, sc in next sc) twice
    • Corners 2 and 3 completed
  • (sm shell in top of 8-bptr dec sp, sc in next sc) twice 
    • Or repeat until sc before next corner 
    • Opposite edge shells completed
  • lg shell in top of 4-bptr dec (the corner), sl st to beg sc
    • Corner 4 completed
  • Fasten off.

Stitches Count: 8 sc, 4 lg shells, 4 sm shells

 

Round 3: 

  • With next color, sl st to ch 1 sp of first corner shell (first ch-1 of lg shell), sc in same sp,
  • ch 5, 4-bptr dec, ch 5, sc in next ch 1 sp (2nd ch-1 sp of lg shell)
    • Corner 1 cluster completed
  • (ch 5, 8-bptr dec, ch 5, sc in next ch-1 sp) three times 
    • Or until you reach first ch-1 sp of next lg shell
    • Long edge 1 clusters completed
  • ch 5, 4-bptr dec, ch 5, sc in next ch-1 sp (2nd ch-1 sp of lg shell)
    • Corner 2 cluster completed
  • ch 5, 8-bptr dec, ch 5, sc in next ch-1 sp 
    • Short edge 1 clusters completed
  • ch 5, 4-bptr dec, ch 5, sc in next ch-1 sp (2nd ch-1 sp of lg shell)
    • Corner 3 clusters completed
  • (ch 5, 8-bptr dec, ch 5, sc in next ch-1 sp) three times 
    • Or until you reach first ch-1 sp of next lg shell
    • Long edge 2 clusters completed
  • ch 5, 4-bptr dec, ch 5, sc in next ch-1 sp (2nd ch-1 sp of lg shell)
    • Corner 4 clusters completed
  • ch 5, 8-bptr dec, ch 5, sl st to beg sc 
    • Short edge 2 clusters completed

Stitches Count: 12 sc, 8 8-bptr dec, 4 4-bptr dec

 

Round 4: 

  • ch 1, sc in first sc
  • lg shell in top of 4-bptr dec (the corner), sc in next sc,
    • Corner 1 completed
  • (sm shell in top of 8-bptr dec sp, sc in next sc) three times 
    • Or repeat until sc before next corner 
    • Long edge 1 shells completed
  • lg shell in top of 4-bptr dec, sc in next sc
    • Corner 2 completed
  • sm shell in top of 8-bptr dec sp, sc in next sc
    • Short edge 1 shells completed
  • lg shell in top of 4-bptr dec, sc in next sc
    • Corner 3 completed
  • (sm shell in top of 8-bptr dec sp, sc in next sc) three times
    • Or repeat until sc before next corner 
    • Long edge 2 shells completed
  • lg shell in top of 4-bptr dec, sc in next sc
    • Corner 4 completed
  • sm shell in top of 8-bptr dec sp, sl st to beg sc
    • Short edge 1 shells completed
  • Fasten off.

Stitches Count: 4 lg shells, 8 sm shells

 

Repeat Rounds 3 and 4 until desired size is reached. The pattern ends on a shell round. 

 

Each pair of rounds adds one sm shell per side. 

 

For a placemat- 10 rounds (5 pairs of rounds after foundation round) with Red Heart Hygge Charm yarn and size I hook will create a placemat with a dimension of ~17 by ~14 inches.

Long Rectangle // Table runner 

This pattern is a repeat of the small rectangle pattern but with more shells per long side to start (instead of 3 diamonds at center). 

 

With the Red Heart Hygge Charm yarn and size I hook, each multiple of 10 adds about 2 inches to the beginning length. The foundation round + 10 rounds (5 pairs of cluster and shell rounds) adds 12 inches to the length. So if you want a 50 inch long table runner, your beg chain should be a multiple of 10 + 2 that is approximately 38 inches long. This chain (based on the gauge and dimensions) will be 192 chains with 19 shells on either side of the ch for the foundation round. 

Square center 

With color 1, ch 5 and sl to first ch to create a ring.

 

Round 1: 

  • ch 1, 
  • (sc in ring, ch 5, 4-tr cl in ring, ch 5) 4 times
  • sl st to beg sc
  • fasten off color 1

Stitches Count: 8 ch-5 sp, 4 sc, 4 4-tr cl

 

Round 2: 

Note: ch-2s in this round are only used here to create height and will not be worked into in later rounds. 

  • ch 1, sc in first sc
  • ch 2, lg shell in top of next 4-tr cl sp, ch 2
  • (sc in next sc, ch 2, lg shell in top of next 4-tr cl sp, ch 2) three times
  • sl st to beg sc and fasten off

Stitches Count: 8 ch-2 sp, 4 lg shells, 4 sc

 

Round 3: 

  • With next color, sl st to ch 1 sp of first corner shell (first ch-1 of lg shell), sc in same sp,
  • *ch 5, 4-bptr dec, ch 5, sc in next ch 1 sp (2nd ch-1 sp of lg shell)
    • Corner 1 cluster completed
  • ch 5, 8-bptr dec, ch 5, sc in next ch-1 sp** 
    • Edge 1 clusters completed
  • Repeat from * to ** around, skipping last sc of repat
  •  sl st to beg sc

Stitches Count: 8 sc, 4 8-bptr dec, 4 4-bptr dec

 

Round 4: 

  • ch 1, sc in first sc
  • *lg shell in top of 4-bptr dec (the corner), sc in next sc,
    • Corner 1 completed
  • sm shell in top of 8-bptr dec sp, sc in next sc** 
    • Edge 1 completed
  • Repeat from * to ** around, skipping last sc of repat
  • sl st to beg sc
  • Fasten off.

Stitches Count: 4 lg shells, 4 sm shells

 

Repeat rounds 3 and 4 until desired size is reached. Each pair of rounds adds one sm shell per side. 

Ideas for Projects with Bavarian Crochet

 

With the above techniques, you have MANY options for projects utilizing Bavarian Crochet. Besides placemats and table runner, below is a list of ideas. 

 

Square Motifs for Blanket

Center-out blanket of either Square or Rectangular shape

Square/Rectangle Pillow Covers– end on a cluster round to get flat edges and sew together THEN use a shell round to create an edge of the cover. 

Use cotton yarn to create a hotplate mat 

Scarf– Set up with very long beg ch, complete foundation round for rectangle, then 1-3 pairs of rounds. 

Turning at ends of round to create different textures of same patterns.

Email us at help@yarnbitsshop.com with any questions!

Back of Bavarian Crochet view- it looks pretty on both sides!

Pattern Declaimer

This is a paid pattern originally designed for a Yarn Bits Shop subscription box. 

You have permission to sell any item made from this pattern. However, you are not allowed to resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern or downloads in any printed or digital form (in full), or to claim the pattern as your own original design. If you want to sell or share a picture of your work from this pattern, please clearly credit the design to me: Lauren Samar of Yarn Bits Shop (with link to the website when applicable). 

Occasionally a mistake or typo falls through, please report them via email (help@yarnbitsshop.com) and the pattern will be updated accordingly.